DIY Diesel fuel filter change Mondeo 2007-2014

[rondeo]

DIESEL FUEL FILTER CHANGE Mondeo TDCi 2007-2014

These notes were written for my own use and amusement, maybe someone will
find them useful. In any case its just how I have done it, no problems.

WARNING:

After changing the diesel filter the engine should start normally, ie at once,
and keep running.
If you get too much air in the fuel lines and attempt to start the engine for too long
the HP fuel pump might be damaged by lack of lubrication. Not to mention stressing the battery.

Get the fuel line connectors plugged smartly after disconnecting them.
No fuel coming out isn't a sign of no air getting in, as the lines may siphon,
drawing air in.
A problem might be getting/making nice fitting plugs, with those
it's easy. Without proper plugs you can't do it this way.



REQUIRED EQUIPMENT:

One smooth cylindrical plug 9.7mm diameter (3/8")
made of stainless steel, aluminium, brass or diesel resistant plastic
(I use acetal plastic from a plastics supplier and turned on a lathe).
Another plug of the same smoothness maybe 11.5mm (29/64) or (7/16) 11.11mm
(I can't remember which plug I used. I made three. I'll try to fix this in 8000km.)
Maybe a diesel fuel specialist would have some plugs. This could be a problem.
A rubber bulb fuel priming pump and suitable PVC hose.
I got a bulb from a marine supplies shop (BCF).
I found the female connector with the pump was the right size.
The main thing is not to damage the connector 'o' rings or get dirt in the lines.
Figure out how the connectors work and don't force anything.
Don't use jacks anywhere except at the designated points on the sill.

PROCEDURE

Remove the electrical connector from the filter housing.
Remove fuel inlet (smaller pipe) and immediately plug the female connector.
Remove fuel outlet (larger pipe) and immediately plug the female connector.
Drain diesel from filter housing using the drain plug.
Remove the filter housing from the bracket on the vehicle and replace filter.
Install the filter housing to the bracket on the vehicle.
Connect the outlet of a rubber bulb primer to the inlet on the filter housing.
Prime the filter with clean diesel until fuel starts flowing at the outlet with no bubbles.
Remove plugs one at a time and install both fuel line connectors,
making sure everything is clean.
Return unused clean diesel to the tank using the Ford adapter funnel.
Store the bits and pieces in a plastic storage container.
Maybe light the woodheater with the remaining fuel.

[rondeo]

Just some addition/corrections for my diesel fuel filter how to notes.

The fuel connectors are probably metric sizes - 8mm and 12mm.
On this basis blanking plugs could be from 7.5 to 8mm and 11.5 to 12mm,
with a looser fit preferred to avoid damage.

Air shouldn't get in the lines if the connectors are plugged.
In the unlikely event there is air in the system the system may self-bleed
by operating the starter for a maximum of 10 seconds (source: Ford manual).
The reason for the ten second limit: overheating the starter motor.

If there's too much air in the system (eg someone forgot to prime the filter!!)
then it will be necessary to bleed from the fuel line in the engine bay,
special adapter required.

The filter can be changed with the housing remaining on the vehicle, but I
find it easier with it off.

There's a youtube video on changing the fuel filter which demonstrates air
getting in the system, and subsequent DIY bleeding. This can be avoided by
using blanking plugs.

[rondeo]

Mk4 Diesel fuel filter DIY how-to revision.
To follow is a pruned version with the
essential details.
There are other ways of doing the filter change,
some better than others maybe.
This is just my preferred method.

Cheers

[rondeo]

Mk4 MONDEO DIESEL FUEL FILTER CHANGE Rev. 1.

GENERAL:

Aeration of the fuel system is avoided using this procedure.
Bleeding the system should not be necessary, just priming the filter.
The fuel line quick release connectors have 'o' rings inside so
are liable to be damaged if appropriate plugs are not used.
Unfortunately suitable plugs seem to be hard to find.
Any smooth cylindrical oblect made of stainless steel,
aluminium, brass or diesel resistant plastic might be used.


EQUIPMENT:

New diesel fuel filter element.
8mm quick release connector blanking plug, actual plug size 7.5mm +.
12mm quick release connector blanking plug, actual plug size 11.5mm +.
A rubber bulb fuel priming pump and suitable PVC hose.
8mm female quick release connector.
Clean diesel fuel, either from a can or a tube into the tank.
Waste fuel container and 12mm PVC hose.
Ford adapter funnel for the capless diesel filler, if required.


PROCEDURE:

Raise the vehicle.
Remove the electrical connector from the filter housing.
Remove fuel inlet 8mm quick release connector and insert the blanking plug.
Remove fuel outlet 12mm quick release connector and insert the blanking plug.
Drain diesel from filter housing using the drain plug.
Remove the filter housing from the bracket on the vehicle and replace filter element.
Install the filter housing to the bracket on the vehicle.
Connect the outlet of the priming pump to the inlet on the filter housing.
Prime the filter with clean diesel until fuel flows at the outlet.
Remove the blanking plugs and install the fuel line connectors to the filter housing.
Install the electrical connector.
Return unused clean diesel to the tank using the Ford adapter funnel.

[rondeo]

More Badgertronics DIY, this time bleeding the diesel fuel line for example when changing the filter:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-jTxC1Is-Y

Not very effective though, as per one comment suggesting the following connected to the supply line:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/briggs-s...l-kit_p3370025

Probably the cheapest pump to do it effectively, I bought one and it looks fine. It could be used either at the filter outlet or at the supply line under the bonnet, bearing in mind this is post filter and pre injectors so best to avoid ingress of dirt.

