Power Windows Conversion S1 Forte

frd906 · 01-03-2010, 01:06 AM

Need some help guys, just bought s2 door trims and i wanna do a power window conversion, just the front doors.

I pulled my drivers side loom out and found out my 99 au forte dosent have the plugs or the looms for them

: , i only have the single plug, all the s1 power window looms my wrecker had has 2 plugs,

:

What would be my best options, as i wanna keep the s2 trims, would be gratefull

huggiebear · 03-03-2010, 12:14 AM

there would be 2 options, swap the loom with a power window enabled loom, OR grab the power window loom from your wrecker for under the carpet and wire it in to the car. but the AU's have a time delay for the windows so you can turn the car off and still put the windows up, but you can run the power trigger wire off the boot release switch as it has the same time delay power

id need to have a look at some wiring diagrams to work it out

frd906 · 03-03-2010, 12:23 AM

i pulled my carpert up on the drivers side, now the loom which goes into my door, only has one big white plug, the same loom for the electric windows for drivers side has 2 small plugs, and both looms are series one,

If i was to swap over to a series 1 futura dash would i need the bem, ecu. or will my forte dash plugs, plug straight back into the futura dash, which has the plugs there for the electric windows

huggiebear · 03-03-2010, 12:27 AM

you will probebly need BCM ECU and full loom if you go series 2 as series 2 go to smartshield not smartlock like series 1.

if you get a series 1 loom you should be right, but will still need the BCM i believe

on the e-series the power window loom is seperate and runs under the carpet, but the door looms are 1 piece with 2 plugs inside the car.

if i was you id rip up the carpet in a power window'd AU at a wrecker and have a look where the loom goes

frd906 · 03-03-2010, 12:32 AM

i did that at my au wrecker, he said, i dont have plugs where the loom goes through for electric windows, but a series 1 futura dash has it there

bodes-sh · 03-03-2010, 08:53 AM

i did a 4 power window conversion in mine. i just ran all new wiring for the windows. i didn't use any factory looms, and mapped out the switches myself to work out which was was up, down, etc. i also got a timed relay box setup from jaycar that lets you set power anywhere from 1 sec to 10 min i believe. i have it set to 30 secs so you have a bit of time to put the windows up when you turn the key off. it should be a fair bit easier with only doing fronts.

blownv8au · 03-03-2010, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

i did a 4 power window conversion in mine. i just ran all new wiring for the windows. i didn't use any factory looms, and mapped out the switches myself to work out which was was up, down, etc. i also got a timed relay box setup from jaycar that lets you set power anywhere from 1 sec to 10 min i believe. i have it set to 30 secs so you have a bit of time to put the windows up when you turn the key off. it should be a fair bit easier with only doing fronts.

I have to do the same in my ute minus the timer relay where did you wire them into, anywhere or is there a provision for them in the fuse terminal. Thanks

bodes-sh · 03-03-2010, 10:06 PM

yeah mate, there is a spot in the fuse panel for a relay and a fuse up the top in the centre. i found though, that the ben switches the earth so you can't just plug a relay and a fuse in and use the power windows, they won't work. so what i did was just found which wires were the 12v feed for the relay and put wire with crimped terminals in them, then i tucked the relay up behind the fuse panel and just hooked the earth up in behind there. the only problem with doing it this way is only power there with the key turned on. not that it's necessarily a problem if that's how you want it to work i guess...i only did mine the way i did so if i forgot to put a window up i didn't have to turn the key back on, or if someone is putting another window up and you turn the key off half way through...

i will get a pic in the next day or 2 of the fuse panel and how i did it

frd906 · 03-03-2010, 10:30 PM

would be good man, and also did u use some of the loom for the switches, or did u run your own wires to the switch and back to the window motor

bodes-sh · 03-03-2010, 11:24 PM

nah, ran all my own wiring. been on there for a good 12 months now and all still going fine. i think i put a 30a fuse in it, but the wiring i used was a bit more heavy duty than what the factory wiring would be... i got a roll of i think it was 8a wire from supercheap and went nuts. for the rears i used fairly thick 2 core wire, probably rated to 8a also i reckon.

