Phil B's XB coupe - Page 10

Phil B · 15-10-2013, 04:58 PM

How do you get the speedo cable out of the back of the gauge? I'm having trouble

Phil B · 25-10-2013, 06:26 PM

Any recommendations on a distributor to replace mine?
Currently has the standard points one but it's all flogged out and messes up the timing under high load. I'm thinking going electronic, so what do/dont I need as well? Doesn't have to be too fancy, on the budget side.

greenjgs · 26-10-2013, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil B

Any recommendations on a distributor to replace mine?
Currently has the standard points one but it's all flogged out and messes up the timing under high load. I'm thinking going electronic, so what do/dont I need as well? Doesn't have to be too fancy, on the budget side.

Hi Phil. You have a few options, MSD, ICE and Mallory all make good electronic dissys. I use the standard ford electronic on the Goss with an MSD6L spark amplifier and a Mallory electronic with MSD on the racer and both work excellent, start 1st time, no plug fouling etc.

The Ford electronic dissy can be bushed to work in an early Clevo, but if you do that throw the module away and use an MSD 6AL instead. Have a look at www.competitionengines.com.au Zoran and Bobby price things well and they are good guys.

Cheers G

ianxy351 · 26-10-2013, 01:16 PM

I too would go the Ford OEM electronic dissy as suggested above, plus an ignition amplifier - MSD or ICE. You will be surprised how much difference a electronic dizzy will make over points. Easier to start, better throttle response, etc. Alternatively, a MSD or ICE dizzy, but the Ford unit is good value. if you go OEM get it regraphed.

Phil B · 28-10-2013, 07:16 PM

Bound to happen one day. Coupe stranded me on the side of the road. Engine not starting, rough and no power when it did. Hope its not too bad...

Phil B · 29-10-2013, 08:36 AM

The rubber fuel hose to the carby was cracked and squirting fuel right onto the distributor!!! So lucky it didnt BBQ itself! Carb has also pooped itself somehow so it needs a kit through it. Im hoping that and a new distributor will fix it all and it'll be reliable after that, getting frustrated at the amount of things that have kept breaking and the amount of money I've been sinking into it lately.

Phil B · 29-10-2013, 04:54 PM

Random side note for a laugh:

I was sitting at maccas the other night and decided I'd make myself a Procomp distributor:

Should be up to their quality standards yeah?

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 11:00 AM

Only made it 2 weeks without problems. Cranks but wont fire now, not sure what the problem is

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil B

Only made it 2 weeks without problems. Cranks but wont fire now, not sure what the problem is

They only need 2 thing to run. Fuel and spark. Which one is missing?

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs123

They only need 2 thing to run. Fuel and spark. Which one is missing?

Im pretty sure I have fuel, acceleration jets squirt when they should, filter next to the carb has fuel. Just not sure if I have too much fuel. Will go check spark now

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 11:58 AM

Damn grabbed the wrong spark plug socket from my work toolbox... Will have to wait a while

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil B

Im pretty sure I have fuel, acceleration jets squirt when they should, filter next to the carb has fuel. Just not sure if I have too much fuel. Will go check spark now

If you're sure you have fuel ie you squirt the accelerator and see fuel then look for spark. If could be either missing or very weak. It could be the timing has shifted. If you still have points check that they are gapped properly.

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs123

If you're sure you have fuel ie you squirt the accelerator and see fuel then look for spark. If could be either missing or very weak. It could be the timing has shifted. If you still have points check that they are gapped properly.

I'm waiting for a mate to bring the right spark plug socket, so I'll check then.

Yep still running points. Had them replaced just a few weeks ago by my mechanic (along with everything else, including a carb kit). But he did say that the distributor was flogged out and would need replacing relatively soon.

My guess is it's finally crapped itself for good.

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 01:10 PM

Pulled the coil lead off the distributor and got a spark.

Pulled a plug lead off and didnt get a spark, would have been a 20-30mm gap, is that too far for even a good spark to jump?

Heres 2 plugs I pulled off, ones front left, other is rear right:

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 02:09 PM

Heres all the plugs:

And the points, which I didnt check until just now because they are only a month or so old, but they look bad:

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 03:00 PM

Those plugs look sad.

Put a plug back in the lead for #1 and rest it on the engine block. Crank the engine and check for spark. You should have a nice fat spark.

Check points gap is set OK.

Put a meter on the coil + terminal and block. Crank the engine. You should have 12v there.

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 03:10 PM

Thats not good to hear, the plugs are only a month or so old, same with the points.

I have checked for spark, what is classed as a good spark? There was spark but it looked fairly small, just off one edge of the electrodes, definitely not over the whole face.

How do I check points gap? And are those points ok or stuffed? Not sure what you can see in the picture but theres a fair lump on one of them, and they dont feel like they close nicely either.

