Paint-er Advice

[REAP3R]

Hi All,

Keen to get some advice on a respray I plan to do.

I've got an '05 Devil R. I'm sure most of you know they're shockwave blue which is a great colour but one which was no good in terms of integrity.
Paint has pooped itself.

This this is my pride and joy so I am not looking for a half *** respray which comes out great and dies about 5 years later.

Can anyone advise me on a painter who has produced high quality-lasting resprays for them? (i'm expecting 10 years paint life as a minimum....yes garage, gentle wash etc etc)
Needs to be in Melbourne, preferably the south east.

Thanks heaps in advance!

Matt

[Citroënbender]

It's outside his usual scope (Italian), but worth having a talk to Paul Rankin of Rankins Panels.

[fordomatic]

Won't be cheap, if it's any less than 10k i'd be worried. Have a look at google reviews for painters in your area, will give you an idea, not many with good reviews around and those that have good reviews would have earnt that reputation

[happy1]

Originally Posted by REAP3R

I'm sure most of you know they're shockwave blue which is a great colour but one which was no good in terms of integrity. Paint has pooped itself.

I am not looking for a half *** respray which comes out great and dies about 5 years later.

i'm expecting 10 years paint life as a minimum

Hi,
I believe the primer used at the time was part of the problem. The 'half ***' respray you describe I would assume is one where the painter only sands back the obvious peeled areas, and uses a primer on those areas.

The problem with Shockwave paint repair is to decide how far back you take the stripping. Should the painter take the entire exterior back to bare metal? This would then also require extensive strip-down, such as all glass and mouldings. The challenge is also for the painter to get the large areas of the sanded back panels to be as smooth as the original paint. I see so many spray jobs that are not 'factory' smooth, where the panels looks 'repaired' due to the way the filler primer has been prepared before the new paint.

As mentioned, you should be worried if a quote is less than 10k, and you should challenge them about how far the old paint will be sanded back, and which make of 2k primer will be used.

Cheers,

[snap0964]

That's my understanding of the shockwave paint recall too.

In that case it would be wise to go back to bare metal, otherwise, repainted areas with old primer base may start to show up after around 12 - 18 mths, and then only gets worse.
You could do a lot of the initial work yourself - strip the car to bare metal, you can use paint stripper, do sections at a time. Bare metal starts corroding in about 2 -3 hrs, so a coat of 2K epoxy primer to protect and seal the surface, for painting at a later date.

[REAP3R]

The advice around things to look out for is helpful. Thanks crew.

following the comments around return to bare metal, hows it going to work for bumpers? i.e the bottom surface is plastic so I imagine it is much harder to get the primer off to start over?

[snap0964]

You can get stripper that is compatible with plastic, although plastic parts may just need need sanding back for a suitable surface to paint, as plastic primer would've been used, and I think the issue with the shockwave recall is the body primer that was used.
If the external mirror covers need painting, take them off yourself - they release by tabs between the mirror glass and the mirror body - spraypainters will most likely try to pry them off, breaking those tabs.

[happy1]

Originally Posted by snap0964

You could do a lot of the initial work yourself - strip the car to bare metal, you can use paint stripper, do sections at a time. Bare metal starts corroding in about 2 -3 hrs, so a coat of 2K epoxy primer to protect and seal the surface, for painting at a later date.

I believe you will find that most paint shops will not be willing to do 'half' the job, if the prep and primer has been done by others. It is also a question about not making unnecessary mess, for example over-spray and disturbing the inside of doors and pillars where not necessary to re-paint.

The plastic parts (bumpers and mouldings) may not be affected by the peeling? Is there any sign of these parts peeling? Usually you don't want too many layers of paint on the bumpers, and you may want to use the clear paint adhesive chemical on those, instead of another layer of primer. Depends if your bumpers have any paint damage, or if they are free of stone chips and cracks.

In regards to 2k primer: You will find that primers are NOT water proof, and should not be left out in the environment. You shouldn't drive around in primer for more than a few sunny days.

Cheers,

[73 4V XB]

If anyone is going back to bare metal for a re-spray I highly recommend this product.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-...erter_p1560863
A forum member used this when restoring his Fairlane and it stopped any surface rust for over 3 months at times.
I’m not familiar with the paint issues your having but as already mentioned any plastic parts will have a different primer and won’t need striping, just a good rub with a white scotch pad and matting paste.
You won’t get the same peel as factory because you don’t have the same application process. As far as removing glass and moulding’s, all should be removed or you run the risk of it peeling from under what ever was left on the car and it’s easy to see the paint edge/dry spray. If your going to do it, do it properly or not at all.

[snap0964]

Originally Posted by happy1

I believe you will find that most paint shops will not be willing to do 'half' the job, if the prep and primer has been done by others. It is also a question about not making unnecessary mess, for example over-spray and disturbing the inside of doors and pillars where not necessary to re-paint.

Most shops won't if they don't know the customer - if the OP knows a painter, then it could be an option to reduce cost.

Originally Posted by happy1

In regards to 2k primer: You will find that primers are NOT water proof, and should not be left out in the environment. You shouldn't drive around in primer for more than a few sunny days.

Std primers/etch primers aren't waterproof, epoxy primers are, as are polyester based primers like All U need, always check the specs before using, of course. Don't view them as long term, but they'll buy you time til you get colour coats on. If using a std primer, I would get a colour coat on it ASAP, to seal it.
Ditto re the removing as much as you can - I've seen plenty of shocking masking marks from paint shop jobs.