Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FASTXR

Hey DFB, what would you rate higher out of NV Nova EVO and CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 (in terms of application and longevity)?

I haven't used either, so I would need fordomatic to chime in here on this one as he's used both. I've heard arguments for and against both of those coatings.

[Top_Ghia]

You got me. NV evo, nv wheel, nv nova jet, nv boost V2, nv clarity.
I’m on the fence about glass and interior coatings. Someone push me off.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

You got me. NV evo, nv wheel, nv nova jet, nv boost V2, nv clarity.
I’m on the fence about glass and interior coatings. Someone push me off.

Don't coat interior surfaces, especially leather.

Glass is worth doing, especially if you do a lot of night time driving (bugs). I don't do a full coating on glass though, preferring to stick with the light duty products such as Gyeon Quick View.

In case you haven't ordered yet skip the NV Clarity prep spray, its not very good. NV Wheel is ok, but ADS Wheel Coating is the best available.

[T3rminator]

Found a tub of CT18 in the garage, not sure how long it had been there, read some good reviews so decided to give it a go. Results came out pretty good, a nice clean gloss look after a wash. Works, somewhat, on the crappy Gerni snow cannon too!

Don't really hear much about the CT18, but seems to be great value for $.

[fordomatic]

Nova Evo everyday of the week. Easier application, less maintenance, better gloss, lasts double the time.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Nova Evo everyday of the week. Easier application, less maintenance, better gloss, lasts double the time.

Sold. I ordered a bottle to play with

[stannoplan]

Originally Posted by FASTXR

Hey DFB, what would you rate higher out of NV Nova EVO and CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 (in terms of application and longevity)?

Chiming in late, have done several cars with both recently.

CQuartz UK3.0 is super easy to apply, better than some sprays to wipe off. I usually do 3 coats as its so simple, coat a panel, wipe off straight away or even half hour later, high spots just go over again.
On a maintained vehicle still beading like mad over 1year later, clogged up on a rarely washed outside car. Beads similar to the better spray coatings, impressed. Easily 1 year, seems likely to do 2.

Fordomatic recommended the Evo, now on my second bottle, I got 3 cars out of the first. Its noticeably thicker and the applicator is rubbish so I swapped to the Carpro one. Buff is also more work but not crazy hard, but the flashing/rainbow isnt as easy to spot either and more of a wait time, i generally did 2-3 panels before coming back to buff. However its great as only 1 coat is required and once you understand it, its easy to apply. Beading slightly behind the Carpro but not much, I tend to use toppers anyways so no drama.

The slickness isn't great (or terrible) for either but the Evo has the edge in gloss. Where the Evo excels is that it always looks so glossy and clean even if its dirty.

In the end I chose the Evo when I was out of both bottles, for $95 its a steal, $32 per car for a 3 year coating.

[DFB FGXR6]

Having ran the updated wide-mouth MTM foam cannon for a few months now, there is only one problem I have encountered, something I actually discovered very quickly.

I use a foam cannon with either soap or Brake Buster for wheel cleaning. I'm also seated when cleaning wheels, the stool and bucket on wheels so I can shuffle from wheel to wheel without getting up. This will sound like a first world problem, but with a bucket full of water and tools, there was nowhere to put the foam cannon when not in use. That was until Maxshine and MTM started offering a bracket to hang the foam cannon from the bucket. This of course was the perfect solution.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ee486336&_ss=r
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...e8721563&_ss=r





Having searched for something like that for ages, I even considered having one made for me, you can imagine my disappointment when I discovered the updated MTM bottle and cap arrangement is not compatible with either the Maxshine or MTM bracket.



I can't see how an updated version would work considering the lack of clearance between the foam cannon body and the black adaptor cap. So, I've been back to fumbling from wheel to wheel managing the stool, the pressure washer gun/hose, bucket and foam cannon.

My latest idea involves a foam cannon wall bracket that I spotted online.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWP2CTJ4...tem_image?th=1



These work different to regular quick connect fittings in that they a simple push to engage-release rather than pulling down the outer sleeve. I can't link a video, but the Amazon listing has a video showing it in action. These are actually very slick, way more precise than the budget price would indicate.



