|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
09-08-2016, 07:56 PM | #1 | ||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
|
It's time to do the rear end of the Sportsman. It's been parked up for the last few months after I felt the rear shift when coming on and off the cruise control. I didn't have the spare funds to get it sorted immediately so parked it up and bought an EL hack to get to work and back for $500. The EL is a good enough unit and does it's job well but after I got in the 'lane today to move it, I remembered why I bought 2 of them in the first place. I miss the quiet, I miss the super comfy LTD seats, I miss the smooth ride and most of all, I just miss the presence it oozes everywhere it goes, even just sitting in my driveway. I miss my Sportsman and want it back . So time to bite the bullet and get it back on the road.
So........Has anyone had their IRS bushes replaced lately, I'm just after some idea what the labor cost should be. I'm looking at the Super Pro kit at $585 on Ebay so just need an idea of how long it "should" take to do the job for a workshop with the right tools. Also, what do people think of the Super Pro kit, is it any good, and is there any issues or shortcomings with the Super Pro kit verses any other? Cheers Bushbasher
__________________
. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
||
This user likes this post: |
09-08-2016, 08:50 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
I have only changed the hyme joint outer lowers at work on mine, takes 10 minutes in out once you have access to it, from memory is just undoing lower bolt and tie rod.
Upper hyme joints be the same. Never taken the arms out because they look like an absolute cow to get out. Sway bar links and d mounts easily done. Tie rods easily done. The superpro kit is very good! ive seen a few superpro bushes failing lately, if your worried use rubber in the inner upper and lower control arms and the rest superpro. Workshop would more than likely qoute to remove the IRS Cradle. 10min per hyme joint x4. 5 min for d mounts 5 min for sway links 10 min for tie rods Probably 3 hour R&R removing cradle and putting it back in. Probably 2 hours R&R removing arms for bush/hyme work and reinstalling. Id say 6 hours, probably about a $1100 job at the right place.
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
||
09-08-2016, 08:58 PM | #3 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
|
I like Superpro stuff, and will use those bits when I do my IRS.
I reckon a good mechanic should knock it over in 6 hours.
__________________
. Oval Everywhere... |
||
09-08-2016, 09:00 PM | #4 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
|
Why would you say that?
Access is pretty good when on a hoist.
__________________
. Oval Everywhere... |
||
09-08-2016, 09:05 PM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
At work if any IRS cradle needed full overhaul we would remove the whole cradle, can do it on the ground heaps faster.
And if i ran in to any issues easier to rectify on the ground! (Rusted bolts, stripped nuts, cross threaded bolts, whatever the possbility. The AU IRS is very easy to remove aswell.
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
||
09-08-2016, 09:11 PM | #6 | |||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
|
Quote:
I've never removed one for any reason - I've changed diff centers, axles, half shafts, bushes. Always goes quick enough.
__________________
. Oval Everywhere... |
|||
09-08-2016, 09:16 PM | #7 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
Quote:
I think i could do it faster with the IRS out on the ground if i was doing the full overhaul though. Can you get a rattle gun on the bolts to the inner upper and lower control arm bolts? ive never tried and if you could id lean towards doing the lot in the car. From memory it looked pretty tight with the diff and shafts in.
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
|||
09-08-2016, 09:23 PM | #8 | |||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
|
Quote:
I think quite a few mechanics wouldn't have the means of supporting a cradle easily
__________________
. Oval Everywhere... |
|||
09-08-2016, 09:27 PM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
If there not too tight rattle ratchet would work good.
That makes sense, when it comes to my mind i instantly think take cradle out, used to removing diffs, k-frame's and cradles to do chassis and suspension repairs, done enough to do it pretty quickly too. When time comes to finish of the rest of mine ill definitely take the cradle out strip and repaint the lot, but thats personal preference. Probably going to run rubber in the inner arms too. (another preference of mine)
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
||
This user likes this post: |
09-08-2016, 09:36 PM | #10 | |||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
|
Quote:
I'd actually forgotten I had 2 complete spare cradles here, I only noticed the other day when I went looking for a sway bar for the coupe. I might rebuild one of them and just swap over.
__________________
. Oval Everywhere... |
|||
09-08-2016, 09:38 PM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
Handy having a spare cradle! Wouldn't mind that! Otherwise i have to tackle the lot in a day!
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
||
11-08-2016, 07:57 PM | #12 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,334
|
Where does one get the rubber inner bushes for the AU IRS? Kelpro and other bush suppliers don't list them. Do Ford still have them? I've got Nolathane in there and I'm considering going back because the ride is just a little to harsh for me.
|
||
11-08-2016, 08:06 PM | #13 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
Quote:
If not try ford!
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
|||
11-08-2016, 09:07 PM | #14 | |||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
|
Quote:
__________________
. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
|||
11-08-2016, 09:09 PM | #15 | ||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
|
6 hours is not far off of what my local grease monkey guessed at, thanks for the input guys, at least I've got a ball park figure to work with, cheers.
__________________
. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
||
11-08-2016, 10:18 PM | #16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
$1100 drive in drive out for sure mate!
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
||
13-08-2016, 10:36 AM | #17 | ||
XR6T BA 2002
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 683
|
What about the cradle to body bushes? or sub frame bushes ?
Anyone replaced them if so where to source them
__________________
XR6T 2002 BA
|
||
13-08-2016, 11:37 AM | #18 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 8
|
I've done this job before, I'd lower the cradle next time, wouldn't even think about it. Jack up body, undo all bolts etc, lower frame with jack and wheel out on the vehicle rear wheels. Then everything is easy to get to. No trying to work around this or that, no trying to start control arm bolts in difficult to reach places. Leave the rear shocks attached to body and just drop them off the lower arms.
Even if I had a hoist, I'd still drop the cradle. If you only have a day to do a FULL IRS rebuild and you've never done it before or don't have a press, forget it. In that case, I'd plan to only tackle either upper or lower arms each time and work from there. In my personal experience, the control arm bolts will be tight or corroded enough to need either a rattle gun or breaker bar, both very difficult to use in car in those bolts. |
||
13-08-2016, 04:03 PM | #19 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
|
best bet is probably taking them out carefully and having them remade in polyurethane
__________________
Current Car: 2002 AUII LTD 408ci Windsor, T6 S488, TH400, 2 Piece Shaft, Helicial LSD 3.23 IRS Daily: 1998 Mitsubishi Super VR-4 Legnum |
||
This user likes this post: |
16-08-2016, 04:32 PM | #20 | ||
Afterburner + skids =
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Skidsville
Posts: 12,136
|
Without a doubt the single worst job I have ever had the displease of doing.
Good luck. It was a four day job, working from dawn till dusk basically. Look at post 914 onwards http://fordforums.com.au/showthread....27#post5744727 I'm not saying your's will be just as hard, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was, although I also did wheel bearings, which was a right mongrel of a job.
__________________
Speed Kills. So buy an AU XR8 and live forever. Oo\===/oO |
||
This user likes this post: |