Alternator Valeo

[rondeo]

One of my 2011 MC 2.0 diesel's alternator died at 285000km. I found this excellent video for skilled DIYers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVvPzwtxdrM

I won't fix mine, I'll get a new one.

A new FoMoCo Valeo alternator goes from about $600 to $1200 depending. 250000km might be a good time to change if you don't want to risk breaking down.

Brushes and slip rings worn out, bearings seem Ok but...

[whitelion65]

Accessible?
Did you do the swap-out yourself?
I’m a little way off, but starting to plan.

[rondeo]

Mine went far from home so I had to have it done by a mechanic.

When I did the timing belt I made up a tool to release the acessory belt tension (working from above).
I used a 15mm flex head ratcheting ring spanner cut off one end and extended with a steel tube.
Overall 500mm long. The locking pin is 3mm diameter.

Alan Howatt's video shows the alternator removal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDBXyCAAURc

I plan to do the other car myself soon. Mine don't have the fuel filter in the way, it's at the rear.
I started dismantling the old alternator and the slip rings/brushes are seriously gone, hard to believe it kept going so long.

[Citroënbender]

Valeo is possibly French for “worn slip rings”. It’s a long-term characteristic of their designs. As repair information and spare parts show, it’s not unthinkable to renew just these bits and expect another half-life from them. I don’t believe it’s a flaw so much as design choice for optimal contact through its service.

Their D6RA series alternators are also inclined to wear the commutator in addition to the brushes - not so easy to resolve.

In contrast, Mitsubishi alternator slip rings last towards 400K on many of their units.

[rondeo]

Like 'Mondeo' is possibly Latin for gearbox anxiety. I managed to further destroy the old alternator by forcibly removing the diode unit from the casing. 3 diodes were left behind in the casing. Avid DIYers: Keep the old alternator, the regulator and diodes are potentially spare parts. Such a waste otherwise.

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Like 'Mondeo' is possibly Latin for gearbox anxiety.

Sorry to post without adding anything constructive, bit this is just too perfect a summary
Edit: that's getting sigged

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by whitelion65

Accessible?
Did you do the swap-out yourself?
I’m a little way off, but starting to plan.

Started replacing the other alternator this morning. Released tension on aux belt using custom made tools: Extended 15mm ratcheting ring spanner and 6mm aluminium rod with 1/8"hole drilled in the end to hold and insert the locking pin. Disconnected alternator from battery at both ends, unplugged LIN bus connection (broke plastic plug latch). Next I'll undo and move to side the power steering reservoir and pump, remove engine cover mounting bracket and remove headlight. Then I'll see...

[rondeo]

I last changed an alternator about 40 years ago on my Dodge ute, it was $80 and took about half an hour I suppose.

Mechanic who did our breakdown alternator replacement on 2011 MC diesel took 2.5 hours, which I think says a lot about serviceability. I'm elderly now, going a bit slower, I stop to see the clouds... Maybe a few days of 2 hour sessions. Main problem is accessibility: in short, not good.

Maybe the extra man hours are cancelled out by the efficiency of modern cars. Dunno.

[rondeo]

Installed new alternator. Ford part made in Poland, not French Valeo as original.
Judging by the state of the old brushes and slip rings, 250000km would be a good time to replace, other things aside.

To access the alternator remove these first:

RH wheel

wheel arch lining

accessory drive belt

drive belt idler pulley

headlight

power steering reservoir and pump - move aside

engine cover mounting bracket


You need a 4mm (not 3mm) pin to lock the drive belt tensioner,
and a couple of special tools to reach the tensioner.
Alternator bolt torque is 47Nm according to Haynes.
Applies to MC where the fuel filter is underneath the car at rear.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Installed new alternator. Ford part made in Poland, not French Valeo as original.
Judging by the state of the old brushes and slip rings, 250000km would be a good time to replace, other things aside.

To access the alternator remove these first:

RH wheel

wheel arch lining

accessory drive belt

drive belt idler pulley

headlight

power steering reservoir and pump - move aside

engine cover mounting bracket


You need a 4mm (not 3mm) pin to lock the drive belt tensioner,
and a couple of special tools to reach the tensioner.
Alternator bolt torque is 47Nm according to Haynes.
Applies to MC where the fuel filter is underneath the car at rear.

I did the alternator on one of my HDi 308's. was a right royal PITA to do.....

[Citroënbender]

Curious about one detail of the Valeo from Poland. Was it marked with the “recycled/regenerated” symbol?

[rondeo]

Not sure. There is a 3 sided symbol on the Ford label but doesn't match anything I see on Google images. I noticed the stator windings were partially spray painted black which I thought was a bit odd.
I guess remanufactured units might re-use regulators, so lifetime might be less for the semiconductor devices.

[Citroënbender]

There’s a little information about “Valeo Service” remanufactured parts, but it’s seemingly hard to find part numbers. I know they paint the rotor core and stator ring after “steel brushing” (their words), not sure of colour though.

Poland seems a hub of large scale automotive component reclamation, hence my curiosity.