Focus LT TDCI Maintenance Work

Bainos · 10-04-2020, 03:24 PM

Hi all,

Picked up a secondhand Focus LT TDCI 6spd hatch at the start of the year as a cheap daily. Thoroughly enjoyed the car so far and gave it a basic oil and filter change around a month ago. However upon driving the car home from work yesterday the clutch pedal when depressed would remain flat to the floor and only return back up the tiniest amount (luckily enough to engage the clutch for changing gears to get me home).

Upon checking the car today, the problem remains and the pedal now no longer returns at all meaning it is undrivable. I suspect that is is due to a failed clutch slave cylinder (located inside the gearbox) as a new pool of fluid has appeared on the floor underneath the bell housing.. open to new suggestions of what else it could be however I am fairly confident this is the issue.

This brings me to the reason for my post I am trying to find where to source an OEM quality clutch kit with a new flywheel and slave cylinder included for as cheaply as possible, best to do both clutch and FW for piece of mind. I suspect that there is probably brake fluid on the existing clutch and it will need replacing, not to mention i am fairly sure it is the original 193K km clutch + flywheel still in the car.

The car is at 193K kms and is nearly due for its 200K km timing belt job, is it also worthwhile me just pulling the engine+gearbox and doing this at the same time or is it not worth removing the engine for this and just doing both jobs with the engine in the car and just removing the gearbox? Can a link also be provided to an OEM quality timing belt kit with water pump and WP gasket, again as cheap as possible.

Thanks in advance.

kevino · 11-04-2020, 06:41 AM

I had a 2009 LT diesel manual which I ran to 278000 and sold it.
I replaced the timing belt water pump and tensioner at 200k via a Peugeot independent mechanic. Bear in mind this is the same motor as Peugeot 2 litre diesels of the same vintage.
I would say definitely fix the whole shebang and maybe engine mounts as well. My clutch lasted the whole 278000 kms and was still good but mainly freeway driving.

They are a fantastic car economical and really torquey. Definitely worth fixing especially if you can do it yourself.

kevino · 11-04-2020, 06:42 AM

Correction 2008 LT.

RadioactiveX · 11-04-2020, 03:53 PM

This is the link to the kit that I used when the timing belt was replaced on my 2011 Focus LV TDCi. This kit includes the timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, and shaft oil seals. DIY was alright, it was pretty hard to remove the crank pulley bolt even with a power tool. Had to remove the starter motor to lock the flywheel from turning.

marg99 · 11-04-2020, 05:08 PM

you may be lucky using a rattle gun on the crank pulley bolt

Franco Cozzo · 16-04-2020, 10:08 PM

If you're still looking for a clutch kit with flywheel try Highway Clutch & Brake in Campbellfield here in VIC.

https://www.highwayclutch.com.au/contact

Oldskool setup but know their ****, can supply the clutch slave too.

Bainos · 17-04-2020, 03:46 PM

Ended up sourcing a full OEM clutch kit locally here in Adelaide from Autobarn who are a reseller for Australian Clutch Services (also located in Adelaide), cost was approx $1360 which included a DMFW and new bolts, Clutch Plate, Pressure Plate and a Slave Cylinder.

I have the gearbox and old clutch kit out, just need to get the new one back in, hopefully this weekend.

Another problem I have is that I unplugged the clutch fluid pipe that goes from the master cylinder to the fluid reservoir and in the process damaged one of the ends clips so that it no longer locks in place, So I need a replacement, the part number is 3M51-7T504-BE, which i think has been superseded by 3M51-7T504-BF so either should be fine. Hoping I can fine one at a wreckers locally and replace it.

Wish me luck, I am also in the process of doing the heater core replacement as well so that should be interesting... Once both the clutch and heater core are completed I will tackle the timing belt job.

Bainos · 22-05-2020, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RadioactiveX

This is the link to the kit that I used when the timing belt was replaced on my 2011 Focus LV TDCi. This kit includes the timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, and shaft oil seals. DIY was alright, it was pretty hard to remove the crank pulley bolt even with a power tool. Had to remove the starter motor to lock the flywheel from turning.

