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#241 | ||||
Regular...with metamusal
![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Geeeloong
Posts: 6,389
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Quote:
awesome! .... bought those brackets ages ago, but thought i might have to change uprights. it's for a BA. also bought the bigger brakes for the wog mobile [has same brackets] . . . . . ![]() Quote:
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#242 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 670
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Quote:
Pads are the same whether its 298 or 322. Even the AU2 front lines can work if you have an AU2, ive made them work but cant remember exactly what I did, I think I mightve milled some off the side of the block where it bolts to the caliper to get the orientation right. BA lines/hoses will go straight on though and dont need mods... but they do have a little mounting bracket that slips under the caliper mounting bolt head... you will need those with BA lines. BA lines clip into that bracket whereas AU2's clip onto the strut/shock assembly. Here is a pair of BA calipers on ebay, the 4th pic shows the little brackets with the open ended C shape, they live under the mounting bolts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284378854532 https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/y3QAA...hS/s-l1600.jpg |
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#243 | |||
Afterburner + skids =
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Skidsville
Posts: 12,118
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Speed Kills. So buy an AU XR8 and live forever. Oo\===/oO |
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#244 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tweed Heads
Posts: 404
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With the rotors am i just looking for the terry 328 style rotors or do i need something different to suit the handbrake setup or do they run they same. And assume any falcon 322 rotor from that period will suit fronts?
Ben
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2001 AU2 220 XR8 - Build thread |
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#245 | ||
Afterburner + skids =
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Skidsville
Posts: 12,118
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They are the same mate. And yes, any Falcon rotor will fit.
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Speed Kills. So buy an AU XR8 and live forever. Oo\===/oO |
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#246 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tweed Heads
Posts: 404
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Cheers everyone. Have almost everything on order.
Waiting to hear back from RBS on lines. With the 3mm spacers anyone know the details I should be trying to match ie inside/ outside diameter? Cheers
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2001 AU2 220 XR8 - Build thread |
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#247 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tweed Heads
Posts: 404
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Bit of an update.
Regarding the lines spoke with Matt at Race Brakes Sydney who is great to deal with. Issue is with the rears unfortunately they cant do my rear lines as there are a few setups and mine is the one they dont have the fittings for, he suggested brakequip might be able to do them. As brakequip are a franchise and after some digging will most likely need either the lines or car. So I am looking at getting RBS to sort out the fronts for me so I can put them on when I do the calipers. And from what I have read I can make my current rears just work with the terry calipers so I can get my car to one of these shops to make up the rears.
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2001 AU2 220 XR8 - Build thread |
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#248 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 670
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Quote:
The rears if I remember right were the same deal as what i said about the front AU lines earlier, i milled some material off one corner of the block that bolts to the caliper so i could turn/orientate the block and line correctly as it comes off the caliper. Because the notch in the terry caliper around where the brake line bolt lives is a bit different to the AU. I havent read the entire thread so I dont know what others have said or done regarding using the stock AU rear brake hoses on the terry calipers, but I took some metal off the side of the block to get them sitting how i felt was right. I just did it with a bench grinder (removed rubber line from car first obviously) and cleaned it all up afterwards etc. before refitting. Flushed and bled the brakes well, rock hard pedal was the result and no problems. Would be even better with new SS lines of course. |
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#249 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 670
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So I did some work on someones 99 AU Fairlane recently, september 99 build series 1.
Owner wanted to upgrade to AU2 master cylinder and booster and eventually the 322mm/328mm deal. Did the MC and booster first, series 2 stuff... bolted in a series 2 pedal box and redrilled firewall using the 4 pedal box holes as a guide. The pedal boxes are the same except the series 2 box has the 4 holes versus the 2 for series 1, and none of the holes are in the same place...so I figure its easier to bolt the series 2 pedal box in and then drilling the holes in the correct place is much easier. I was able to drill all 4 of them from the interior side after punching the centre using the series 2 pedal box holes as a guide. I had read that Ford changed the shape of the firewall where it meets the cowl panel slightly on series 2, and series 2 stuff didnt sit flat on a series 1 firewall due to interference where the firewall meets the cowl panel (join was lower on series 1s and hits the series 2 booster) , and some minor panel beating could rectify that. then someone somewhere said a Feb 2000 series 1 had the updated shape and the booster went straight in no probs. Well on this september 99 car same thing, just drilled the 4 holes the series 2 booster needed and no interference, its sitting flat and vertical on the firewall. So i bled the brakes with the series 2 master and booster and the car stops much better even with the series 1 front brakes still on it. (rears are the same caliper piston between 1 and 2 essentially, discs just thinner on the 1) So this is the other way around to what some have done where they install series 2 brakes and leave the series 1 booster and master cylinder. The series 1 booster is plastic and ive found it to flex a great deal, not very good. This car will get the bigger brakes eventually but i found it interesting that the series 2 stuff with its steel booster that doesnt flex and the bigger bore MC resulted in greatly improved braking. Im not sure there is much talk of fitting the series 2 booster and MC in this thread without needing wedge plates and the like, and doing this with the series 1 brakes still in place, hence my post and bump here for improving these old rides without too many dramas lol. |
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#250 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
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Sweet!! Thanks for the info, mate, that's a big help as I was wondering what I was going to do. I just checked my series 1 project and its an Oct 99 build! Will now do the same MC/Booster upgrade and add a 322/328 setup off a BF turbo. Cheers..
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#251 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wollongong
Posts: 3,111
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if i was doing it again i'd go the S2 booster just for the daily driving and using light brake pressure.
i found the S1 booster on 322/328 brakes didn't make the brakes worse but it needed more foot pressure, still worked great on the track though just not ideal on the road for lazy driving i also put my old S1 brakes on the S2 doner car and that was almost undrivable, the brakes were extremely touchy as it was over boosted but it can be done
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CURRENT RIDES BA GT Mk1 #0009 - Narooma Blue SY Ghia AWD Black VZ LX8 Adventra Holden HX 50th Anniversary AU Saloon Car racecar 1980 GS1000ST - Wes Cooley Rep
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#252 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 670
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So you put S1 brakes on a S2 car with the S2 booster and MC? I didnt find this car to be too touchy actually, I drove it a fair bit. It suprised me and the owner actually as to how much better it pulled up, and it wasnt just the initial feel with less foot pressure applied ..(which is better with the S2 booster as you said). I did a few hard emergency braking stops even from high speeds... it did have ABS though so couldnt lock the brakes if i tried. but i guess adding more pressure to existing calipers is nothing new... hydroboost conversions are another example where that applies. Unrelated but has anyone tried those new protex brand MC's ? Lots of them all over fleabay and theyre available from auto stores. I tried a new one on my own Fairlane and could not get it to work.. ended up returning it. The brake pedal would lock up halfway through its movement and couldnt get fluid out of the calipers. And im not inexperienced at bleeding brakes, I was a tech at a dealership even once upon. Tried everything including of course bench bleeding it first.. something was off about it inside, and i didnt care to spend the time to pull it apart and compare to an OEM pbr master cylinder. ![]() |
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