au 2 keeps cutting out

[poppys ute]

Hi guys,i will try to keep my terminology correct with my problem.ok i have a au2 v8 ute auto.the car starts fine put into drive and off you go then any where between 10 minutes to 30 min of driving the car just stopps as if you turn the ign off but when the motor dies the dash lights come on as if you are starting the car,when you go to start the car and turn the ignition to start the car the starter motor does not engage.if you let the car sit for half an hour with keys out and all locked up,hop back in again and it will start and run then do the same as above.No trouble codes come up at all- replaced the cranc angle sensor- all ign coil packs- and the auto elec replaced the body control moduel ( which is pink in colour ) and the auto elec re-programmed the car.drove the car home last night and the same thing happened again so it has taken 8 attemps to get the car home in 30 km of travel.the 2 keys and remote are suited to the car ( smart shield system )no fault light or codes at all-checked and swapped all fuses and relays through out - can hear fuel pump working - new battery- alternater works - all interiour lights work as well as rear demister.so im stuck,,,,does any one have a clue....ken

[undertow]

Can you check to see if the starter relay coil is getting power when it is not cranking. Power is provided to the starter relay coil via the ignition switch, and grounded via the ECU. If it is getting power but not being grounded I would suspect the ECU. They don't fail often but it can happen. I had mine open recently and noticed the capacitor on the board was starting to bulge - might be worth a look to see if it has leaked.

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by undertow

Can you check to see if the starter relay coil is getting power when it is not cranking. Power is provided to the starter relay coil via the ignition switch, and grounded via the ECU. If it is getting power but not being grounded I would suspect the ECU. They don't fail often but it can happen. I had mine open recently and noticed the capacitor on the board was starting to bulge - might be worth a look to see if it has leaked.

The starter relay works and I swapped it for another one just to make sure, im thinking of replacing the power control mod behind the l/h kick panel in thinking a electronic component is breaking down (like when you boil a kettle dry the thermostat opens up until it cools down then closes)

[undertow]

That's the ECU behind the kick panel, it does sound like an electronic part is breaking down when hot. If you replace the ECU it will need reprogramming again by your auto sparky (needs to be paired with the BCM) and you'll need one from an AUII/III V8 auto.

Another thought - the fuel pump is turned on/off by the ECU. When the key is turned to ignition (without starting the engine) the pump should run for 1-2 seconds then stop. If it runs continuously then the ECU has failed and gone into limp mode.

Bad fuel pumps often cut out after running for 30 minutes or so but if you can hear it working then it's probably ok.

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by undertow

That's the ECU behind the kick panel, it does sound like an electronic part is breaking down when hot. If you replace the ECU it will need reprogramming again by your auto sparky (needs to be paired with the BCM) and you'll need one from an AUII/III V8 auto.

Another thought - the fuel pump is turned on/off by the ECU. When the key is turned to ignition (without starting the engine) the pump should run for 1-2 seconds then stop. If it runs continuously then the ECU has failed and gone into limp mode.

Bad fuel pumps often cut out after running for 30 minutes or so but if you can hear it working then it's probably ok.

Thanks Undertow (good name for my ute) I was led to believe that the e.c.u and the b.e.m s
are in the same enclosure (which mine is pink plastic rectangular box ) located at the drivers left knee behind the consol so this evening I disconnected the battery and removed what I thought is the power control module behind the left hand kick panel and held on with a security bolt where the head snaps off duing it up and requiring a chisel and hamer to undo the bolt,any way did all that with the silver steel boxed computer sitting next to me.the serial number is y3ee and a very long bar code.can I test this or where can I get another one. another thought was if the ignition lock is failing to send its signal to the ignition key whilst driving (to verify using the correct key for the car....smart shield system... ) also I cant find how to remove the fuel pump on my ute ,I have a tub-not a tray as described in the How to section...thanks ken.

[undertow]

The pink box is the BEM, the metal case one is the ECU. If you want to try another ECU ebay or wreckers probably best bet, but needs to be from an AUII/III V8 auto (sedan will work fine). But it will need to be repaired with you BEM by an auto sparky or ford dealer. Or you can get a matched ECU, BEM, and key barrel/key from a wreck and swap everything over as a matched set.

