AU Power Steering Switch removal - Page 2

Crazy Dazz · 19-06-2013, 11:03 PM

Ok, finally landed a set of Crows foots.
What a PITA, but its done.

shaheenis · 10-11-2014, 08:55 PM

This was a bastard of a job but I bought a cheap switch from Bursons. Are you guys buying genuine or after market? I replaced one less than 12mths ago and apparently it is leaking again now (not my car). Wondering what I can do this time to make it last longer :(.

**aussiblue** · 16-11-2014, 01:06 PM

Make sure you turn the switch with a spanner or socket only (tightening the body of the switch by hand will often cause it to crack) and use a power steering fluid resistance polyacrylate O ring. Cheap switches often come with standard rubber O rings which are not power steering fluid resistant. Buy the genuine Ford O ring if needs be.
See http://www.manuf-rubber.com/pdf/Material%20Guide.pdf
http://www.greatlakesrubber.com/basic_o.html http://potterassoc.com/PDF/o_rings/O...on%20Guide.pdf for "O" ring advice - type by purpose including power steering fluid. Buna rubber or Nitrile supplied with many aftermarket switches won't cut it; they turn to mush over time (< 1 year). Polyacrylate 'O' rings are best. Plumbers tape or master pipe sealant won't work either buy LOCTITE HYDRAULIC SEALANT 569 and 542 seems to work.

fordfalconed · 04-12-2014, 11:40 AM

I recently changed my rack with a recon rack and it did not come with pressure switch so I used my old pressure switch and had to use a 9/16 wrench and the used a 9/16 crows foot to torque it back into place.

The ohms for my old original OEM Ford working pressure switch was 0.1- 0.2

Also bought a Ford $5 Oring each for pressure switch and both the return and high pressure lines. Peace of mind.

Now no further visible leaks on the passenger side of rack wohoo

xr8 007 · 05-12-2014, 09:31 PM

Have to do this tomorrow, as it leaks badly from the switch. I have a set of crows feet. Wish me luck.

xr8 007 · 06-12-2014, 02:50 PM

Nope , no dice. Was under and over the car for an hour. No matter what i threw at it no luck. Just gona have to bite the bullet and give it to a mechanic to do. Would love to meet the genius who thought it would be a great idea to put it where it is.

**aussiblue** · 06-12-2014, 02:53 PM

Make sure you are using the right sized crowfoot; the new switches ones are often a different size. It is much easier to get at with the right front wheel removed.

xr8 007 · 10-12-2014, 11:48 AM

Will bending the correct sized open spanner 90degrees work or will i be wasting a spanner in the process?? thanks

Maka · 10-12-2014, 06:37 PM

What i did was, find a cheap as combo spanner & cut a section out of it (where it fouls on the steering shaft iirc), worked for me no problems. Good luck!

cheers, Maka

xr8 007 · 25-09-2015, 08:56 AM

Well less than 12 months since i replaced the switch its due for another change.

Will removing the switch and bridging the wires work also blocking the thread in the process? Is this dangerous?? Has anyone else done this.

Maka · 25-09-2015, 01:04 PM

Nope, never heard of it done ever. What switch went in? I replaced my faulty one with a genuine ford switch & np since.

cheer's, Maka

xr8 007 · 25-09-2015, 01:18 PM

it was of ebay so cant remember the manufacturer. I just bought one from autobarn in a fuelmiser brand.

I cant believe its crapped itself only after 9 months. If this one lets go again i will try plumb it back and bridge the wires.

Maka · 25-09-2015, 01:56 PM

Hopefully the new switch will be glitch free for many years, good luck with it!

cheer's, Maka

Crazy Dazz · 26-09-2015, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8 007

it was of ebay so cant remember the manufacturer. I just bought one from autobarn in a fuelmiser brand.

I cant believe its crapped itself only after 9 months. If this one lets go again i will try plumb it back and bridge the wires.

Yeah, if you bought the cheap green one off eBay they are rubbish, and usually fail inside a year.
Also, the O-rings supplied are not resistant to P/S fluid.

I'm not sure about the fuelmiser brand.

And yes, others have just plugged the hole. Not sure you even need to bother bridging the wires.

xr8 007 · 26-09-2015, 11:29 AM

ok i did it. Cant believe it but i did it. Pics to follow. Basically i cut a 15mm spanner 1/3 of the way up. Removed the two pressure hoses and took my time unscrewing the switch.

I tried to drive it without the wires being plugged up and it disabled my power steering. Maybe i do need to bridge it. Something i will explore when (not if),,but when this one lets go again. As i had to drive a short distance on zero p/steering fluid i thing the pump is making all sorts of nosies.

