AU Waterpump Replacement Guide

[TragicAUII]

I bought a pump from Supercheap yesterday, and it fitted up well.
Haven't driven the car yet, but started it up OK.
The main problem I had, apart from actually getting at the bolts where I had the car sitting, was the fact that I had to tap the bolts into the holes, as the bolt heads were too big and the pulley interfered with them.

So, I had to fit the bolts in the casting and then tap them across where the bolt heads scraped across the pulley, to get them all the way in.
I couldn't see any damage to the pulley, but isn't that still a bit weird?

And the heater pipe. Couldn't be sure of the seal, so I used some black silicone sealer and just tightened the pump into place.

Big test today, as my work is about 40km drive from home. Ha, wouldn't be the first time I had a hot radiator on the way to work, but I have faith in my mechanic talents until proven otherwise

[MercurySilver]

Glad i found this
Did a new rad the other day and noticed the water pump end where the top rad hose goes in had some white corrosion on it
I got off as much as i could trying to wedge the hands in there and hooked it all up, went out this morn and the bugger is leaking from that top hose

So stuff it, new water pump time and ill rip the whole lot out again on the weekend
While im there ill get a new belt as mine is showing some small cracks

[dstirrup]

FYI - My notes from doing this job a couple of times.

Prep
Remove the fan assembly. Easy enough, unplug fans, remove 2 bolts and wiggle out. If paranoid an accident will damage radiator fins then stick some fibre board etc against the radiator. Yes I have done that damage...

Unbolt Power steering pump. Easy again, 3 bolts accessible with a thin long 3/8 or 1/4 10mm socket through the holes in the pulley . If you have a weep on the high pressure side outlet then replace the O ring with a FRESH 8 x 2.5mm, preferably Nitrile rubber. Beware of the crap Chinese green O rings. Not nitrile and last about 5 minutes. Yeah I know, get what you pay for. Good O rings cost next to nothing from bearing suppliers and are fresh stock (usually).


Water pump bolt locations
So you don't get cranky because you were in too much of a rush like someone I know personally - Me

Top 2 bolts are short

Lower left is long where the Alternator bracket attaches - Duh, there is this 1cm spacer thing there

Bottom is intermediate length

If the heater return pipe end is pitted from corrosion like mine was then either replace it now or Clean, clean, clean the pipe end, O ring and place where they insert into the water pump with Metho so it is raw clean. Did I say clean from oil enough? Then stick in an RTV silastic so it STICKS and does not let go. Otherwise you will have to repeat in a month or 2..

Next time the water pump goes you will of course remember to have acquired a replacement good condition return pipe to replace them both eh? Don't forget to replace the heater hoses and valve whilst replacing return pipe. Also check the vacuum line is still good...

Of course I learnt all this the hard way so you don't have to which is a purpose of this forum.

[Bill M]

Don't forget this little bugger! It centralises the steel water pipe in the bore of the pump at the back.



https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-...G/121174797142

[dstirrup]

That O ring normally comes with the replacement water pump so I did not bother mentioning so thank you for the picture.

To note that this picture has a green coloured O ring which usually indicates a refrigeration nitrile rubber seal. As I understand it nitrile rubber is oil and pressure safe as air conditioners can get up to over 200psi. Given the long life seal design of air conditioning systems it seems that genuine green seals are of a very high quality material.

Oh yeah, a tip I picked up and used. Grind a flat onto the water pump bolt heads BEFORE you insert them so you can slide the bolt past the pulley. Saves you damaging the pulley and swearing a lot.

All of this stuff applies to just about every Ford inline 6 cylinder Aussie engine by the way

[Bill M]

The purpose of the picture is to highlight the metal ferrule at the end, not the O ring. It is a later mod by Ford for late AU and BA Falcons.
cheers
Bill.

[dstirrup]

Thanks Bill,

Yeah I saw that and thought it was for the older transfer pipes. I have had EA, ED, EL, AU, BA and BF but never seen that end ferrule on any of the tubes.

Now where does one get that for a BA / BF? Must look into it as the wife's BF will be getting a go over soon.

[Bill M]

No worries, check out the link under the photo in my other post. I had a seal fail after 4 months because it was not centralised and distorted the o ring with a flat spot. None of that anymore with the ferrule fitted.
cheers
Bill.