200kw AU Xr8 Chewin the Juice

[Caprobbo]

That should be ecu going into closed loop the trims go up

[auIILTD]

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

Hi all
Can someone who has experience with these AU injected Windsor's have a look and give me an opinion

Happy to prpvide some feedback in some areas that I hope can help.

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

I've noticed the 02s seem to be uneven, they have done 2000k only
Took them out they were a bit sooty as expected

The factory tune is notoriously rich. Your plugs would also be pretty black.

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

When the ECU is in open loop on cold starting the short term fuel trims start at about 18% rich and come down to about 3% till the ECU goes into open then they head straight up to 40% rich

Startup is normally O/L. The ECU will command a lot of extra fuel when the engine is cold (for about 90secs, and then progrssively leaner until the engine is at operating temp). This is the equivalent of an EFI choke. Even when the engine is warm, it will start enrichened, just not as long. Anything over 160 DegF is considered normal operating temps. Not sure what you mean by "the ECU goes into open". I can only assume that you are referring to the car going into open loop at WOT. 40% would not surprise me from a factory tune. In my own car, I have seen the factoy tune go to ~36% rich at WOT. A tuned car (NA) should only be seeing about 18% rich at wot.

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

Can someone tell me if the MAF,idle control,temp etc. are all in spec

All look normal to me.

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

last time it did this I replaced both o2s and it 95% fixed it
They are VDO brand,surely they couldn't be gone again with 2000k on them.

Your o2s look fine. I am not sure of the software that you are using, but despite the graphs looking vastly different, the values shown on the left are very similar and within spec.

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

I also capped all vacuum ports to no effect
Would a bad cam sensor cause this,Ive tried disconnecting it to no effect

All help would be appreciated
Bret.

Hope that helps. What is important if you have made any changes to your intake or exhaust, is to reset your KAMs. This may be worth doing just so your long Term Fuel Trims are cleared and can re-learn your current engine config.

Cheers
Stu

[Caprobbo]

Hi mate
I meant to say going from open loop cold to closed after 90 sec

Yea they maybe rich from the factory but not like this
did you watch the long vid?

its a Snap-on scanner

[Caprobbo]

How do I reset KAMs ?

[Caprobbo]

It drips black condensation out the pipes,that how rich it is

[crakrz]

I replied to you on your other thread you have going as well. On one of your videos, it shows one of your o2 sensors still switching high/low even when the engine is off. It should peg itself full lean after a couple of seconds. VDO brand is not what it once was, were these from an eBay seller. When it comes to o2 sensors, NTK is the ticket. Even more reliable and consistent than Bosch. And NTK were used as OEM equipment for this model anyway.
Can I ask what oil is being used in the engine. This has an effect on sensor life too. Hope you find the cure soon.

[crakrz]

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

How do I reset KAMs ?

Battery negative terminal disconnected
Turn headlight switch on
Press brake pedal for 30 secs
Turn off headlight switch
Reconnect battery.

This drains all residual current from the Keep Alive Memory of the ECU.

[Caprobbo]

Yea mate I thought that was not right,how does the o2 make current without exhaust heat.
I cant remember if the the ignition was on,maybe the internal heater was causing it or does the heater only start when the engine is running.

And yea I did get them of eBay
I always thought VDO was up there with Bosch but as you say things change.

So where do I source NTK sensors
As for the Kams I have a battery isolator switch that I turn off when the cars not being used ( its a MK 3 Capri) so I guess that would take care of the kams

I wondered if the computer doesn't like being reset all the time.

This latest rich running episode started after picking it up from the panel beater that did full body and paint

I wondered if they welded on it with the battery switch on an zapped a portion of the computer

But Im in the same camp as you suspecting the 02s again especially as soon as it goes into closed and gets input from them it starts trimming upwards
I just couldn't believe they would fail again at 2000ks and show no signs of contamination.

The oil is a 10w-30 as per the service manual,but just looking then I notice the Xr8 has a different spec same weight but different spec numbers
Any ideas why

I also notice the manual specifies one type of plug for one bank and another for the other bank,why do you think that is ?

Thanks for your help

[Caprobbo]

Hi Mate
Just ordered 2x OZA687-D2 NTK sensors from super cheap for $180
Not a bad price,lets see what happens eh.

Bret.

[XC50077]

The service plugs are qty8 all identical. Not long ago bought qty8 genuine plugs for my AU2 220 from ebay for a decent price, Part no. Motorcraft AGSF32FM [SP-432].Cheers

[Caprobbo]

yea thanks mate
I doubt there would be any difference between your 220 and my 200

[auIILTD]

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

As for the Kams I have a battery isolator switch that I turn off when the cars not being used ( its a MK 3 Capri) so I guess that would take care of the kams

I wondered if the computer doesn't like being reset all the time.

Bret, this will be dependant on the tune that you have in the car. If your tune is out (factory relies on KAMs heavily), when you disconnect power all the time, and resetting KAMs, there is no way the ECU can build a history and start compensating for the deficiencies in the tune. I have seen it regularily when you reset KAMs, the fuel economy can go through the floor. You may be stuck in that cycle due to the constant disconnection of the battery.

My suggestion is that you get it tuned and take it from there.

Cheers
Stu

[Caprobbo]

Thanks mate
Ill put the new o2s in a make a decision from there.

[falcon_bandit]

my AU windsor was using 20L/100km, but ran beautifully. Replaced & cleaned what i could, but nothing changed & i was left with pressure & leak down test as mentioned earlier in the thread. I would be heading this way. Ended up selling before i got around to it

[Caprobbo]

thanks mate ill put it on the list

[FTe342]

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

Hi Mate
Just ordered 2x OZA687-D2 NTK sensors from super cheap for $180
Not a bad price,lets see what happens eh.

