Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

My new Rupes turned up today!































The first thing you notice is how light the unit is, with or without the battery. It's also butter smooth, lacking the clattery wind down of my ShineMate's.

More detail here -
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showpo...postcount=2487

[DFB FGXR6]

After a short break, I'm again providing blog posts for Detailing Shed. While these are not credited with my name, rather the business owner, I wrote and collaborated with the team to arrive at the final result.

The latest post is a Bilt Hamber range overview. While I could easily write multiple pages on the topic, I've had to dial that back to make it approachable for all readers rather than just for diehards like me.

For Bilt Hamber, I've tried to convey what each product does and why you would use it. Even for someone who lives and breathes detailing, I find Bilt Hamber's product descriptions rather confusing. Hopefully the article provides a better understanding of the brand and its products.

https://detailingshed.com.au/blogs/a...ling-precision

[prydey]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

My new Rupes turned up today!

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The first thing you notice is how light the unit is, with or without the battery. It's also butter smooth, lacking the clattery wind down of my ShineMate's.

More detail here -
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showpo...postcount=2487

If you want to test it I reckon I could be there in about 7hrs...

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

If you want to test it I reckon I could be there in about 7hrs...

Deal!

[ozpacman]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

My new Rupes turned up today!

I bought a RUPES 7 inch sander/polisher new in 1977. I've worked the hell out of it and it still works like a charm. Great gear!

[anobserver]

A quick review of a product recommendation.



Was going to try this on the I30, but got distracted with the rtv, so i tried small sections at a time on tbw Ute to see how it would go, over many days. (Its hardly left the garage this week... that will change next week when I start driving it to work).

Keeping in mind I polish by hand, I found it an excellent aid to surface decontamination. The paint surfaces are definitely cleaner smoother.

A machine polisher might help the aggression and maybe correct the colour as well.

Thanks to dfb for the product suggestion.

And next, I'll be looking at machine polishers, for sure....

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by anobserver

A quick review of a product recommendation.

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Was going to try this on the I30, but got distracted with the rtv, so i tried small sections at a time on tbw Ute to see how it would go, over many days. (Its hardly left the garage this week... that will change next week when I start driving it to work).

Keeping in mind I polish by hand, I found it an excellent aid to surface decontamination. The paint surfaces are definitely cleaner smoother.

A machine polisher might help the aggression and maybe correct the colour as well.

Thanks to dfb for the product suggestion.

And next, I'll be looking at machine polishers, for sure....

Reflect is such a pure joy to use. Once the pad/applicator is primed, consumption is very minimal and the wipe off is butter smooth with no dusting!

It's only failing is a lack of ultimate correction, but then it is a finishing polish after all. However, on soft paint it can be quite effective. I used it to remove strange water spot stains from a Mazda, teamed with the intermediate blue ShineMate. So, a relatively soft compound teamed with a relatively firm pad. It removed all the stains and leveled off some minor marring.



So, what are you thinking with the polisher? Corded or battery? Entry level or all in?

[anobserver]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Reflect is such a pure joy to use. Once the pad/applicator is primed, consumption is very minimal and the wipe off is butter smooth with no dusting!

It's only failing is a lack of ultimate correction, but then it is a finishing polish after all. However, on soft paint it can be quite effective. I used it to remove strange water spot stains .....

So, what are you thinking with the polisher? Corded or battery? Entry level or all in?

I'm looking at the bonnet especially, which is stained and water marked. It's an easy panel to remove and respray too, if it can't be corrected.

With a polisher, as with many things, i would probably go for a mid level unit. I find that's usually the best value.

Happy to take suggestions on corded vs battery. The latter seems to have much improved in the last few years.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by anobserver

I'm looking at the bonnet especially, which is stained and water marked. It's an easy panel to remove and respray too, if it can't be corrected.

With a polisher, as with many things, i would probably go for a mid level unit. I find that's usually the best value.

Happy to take suggestions on corded vs battery. The latter seems to have much improved in the last few years.

Most people, including me, start with a singular machine in some form of a kit. That gets you up and running with a machine, pads and compounds. Once you have some hours on the machine, you can then experiment with pads, different compounds and potentially adding a smaller machine. For the most part, you would ideally start with a 5-inch machine, then add a 3-inch machine, then add a 1-inch machine last.