Had a look on ebay and there are afew reco ones around, some come with a filter advising it needs to be plumbed to the return line. Which one is the return line??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-Ste...item25ae220746

xr8 007 · 26-09-2015, 04:23 PM

Pics of the tool i used. Although there is no leverage on such a small spanner i used a small hammer to give it a light tap on the spanner to unscrew it.

**PridenJoy** · 28-09-2015, 02:19 PM

I did this job last week on the wagon. I put a cheap 14mm spanner in the vice and gave it couple of hits with a hammer to put a slight bend in it. Worked fine. The new AU switch genuine was $85. The FG switch by comparison is $25. ???

miki000 · 31-07-2017, 11:35 AM

As with all old Fords, the spanner size of original switch is imperial, it's a 9/16 (14.3 mm). If you can invest $25 in a spanner set from Supercheapauto, this one will do the job without bending or cutting. However it needs a bit of grinding off the sides to reduce width and gain a bit of travel when turning it.

**aussiblue** · 31-07-2017, 01:46 PM

It's also much easier to get at from below and side by taking the driver's side front wheel off.

adamc79 · 06-07-2018, 01:02 PM

This forum is a fantastic resource.

Expanding on this topic a little. Is anyone able to advise the size of the three o-rings?
- Pressure Hose
- Return Hose
- Switch

I have an AU falcon that has a power steering leak. We only have one car so I need to prepare ahead of time.

Cheers

Adamc79

slowsnake · 07-07-2018, 11:37 AM

Hello,
I did my switch 2 years ago,I just used from memory a 14 mm open end spanner cut in half,of course you need to disconnect the hydraulic lines.
Took me 2 hrs,with one hand,( my left hand is a claw hand ) too much welding helmet damaged cervical spine nerves.
It was daunting at first but from memory I did it from the top and underneath with trolley jack ( please use wheel chocks, handbrake and in park,plus support stands )

I disconnected from top first,drained into ice cream container on plastic/tarp and on opened newspaper,very absorbent.
Underneath I just managed to get spanner on,but under switch body,then cracked it with a 1lb hammer,I reversed spanner ( it was slightly offset ) and moved it a millimeter at a time!
Went up top and unscrewed by hand,dabbed it clean with cotton wool sticks, put a slight film of oil on "o" ring and just screwed it back in.
Back under car,behind front wheel, which I forgot to say was on full left lock,got spanner on and tap tap till tight.
Back up top and connected hoses and wire plug start engine and top up tank,turn lock to lock a few times,and bobs your uncle!
Sorry Bob nowadays could be your auntie!..lol..hahaha.

All one handed!
And it was this forum that showed me how to do it,including the diagnosis!

Cheers Billy.

**Uncle_Ken** · 07-07-2018, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamc79

This forum is a fantastic resource.

Expanding on this topic a little. Is anyone able to advise the size of the three o-rings?
- Pressure Hose
- Return Hose
- Switch

I have an AU falcon that has a power steering leak. We only have one car so I need to prepare ahead of time.

Cheers

Adamc79

Yes it is a fantastic forum. Let us know how you get on.
UK

adamc79 · 08-07-2018, 06:02 PM

Well. You learn something new every day.

As I stated in an earlier post, I wanted to get the particulars of the o-rings, such that I could have them ready and do it all in a one-er.

No one seems to be able to help with the o-ring sizes, so today I thought I'd take some time and take a look at the car, make sure the oil is coming from where I think it is coming from, etc. Basic recon.

So I jacks her up. Steering on left lock, rags and **** loads of solvent, get is sparkling..... So there I am laying there running the test procedure through my head, I was dreaming of laying there with the torch while making the missus hold the steering wheel on lock periodically.

While Laying and scheming, and staring up at the rack, I was feeling around the hoses and switch and stuff...Then I'm all: "Whats this then", the return line was loose... Really loose. It was a whole turn loose to finger tight.

Here is the thing. We have had this car for around 4 years. We had the LPG tank stamped as it was well overdue.... Outside of that, just basic engine servicing.

We have been townhouse and unit living for the entire period, myself and my partner have high workload, OS work etc. The Falcon was the last of our concerns. I know it has had a minor leak pretty much since we have owned it... But. I don't need to explain, that hose is right next to the exhaust and can supply some oil!

All it did was leak a little bit of oil over a long time! Not sure how. That is a good outcome!

slowsnake · 08-07-2018, 09:29 PM

Hello,
I got lost in/during this thread,I thought it was a leaking switch?...and you needed back up o rings for/or in case of leaks in hydraulic fittings!

Glad its sorted though!

Cheers Guilherme.