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#1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mildura
Posts: 355
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Out of nowhere last night, when I went to unlock my AU2 XR8 the doors won't unlock.
The battery in the remote is fine, and I can't even unlock the car manually. Also tried hitting unlock twice in an effort to open the passenger door, but same issue, nothing happened. Along with this, when I tried re-locking/arming and unlocking - thinking doing this may somehow make a difference, the car beeped as if to indicate the doors were already locked/car armed - it's as if when I'm hitting 'unlock' on the remote, the car isn't registering it. Anyone else had a similar experience and know of a solution? I was thinking disconnecting the battery and reconnecting to see if that may somehow reset everything, but I can't even get into the car to open the bonnet. At this point, I'm looking at getting RACV in to break into the car as I've not had much experience doing this, but suspect there's a deeper problem. I've done a search through the various posts re central locking, but in the majority of cases it's been an actuator problem, or the doors can at least be unlocked manually. My issue seems more electrical/Smartshield related.
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Current: 2000 AUII XR8 manual ute. 1966 XP Pursuit ute. 2012 Honda Euro manual (daily drive) Past: 1984 XE Falcon sedan 4.1L. Last edited by Strattos; 07-04-2019 at 12:12 PM. |
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#2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,423
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Hi. Did the key ever work in the door or boot? Quite often a worn ignition switch or lock gets changed out at some point and owners get fed up with having two keys in the keyring so the old key get put away for safe keeping (with the glovebox key) These keys along with the spare keys are never seen again. The best bet is trying to find an automotive locksmith who could pick the door lock and make it work with your key and fix or replace your remote as well. Cheers MD
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![]() HI ![]() I'M MICHAEL ![]() 2003 ACID RUSH BA FUTURA WAGON ![]() light up window switches | auto on cruise control | doubleclick window lift from remote |
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#3 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,865
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Almost certainly the microswitch in the fob, if the "lock" button still works.
Bit of work with a soldering iron, anyone who can fix electronic gear can do it quickly enough - try swapping the panic button switch for the unlock switch (least used to most used). |
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#4 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mildura
Posts: 355
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Thanks for the response. The key worked perfectly last time I tried it, which was probably a month ago.
But will do as you've suggested and look into an auto locksmith.
__________________
Current: 2000 AUII XR8 manual ute. 1966 XP Pursuit ute. 2012 Honda Euro manual (daily drive) Past: 1984 XE Falcon sedan 4.1L. |
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#5 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mildura
Posts: 355
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Thanks Citreonbender. When I press the unlock button, the remote light still works to indicate it's transmitting.would this be the case if the microswitch was buggered?
If the microswitch in the fob was the problem, shouldn't i still be able to manually open the lock with the key, or would this over-ride the ability to do that?
__________________
Current: 2000 AUII XR8 manual ute. 1966 XP Pursuit ute. 2012 Honda Euro manual (daily drive) Past: 1984 XE Falcon sedan 4.1L. |
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#6 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,865
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Good observation, if it's the same intensity and duration of LED as for the "lock" signal then the microswitch is OK.
The door barrels are fickle, more so than the ignition! Maybe then, see if you can get in using the good old blue strapping tape, or if your road service includes lockouts, put them to work. |
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#7 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mildura
Posts: 355
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah unfortunately it's the same intensity and frequency. The fact I can't unlock the passenger door either makes me worry it's a deeper problem with smartshield or something.
Thanks again for the ideas though.
__________________
Current: 2000 AUII XR8 manual ute. 1966 XP Pursuit ute. 2012 Honda Euro manual (daily drive) Past: 1984 XE Falcon sedan 4.1L. |
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#8 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,865
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The Tibbe keys can be “read” with a measuring tool that gives the original specifications - this allows a proper locksmith to cut an unworn key from a worn sample. While it won’t start the car it may at least get you in.