The Waxit Enthusiast Kit is basically the modern version of what I started out with. This is the 3-inch ShineMate machine with a 5-inch backing plate and valance fitted, so it’s light weight and easy to handle. The kit includes three grades of pads and Scholl compounds.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40453946343513

The above is a great starting point, but I would be more inclined to go up a level and get a dedicated 5-inch machine, which then opens you up to add a dedicated 3-inch. I’d be inclined to do the ShineMate EX610 or EX620 PRO, both offered in kit form.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40476520317017
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40476542697561

From there, you would be either looking at Rupes equivalent, or stepping toward battery power. Personally, if you can swing the extra cash, I would absolutely go with battery power. For me, it frees you up from trying to manage the cord and allows you to just focus on polishing.

Top of the list for me for occasional use, the Milwaukee machines are very enticing. Officially, only the 6-inch machine is offered in Australia. But………….you can order the 5-inch skin from Amazon or eBay. Because you are not buying something with an electrical cord, you won’t have AU vs USA electrical compatibility issues. At $475 for the skin, that is a very good price if you already have Milwaukee battery system.

https://www.amazon.com.au/Milwaukee-.../dp/B0B59RPC6T
https://www.totaltools.com.au/187629...iABEgIKF_D_BwE

The Ryobi’s are only 8mm orbits, so you won’t get the full benefit of having a machine. That leads to the ShineMate EB351 with the 15mm orbit, not the 12mm. Buy it as a kit, you can then add the smaller EB350 3-inch later on.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40476529721433
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40283314126937

One thing to consider –

For DA (dual action) polishers, the larger the orbit, the more aggressive the cutting performance. For rotary polishers, the larger the pad size, the more aggressive the performance. That’s where smaller 1 and 2 inch rotary polishers are in theory safer than a 21mm 6-inch dual action.

If you want more detail on that, I have this thread here on the subject -
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11496234

That thread is a little out of date now in terms of recommendations, but the progression is the same.

[bangm001]

Hi DFB, is the $384.00 price on the first DA Shinemate polishing kit a good price (says 31% off)? Do you recommend anything better for the polishing and finishing products if one was to use this kit and require more or are the ones that it comes with pretty good?>

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Hi DFB, is the $384.00 price on the first DA Shinemate polishing kit a good price (says 31% off)? Do you recommend anything better for the polishing and finishing products if one was to use this kit and require more or are the ones that it comes with pretty good?>

That price is hard to beat, just stick with the 250ml compound kit. The good thing about that kit is the size of the machine is very approachable if you have never used a polisher before.

The blue pad and S20 Black will pretty much do everything you need on Ford Australia paint. You would probably order another set of pads, or at least some more blue pads.

[FTE217]

bangm I still use what DFB quotes above, does the job with ease once you get the hang it in no time.....
Buy lots of red masking tape varied width for future jobs.
Only thing you'll wish for next is having the smaller
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40522590879833
to get in the tight areas with ease lol but thats the detailing bug you'll get soon enough ROFL......

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

bangm I still use what DFB quotes above, does the job with ease once you get the hang it in no time.....
Buy lots of red masking tape varied width for future jobs.
Only thing you'll wish for next is having the smaller
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40522590879833
to get in the tight areas with ease lol but thats the detailing bug you'll get soon enough ROFL......

This is one of the reasons why I recommended going the next step up from the Enthusiast Kit in a previous post.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40476520317017

The Enthusiast machine is basically a 3-inch unit with a 5-inch backing plate and a smaller orbit. The larger EX610 makes for a more defined role as a dedicated 5-inch machine, which then leaves room for the smaller EB210 or EX603.

[Top_Ghia]

I started with the shinemate EX620 5 inch kit and it’s an awesome place to start. It’s a great polisher.
I’d never used a polisher before that and first used it on my 1 day old Mustang GT with stunning results. I started with the soft pads and finishing polish’s and worked my way up.
After 2 or 3 years I felt the urge to get a smaller machine so bought the shinemate eb210 kit. It’s a great addition and extremely versatile.

