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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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14-09-2020, 02:35 PM | #1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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I have been starting to think about cleaning and deodorising the a/c evaporator on my 2008 RTV.
A YouTube video showed injection of a dedicated foam product to do this and it seemed to be successful. The guy put a tube up the ac condensate pipe to squirt this foam product. So, I started looking underneath the RTV for anything that looked like an a/c condensate pipe. No success. So I put the a/c on full, waited a bit and then looked underneath. Sure enough water was dripping steadily out, actually from around the exhaust pipe. Itwas much further back than I expected though. Further back than the protection plate, so it wasn’t running down that. I reckon the point it was dripping would be in line with the rear of the seats. Right now I’m not sure whether this is ac condensate, engine condensate or what. And why is it dripping so far back? Any ideas? Cheers..Chunka |
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14-09-2020, 03:27 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 7,752
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sounds like it is in the chassis tube and is running back from there, I thought they were on the firewall
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I reserve the right to arm bears
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14-09-2020, 07:39 PM | #3 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,532
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Look above the gearbox...literally.
Thats the hole. |
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14-09-2020, 11:34 PM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,315
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Been a while since I have looked at the BA /BF / Territory air box. Yes the water drip is above the gearbox, but I would have thought you would have better access to the AC evaporator by flipping out the glovebox, and pulling out the air filter, or lifting out the fan motor, and spraying towards the centre of the car where the AC evaporator sits.
Cheers, |
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15-09-2020, 08:47 AM | #5 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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Thanks, they give me some avenues of attack.
Incidentally I have emptied 3/4 of a can of Glen 20 already both inside the cab with ac on recirc and also from outside into the inlet vent. Made a huge difference to the smelll, reducing it considerably. (Previous owner was a big smoker). But I would like to try and clean the Ac evaporator . There’s got to be a lot of crud in there. |
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15-09-2020, 09:00 AM | #6 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,352
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Start at the source. Remove wiper arms and scuttle trim, then wiper motor assembly. Wash out scuttle thoroughly.
While scuttle is still open, remove the glovebox, debris filter mesh panel and blower motor. You will find several hours of cleaning with wet cloths and a light dilution of antiseptic household detergent now possible in this exposed area, but commence with a good vacuuming. |
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22-09-2020, 05:07 PM | #7 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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Thanks Citroenbender,
I carried that out today, that is removing the wipers, scuttle, glovebox, cabin filter. And cleaned it. My next goal is to get access to the evaporator coils so I can apply a detergent foam to clean them via an application tube. One option is to come in from the front under the windscreen into the vent. This brings the tube to the top of the blower rotor. A question. Is the blower waterproof from rain etc coming from the outside vents? Surely it must be? I am trying to avoid getting underneath, finding the ac evaporator drain hole and having to insert the tube into it. |
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22-09-2020, 05:25 PM | #8 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,352
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There’s an upturned lip in the scuttle pressing, from memory, and as you would have seen the intake is blinded from direct (forward oncoming) air flow; it is buffeted sideways.
The fan is easy to remove, take it out and be horrified at what colour the white blades have become. With that out and the recirc door propped open (if the operating rod can be released) you have modest visibility towards the evaporator core. I think there is further a small lip around the blower opening, such that water getting in that far is directed towards the evaporator bottom, where it would eventually drain out the HVAC’s central rubber spigot. |
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22-09-2020, 06:38 PM | #9 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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Thanks Citroenbender,
I’ll give removing the blower a go. Re the recirc door operating rod, would it normally be able to be released? |
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22-09-2020, 07:31 PM | #10 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,352
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It may be possible; I had the dash out so it was easy. If you can unclip it at the HIM end then you’re sorted.
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22-09-2020, 08:03 PM | #11 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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Could I put the key in the ignition and open the recirc door by pressing the button?
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22-09-2020, 08:06 PM | #12 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,352
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With the engine running, definitely. But with the fan disconnected I’m not so sure.
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22-09-2020, 08:28 PM | #13 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,017
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Quote:
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22-09-2020, 10:06 PM | #14 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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Yes the smell is gradually reducing thank goodness.
On another matter I have discovered one inlet manifold bolt (front of front lifting lug) is sheared off and the next one (Rear of front lifting lug) was loose. Lifting point was therefore rattling around, which is how I discovered the problem. Is there a history of inlet manifold bolt issues with these engines? 2008 Barra BF lpg RTV ute |
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22-09-2020, 11:30 PM | #15 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,532
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I have had some loosen a bit over time...not shear off.
Also had a stinky smokers car...it goes away eventually but the first blast of a/c is usually best avoided. I hate Xmas trees and artificial stinky smells but that car I emptied a few spray bottles into. Even a blow out of compressed air through the filter hole will get a lot of crap/dust out of the evap area. |
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23-09-2020, 08:05 AM | #16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,127
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28-09-2020, 08:48 PM | #17 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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I had a look at the blower today with a view to removing it. Glovebox door removed, electrical connector disconnected. I assume then that it’s a question of removing the 3 Philips head mounting screws at 120 deg on the blower and it will drop down with no need to remove dash?
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28-09-2020, 09:04 PM | #18 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,352
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That’s basically it.
Don’t try to power it up un-mounted, blower motors have a lot of torque and will often flip about the place while smashing themselves up. |
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28-09-2020, 09:39 PM | #19 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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Thanks for the tip !
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28-09-2020, 09:54 PM | #20 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,386
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This stuff can often kill the smell: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...1g/342508.html or https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...ml/166509.html
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regards Blue |
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29-09-2020, 07:28 PM | #21 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,532
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It may not "drop" out and needs some wiggling to get past the dash plastics but the 3 screws is all you remove.
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30-09-2020, 04:49 PM | #22 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 29
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I got the blower out. It was pretty easy. Clean also because I had given it a foam treatment shortly before. Plenty of muddy brown liquid came out of the drain.
The blower rotor though didn’t spin as freely as I would have liked. Not stiff but not completely free running either. I tried to get the rotor off the rusty shaft in the hole I could get access to the bearings but no luck I’m afraid. Any thoughts? |
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