|
|
|
|
|
|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
|||||||
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
15-05-2019, 09:18 AM
|
#1 | ||
|
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 2
|
Hello,
I'm wondering if there is any way of establishing what size stud holes my rotors should be for my vehicle (2011 2.0 tdci). Lots of places say that 13.8mm or 15.8mm can appear on this type of car. I have measured the stud and that appears to be a M12, so I am leaning towards 1.38mm stud holes, although I am not sure. Anybhelp would be great. https://ibb.co/bBKnknv Thanks |
||
|
|
|
15-05-2019, 12:35 PM
|
#2 | ||
|
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
|
Stud hole size doesn't matter. The disc is clamped by the wheel nuts.
What matters is the central locating hole (around 63mm from memory) the location of retainer screw holes (preventing disc movement on wheel removal) and the alloy used in the disc. I use Ford discs, hoping to keep original braking performance. They seem to need replacing with the pads, 100,000km in my case, country driving. Mine were 13.8mm, 2011 MC diesel. Last edited by rondeo; 15-05-2019 at 12:42 PM. |
||
|
|
|
|
15-05-2019, 08:30 PM
|
#3 | ||
|
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,680
 
|
Save the headache and use genuine H2MZ 1V125 E which is the Motorcraft service part, or 7G91 1125 EA which is the OE spec.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-...frcectupt=true https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-...frcectupt=true |
||
|
|
|
|
18-05-2019, 08:49 PM
|
#4 | |||
|
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Queensland
Posts: 80
|
Quote:
__________________
Latest ride: Ford Falcon FG X G6E Fondly remembered: 2013 Ford Mondeo Zetec Ecoboost Hatch Last edited by cyclone1410; 18-05-2019 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Grammar |
|||
|
|
|
|
12-07-2019, 04:48 PM
|
#5 | ||
|
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 34
|
Just done my rear rotors and will do fronts tomorrow.
Got all 4 for $340 from Ford Dealer, went with Bendix GCT pads. Seem to be okay. I had to buy the piston winder kit from Supercheap, dont waste money on the cube just buy the kit of ebay or Supercheap. |
||
|
|
|
|
20-07-2019, 06:05 AM
|
#6 | ||
|
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,266
|
My rear rotors were able to be machined and the pads were replaced with Remsa ceramic. They were quite noisy at first and took ages to bed in, but are fine now and very quiet.
The brakes feel well balanced with the original front pads and rotors. I had to do an emergency stop on the motorway a few weeks ago and there wasn't the usual ABS drama from the back.
__________________
MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
||
|
|
|
| This user likes this post: |
MC Front rotors
Linear Mode