Neither kit I would consider high end but I think they will last me many years and work really well.
I suspect Rupes would give you a more premium feel but they will cost nearly twice as much.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I started with the shinemate EX620 5 inch kit and it’s an awesome place to start. It’s a great polisher.
I’d never used a polisher before that and first used it on my 1 day old Mustang GT with stunning results. I started with the soft pads and finishing polish’s and worked my way up.
After 2 or 3 years I felt the urge to get a smaller machine so bought the shinemate eb210 kit. It’s a great addition and extremely versatile.

Neither kit I would consider high end but I think they will last me many years and work really well.
I suspect Rupes would give you a more premium feel but they will cost nearly twice as much.

The ShineMates are easily the best of the mid-range machines. The Rupes (and Flex) tax is very real, and while I have a couple, they are not twice as good. While I love my iBrid Nano, its way overpriced for what it is.

[FTE217]

Yes the Shinemates are the perfect medium for the home enthusiast types like us.
Look after them they’ll last for a long time and importantly do the job with ease.
I enjoy using mine a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bangm001]

If i was to buy more pads for the shinemate, which pads should i go use the same as original shinemate ones in the kit? Which colours do you usually use the most?

I cant recall reading much about keeping pads clean whilst polishing other than brushing after every panel. Is there any other vital maintenance to a pad if i was to use several in a full day of polishing?

[Top_Ghia]

I like Lake Country HDO pads.
They are a lot better than the Shinemate pads. I can’t even say why.
But they seem to work better and last longer.
You’ll need an air compressor to blow out the pads between passes.

[bangm001]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I like Lake Country HDO pads.
They are a lot better than the Shinemate pads. I can’t even say why.
But they seem to work better and last longer.
You’ll need an air compressor to blow out the pads between passes.

I have a good compressor, do you just wash the pads after the days done then?

[FTE217]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B01zu7wuGA0
Here's a quick way to clean - I actually get them in warm water to soften up the polish and brush the face - works fine by me.
I get more Blue pads than others, therefore don't need many spares of the other colours pads.
As mentioned a pad looked after can last a year and more.
Why would you need to blow air after each pass.
My pads always staying moist, key is as mentioned do not over do it with the S20 or any polish.
The 3 or 4 drops is all you need.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

If i was to buy more pads for the shinemate, which pads should i go use the same as original shinemate ones in the kit? Which colours do you usually use the most?

I can't recall reading much about keeping pads clean whilst polishing other than brushing after every panel. Is there any other vital maintenance to a pad if i was to use several in a full day of polishing?

You can clean pads on the fly, but its messy and time consuming. I just swap to clean pads as I go and then clean them all at the end of the day, see below.

As for pad choice, welcome to paint correction! I have the below threads on pad and compound choices, but I'll post some specifics here too.

https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11500540
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11500475

I would stick with the ShineMate pads until you find your feet. You can then venture into Rupes and Lake Country pads. The supplied pads in the kit are the Black Diamond type, which apparently manage heat better and more forgiving to use. They are also affordable to get started with.

This is the ShineMate pad hierarchy, which is not universal by the way -

- Green Foam Heavy Cut Pad - Ideal for extremely heavy cut without compromising finish on medium to hard paint finishes

- Yellow Medium Cut Pad - Medium to Heavy cut while providing a high gloss finish, ideal on all paint systems

- Blue Foam Intermediate Pad - Excels at moderate to light defect removal on all paint systems whilst finishing down to a fantastic level

- Orange Universal Pad - Ideal for a variety of compounds on all paint types

- Red Finishing Pad - ideal for light defect removal and finishing on harder clear coats. Can be used as a medium cutting pad on softer clear coats.

- Gray Foam Ultra Soft Pad - Ideal for final finishing and application of waxes and sealants

I have not needed to go above the yellow, or below the blue on Ford paint. That doesn't mean you shouldn't have them in stock though, you always need to start with a less aggressive option first, and work your way up if needed.

