![]() |
|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 17
|
Hi guys,
I have just bleed my brakes I was advised to do the following. - Undo all four bleeding screws pump the pedal drain all the fluid. - refit the bleeding screws. - top up the brake fluid. - unscrew the bleeder one at a time. Loosen the screw push the pedal down hold it down tighten the screw and then release the pedal. Repeat this until you have a continues flow. I have done this but only the drivers side front wheel and rear passenger side is working the pedal is extremely spongy and the other two wheels will not bleed or pull fluid??? ![]() Your help would be greatly appreciated. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#2 | ||
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 4,513
|
Always bleed one wheel at a time unless you have professional brake bleeding equipment.
Bleed the furthermost wheel first and work towards the closest wheel last. By undoing all four wheels at once you may have caused air to enter the system. You may have also allowed air into the ABS and that will cost you money at a dealer. Go punch the person in the face who instructed you to do this. (just joking) .
__________________
2015 FGX XR8 5.0 S/C 645 RWKW ![]() Last edited by 05_ENFORCER; 06-07-2015 at 09:38 PM. Reason: typos |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#3 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 17
|
Thanks mate trust me I was contemplating it lol
What will have to be done to rectify the fault. Hoping I may be able to do this at home? |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Posts: 4,410
|
The first step where you "Undo all four bleeding screws pump the pedal drain all the fluid" introduced a lot of air into the lines. The usual way is to do one line at a time, making sure the reservoir never gets low, and keep going until that line shows fresh fluid coming through. I suck all of the old fluid out of reservoir and put fresh fluid in before starting. Gonna take a few bottles to get all that air out. Google how to bleed brake lines, plenty of good info out there.
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,252
|
dont undo the bleed screw until several 'pumps' of the pedal have been completed and then only do so when there is pressure on the pedal. Snib the nipple closed before the pressure drops and the pedal hits the floor. Repeat until there is constant flow of clean fluid with no air bubbles in it.
Start from the furtherest brake from the master cylinder rear left, then the next closest and so on. I have installed an AU falcon ABS pump that had been off the car for a while and all was OK didn't need special bleeding. JP |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#6 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 17
|
A mistake I will never make again.. It's easy to forget how much you depend on your car..
The issue is the fluid level is not dropping when trying to bleed these two wheels? But yet the other two did after time. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#7 | ||
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 4,513
|
You can do a gravity or pressure bleed for the cylinders that are not passing fluid.
Just make sure the master cylinder is always topped up when doing this method. A one man bleeder kit or bleeding nipples is the way to go if you want to do this job more often. Keep at it, it will be all good in the end. .
__________________
2015 FGX XR8 5.0 S/C 645 RWKW ![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
This user likes this post: |
![]() |
#8 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 17
|
Thanks mate! I will buy a bleeding tool and let you know how it goes. Thanks again
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#9 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
|
now you have mastered the bleeding
did you refill the system with track work /racing capable brake fluid
__________________
My car goes Brumm Brumm |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#10 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 17
|
Thanks guys the brake pedal feel better then ever I'm shocked by the difference..
I have used nulon extreme DOT 4 |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#11 | ||
Race Brakes Sydney
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: SYDNEY
Posts: 3,613
|
I know it has been said but it is every important to not let the fluid in the reservoir run dry i get many calls where people have gravity bled a car but not kept an eye on the fluid level.
__________________
MATTHEW PEARCE
RACE BRAKES SYDNEY = When you want it to stop Street to track is what we expertise in Phone 02 9609 1101 sales@racebrakessydney.com.au www.racebrakessydney.com.au |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |