Any recommended Perth mechanics?

[Jimmeh]

Hey guys

I'm wondering if anyone from Perth can recommend some decent mechanics.

The reason I ask is because I can never get consistant and proper work done on my car. The main offenders being the big repair chains.

I'm sure some of you can relate!

Any mechanic who does a quality and detailed job (preferably not a chain) I'd like to hear about... maybe we can get some quality mechanic list going for everyone?



Cheers

Jim

[asusdragon]

i have tried a few to no avail, with one ended uop costed me an extra $2000 coz he stuff the lifter up and said it was the block and well its a long story, so if anyone can find a good one NOR my BA needs to go in for a minor service soon and i would do it myself but flat out at work for quite some time

[satria]

Ierace Automotives in maddington!!!!!

could not recommend them highly enough! i drive roughly 45 mins just to service my car, they are worth the trip for me!

the only people i can honestly trust with my car, and a MASSIVE workshop that doesn't have a spec of dust in it... i could go on forever but yeah if you love your car you'd send it to them for sure!

[asusdragon]

mmhh might be worth the trip then if you recomment them that much got a number for them or a good contant there

[TwistedEL]

Auto masters in Maddington do a good job too, obviously a franchise tho.

[jaydee]

Abe SCHNEIDER in Dianella. If you're into BMX, Abe is or was the president of the BMX club, his son Michael is a top bloke and great mechanic who's into Mustangs and Harleys.
Even though the workshop looks old they have all the gear and once again don't rip you off. 92710610 and they have a mobile service.

My father in law put me onto them years ago and they have helped me out of a spot heaps of times from vehicle inspections pre purchase to lending me a specialist tool.

[bf tubs]

Originally Posted by satria

Ierace Automotives in maddington!!!!!

could not recommend them highly enough! i drive roughly 45 mins just to service my car, they are worth the trip for me!

the only people i can honestly trust with my car, and a MASSIVE workshop that doesn't have a spec of dust in it... i could go on forever but yeah if you love your car you'd send it to them for sure!

agreed that place looks like a surgery and he knows his fords too

[ntguy]

Very old post, bringing the past.

However can anyone give update on mechanics know there way around Barra Engines etc. Have got a car that has been to several mechanics, who have replaced a lot of things and still cant fix it.

BF2 Rough Idle, worse when cold, but still rough when warm.

Has had the following replaced to track it down.
Coils
Plugs
Exhaust
Full Injector Carbon Clean
Manifold Carbon Clean

O2 not been replaced
No Codes when scanned.
Seems to drive OK

Car has done 150k`s

[happy1]

Hi,
You mentioned you have replaced a LOT of things, and been to several mechanics.

The 'carbon clean' you have done was probably just a waste of your money.

Other than that I feel you have not replaced everything that could be related to rough idle.

Any vacuum leak somewhere will give rough idle, for example a small leak via the brake booster, or some other little vacuum tube / hose that could have a split in it.

The intake gasket could be leaking. You or your mechanic can spray 'Start Ya Bastard' around the intake while the engine is running. If it revs up then that is the gas being sucked into the manifold.

The O2 sensor is one of the things to just replace. It may have a coating of debris on it, or so it doesn't measure properly. An aftermarket one shouldn't cost that much. Make sure the exhaust manifold gaskets are good, so it doesn't leak oxygen into the exhaust upstream of O2 sensor.

The throttle body has the job of regulating more/less, and when it is getting that old it could be sticky, or be worn. Get another one second hand, and see if it makes any difference.

Run a compression test. Your engine could have a sticky valve or seized piston ring resulting in low compression on one or more cylinders. Obviously at idle this will be more noticeable, so even if it runs good during normal driving, this could still be the reason for idle issues.

Plugs and coils are not always perfect. A batch of coils may not be good, and a plug can become faulty just by being flooded once. However poor spark should be more noticeable under hard load, but also at cold start.

One or more of the fuel injectors could have a poor spray pattern. The only way to figure out is to pull them out, and send them to someone that does flow testing and can check the spray pattern in a test bench. It doesn't cost that much to have them cleaned and checked.

Probably other hypothetical reasons for poor idle also, for example if the timing chain is worn / stretched, nor tight, or one of the variable cam pullyeys have gotten stuck in advanced position, but that is probably less likely.

Hopefully you find out what's wrong with it.
Cheers,

[bungarra]

TT Automotive and AME, both in Canning Vale

[ntguy]

Cheers,

Got sick of it.

On to another project.....


Have a 2009 FG XR6, 220k kms. NA. Factory ZF

I have a Complete FG Turbo Engine and Trans. With engine loom etc.

Two Questions,
what sort of dollars should it cost to do engine swap, installer cooler etc.
I am in Perth, but travelling to Adelaide in about three weeks. Ideally would like to do conversion before I go. But are there better options in Adelaide?

Would TT and AME be good? Or there other options out there.

Also

what sort time do a job like this? Two or Three Days?

whats a NA FG engine and ZF worth with 220kms providing a video etc for current engine. It just had service, new oil etc etc. Belts and Thermostat changed last year

[happy1]

I have previously asked BPT Motorsports (Wangara) about doing swap jobs, and the swap duration was well within a week of work, most of it done in a couple of days, but depends if you are missing some of the parts, if the workshop is doing other parts such as fuel pump and exhaust, intercooler etc,

The benefit with BPT would be that they have done lots of Barra swaps before. Someone else said get a detailed quote in writing before any work, so that it doesn't run up extra unexpected costs.

There are several posts discussing NA to Turbo swaps, and the conclusion is always it isn't economical unless you have a full donor car and does DIY, even then there is a lot of differences between a N/A and Turbo Falcon, such as the larger diff and larger brakes.

[ntguy]

Cheers.

Factory FG Turbo cars are selling for a lot of money.

I have asked few locals companies. Some are talking 6k plus. Lowest is about 4k.

I pretty much have everything for exhaust. So going to put it on the back burner for a while maybe.

I have complete FG Turbo Engine with PCM and ZF Trans. So maybe being naïve but thought, it is not much different as engine change over like for like. Yes there is some difference, intercooler, piping and PCM etc. But didnt think this would add more than maybe 1/2 to 1 day.

Brakes and Diff could be done a later date. Maybe not best option, but it would start.

[happy1]

Originally Posted by ntguy

Cheers.

Factory FG Turbo cars are selling for a lot of money.

Yes they do, and they are the real thing also, so your half built conversion will always be worth maybe 5k less, and it will need an engineering check and inspection by DOT.

If the labor is 5- 6k just to get the engine in and running, then there will be another 3k or more to swap the rear diff, brakes, exhaust etc.

The value of your Turbo engine and trans could be almost 5k, and the N/A engine & trans you remove will be worth about 1k, depending on mileage.

So with the value difference, parts and labor, inspection fees etc, can't see how this is viable for you.

Cheers,

[ntguy]

So if I spend about 10k or 12k, including car. I should be around break even point.

If I could find a reasonable turbo car, low kms (less than 200kms), not modded for around the 12 to 15k mark. Then that would be the best choice.

It also depends I guess if I want to sell the car and if so how much I am willing to lose. Most people lose on selling cars. Look at the 4wd market, people spend thousands on accessories, most time not getting it back.

I have a FG Turbo engine and ZF Trans, PCM with 40K kms or so. There are few small things missing and probably hardest to get. Like the wiring for the wastegate, factory BOV, oil and cooler lines for Turbo.

I have a 2009 XR6 with ZF that is in good original condition.

Other option I guess is just use existing engine and swap over manifolds etc.

Time will tell. I would prefer a factory turbo, but as mentioned getting one for a reasonable priced and not modded to much is a Unicorn in todays market. I already have a car, so it would require me to sell it, then find a Factory Turbo.

[BENT_8]

Not in WA, but finding a decent mechanic anywhere thats not booked up for weeks in advance is almost impossible these days.
Im in SA and have been using my mechanic for the best part of 30yrs, unfortunately they're getting on now and would rather change oil and filters than do much labour intensive work so ive been on the hunt for someone decent.
Found a great diesel mechanic, but so has everyone else so its weeks wait for a book in.

My Pajero has recently developed a clunk in the right rear suspension, jacked it up last thursday for a look and the right hand trailing arm bushes are flogged out, quite a common thing im told and generally the cause of rear end noise.
The Paj has done 300k's so not surprising that rubbers are giving up.
So i make the mistake of giving those suspension specialists a look, $28 later and to my surprise the list wasnt too bad, included what i thought to be the culprit along with a couple of other things but was advised to do everything but what i wanted done after wasting almost 2hrs of my time.
On to the next place...

Next guy kneels on the ground, looks everywhere except where the arm bushes are and says yep, all worn out.
Yeah, nah, i did more than that.
On to the next place..

We'll put it on the hoist for $40, huh, do i have to pay that if you do the job, yep, unless we book it in to do the job and diagnose it at the same time, and when can you do that, next week.
On to the next place..

Chuck it up on the hoist boys, says the manager..
Whats this, progress
Yeah, 4 bushes flogged out, front ones press in to the body, rears are in the arms, big job..
Umm, no thats not right, fronts are in the arms, rears are in the knuckle, arms are 2 bolts, rears can be done in situ.
How much i ask, despite very little confidence.
Give me your number and i'll call you when ive worked it out.
On to the next place..

Sorry mate, we can look at it Thursday but cant fix till next week...

So after all that i can honestly say ive been beaten into submission and have lost all interest.
Its 4 bolts and a few bushes ffs, not an engine rebuild.

I remember a time when you could walk into a shop and get a confidence inspiring quote in under an hour as theyd find time, not now.