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22-05-2017, 05:50 PM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
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This was a good read:
http://mondeoclub.ru/forum/topic/143732/ Some highlights: Don't use Chinese sockets Consider using the starter motor (I used a) 1.2m lever from the side (no hoist) Problem with extensions they flex (I) rounded the head of the bolt etc |
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22-05-2017, 11:05 PM | #2 | ||
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do a lic. plate globe next
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Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
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23-05-2017, 01:51 PM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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I see it a possible issue without hoist.
For now I'm thinking 3/4" diameter extension from the side, but we'll see. I think three members of this forum are looking at DIY timing belt change. Any info and experience removing the bolt appreciated. |
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24-05-2017, 02:30 PM | #4 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-G9208 using Tapatalk
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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24-05-2017, 06:15 PM | #5 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Goulburn NSW
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2012 MC Mondeo LX TDCi Wagon - Highway Hack 392K km and counting - Now gone 😢 2008 Peugeot 308 HDi - Highway Hack II 2008 Citroen C4 HDi - Highway Hack III 2010 Peugeot 308 HDi SW - Shaggin Wagon II 2016 VDJ200R Landcruiser GX Wagon - TTD V8 Power ! 2017 Toyota RAV4 GX Wagon - Shopping trolley - Gone 2022 Volvo XC40 T4 Inscription - Shopping trolley II 2002 BMW R1150GS |
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24-05-2017, 06:29 PM | #6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,266
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I've become a bit of a convert to proper ring spanners in the last couple of years. Sockets really aren't the best tool for exerting serious force on a bolt. - it's too easy for the socket to slip when using a power bar (and a length of pipe).
Sounds like a job for an impact wrench if there was enough space.
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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24-05-2017, 06:42 PM | #7 | ||
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Location: Goulburn NSW
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https://www.ebay.com.au/p/?iid=15255...D1218338899863
http://www.sptools.com/en/product-li...oval-tool.html Straight from the horses mouth - what my mate the Mechanic used when he used to work at Ford (Edit added link to SP tools site)
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2012 MC Mondeo LX TDCi Wagon - Highway Hack 392K km and counting - Now gone 😢 2008 Peugeot 308 HDi - Highway Hack II 2008 Citroen C4 HDi - Highway Hack III 2010 Peugeot 308 HDi SW - Shaggin Wagon II 2016 VDJ200R Landcruiser GX Wagon - TTD V8 Power ! 2017 Toyota RAV4 GX Wagon - Shopping trolley - Gone 2022 Volvo XC40 T4 Inscription - Shopping trolley II 2002 BMW R1150GS |
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24-05-2017, 08:54 PM | #8 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Quote:
From Ford workshop repair manual: [Do not use power tools to remove the bolt] (with a picture of a rattle gun with red cross). Unfortunately they didn't say why, as usual. [Heat the bolt if required (pic of hot air gun) for 4 min +1 min if not successful] (then what?). [Make sure the rubber is not damaged] (what rubber?). Then there's 70Nm plus a further 60 degrees turn when installing new bolt, may need some serious leverage. Just talk, trying to convince myself I can do it, or not, having never seen one before. Maybe 6 months to go. |
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25-05-2017, 08:29 AM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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25-05-2017, 09:32 AM | #10 | |||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,488
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Quote:
T&E Tools also have one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-2-Drive...QAAOSwYvFZH-Jz I have also seen the Sidchrome/Private Brand/ABW ones go cheap on Grays online auctions where the have been flogging off, and are still flogging off, a lot of ABW and Sidchrome stuff over the last 12 months.
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 25-05-2017 at 09:43 AM. |
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31-05-2017, 01:06 AM | #11 | ||
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ha ha ha don't use a rattle gun, but here, put this on the end of it and give it a whack with a 4lb hammer till it comes off?!?!?
I'll stick with a rattle gun me thinks.
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Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
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31-05-2017, 01:30 AM | #12 | ||||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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Quote:
As they say here http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/P...oval-Tool.aspx Quote:
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 31-05-2017 at 01:48 AM. |
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31-05-2017, 01:51 AM | #13 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
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But it's nice to know if the need arises that you can buy very expensive Beryllium Copper Alloy spark proof slogging/flogging/Striking ring spanners to beat into submission http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spark-Pro...OpKNPkjokO3zxw as well as expensive extra large chrome ones http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KC-Tools-...oAAOSw9GhYftxJ I expect they are meant for the oil and gas extraction industry (oil wells etc) but I might sell the house and buy a set for the shed.
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 31-05-2017 at 01:59 AM. |
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31-05-2017, 09:14 AM | #14 | |||
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Quote:
that is one benefit I see with a powerbar, a good example for it's usage is the Subaru WRX.
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Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
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01-10-2017, 11:26 PM | #15 | ||
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you know what, that day was today....and there's no way I'd get a power bar impact wrench to do the job on the Mondeo now.
It's heavily loctited and the last thing I wanted were shock loads/chattering through the crank, cam, flywheel pin, flywheel ring gear lock and associated items. If you're doing the timing belt or need the crankpulley removed get a Diesel Setting Kit. Made the job easy with a simple breaker bar, well till you're clear of the loctite. It's freakishly (surprisingly) easy to turn the crank and if that happens without you knowing bye bye engine, she'll lunch itself.
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Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
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31-05-2020, 10:45 PM | #16 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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Location: Bibra Lake WA
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Nice new video today from Alan Howatt on Cambelt Replacement Ford Mondeo Mk5 2L Diesel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toKv2yUoU6Y Follow on from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACXiKbkXhvM
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 31-05-2020 at 11:07 PM. |
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31-05-2020, 11:30 PM | #17 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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Location: Bibra Lake WA
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regards Blue |
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01-06-2020, 02:00 AM | #18 | |||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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Quote:
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regards Blue |
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01-06-2020, 05:57 PM | #19 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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That video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toKv2yUoU6Y linked above would be a great help for anyone doing one for the first time. Fortunately or unfortunately the DIYer would probably only get to do it once, as it's a 10 yearish affair. I did two because we have two 2011 MCs. Being retired I had plenty of time. I think I spent three days on each. Here are a couple of things I did (apart from angst), maybe of interest: 1. I changed the waterpump, idler, tensioner and crankshaft oil seal.. I don't think the Ford scheduled service includes the waterpump or seal. I bought an aftermarket waterpump but eventually found the Ford more to my liking, mainly because the seal and general quality looked better. 2. I couldn't see the pointer on the tensioner without a mirror. I finished up using a webcam. 3. I didn't use a rattle gun because I was afraid that it might damage something, since the manual indicated NO RATTLE GUN. I used heat and a 3' lever on 3/4 extension bar. I supported the extension on a jackstand at the elbow as it were. 4. When installing the new belt I rotated the crank sprocket so the key was touching the right hand side of the groove. When the tensioner was released and while adjusting the pointer, tension was equalized on both sides of the crankshaft and the key finished up in the middle of the keyway. 4. I replaced the crankshaft bolt with a new one, as is suggested in the Ford manual. I cleaned the old bolt of threadlock, ground off half the diameter for a half inch at the end and used it with compressed ar to clean out the threadlock remaining in the crank, which wass very enthusiastically applied, as Alan Howatt found. All the best - rondeo. |
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