The smart shield system is only checked at startup so shouldn't cause an issue while running.

I think you have to drop the tank out or cut/bend some sheet metal to get to the pump on utes. First you could get a fuel pressure gauge and check (there's a valve on the fuel rails for easy hook up).

Just to confirm, when it's playing up and you try to start it, does the starter motor turn over or does it just do nothing?

[Maka]

Gday guys, just to let you know, when my fuel pump failed you could still hear it prime before heading off. It was cutting out around any little bend & in a straight line when it got bad.

It failed at just over 200,000km iirc, though the symptoms sound a bit different to yours. If your fp is overheating it could display your symptoms imo.

If your fp is original & over 200,00k old sooner or later it will need replacing - something to consider if you get stuck diagnosing your issue, good luck!

cheers, Maka

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by undertow

The pink box is the BEM, the metal case one is the ECU. If you want to try another ECU ebay or wreckers probably best bet, but needs to be from an AUII/III V8 auto (sedan will work fine). But it will need to be repaired with you BEM by an auto sparky or ford dealer. Or you can get a matched ECU, BEM, and key barrel/key from a wreck and swap everything over as a matched set.

The smart shield system is only checked at startup so shouldn't cause an issue while running.

I think you have to drop the tank out or cut/bend some sheet metal to get to the pump on utes. First you could get a fuel pressure gauge and check (there's a valve on the fuel rails for easy hook up).

Just to confirm, when it's playing up and you try to start it, does the starter motor turn over or does it just do nothing?

when the ute dies and go to re-start,the starter motor does nothing but you can here the starter relay click each time you turn the key...ken

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by Maka

Gday guys, just to let you know, when my fuel pump failed you could still hear it prime before heading off. It was cutting out around any little bend & in a straight line when it got bad.

It failed at just over 200,000km iirc, though the symptoms sound a bit different to yours. If your fp is overheating it could display your symptoms imo.

If your fp is original & over 200,00k old sooner or later it will need replacing - something to consider if you get stuck diagnosing your issue, good luck!

cheers, Maka

Thanks Maka,the ute has done 253000 ks,whether the fuel pump is oem is un-known so replacement is on my mind as well (p***k of a job ) but today I bought home our snap-on scanner from work and plugged it in individually testing the b.e.m ( with good results ) and when I tried the engine management syster ( power control modual ) it would not communicate because I had the engine running to warm it up as per instructions then the motor did its thing so on disconnecting the batt for the night I will re-try in the morning

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by poppys ute

Thanks Maka,the ute has done 253000 ks,whether the fuel pump is oem is un-known so replacement is on my mind as well (p***k of a job ) but today I bought home our snap-on scanner from work and plugged it in individually testing the b.e.m ( with good results ) and when I tried the engine management syster ( power control modual ) it would not communicate because I had the engine running to warm it up as per instructions then the motor did its thing so on disconnecting the batt for the night I will re-try in the morning

trying to post pics of the diagnostics

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by poppys ute

trying to post pics of the diagnostics

more pics from the first lot

[11ford11]

Earlier model ford utes had a separate smartlock module later combined it in BEM unit at left firewall is ECU ...if starter relay is clicking and works correctly the starter should crank. .check starter and cables ...this won't cause it to cut out however. .check fuse links as well

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by poppys ute

more pics from the first lot

Did some more testing today with the snap-on tool,as per instructions started the engine-put my foot on the brake and off then move the steering wheel.let the tester do its thing-brings up revs then drops them off, after app 4 min the engine just died and the scanner came up with engine fault p0116 which is the ect...circuit range performance fault ,in other words the temp sensor is faulty,so I re-set fault codes and disconnected the temp sensor and started the engine-4 min later it stopped with fault code p0118-open circuit on ect,plugged the temp connector back on-had to wait half an hour before the starter would engage and started the car only for it to fault again on p0116.on the scanner I checked all live running data and the car temp was only 56deg (cant remember exactly) and also when the engine stopped the scanner could not communicate with the pcm ( electronic control unit ) until about 45 minutes rest so im thinking the main ecu is faulty...more testing