The plan is to mount the bracket to my detailing stool, which will have the foam cannon resting between my legs for quick and easy retravel. I think this should work, but like anything, it will be a case of trial and error.

[Top_Ghia]

Gave the Raptor a basic clean today using NV Snow in the foam cannon and for the contact wash. After toweling it dry I used NV Jet for the first time.
Ooh lah lah. Where have you been all my life?
I’ve never been that impressed with spray coatings. I like how slick Bowdens Own Fully Slick makes the paint feel.
Boss Gloss meh.
NV Boost heh.

The Raptors paint is quite good with no swirl marks and was ceramic coated when I got it. It gets daily driven in all conditions and was pretty dirty today as we’ve had a lot of rain and the roads are very dirty.
Nova Jet seemed to refresh the ceramic coating by adding depth to the gloss and adding saturation. I could actually see the difference of where I had applied Jet and where I hadn’t.

What else have I been missing out on?

[prydey]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

NV Boost heh.

NV boost v2 is better

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

What else have I been missing out on?

NV Lustre

[bangm001]

Sooo.... If i had to buy just one... Would it be Jet or Lustre? :-)

[bangm001]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Sooo.... If i had to buy just one... Would it be Jet or Lustre? :-)

Ok so after some light reading at work see that they are really used best in conjunction with each other!

Does either work if a car is already waxed?

[prydey]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Ok so after some light reading at work see that they are really used best in conjunction with each other!

Does either work if a car is already waxed?

I did this on my territory. Lustre first and then jet a few hours later, or even the following day. Can't remember. It worked very well.

When I bought the Everest I attempted to do the same thing but they didn't play nice together. Lustre first, then jet. Lustre went on fine. Super slick wipe off. When adding jet many hours later it went on fine but was quite grabby on wipe off. Left it for a bit longer and tried again the following day but it was the same. I persevered and got the car done but it was more effort. I tested a panel with boostv2 as well but was the same result.

I'm not sure why the difference but I'm not the only one to have the experience of them not playing nice together. It's odd because it worked great on the territory.

It was the same bottles which had been on the shelf for a few years ago perhaps that played a role.

The Everest is flat white so hard to make the paint pop however it is glossy and water does bead nicely so the coating still worked.

[Top_Ghia]

Originally Posted by prydey

NV boost v2 is better



NV Lustre

I’ve got a bottle of Boost V2 I’m yet to crack open.
I think I’ll add Lustre to my next order.
I might also try Snow+ for my more heavy duty applications.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Sooo.... If i had to buy just one... Would it be Jet or Lustre? :-)

Originally Posted by bangm001

Ok so after some light reading at work see that they are really used best in conjunction with each other!

Does either work if a car is already waxed?

Most people like to layer them, with Lustre going first, then topped with Jet after an hour or two. The Lustre gives the gloss and darkening effect, Jet provides a boost to the hydrophobics.

But....................I found Lustre to be a bit streaky, so I always preferred to use Jet on it's own. And yes, Jet can be layered over a wax to boost the longevity and hydrophobics. I've added Jet on top of Collinite 845 and Gyeon Q2 Wax with no issue, you sort of get the best of both worlds by doing that.

Personally, if I was looking at a ceramic spray sealant, I'm grabbing Koch Chemie S0.02 the most recently. Yes, I know the price is up there, but you do use very little per application, I've coated countless cars with a single bottle and still have plenty left. It doesn't streak either.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/koc...2&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...d3500aec&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/spray-sealant-s0-02/

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I’ve got a bottle of Boost V2 I’m yet to crack open.
I think I’ll add Lustre to my next order.
I might also try Snow+ for my more heavy duty applications.

Boost v1 was brilliant, v2 is much more impressive.

Because of the unique characteristics of Boost v1, I've been using it on wheels. The idea that a wash with Snow or a wheel cleaner removes it, taking contamination with it really suits the needs of wheel cleaning.

Boost v2 is a more conventional Si02 spray sealant, so it lasts longer and is glossier, apparently its a Jet-Lustre love child.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Boost v1 was brilliant, v2 is much more impressive.

Because of the unique characteristics of Boost v1, I've been using it on wheels. The idea that a wash with Snow or a wheel cleaner removes it, taking contamination with it really suits the needs of wheel cleaning.