I did check for spark out of the coil to distributor lead before and got a good spark. Ill check voltage though

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 03:18 PM

Cranking with no plugs in i got 6.7v... with the ignition just to "on" i got 4v

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil B

Cranking with no plugs in i got 6.7v... with the ignition just to "on" i got 4v

That's 6.7v from coil + to the block? It should be 12 when you're cranking.

To do a test you can make a jumper lead up that runs from coil + to the battery +. Connect the lead to the coil. Get an assistant to crank the engine and hold the wire to the battery +.

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs123

That's 6.7v from coil + to the block? It should be 12 when you're cranking.

To do a test you can make a jumper lead up that runs from coil + to the battery +. Connect the lead to the coil. Get an assistant to crank the engine and hold the wire to the battery +.

Just checking, Coil + is the terminal that has a few wires off it?
And I did it to the battery negative terminal, is that not the same?

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil B

Just checking, Coil + is the terminal that has a few wires off it?
And I did it to the battery negative terminal, is that not the same?

The coil + will have a + sign on it and will have a single connector with a red wire and brown wire.

Battery - is fine.

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs123

The coil + will have a + sign on it and will have a single connector with a red wire and brown wire.

Battery - is fine.

Yep thats the one. Mine also has another connector on it to a resistor? on top of the coil.

And a pic of the distributor incase it helps:

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 06:17 PM

That thing on the coil is a noise suppressor. What's the white wire for??? Looks like someone as adding some wiring.

The brown wire picks up 12v from the starter motor to give you 12v during cranking. The thicker reddish wire is the ballast wire for normal run.

If you are cranking the engine you should be seeing 12v on the coil +

Do the test with 12v from the battery to the coil + and see if it starts.

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs123

That thing on the coil is a noise suppressor. What's the white wire for??? Looks like someone as adding some wiring.

The brown wire picks up 12v from the starter motor to give you 12v during cranking. The thicker reddish wire is the ballast wire for normal run.

If you are cranking the engine you should be seeing 12v on the coil +

Do the test with 12v from the battery to the coil + and see if it starts.

The white wire turns to the black to the noise supressor.

How could I do that test by myself? Can I hook up a lead both ends then crank? Will it harm anything?

Also will the points be affecting things? Could you see them in the last pic? have a lump on one, which I assume is a bad thing

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 07:29 PM

The points should not look like that after a month or so. If there is a big dag on the points surface then you can dress it with a nail file.

Rotate the engine until the points rubbing block is at the centre of the cam on the distributor shaft. Check the gap at this point. I don't know the factory spec off hand. You can just eyeball it for now and make sure it opens and closes.

If you are careful you can do that test by yourself. Just be aware that the engine will continue to run until you pull the wire off.

Also pull that white wire off for now.

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 08:05 PM

Just tried a jumper going straight from the battery to the coil. No luck.

Didnt have the white wire off, didnt see you wrote that.

Will check the distributor cam/gap now

Phil B · 17-11-2013, 08:18 PM

yep points do open.

Wife is very ****ed off... :(

**cs123** · 17-11-2013, 11:13 PM

It's looking like a bad coil or cap.

That's an odd looking rotor button. How long is it from the centre to the end? Mine is 3.7cm.

Inspect the inside of the cap and make sure the centre contact is in good condition as well as the contacts for each cylinder.

Pull the coil out of the bracket, sand a patch of paint off and tighten the bracket back down.

PlukaDuck · 18-11-2013, 01:04 AM

Hi guys.
I was reading your post and have a suggestion based on something that happened to me.
Had done a tune up. New cap, rotor, plugs points, and ummmm( having a brain fade.) that little silver cylinder inside the dizzy.??

Car ran ok . About 2 months later I decide to go for a cruise. Get about 1 klm from home and nothing. Car stops. Crank it nothing. Lift the hood and have fuel but no spark. After a few F- words I ran a wire from battery to points bypassing that ( is it resister)??? little cylinder.
Yep got spark. Rang a mate and he grabbed an old one and away we went car running fine.
Brand new part was faulty.
The crimping for the connector to the resistor/points was not touching the wires inside the plastic coating. Inside the little rubber block that sits in dizzy housing
I noticed in your pic the resistor looks new. I had purchased a bosch unit.
Maybe same problem you have. Worth a look

greenjgs · 18-11-2013, 06:53 AM

Hey Phil
Another thought for you. Unbolt the coil from the block and it's bracket, sit it on a rag and try for spark again. I had a friend over tighten is coil which created a short. Can ran as soon as the coil was isolated and wouldn't when mounted up.

As far as you plugs go, this is not unusual on unleaded with a standard ign system. No a big enough spark. IF you want to fix this permanently, go electronic and use a MSD 6AL. As mentioned earlier, just make sure you either get an XD dissy bushed so it will work in your block or buy an after market dissy and have it graphed. I know this is more money, but if you want the problem to go away, there's your answer.

Cheers Graeme