Timing belt replacement.

[goz007]

The V6 in the SZ is a little different were the crank pulley has no keyway & is held in place purely by the tension of the crankshaft gear bolt,(Duetz Diesel engines are the same- no keyways on crankshaft or camshaft-timing gears held in place by bolt tension)in saying that though it(cranckshaft gear)is not loosened or removed on cam belt replacement, how the timing moves(& it's probably not even 1tooth)is as the new belt is loading up with the tensioner as the cams are pinned but the crank isn't, it can allow a slight movement in the crankshaft.....l've also done timing belts without pinning the crank(I don't like to but sometimes u have no options)anthor trick I will use as well as putting marks on the cams & crank(to the heads & block or flywheel)i will also put marks on the teeth(crank & cams)to the old belt, then transfer the marks from the old belt(through a tooth count) to the new belt, that way i have double reference points.

[AlanM]

Originally Posted by goz007

Hey AlanM any chance u have part numbers for the timing kit & the water pump? Also before I go to far is yours an MD? If not disregard the part No request (although they could be useful for other members)

Sorry, forgot about this. I've dug out the receipt. It's pretty badly printed, but as far as I can make out, the part number is:
KTB995EP which is the timing belt kit including the water pump.

But when I search that number on Autobarn's website it comes up empty.

Worth a phone enquiry though, as I said there's no timing belt kit for this car on their website anyway, but they were able to supply it, and quite quickly.

[Citroënbender]

That crosses to a Dayco boxed kit, probably a European made water pump but who knows?

A note on mistimed engine failures - to me it’s good when they design the rocker arms to work like “fuses”. A lot less cleaning up after a belt fails. Some of the eighties/nineties Peugeot in-line fours had cam caps that fractured instead. Nice idea but the spares weren’t really available and used parts would be likely to need line boring - so the rocker arm weak points were a real step up…

[AlanM]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

That crosses to a Dayco boxed kit, probably a European made water pump but who knows?

A note on mistimed engine failures - to me it’s good when they design the rocker arms to work like “fuses”. A lot less cleaning up after a belt fails. Some of the eighties/nineties Peugeot in-line fours had cam caps that fractured instead. Nice idea but the spares weren’t really available and used parts would be likely to need line boring - so the rocker arm weak points were a real step up…

The original was probably European made, possibly Mahle, but it failed at 178,000 km. And apparently it's a far from rare occurrence.

[goz007]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15584219...mis&media=COPY

[goz007]

I'm looking@this one.....I believe it will suit the Mondeo2L

[AlanM]

Originally Posted by goz007

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15584219...mis&media=COPY

The water pump looks right, assuming the photo is of the pump that comes with this kit.

Another kit I bought on Ebay once was very close. The water pump fit into the block perfectly, but the bottom half of the plastic timing belt cover didn't quite fit the pump. That sort of raised "wall" on the front of the pump was a slightly different shape, with a square corner instead of an angle. It just needed a little mod and it was fine. It's weird how many small, seemingly pointless changes these motors have undergone.

[AlanM]

BTW, the coolant drain on the pump is useful. It's easy to undo and easy to set up a funnel under it. You can pretty much catch every drop of coolant.

[goz007]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274661573190
for anyone whos interested, i bought this & for the money it looks good, i'll report back after ive done the belt & H,P pump oil leak(but my early thoughts are it will be good) also a little footnote about the H.P pump its also timed so engine timing needs to be locked@flywheel & cams(like anything it can be done not locking crank with a heap of paint pen marks & u remove valve cover-imo for the cost of the kit its just asking for tears by not locking the crank timing up)or u could end up removing & being 180deg out on pump timing.

[AlanM]

Originally Posted by goz007

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274661573190
for anyone whos interested, i bought this & for the money it looks good, i'll report back after ive done the belt & H,P pump oil leak(but my early thoughts are it will be good) also a little footnote about the H.P pump its also timed so engine timing needs to be locked@flywheel & cams(like anything it can be done not locking crank with a heap of paint pen marks & u remove valve cover-imo for the cost of the kit its just asking for tears by not locking the crank timing up)or u could end up removing & being 180deg out on pump timing.

I can't see how you could be 180deg out, because you lock the camshaft in place. And if the cam was 180 out, it would be pretty easy to notice. The locking pin wouldn't go in.

You have to rely on timing marks on the hp fuel pump anyway, there's no way to lock it.

To use the flywheel lock I believe you need to remove the starter motor. I've done that on an MC. It's not fun. Maybe it's easier on the MD.

Anyway I'm not being argumentative, it's just that as far as I can see, if you mark the crankshaft (and you can mark the timing belt too if you like,) and when the crank pulley bolt is fully torqued up and you've turned the engine over a couple of revolutions and everything still lines up, I just can't see how it could be wrong.

[goz007]

180 out as cam spins twice the speed of crank

[goz007]

yes correct=starter needs to be remoed the lock goes in the starter hole+the hole to put the lock pint for the flexplate/flywheel also sits behind the starter

[AlanM]

Originally Posted by goz007

180 out as cam spins twice the speed of crank

Yeah, the cam actually spins half the speed of the crank. So if the crank was out 180deg, the cam would be out by 90.

[AlanM]

Originally Posted by goz007

yes correct=starter needs to be remoed the lock goes in the starter hole+the hole to put the lock pint for the flexplate/flywheel also sits behind the starter

A bit more work, but peace of mind.

[goz007]

yes as you say about marking everything up for the belt is a way it can be done & if very careful can be done, but u still run the risk of the crank moving when the tensioner loads up.....yes spinning motor by hand is a must & even when uve used lock pins i advise u still do a couple of revolutions by hand, but in regards to the H.P .P its also every chance if careful it can be done without pinning/locking flywheel ,but u definatly leave yourself open to tears especially if you dont pull rocker cover to see were your cam gears/rockers are at(because u could be TDC No1 but u could also be TDC No4=its still going to pin the cam in the same spot) &if u pull the pump & its not on its timing mark, then u are 180 out & at TDC No4

[AlanM]

TDC on 1 is TDC on 4.

2 and 3 have TDC together too. Most inline fours are like this.

Whether it's the top of the compression or exhaust stroke is decided by the camshaft position.

Presumably the timing point on the cam sprocket would be top of the compression stroke on cylinder 1.

Because these motors are electronic fuel injection, it would actually run even if the HP fuel pump was completely mistimed. The common rail will still be pressurised and the injection timing comes from the crankshaft and camshaft
position sensors.

Apparently getting the HP fuel pump wrong causes excess vibration and can eventually strip teeth off the timing belt.

[AlanM]

Did another one yesterday, in about 3 1/2 hours.

Where I'm getting faster is heating up the bolt. I don't stop and check anywhere near as often. Also have the heat gun set at 500'C. Get the bolt to about 120'C and off she comes.

And I didn't need to refer to YouTube at all!
Replaced the top engine mount too, and what a difference that made! If the bonnet vibrates at idle you probably need a new engine mount!