I'll have a go at updating my DIY write up, now I've done a few and use only a suction pump to prime the filter.

[rondeo]

DIY diesel fuel filter change, revised and concise.


Remove the electrical connector from the filter housing.

Remove and plug the fuel inlet connector.

Remove and plug the fuel outlet connector.

Drain fuel from filter housing.

Unscrew the filter housing and replace filter element.

Alternatively, remove the filter housing complete with bracket and replace filter element.

Re-connect the fuel inlet line.

Use a hand operated suction pump with a waste bottle to prime the filter from the filter outlet.

Re-connect the fuel outlet line.


NOTES:

Applies vehicles with filter underneath at the rear.

Disconnecting the fuel inlet line before draining the filter ensures that the flow of fuel comes to a halt rather than continuing to syphon from the tank.
The drain opens with an 18mm spanner and the filter holds 500ml.

Plugging the female connectors ensures that no air enters the fuel lines.

Priming the filter ensures the high pressure fuel pump isn't damaged by running dry, the battery isn't flattened trying to start and the car it's safe to drive.

[NZ XR6]

Thanks very much for this. What did you use to plug the fuel pipes?

Sent from somewhere using Tapatalk

[rondeo]

These sites show the general idea for plugs:

https://www.grdiesel.com/store/fuel-...k-connect-plug

and

http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co...pes-3527-p.asp


Unfortunately they are probably not exactly the right size and there's a risk of damaging the 'o' rings in the female connectors if they are tight or have sharp edges.

The fuel connector spigots are size 10mm inlet to the filter and 12mm outlet to the fuel delivery line.
The actual spigot sizes are 9.9mm and 11.8mm as I measured. So those are the required plug sizes.
Not being able to find them for sale I turned a pair out of acetal plastic.

Maybe possible to change the filter without plugging the lines but I like having it under some control...

A small engineering firm might turn aluminium plugs, acetal if you can get it, or nylon. Ad hoc methods like screwed up glad wrap are not likely to work well, might dissolve into goo and increase the probability of dirt getting in, not so bad on the supply side but the delivery side not so good.

Of course it would be more sensible just to get it done at a Ford dealer, but where's the fun in that?

[stefcio007]

There's a video on YouTube now.
https://youtu.be/EHH3mX2FUwM

Not disconnecting the pipes makes it much easier and quicker.

Only difference on the Focus is a metal bracket protecting the housing. You can actually see the mounting holes for it on the Mondeo which are unused.
For ~$20 for the filter and maybe at most 15 minutes it's an easy maintenance item.
My old filter looks like the one in the video, mine was in there for ~50,000 km.

Can confirm the car did start after doing this so I didn't screw this up, lol.

Ford damaged the threads a little bit last time they did it but it wasn't beyond repair...

[rondeo]

For vehicles with the filter adjacent to the fuel tank at the rear:


Remove the 12mm fuel connector and promptly insert blanking plug.
This is the fuel filter to HP pump line.

Remove the 10mm connector and promptly insert blanking plug.
This is the line fronm the fuel tank to the filter.

Drain 500ml fuel from the filter housing.

Remove the filter and replace.

Re-connect the 10mm connector from the tank to the filter.

Use a hand operated vacuum tester
to draw fuel from the outlet spigot on the filter housing
until it is primed.

Suitable plugs could be made using these:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-6mm-8m...-/222149564454


Sizes are 10mm for tank to filter and 12mm for filter to HP pump.
Note there is no lift pump in the tank.

[rondeo]

Diesel Fuel Filter At the Rear: Explanation.

Mondeo fuel filters come in two flavours, either
near the engine (maybe post 2013) 2007 to ... or at the rear
adjacent to the fuel tank.

Where the filter is at the rear near the fuel tank
opening the drain plug will not always result in draining the filter.
The filter might be lower than the fuel level in the tank
and fuel will just syphon from the tank.
See 2:35 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po4BddwSJ1Q







Worse,

Simply disconnecting the line from the filter to the pump
means that fuel can just run out of the supply line.
Which means that air will take its place.

This wouldn't be a problem,
except the fuel pump is not self priming.

The pump is lubricated by diesel fuel,
so attempting to start the engine
could mean the pump is running dry.

Best to avoid the possibility in the first place
by promptly plugging the fuel lines.

[bundybear75]

I think the filter location change was mid to late 2012. Mine is under the bonnet (12/12 model). Changed today along with air oil and transmission. 302,500 km and counting

[cobrin]

Cobrin's 'How To' 2009 MB Fuel filter replacement.


!. Clamp fuel supply line
2. Drain filter housing
3. Remove filter housing
4. Remove filter and seal

5. Replace seal and filter
6. Fit filter housing and remove clamp from supply line


7. Use a large Jar with steel lid, a suitable sized vacuum hose and a shop vacuum to pull fuel from the tank through the system all the way to the fuel return line. When all air bubbles stop flowing, connect the fuel line back and start the engine.


8. Return fuel from the jar back to the tank using the supplied adaptor.


Suitable Jar $6
Suitable hose 50cm $5 or less
Shop vac $30 back when or use an old one


I used to use a bike pump hose on the supply line schrader valve, but it's quicker to do it from one point rather than a couple so the end of the line suits me (before it goes back to the tank).