That looks to be the same part number I came upon for a timing belt kit myself so it checks out. Good price too, ill likely end up getting this. Did you replace the water pump gasket and if so what is the part number and where did you get it from as it seems to be the missing part from the kit? Also looking for the timing setting tools anyone have a link for these?

In regards to the clutch slave replacement, I got it all in and back together with around 1000kms on everything now, seems to be going well. Ended up find that clutch hose in great condition for a couple $ on a wreck at a local UPullIt. I also tackled the heater core replacement at the same time as it was in need of replacement. Lengthy process but not too difficult besides separating the core outlets at the firewall from the plastic connectors that join the rubber hoses to them in the engine bay, they had become fused together and only after quite a lengthy struggle with them I managed to free them.

I also tackled the heater core replacement

RadioactiveX · 24-05-2020, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bainos

That looks to be the same part number I came upon for a timing belt kit myself so it checks out. Good price too, ill likely end up getting this. Did you replace the water pump gasket and if so what is the part number and where did you get it from as it seems to be the missing part from the kit? Also looking for the timing setting tools anyone have a link for these?

In regards to the clutch slave replacement, I got it all in and back together with around 1000kms on everything now, seems to be going well. Ended up find that clutch hose in great condition for a couple $ on a wreck at a local UPullIt. I also tackled the heater core replacement at the same time as it was in need of replacement. Lengthy process but not too difficult besides separating the core outlets at the firewall from the plastic connectors that join the rubber hoses to them in the engine bay, they had become fused together and only after quite a lengthy struggle with them I managed to free them.

I also tackled the heater core replacement

I can't remember if this kit included a gasket for the water pump. But all I know is I didn't have to buy one. We did used a gasket sealant.
As for the timing tools, we didn't used the proper ones. We used a bent 8mm rod to lock the flywheel and time the crankshaft. An 8mm bolt to time the camshaft sprocket.

We followed a thorough video on you tube in this link

And I also made a written version of the instructions, with a list of all the parts and tools that you are gonna need. Link here. You can print it as reference.

Bainos · 25-05-2020, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RadioactiveX

I can't remember if this kit included a gasket for the water pump. But all I know is I didn't have to buy one. We did used a gasket sealant.
As for the timing tools, we didn't used the proper ones. We used a bent 8mm rod to lock the flywheel and time the crankshaft. An 8mm bolt to time the camshaft sprocket.

We followed a thorough video on you tube in this link

And I also made a written version of the instructions, with a list of all the parts and tools that you are gonna need. Link here. You can print it as reference.

Thanks for those links, both look like they will be very useful when it comes time to do the timing belt job. I will need to see if I can get a water pump gasket elsewhere if its not in that kit as i'm not particularly fond of using sealants in places of gaskets.

Regarding my heater core, I have replaced the core and connected it all back up as it was originally however I still have no heat coming out when i have my heater running.. Is there anything that could cause this? I have heat cycled the car a couple times to allow it to get up to temp and the coolant feed hoses feel hot to the touch as if water has been passing through them into the core so im unsure why its still blowing cold air..

Does the orientation in which the water hoses are connected in the engine bay at the firewall to the two heater core pipes matter? I.e. does it matter if the water is going into the core in the top or bottom pipe or should this make no difference? I wasn't sure which one should be going into the top or bottom because when I got the car the heater core had already been bypassed so i never saw the original orientation.

Freddy121 · 28-09-2020, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RadioactiveX

And I also made a written version of the instructions, with a list of all the parts and tools that you are gonna need. Link here. You can print it as reference.

Hi RadioactiveX,

Thanks for your document, reading it, and would like to attempt it,
did you end up replacing the oil seals?
I did not see it in the instructions.

Freddy121

prydey · 18-10-2020, 10:44 AM

Bainos - what was the clutch plate like for wear when you pulled it out? I note another poster mentioned they got nearly 280k out of their clutch.

I have a LS with a suspected leaking slave (LS clutch issue thread). It just shudders slightly on the first couple of gear changes for the day, then is fine. My car only has 140k on it and was just thinking I could try to save a few bucks and just replace the slave cylinder if the rest of the clutch assembly was ok.

Any idea on cost just for the slave?