In your case, I would order more of the blue and yellow ShineMates in Black Diamond spec. Probably another 3 of each, in 6'' size for a 5-inch backing plate. Either that or another pad kit with all three pads.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...nt=19551685124
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...nt=19552092612
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...31701204828249

Something to keep in mind, the previously mentioned S20 Black can do some serious cutting depending on the pad, if you are only trying to gloss things up rather than remove serious defects, then start with something like Carpro Reflect or Rupes DA Fine.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...iant=641822125
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...32113755455577

Originally Posted by bangm001

I have a good compressor, do you just wash the pads after the days done then?

It's a good habit to blow out the pad after each set of passes. Just do it away from the car so you don't shower it with dust. You can also use a bucket with a small amount of water in it trap the dust.



From my experience, Scholl S20 is pretty dusty, I would also get some Carpro Eraser to help with the wipe off.

And a pad brush is worth having too. I use the Rupes Claw Pad Tool because it also doubles as a pad primer. It also looks good!

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...12226723184729





In terms of cleaning, I do this at the end of the day. I chuck them in a bucket with APC or high pH soap and leave them to soak overnight. I then rinse them under warm water, applying more APC if needed, then I run them through the washing machine with microfiber detergent (I'm not taking responsibility if the wife objects to this by the way!). Air dry them and store in airtight containers.

[bangm001]

Again thankyou very much everyone!

[DFB FGXR6]

I've been wanting something like these for a while, but finally jumped when I had a request for something to help clean up vintage Campagnolo bike gear. In this case, I'll be using these on a Milwaukee Rotary Multi-tool.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/28448575...r=586051258634



For polishing cars, pads like these would be used to deal with door handle cups, wheels, exhaust tips or any hard-to-reach spot. While ShineMate and Flex produce an attachment for these pads, you need a rotary machine to drive it, in particular a Flex PXE-80 or the ShineMate EP803k or EB230k

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...15974217547865
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-extension-kit







I have no use for a rotary machine other than the iBrid Nano, so careful use of these pads with the multi-tool will have to do, although it won't offer the same level of fine control.

[Top_Ghia]

Originally Posted by bangm001

I have a good compressor, do you just wash the pads after the days done then?

I simply chuck used pads in the washing machine with my microfiber towels with a dedicated microfiber wash fluid.
I usually splash a little of the fluid on the pad and work it in a bit. Then chuck them in the washing machine.
It seems to work just fine.

[prydey]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In which case, just give it a solid decon wash using Lift or Snow+, an IPA wipe down, then apply Lustre and/or Jet.
.

Finally got around to starting this process.

Washed the car with Carpro Lift, and most likely it's just placebo but to me it looks cleaner. Like it has indeed stripped it back to just the factory finish. Hard to explain but just looks clean.

Some feedback on Lift, I really like it. It foams up brilliant and the foam dwell time is quite long, so even though it says not to let it dry, there was plenty of time to wash the car just using the foam cannon and sponge with rinse bucket. I did back, side, side, front in separate goes but on a smaller car I reckon you could foam the whole car and still have time to hand wash it before it dried.

Another big plus but to me the 'reactivation' seemed a lot less. Something that does waste a lot of time and water with other soaps.

Now for some lunch before tackling the coating part. See how far I get before my back gives out.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Finally got around to starting this process.

Washed the car with Carpro Lift, and most likely it's just placebo but to me it looks cleaner. Like it has indeed stripped it back to just the factory finish. Hard to explain but just looks clean.

Some feedback on Lift, I really like it. It foams up brilliant and the foam dwell time is quite long, so even though it says not to let it dry, there was plenty of time to wash the car just using the foam cannon and sponge with rinse bucket. I did back, side, side, front in separate goes but on a smaller car I reckon you could foam the whole car and still have time to hand wash it before it dried.

Another big plus but to me the 'reactivation' seemed a lot less. Something that does waste a lot of time and water with other soaps.

Now for some lunch before tackling the coating part. See how far I get before my back gives out.

Lift certainly has a fantastic dwell time, which allows it to soak and penetrate dirt and contamination for easier and safer cleaning. I find that it foams brilliantly, then thins down as it dwells, then rinses clear.

Free rinsing is certainly a huge benefit a soap can have, it makes the rinse so much quicker and easier, which also reduces your water consumption. Of the 45 different soaps I have tried, only a select few are truly free rinsing.............

DIY Detail Incredible Suds -

https://autobuff.com.au/products/diy...ncredible-suds



Opti-Coat M-Wash -

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...945222e7&_ss=r



WoWo's Detailer Shampoo -

https://autobuff.com.au/products/wow...e19e6dce&_ss=r



Carpro Reset -

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=799686621



Koch Chemie GSF -

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...42914983444695



Of those, at the moment I'm loving Opti-coat M-Wash, expensive but truly excellent. I've cooled on GSF in recent months, its a great soap but I hate how it's $15 more expensive for a 1 lt bottle compared to when it launched. Over that time, Reset is still the same price and is just as good if not better.

[prydey]

Help...

I cleaned my car with nv clarity after washing with Lift.

Next I coated it with NV Lustre. The experience was as I remembered from doing the territory. Super easy spray on and slick level down and buff dry.

I let that sit for close to 2hrs and then started to top with NV Jet. From memory I did my territory next day so perhaps 2 hours isn't long enough between applications because while the Jet sprays on fine, the buff off is not smooth at all. Very grippy, leaving a very obvious difference in panel feel. I don't know what is going wrong, so help please!!

I did my daughters car with Jet on its own a bit over a year ago and that was fine.

I've given up for now. I'll try again in the morning. I don't have a lot of Jet left so need it to go smoothly.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Help...

I cleaned my car with nv clarity after washing with Lift.

Next I coated it with NV Lustre. The experience was as I remembered from doing the territory. Super easy spray on and slick level down and buff dry.

I let that sit for close to 2hrs and then started to top with NV Jet. From memory I did my territory next day so perhaps 2 hours isn't long enough between applications because while the Jet sprays on fine, the buff off is not smooth at all. Very grippy, leaving a very obvious difference in panel feel. I don't know what is going wrong, so help please!!

I did my daughters car with Jet on its own a bit over a year ago and that was fine.

I've given up for now. I'll try again in the morning. I don't have a lot of Jet left so need it to go smoothly.

While the two can be used like that, from past experience I had a similar problem putting Jet over the top of Lustre, to the point where I stuck with Jet on its own.

This is a known characteristic that sometimes presents itself, sometimes doesn't. I remember the NV guys saying to use a damp towel to begin with, using less product, and spraying into the towel and not direct. Temperature and humidity play a part too.

I hope that helps, I know how frustrating that sort of thing is.

[prydey]

Thanks. I watched a YouTube clip comparing jet, lustre and boost and at the end it was suggested all 3 could be layered, but that mostly lustre topped with jet was a very popular combo.

I guess lustre works fine on its own. Being a flat white car there's no big change in appearance but at least I know it's got a layer on there.

What I did notice most today though is that my rose coloured glasses have worn off and the paint, when viewed in the right light, looks like it's been cleaned with a scourer. Thankfully it's only noticeable if you're getting up close and personal with detailing etc. Even I didn't notice before today.

So if NV Jet continues to be difficult, should I persevere anyway or stop? I only did half the bonnet, front left 1/4 and front passenger door.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Thanks. I watched a YouTube clip comparing jet, lustre and boost and at the end it was suggested all 3 could be layered, but that mostly lustre topped with jet was a very popular combo.

I guess lustre works fine on its own. Being a flat white car there's no big change in appearance but at least I know it's got a layer on there.

What I did notice most today though is that my rose coloured glasses have worn off and the paint, when viewed in the right light, looks like it's been cleaned with a scourer. Thankfully it's only noticeable if you're getting up close and personal with detailing etc. Even I didn't notice before today.

So if NV Jet continues to be difficult, should I persevere anyway or stop? I only did half the bonnet, front left 1/4 and front passenger door.

Lustre has some filling properties, so it can hide a certain degree of imperfections.

I would try another panel using a damp towel and less product and see where that leads you. Ideally in warm temps. NV state this the following for Lustre, which would apply to Jet as well -

If you are experiencing hazing on wipe off (as on some protective products it can take longer to adhere) wait 20-30 seconds before your second dry wipe.

Both products claim 6 months durability, however that doesn't necessarily mean it will last 12 months. So even if you end up sticking with Lustre only, you will still get decent longevity from it without Jet on top.