2010 MB B Service Question

[Cammyron]

Hi All.

We have had our 2010 MB Mondeo Titanium TDCi for quite a while now, bought it when it was 18 months old and had 54,000km on it and had had the 60,000km B service done it just after we got it. It is now finally getting up to needing the next B service at 120,000km - yeah we don't drive much.

In the past i have done all the A services myself and was going to get someone else to do the B service but from what i can see it doesn't involve much more other than replacing the disiel filter which seems easy enough.

Is there anything else i need to be aware off? Its the sportmatic transmission so no need for fluid changes there and all belts are good to 200,000km supposedly.

[rondeo]

I thought Titanium diesels all had powershift transmission as standard?
Powershift should have fluid change at 120000km.

[Cammyron]

The very first ones didn't. Anything build after May 2010 i think has them. The ones done before that are the sports automatic.

[rondeo]

I think it's worth changing the cabin filter every couple of years, service interval is 15000km, too often maybe. It's a fiddly job, I have a guide if needed.


Is the diesel filter in the engine bay or at the rear underneath? Bleeding the filter can be tricky. You need a mityvac, rubber bulbs no good.

[Cammyron]

I was going to follow this for the fule filter, its underneath

https://youtu.be/Po4BddwSJ1Q

Cabin filter would be good if you can share the guide.

[rondeo]

I wouldn't follow that video unless you want fuel down your sleeve and potential damage to the fuel pump.

There is a drip free procedure but you need special plugs for the fuel lines, I made my own but probably not worth it if you don't need to do it often. You also need a hand operated vacuum pump.

I'd suggest the following if you're doing the 'wrong' way:

Have the fuel tank nearly empty or low.

Don't put a tube on the drain, this acts as a syphon as you can see in the video.

Crack the seal just enough to let air in.

Put a measuring jug under to collect the drained fuel, 500ml is what the filter holds, it should stop draining at that point, but remember this is the 'wrong' way...

After you change the filter it will be full of air, do not crank the engine to prime it, otherwise the pump may be damaged by running dry and the starter can overheat. There's no pump in the tank.

If you're not that keen it might be a better idea to have it done at a Ford dealer, they will be familiar with the procedure.


As the man demonstrates in his video, the hardest part is priming the filter.

[rondeo]

CABIN FILTER RENEWAL - MONDEO 2007-2014


CAUTION: Either disconnect the battery or take care when handling the GEM.


TOOLS

Small cordless screwdriver, pistol or bent style.
T20 torx bit.
7 mm Hex socket.
10mm Hex socket.
Right angle drive adapter for cordless driver.
Centering spike or scriber
for lining up any mis-aligned screw holes.
#2 philips bit.
worklight.

REMOVE AND INSTALL

Remove glovebox: 4 torx screws and 2 10mm hex head.
Remove 4 electrical connectors from glovebox (USB
socket complete with bracket).

Remove trim panel below glovebox.
Release the catch and lower the electronics module(GEM).
Lift the module out of the rear pivots
and manoeuvre it out of the way.

Remove the 3 cabin filter cover screws
using right angle drive adapter.
Pull the old filter out.

The new filter goes in with the airflow arrow
pointing into the cabin.
Bending the filter is necessary to get it in.

[rondeo]

Another option to consider when draining the fuel filter is to disconnect the inlet line to let air in (instead of cracking the filter seal), provided the fuel level in the tank is low enough to prevent syphoning...

[alfamale87]

Originally Posted by Cammyron

I was going to follow this for the fule filter, its underneath

https://youtu.be/Po4BddwSJ1Q

Cabin filter would be good if you can share the guide.

Hi Cammyron
Rondeo is correct avoid following this video. I did and ended up calling a mobile mechanic to prime my system. I lost approx 2L because of this siphoning effect.
Rondeo I am interested in the plugs you made for the inlet and outlet points? Can you give me any pointers where to purchase the male nipples from?
Great write up on the cabin. I have been putting it off for a while now

Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

[rondeo]

Maybe these:





#M1181D10 (11.8mm straight male)


#M9491D8 (9.49mm straight male)


from:


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-8mm-...-/322135265686


should do the trick when blocked with eg silicon.


The ones I made are solid plastic 11.5mm and 9.5mm.


The way I do it is outlined above. Can be done other ways but with two cars I've done 6 changes now and I don't care for the smell of stray diesel .

[rondeo]

MONDEO DIESEL FUEL FILTER CHANGE

CAUTION avoid damage to fuel line female quick connect 'o' rings
and ingress of dirt to pump supply line (12mm quick connect).

Applies where filter is at rear underneath.
This method aims to ensure no air remains in the system so the engine should start normally and continue to run without stalling.
Requires both fuel lines to be disconnected and blocked:





Remove the 10mm fuel filter inlet quick release connector and insert blanking plug into the 10mm female connector.

Remove the 12mm fuel filter outlet quick release connector and insert blanking plug into the 12mm female connector.

Drain 500ml of diesel from filter housing using the drain plug (18mm spanner).

Replace the filter element.

Reconnect the 10mm female fuel tank outlet to the filter housing inlet spigot.

Draw fuel from the 12mm male outlet on the filter housing with a hand operated vacuum pump (mityvac etc) via a waste bottle until fuel begins to flow into the waste bottle.

Reconnect the 12mm quick connector.

Diesel collected in the vacuum tester bottle can be returned to the tank using the Ford adapter funnel.

[alfamale87]

Hi Rondeo,
This is great help. Thank you very much for the write up. I will be getting some plugs soon in preparation for the next service.
Thanks


Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

[rondeo]

Hi.


It's amazing how many youtube videos fail on this fuel filter change, here's another:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IrAXfIXwMA

Engine stalls at 6:00, the guy then has to prime the supply line to the pump after having already primed the filter.

And why didn't he just draw fuel from the tank instead of a can?

[rondeo]

Watching that fascinating video again!
Why did the engine stall? Whodunnit?

At 3:23 there's a new stream of fuel then fade out.
Could that be from the pump supply line?

And then there's the mysterious method of sucking fuel from the filter inlet via the filter outlet going to a jerry can. Hmm..

Back to the Weeties..

[NZ XR6]

I hate working with diesel and took mine to a diesel specialist to be changed. I've since had occasional problems with the engine cutting out, or jerking when pulling away from a stop, but it all seems OK now.

If there is a next time, I will either do it myself or take it to a Ford dealer.

[adyadad]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

I hate working with diesel and took mine to a diesel specialist to be changed. I've since had occasional problems with the engine cutting out, or jerking when pulling away from a stop, but it all seems OK now.

If there is a next time, I will either do it myself or take it to a Ford dealer.

I had the wife's wagon 60,000 service done at a Ford dealer and it did the same. It cleared after a short time and hasn't happened again. They also listed on the bill as having used the wrong engine oil and didn't bother updating the maps when one was available. This isn't the first time a dealer has done a shoddy job and not just Ford.
It will be out of warranty for the next service. Not going back to Ford.
Find a good independent and stick with them. I found dealers overcharge and under service.
At least I get a wash and vacuum from Volkswagen.