Boost v2 is a more conventional Si02 spray sealant, so it lasts longer and is glossier, apparently its a Jet-Lustre love child.

Oops, that should have read "Boost v1 WASNT brilliant". As in it was ok, but not a benchmark.

[stannoplan]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Oops, that should have read "Boost v1 WASNT brilliant". As in it was ok, but not a benchmark.

I seem to find that Boost V1 seems to 'clean' my ceramic coatings when they get lightly clogged or seem to lose their properties. Spray on and the next wash it comes off and the beads are back for ages. I use v2 as a topper and V1 when clogged, works for me and getting near 2 years from my "1 year" ceramics.

I might try the K-C product but am getting good results with 303 Nano on my uncoated cars, did one last week with Bowden Bead Machine, that's a dream to use and so cheap. Too many bottles still nearly full, shouldn't really buy another, but I will.

[swamp]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

If I have read this correctly, does this mean you applied the water spot remover to a foam pad and worked it with a rotary polisher? If so, water spot removers are not used like that, rather sprayed onto the surface, allowed to dwell, then wiped with a towel and rinsed to neutralize the chemical.

hi
Water spot remover was from Mothers , I did wipe the ALL vertical glass with a very damp cloth but only mild results. Tried by hand then moved to small rotary .

Any products you recommend ??

[swamp]

hi

WOW yet another failed RUPES Bigfoot 15mm DA [Version 1 ]
1st speed controller after 6 cars
2nd controller failed after another 2 cars
Total 8 cars

Since these were sold at a very high eyewatering price u should expect more .

Alternates are around starting at 350$

--Rupes starts at 500-600 thru 1100
---A professional tool I had alot of luck is Flex Tool [German ]
Importer has changed for Flex and they import no pads or compounds
Flex tools are 700--1100

The DA machines are classified into 2 groups
Free random orbit
or
Forced rotation

Warning
Forced Rotation long throw DA and Random Long Throw DA both are very hard on pads . Only use recommended pads for each machine type

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by swamp

hi
Water spot remover was from Mothers , I did wipe the ALL vertical glass with a very damp cloth but only mild results. Tried by hand then moved to small rotary .

Any products you recommend ??

Ahhh, I see now. That product is more of polishing paste rather than a sprayable liquid.

Two possibilities here -

1. The product didn't have enough grunt to deal with this situation. Keep in mind this is a consumer grade product designed for "all abilities", these products are acidic, so that's probably a good thing. I'd suggest trying Carpro Spotless or Gyeon Water Spot Remover. However, it's likely the Mothers product has already removed the mineral content, which leads to possibility two.

2. The product has in fact removed the mineral deposits, but you are left with the visible damage. In this case, you need to polish the glass with either a specific glass compound (last resort, very messy) or just use a heavy cutting compound and a heavy foam/wool/microfiber pad.

CeriGlass is nasty stuff, but it will be the most aggressive here, best teamed with a Rayon pad -
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...i&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...d&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Clarity Creme is a great middle ground, team with a heavy cutting pad -
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...7b48b529&_ss=r

[swamp]

hi
Yes very very mild is the Mothers spot remover . Would not even recommend by hand for minor removal .
Situation was the Mica Black Yaris from Adelaide which has hard water for capitol city standards . Only 20,oookm in Adelaide so spotted quickly . Started life in Sydney .
Australian towns are way worse eg Alice Springs .

Used a hard foam pad 2-3 inch and aggressive cutting compound . Results were excellent .

[swamp]

hi
Since where talking glass.. Have u ever had to remove glass scratches .? Typically from hard/dirty widow seals,,finger nails , belt buckles etc

Don`t expect miracles but like to half the scratches in some 50yo glass .
I`ve already tried the chinese glass powder zero results . Also used the most aggresive paint compound with a hard pad .Funny results the glass is so clean it shows more scratches ,,,,LOL

Back ground
Restoration is like fishing stories the job never ends and always way bigger .
Scraped down 50yo noise proofing epoxied in side doors . rustproofed 100% 360 degree inside door .
Recon electric motors and regulator plus new rollers , removed minor surface rust /primed regulator arms
Removed glass holder channel new zinc plate and re rubber
Removed door latches , removed from protective bag,, cleaned and relubed