huggiebear · 03-03-2010, 11:36 PM

as i mentioned before, if you tap into the boot release power button you should be able to make use of the time delay relay as i believe both power windows and boot release run off the same relay for power

frd906 · 03-03-2010, 11:43 PM

You can pop the boot anytime on the key pad, but when you press the button in the car it wont pop,

you wouldnt mine doing up a few pics and a wiring diagram for us series 1 onwers would be good mate

TK-421 · 13-03-2010, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

yeah mate, there is a spot in the fuse panel for a relay and a fuse up the top in the centre. i found though, that the ben switches the earth so you can't just plug a relay and a fuse in and use the power windows, they won't work. so what i did was just found which wires were the 12v feed for the relay and put wire with crimped terminals in them, then i tucked the relay up behind the fuse panel and just hooked the earth up in behind there. the only problem with doing it this way is only power there with the key turned on. not that it's necessarily a problem if that's how you want it to work i guess...i only did mine the way i did so if i forgot to put a window up i didn't have to turn the key back on, or if someone is putting another window up and you turn the key off half way through...

i will get a pic in the next day or 2 of the fuse panel and how i did it

hey bodes-sh are you able to put the pictures up as i'm also doing this conversion?

bodes-sh · 04-04-2010, 05:49 PM

sorry it's been a while, i can't get any pics at the moment as i don't have a camera here, but i did find the little wiring diagram i wrote up when i did the conversion.

i used fairmont switches, which have lights in them, but i'm not sure if xr ones did. i know the front only forte/futura ones didn't so this won't apply to them.

this is the diagram i made up for a 4 door window conversion, i'm not sure if the front only switches are set up the same or not.

the top of the image is the same rotation as the top of the door switches. ie roll the switch over 180deg in your hand and look at it from the bottom.

for the plugs i used small crimping terminals from dick smith (they are about 1/2 the size of the normal insulated ones that you can get). i used electrical tape on the end of them, but heat shrink would probably be better to use, you need to insulate the terminals (if you do it this way) all the way down to the end so they can't touch each other at all. they stay on fairly well, but obviously not as well as the genuine plugs that would normally go into the window switches.

i will try and get some photos when i can get hold of a digital camera, in the meantime i hope that helps a bit

Travisty FTT · 06-09-2010, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by huggiebear

you will probebly need BCM ECU and full loom if you go series 2 as series 2 go to smartshield not smartlock like series 1.

if you get a series 1 loom you should be right, but will still need the BCM i believe

on the e-series the power window loom is seperate and runs under the carpet, but the door looms are 1 piece with 2 plugs inside the car.

if i was you id rip up the carpet in a power window'd AU at a wrecker and have a look where the loom goes

I'm currently in the midst of making this conversion, but I've only got the under-carpet wiring and front power windows.

I'm getting the BEM and ECU from a S2 SR model, and putting it into a S1 Forte. Is there anything else that I'll have to do to get the windows working?

frd906 · 06-09-2010, 11:09 AM

Just hard wire them in, alot easier then rewiring the whole entire car just to gain electric windows

superroo · 06-09-2010, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teknoslasher

I'm currently in the midst of making this conversion, but I've only got the under-carpet wiring and front power windows.

I'm getting the BEM and ECU from a S2 SR model, and putting it into a S1 Forte. Is there anything else that I'll have to do to get the windows working?

Is the series 1 smartlock or smartshield?

If it is smart lock, it will be missing 1 length of wire from the ecu to the cluster, and another 1 foot of wiring that connects the bem into a comms channel for the ecu and the cluster. This means a dash out job.

If it's smartshield, I don't think so.

