DIY 2012 Ford Focus 2.0 TDCI - Oil Change

[dougone]

Thanks very much for the info.

Let me clarify. There are different versions of the DW10. In principle, all later Ford 2.0 TDCIs are based on the DW10. That said, later versions and applications (LV, LW, Peugeot, Criteon & Volvo) all slightly modify the engine as far as:

- Turbo (type and position)
- Intercooler (if application)
- Sump plug (4 side or hex or other)
- Oil filter (spin on or cartridge)
- If cartridge, location of cartridge (loaction also dictates the tool that is required to open the housing).

In the contect of my post (i.e DIY Oil Change for a 2012 Ford Focus 2.0 TDCI), I would definitiely like to know:

- What type of oil filter?
- Exact location of oil filter?
- Tool required to open or remove oil filter?
- Do I need to remove anything to get to the oil filter (i.e intake hose)?
- Sump plug size and whether 4 side or hex?

Please provide only model specific information rather than general info.

[Ratmick]

Originally Posted by dougone

Please provide only model specific information rather than general info.

Mate I don't think you're getting anywhere with this. The guys that do the oil change threads for other cars have to do the same thing, that is start from scratch and it looks to me (and it should be apparent to you by now) that no-one on here has done it yet....or if they have maybe they just aren't telling you.

May I respectively suggest if you want specific information on your car you may need to get under it with a pair of vernier callipers, get your hands dirty and actually do it yourself.

If you don't want to open it up without knowing what filter is in there give the Ford dealer your VIN and they can look it up. At the same time buy a new sump plug. They'd only cost a few bucks then not only will you have a spare you'll know what the hex key/socket size is.

The cover for the oil filter will be harder. All I can suggest is grab yourself a 27mm socket and an offset and straight handle plus an extension and maybe a 27mm ring/open ender (or even a shifter) and see if you can:

1. Reach the top of the cover with your tools.
2. Work out whether you'll have enough room with your tools to be able to both loosen and tighten the cap.
3. If you can't reach it you may need to find an alternative, worst case scenario buy the Ford tool.

The torque wrench, while a nice-to-have, isn't essential - as long as it doesn't leak it'll be fine. If you can't fit a straight handle and socket on the cap you won't be able to deploy one in there anyway and most are bulkier than a straight handle 1/2" drive ratchet.

Mick

[stefcio007]

I'm in the same boat, plan on buying the 27mm socket and having a go.
I have a mini ratchet which should be small enough to give me some leverage.
Confirmed with the dealer using my VIN that the filter is a cartridge type and bought the filter.
Now just need some oil, it only just got serviced by the previous owner so no rush. Would be nice to maybe find one at the wreckers and have a practice.

I hope they're not on too tight.
My one concern is the oil coming out of the filter while it's being removed and everything becoming messy as...might leave it to drain for a while.
With cars with the filter on the underside it didn't really matter if that happened.

Since no-one has done a video for this because our car is a bit of a unicorn I'll make sure to do one.

[DBT]

Hi, sorry to dig up old threads, but im new here. Starting by sharing unsolicited info before asking for help with my own Focus issues.

No idea how your engine differs to the earlier LT model, but if its the same engine then:

8mm hex for sump plug
27mm socket for oil filter (cartridge type)
Oil filter housing is below and inboard of the fuel filter
Will need a 200mm extension for socket wrench
Removing engine cover may assist (mine's gone, so can't remember)
Replacement cartridge: R2663P (includes o-ring)
Usual safety gear for jacking, etc.

1. Drain sump (5 - 5.5L)
2. Leave catch pan in place
3. Loosen filter housing but DO NOT OPEN
4. When loose enough, a vent in the thread allows air into the housing, oil will exit the filter internally to the sump, rather than externally onto the altenator and/or A/C compressor.
5. Did I mention, leave the catch pan in place (dont ask how i worked that one out). Wait for oil to drain.
6. Replace cartridge & o ring, close housing, replace sump plug, refill oil (optional: flush oil. Minimal difference, tomorrow it will be black)
7. Manual says 5.5L oil capacity. You can prob get away with 5L.

Only slightly trickier than a typical petrol engine. Actually the cartridge system might even be easier, once you get used to it.

[stefcio007]

I literally need this tool to undo my filter.


It's a DW10 engine and it's a PITA to do.