At least 2weeks work

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by swamp

hi
Since where talking glass.. Have u ever had to remove glass scratches .? Typically from hard/dirty widow seals,,finger nails , belt buckles etc

Don`t expect miracles but like to half the scratches in some 50yo glass .
I`ve already tried the chinese glass powder zero results . Also used the most aggresive paint compound with a hard pad .Funny results the glass is so clean it shows more scratches ,,,,LOL

Back ground
Restoration is like fishing stories the job never ends and always way bigger .
Scraped down 50yo noise proofing epoxied in side doors . rustproofed 100% 360 degree inside door .
Recon electric motors and regulator plus new rollers , removed minor surface rust /primed regulator arms
Removed glass holder channel new zinc plate and re rubber
Removed door latches , removed from protective bag,, cleaned and relubed

At least 2weeks work

Removing scratches from glass is extremely difficult, almost impossible. You could spend hours hammering down on a scratch only soften the edges. In this case, you would need something with cerium oxide (CeriGlass) and a rayon glass polishing pad, making sure that you manage heat for obvious reasons. It's also extremely messy.

And importantly, any polishing compound other than the ones based on Cerium Oxide is likely to be of inferior quality. CeO2 has been used for glass polishing (including in super-precise telescope reflectors) for over 100 years. Nothing else even comes close.

[DFB FGXR6]

Latest haul!



This is actually two orders, one from both Waxit and Detailing Shed. With the exception of NV Onyx and OG Drying Aid, these are all new-to-me products. You will note most of these are soaps, in particular soaps with "protection" in them. Of those, I'm most eager to try Hydr02 Foam and Ethos Ceramic Shampoo.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Latest haul!



image



This is actually two orders, one from both Waxit and Detailing Shed. With the exception of NV Onyx and OG Drying Aid, these are all new-to-me products. You will note most of these are soaps, in particular soaps with "protection" in them. Of those, I'm most eager to try Hydr02 Foam and Ethos Ceramic Shampoo.

Nice! I got a bottle of OG drying aid as well and I'm curious how you find Hydro foam.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

Nice! I got a bottle of OG drying aid as well and I'm curious how you find Hydro foam.

Have you used OG Drying Aid yet?

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Have you used OG Drying Aid yet?

Not yet. We're busy moving back into our house after the flood repairs. I haven't touched a car to wash in 2 months. Hopefully I can get the fleet back to my standard soon and I'll give the OG drying aid a try.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

Not yet. We're busy moving back into our house after the flood repairs. I haven't touched a car to wash in 2 months. Hopefully I can get the fleet back to my standard soon and I'll give the OG drying aid a try.

I think you will like it. Think almost Bead Maker gloss and slickness, but more forgiving to use. It will also work across all surfaces, glass, black plastic, paint, glass, rubber trims.

At the risk of sounding like a salesman, but I would put OG Tire Dressing on your list for next time. This is the product I'm using the most in recent months, the most excellent combination of a satin finish, ease of application, and an amazing scent. While it can do gloss, it's best applied and leveled down after 10 minutes to deliver a deep, dark satin finish. It's also one of the better choices for Michelin PS4S, which can be tricky to get a consistent result.

I just wish they still did the small 237 ml bottle to sample prior to spending big on the 946ml size. However, a bottle will easily last two years.................. a little goes a long way.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I think you will like it. Think almost Bead Maker gloss and slickness, but more forgiving to use. It will also work across all surfaces, glass, black plastic, paint, glass, rubber trims.



At the risk of sounding like a salesman, but I would put OG Tire Dressing on your list for next time. This is the product I'm using the most in recent months, the most excellent combination of a satin finish, ease of application, and an amazing scent. While it can do gloss, it's best applied and leveled down after 10 minutes to deliver a deep, dark satin finish. It's also one of the better choices for Michelin PS4S, which can be tricky to get a consistent result.



I just wish they still did the small 237 ml bottle to sample prior to spending big on the 946ml size. However, a bottle will easily last two years.................. a little goes a long way.



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Thanks, I will definitely give it a go. My current go to tyre dressing is Carpro DarkSide which I love, but I'm always open to try something else.