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by poppys ute

Did some more testing today with the snap-on tool,as per instructions started the engine-put my foot on the brake and off then move the steering wheel.let the tester do its thing-brings up revs then drops them off, after app 4 min the engine just died and the scanner came up with engine fault p0116 which is the ect...circuit range performance fault ,in other words the temp sensor is faulty,so I re-set fault codes and disconnected the temp sensor and started the engine-4 min later it stopped with fault code p0118-open circuit on ect,plugged the temp connector back on-had to wait half an hour before the starter would engage and started the car only for it to fault again on p0116.on the scanner I checked all live running data and the car temp was only 56deg (cant remember exactly) and also when the engine stopped the scanner could not communicate with the pcm ( electronic control unit ) until about 45 minutes rest so im thinking the main ecu is faulty...more testing

trying to upload more pics,wont let me:more study

[11ford11]

Originally Posted by poppys ute

Did some more testing today with the snap-on tool,as per instructions started the engine-put my foot on the brake and off then move the steering wheel.let the tester do its thing-brings up revs then drops them off, after app 4 min the engine just died and the scanner came up with engine fault p0116 which is the ect...circuit range performance fault ,in other words the temp sensor is faulty,so I re-set fault codes and disconnected the temp sensor and started the engine-4 min later it stopped with fault code p0118-open circuit on ect,plugged the temp connector back on-had to wait half an hour before the starter would engage and started the car only for it to fault again on p0116.on the scanner I checked all live running data and the car temp was only 56deg (cant remember exactly) and also when the engine stopped the scanner could not communicate with the pcm ( electronic control unit ) until about 45 minutes rest so im thinking the main ecu is faulty...more testing

did you warm engine before running test ?
test temp reading with scan tool key on engine off heat the sensor manually ie. heat gun
does temp increase -
check approx 5v one wire almost nil on other(earth)
did starter relay click
have you checked earths

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by 11ford11

did you warm engine before running test ?
test temp reading with scan tool key on engine off heat the sensor manually ie. heat gun
does temp increase -
check approx 5v one wire almost nil on other(earth)
did starter relay click
have you checked earths

Thanks 11ford11,i pick up my new temp sensor tomorrow and when I get home after work I will test the voltage of the terminal and when I remove the old sensor I will test it with gradual heat whilst I have my multi-meter connected to check resistance reading ( alarm tech for 30 years ) will report results...ken

[undertow]

If the ecu won't communicate with the scan tool (with key on) it is either bad or not getting power/ground properly. You might have tried already but I'd swap out the ECU relay (R3 under the bonnet), and the diode (R9). Relays can play up when they heat up.

The factory workshop manual is available on this site and might be helpful: https://fordforums.com.au/vbportal/v...articleid=1582

[poppys ute]

Originally Posted by undertow

If the ecu won't communicate with the scan tool (with key on) it is either bad or not getting power/ground properly. You might have tried already but I'd swap out the ECU relay (R3 under the bonnet), and the diode (R9). Relays can play up when they heat up.

The factory workshop manual is available on this site and might be helpful: https://fordforums.com.au/vbportal/v...articleid=1582

Thanks Undertow,sorry for the late reply (busy with work and life in general ) Before ready this I replaced the temp sensor which got rid of trouble code p116 and last night I removed the tub liner to reveal that the floor was alreary cut at fuel pump location so proceeded to change the fuel pump.upon removing the floor plate obviously some else has replaced the pump with a brand new one so to eliminate a nother possibility of a faulty pump or connection I replaced it with a second hand one resulting in no change to the engine dying, (will put the new pump back in ) will shoot in to town today and source some new relays and diodes...back soon...ken

[poppys ute]

Just an up date, on the main forum under " wanted " section, I requested a ecu to suit my ute and a forum member got straight back to me with a au 5.0 l auto ute sitting in his shed,so with a good price and funds transferred he sent it in the mail,mean time I down loaded the forscan program and drivers and sent off via ebay for the elm interface laptop lead.virtually all items arrived at the same time - swapped the ecu and re-programmed the whole car as in keys- remote-bcm- and the ecu.it all went to plan and the ute performs faultlessly so a BIG thank you to all in volved and I have learnt a lot about my own car...ken.

ps,im not going to run away like some people do, im sticking around and getting involved with this excellent forum.