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#9 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mildura
Posts: 355
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Thanks, will lock up some auto locksmiths
__________________
Current: 2000 AUII XR8 manual ute. 1966 XP Pursuit ute. 2012 Honda Euro manual (daily drive) Past: 1984 XE Falcon sedan 4.1L. |
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#10 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,865
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Were you able to put a dent in this one?
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#11 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mildura
Posts: 355
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Still haven't got to the bottom of it yet. Ended up breaking in via the passenger side, but the driver's side door still won't open - won't unlock via remote control, or using the key. And when you try opening the door from the inside it's still not unlocking/opening.
On the positive hopefully doesn't appear to be Smartshield related as I could start and the drive the car without an issue. Waiting till the weekend when I get some time and I'll try a few things - starting with Forscan to see if it's throwing any codes re Smartshield or similar. Then I'll take the door lining off and see what's happening behind there - something's broken or binding with the actuator, but not sure why as there were zero signs of anything on the way out before this problem on the weekend.
__________________
Current: 2000 AUII XR8 manual ute. 1966 XP Pursuit ute. 2012 Honda Euro manual (daily drive) Past: 1984 XE Falcon sedan 4.1L. |
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#12 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,865
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Glad you found a round-a-bout way to gain access, and good that it will start and drive. Hopping across the console or doing the "General Lee" to get in?
The actuator is part of the lock assembly (and I think carried through BF), should be a fairly straightforward R&R. Assuming it's not something simple like the lock rod wire has jammed and is stopping everything else... |
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#13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,423
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Hi. it will be the "handle return spring" in the latch itself. You will need to get the rods and levers for the outer handle on the latch back to the proper resting place before trying to unlock the door and once the door is open replace the complete latch assy itself, not just the locking actuator. Cheers MD
__________________
![]() HI ![]() I'M MICHAEL ![]() 2003 ACID RUSH BA FUTURA WAGON ![]() light up window switches | auto on cruise control | doubleclick window lift from remote |
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#14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mildura
Posts: 355
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Thanks for the input.
Just an update on this if it helps others in the same boat, it appears to be an issue with an aftermarket actuator. Sorry should have mentioned in the initial post that I replaced the entire actuator about six months ago after the plastic gear snapped - but it's worked perfectly since installation so didn't think it was the issue.. Got lazy at the time and instead of ordering one of the actuator repair kits, which essentially just provides the replacement gear, I replaced the entire actuator with an aftermarket item. As above it worked fine until the issue a couple of weeks ago. After managing to get into the car I removed the inner door lining enough to get limited access to the actuator and without being able to see what I was doing (door was still shut so access was a bit tricky) I blindly felt around to see if anything was binding and in doing so the door unlocked - still no idea what the issue was. Thinking (hoping) it was just a random thing given everything seemed to be working again - locked and unlocked well over a dozen times without issue - I put it all back together and all good....for a day, when it happened again. Went through the crap job again of removing what I could of the interior door lining with the door shut, I stuffed around blindly for a couple of hours before freeing up the lock. Wondering if there was an issue with the aftermarket actuator I pulled it apart, took out the gear that broke in the original item and reinstalled the original actuator with the gear from the aftermarket. It's been perfect ever since. I know it's hardly conclusive, particularly given I couldn't find anything obvious in the aftermarket actuator, but wondering if clearances/tolerances were a bit rough in the aftermarket item which somehow caused it to lock up. Anyway, problem solved, but annoys me that I still can't pinpoint specifically where the issue was.
__________________
Current: 2000 AUII XR8 manual ute. 1966 XP Pursuit ute. 2012 Honda Euro manual (daily drive) Past: 1984 XE Falcon sedan 4.1L. |
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#15 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 59
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Heya I'm having a similar problem (sorry to revive)
Not sure if this is exactly the same issue, mine goes through the cycle of unlocking but then locks immediately after (or maybe it doesn't unlock at all). Did you end up replacing the latch, or did you just replace the actuator? If I'm lucky I can get into the drivers side door. But it is very much locked all round and takes multiple tries with the remote to unlock the door. Can't even unlock it with the key. |
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