Engine Oil Spec for Longevity?

[Damotm]

Hpr5 gives me tappet noises on start up, whereas nulon 5w30 runs sweetly

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[383hq]

I wouldn't over think it.
An engineer would tell you 15W/XX (anything) is good until -20 deg C.
Thats MINUS 20 degrees....

I'm not saying thinner is not better, I'm simply saying that anywhere in Australia you'll be fine.
If you don't live at Threadbo or in Tasmania in winter, you can even use a 20WXX although even then I'd doubt it gets below -10.

[Maka]

Originally Posted by Damotm

Hpr5 gives me tappet noises on start up, whereas nulon 5w30 runs sweetly

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Hi Damotm, welcome to AFF! Can i ask what engine/vehicle are you referring to & is that 5w30 the standard factory recommended oil grade?

cheers, Maka

[roKWiz]

3 of my little Ford Traders run Penrite Diesel 15W40 mineral here at the foot of the Vic alps throughout winter and Penrite Diesel +10 20W60 mineral in summer.

In the hotter temps the oil tends to thin out under heavy loading particularly driving at hwy speeds.
While the XF runs 15W40 year round.

[Damotm]

Originally Posted by Maka

Hi Damotm, welcome to AFF! Can i ask what engine/vehicle are you referring to & is that 5w30 the standard factory recommended oil grade?

cheers, Maka

Hi Maka, yes its an 07 BF 4 Litre petrol. Cheers

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[Bigredbf]

Originally Posted by ebv8

just don't wait till 15000km to change your oil, doing so will make sure your engine lasts untill the warranty runs out and not much more, halve it and do it at 7500km or 12 months max.
oil is cheap these days and buy a 10 pack of filters on ebay and oil changes are cheap insurance
i have a 2008 e-gas and the book says 15w-40 which i find strange as its the same engine as yours and it takes 5w-30.

you might find in the book it recommends 7500km oil changes if you do highway, traffic, towing, high speed, low speed, stop start, continuous driving, and so-on...basically tells you to do it at 7500kms

I think egas run hotter then petrol

[NCII40]

Check oil manufactures data sheets

You want a good CCS value to protect at cold starts

Just for a example only
HPR5 is @6400,
vs
Castrol edge 5w @6030


Cold Crank Viscosity

Low temperature viscosity

(mPa∙s) Max (CCS)

0W

6200 @ -35

5W

6600 @ -30

10W

7000 @ -25

15W

7000 @ -20

20W

9500 @ -15

25W

13000 @ -10

[Late braker]

2008 BF XR6 N/A 199,000km. My mechanic uses 10w40. Has some minor leaks- rear main seal, valve cover and burns a little bit of oil every few thousand kms. I just keep an eye on things and top up as necessary with 10w40. Service every 15,000km as per the book.

[Franco Cozzo]

Omnicraft fully synthetic 5W30 in all our Euros, but we do services every 10,000km instead of the 15,000km interval.

Caprice takes Nulon 25W60 high zinc mineral cause flat tappet hydraulic camshaft, car gets oil changes when I can be bothered because its done 17,000km in 6 years.

I had fully synthetic 15W50 in it initially and it got super liftery on the dyno once, so I went up to 25W60 and no dramas ever since.

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Omnicraft fully synthetic 5W30 in all our Euros, but we do services every 10,000km instead of the 15,000km interval.

Caprice takes Nulon 25W60 high zinc mineral cause flat tappet hydraulic camshaft, car gets oil changes when I can be bothered because its done 17,000km in 6 years.

I had fully synthetic 15W50 in it initially and it got super liftery on the dyno once, so I went up to 25W60 and no dramas ever since.

and I though 20W60 was a heavy grade.