Cheers

fourl6 · 06-09-2010, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by huggiebear

on the e-series the power window loom is seperate and runs under the carpet, but the door looms are 1 piece with 2 plugs inside the car.

if i was you id rip up the carpet in a power window'd AU at a wrecker and have a look where the loom goes

sounds like AU1 wiring is the same as e series, iv got AU1 power window door wiring (out of a optioned AU1 XR6) and its 1 wiring loom with 2 plugs that connect the door to the car, tried with my S3car/S2dash and i didnt have the second plug, also blew a fuse with just 1 connected, so i assume S1 and S3 door wiring isnt compatible.

coey · 07-09-2010, 05:56 PM

so i got single plug door harnesses to fit power windows to my au 1 and wasted my money by the sounds of it :(

fourl6 · 07-09-2010, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coey

so i got single plug door harnesses to fit power windows to my au 1 and wasted my money by the sounds of it :(

if you just want to fit front power windows the 1 plug is fine, i was referring to 4 door wiring....

coey · 08-09-2010, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fourl6

if you just want to fit front power windows the 1 plug is fine, i was referring to 4 door wiring....

or ok, must have misread it thanks for the reply

falcon oath · 09-09-2010, 09:20 AM

Just did the conversion in my au S1 wagon , went and bought 2 looms from front doors from a classic falcon ,
transfered the looms and mechs into doors ,
and they are the 2 plug looms , just make sure you get the ones with the same plug to suit your looms ,
pick a part is your best option as you can get plugs that fit the looms so you can join the wires up to make them longer ,
depending on what year and month your falcon is they should be easy to get
left loom was the easiest to find , right was a bit harder as mine is a aug 98 model and could not find one , ended up going with a 99 model then transfering all the connections into my original wiring loom plug
then i gave it to my local auto elec and he wired them up properly into the loom and fusebox , even did the 45 second time delay , and for that he charged me $150 .00
this saved me a lot of headaches ,
good luck and i hope this helps ,

frd906 · 09-09-2010, 09:24 AM

Wierd, my series 1 forte 99 feb build, didnt have the plugs for the windows at all, i only had the big pain plug, not the 2 small ones

falcon oath · 09-09-2010, 09:55 AM

you wont have the plugs in the a pillar for the 2nd plug to accept , niether did mine
When i got the donor looms i made sure i grabbed the female plug for the electric windows ,
This is why i gave the headache to my local auto elec
save your self the headache and pay a auto elec to wire it up ,

frd906 · 09-09-2010, 10:10 AM

I considerd getting them hard wired in, then i cbf doing it, like my winders just as much

Travisty FTT · 09-09-2010, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by falcon oath

This is why i gave the headache to my local auto elec
save your self the headache and pay a auto elec to wire it up ,

Mine should be wired up hopefully this weekend or the next, just depends on how soon I can get one of my family members to assist.

frd906 · 09-09-2010, 12:09 PM

Teknoslasher- Let us no how u go, i might be interested agian if you can get it working properly

Travisty FTT · 09-09-2010, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frd906

Teknoslasher- Let us no how u go, i might be interested agian if you can get it working properly

Shouldn't be a problem as the family member is a qualified auto electrician. The only difficult part is trying to get him to do it.

I'll try and get him to go slowly and I'll try and capture it with my camera and diagrams so it can be done up as a tutorial. I know the lights for the buttons won't be a problem -- they can just get wired to the steering column's light.

coey · 13-09-2010, 06:48 PM

i tried wiring mine with a 5 pin relay but when i tapped into the boot release power wire at the switch to use as a trigger for the relay it made the boot solenoid open when ever i connect that wire to the switch input terminal on the relay. think i will just have to hook it to ignition power and get a timed relay

Bigredbf · 25-12-2019, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

nah, ran all my own wiring. been on there for a good 12 months now and all still going fine. i think i put a 30a fuse in it, but the wiring i used was a bit more heavy duty than what the factory wiring would be... i got a roll of i think it was 8a wire from supercheap and went nuts. for the rears i used fairly thick 2 core wire, probably rated to 8a also i reckon.

Correct me if I’m wrong but I’m sure you need to run wire that matches your fuse 30a wire? Looking further into it if you got 8agw rated 70ish amp that’s way overkill. People I noticed are using 12agw 41amp. I think you could about get away with 14agw 32amp rated