Bret.

That's a bit rich. $112.99 here for 2 sensors same part number
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NTK-NGK-...kAAOSwstxVRsmI

[Caprobbo]

Put em in
No change....open loop runs perfect,fuel trim 3% positive

After 90 seconds into closed loop and off the chart the trims go

Walked away for a few days

[FTe342]

My stock 5.0 L AU II Fairlane is thirsty. 400 klms to a tank local driving just taking it easy.

Will throw a set of NTK sensors in and clean the MAF and see how it goes

[Caprobbo]

Good luck !!

[auIILTD]

Originally Posted by Caprobbo

Put em in
No change....open loop runs perfect,fuel trim 3% positive

After 90 seconds into closed loop and off the chart the trims go

Walked away for a few days

Did you reset the KAMs after putting in the new sensors? If not, all of your fuel trims will be based on the old o2 sensors. They need to be cleared.

[mcfly94]

Originally Posted by FTe342

My stock 5.0 L AU II Fairlane is thirsty. 400 klms to a tank local driving just taking it easy.

Will throw a set of NTK sensors in and clean the MAF and see how it goes

I’d say that’s about right, I’d say 450 would be the absolute max pushing the tank limit on a good running engine

[FTe342]

Originally Posted by mcfly94

I’d say that’s about right, I’d say 450 would be the absolute max pushing the tank limit on a good running engine

I thought it should do better as I reckon my 5.6 TL would match it for klms/tank. I know the sensors have never been replaced so with 225k on the odo I will shout it a set anyways. Thanks for the reset info

[Caprobbo]

Well the latest is I replaced the CPS and the forscan still says fault and CPS low (low? what that means I have no idea) but it seems to have improved the problem.
At one stage after resetting everything I could with the forscan software I actually had the fuel trims oscillating between -3.0 to + 3.0 which is perfect.

Before that I Had one O2 sensor reading 2.3 volts the other 1.3 volts and one fuel trim going up to +37 while the other sat at +7 then the +7 went up to +37 then they both sat there for a couple of seconds before both dropping together down to +4 and sitting there.
So weird I wondering if I have a bad earth somewhere or a faulty ecu
In saying that I took it for a good drive for 55 ks and then topped up the fuel and it took roughly 6.5 liters,so thats about right I think.

So the only changes since the new O2s (which made no difference) is the new CPS sensor and leaving the battery connected.
The thing that gets me is if I unplug the CPS plug the forscan says CPS OK ??
Plug it in and it says Fault.
I took the whole unit out last week With the original sensor And hooked it up to my multi meter and was getting a good pulse when i spun it with a cordless drill .

I think ill try to get it back to the -3 +3 fuel trim and leave it alone and see what happens.
When its right its not hunting at idle and smells pretty good in the exhaust so it now is capable of running correctly I've just got to keep it there.
I might do a couple more vids for you guys to look at.

I wonder If its all about turning of the battery switch after use thats causing problems.
It also has gained its lost power and smoothness again,but its a little rough it idle

Do these 200kw XR8 motors have a slight cam lope,I didn't think they did.
Bret.

[XC50077]

My experience is they need a few hundred klm to re learn the Kams and they continue to improve over several weeks. My 220 idles with a slight cammy rumble, idles clean but with a slight shake after a long freeway trip. Cheers

[FTe342]

Fitted the new O2 sensors and cleaned the MAF today. While I had the intake snorkel off I noticed the sensor thats about 150mm before the throttle body was mounted horizontally when looking at the inside so i turned it 90 degrees so the air can flow through it. I imagine this is how it should be sitting?

Did the KAMS reset. Car now seems to run smoother and better throttle response with just steady town driving. Will see if the economy is any better over the next few weeks

[Caprobbo]

Found the real problem-although the new CPS sensor seemed to help ( but still showing Fault on the Forscan when plugged in and OK when unplugged) work that one out !!

Blown Hego fuse!!!
The O2s weren't heating up at low speed to idle
I didn't even know the O2 heater circuit had a fuse till I studied the wiring for the O2s in the service manual.

So it was right under my nose all the time
All the trims are now oscillating between Negative 4% to- 4% positive so pretty close

It makes sense since It was running rich after picking it up from the panel shop after a ton of bodywork (welding) was done

I think that popped the fuse.......you live and learn!!
So the moral to the story is if you have fuelling problems check the Hego fuse in the box under the bonnet.
I can stamp on it in first and it lights em up like it used to and no more choking on unburnt fuel fumes,,,,,Hooray!!

[fordman302]

Thankyou thankyou thankyou, I have been chasing problems for 6 months, getting random codes on forescan, getting different results after replacing different parts and sensors, then finally, stumble across this thread and OMG, a simple fuse, I likewise wasn't aware it existed. Finally getting a chance to enjoy driving the old girl again ��

[Caprobbo]

Yea Fordman.
After all the advice that got me nowhere and cost money it was so simple.Took me year to find it,by accident while looking at the wiring diagram.

Now you've got it fixed make sure you change the fuel diluted oil and filter.

[Caprobbo]

So now its 2022 and the Capri is running rich at idle again.
Nowhere near as bad as before but fuel trims stay at 4% rich and dont oscillate.

Checked the o2 fuse...all good,replaced the fuel filter and its fixed.

Trims oscillate between -1 to +3 at idle

Work that one out!!