Common Problems with the AU??

[302XLS]

Problems...... hmmmmm where to start lol.... have had the car back for warrenty work with the instrument cluster with a faulty ground..... never fixed... the fan on high has stopped working....been replaced twice..... have had the power steering rack fall off and this is the best part.... cost me $200 for a tow truck, another 1500 to repair with a re-manufactured power steering rack, was told it was due to the people that have done my lowering removed a bolt..... HAHAHA what a load of crap..... two years later i got a recal notice from ford for this problem, but of course i don't have the receipt anymore and the dealership doesn't have a record of the work that was done..... ford denied all resposibility and basically told me too bad.

[Lil Monty]

Missing AU Fairmont/ Ghia Climate control digital segments? It's an easy fix!!!

1.0 Tools Required;
1.1 Phillips head and flat blade screw drivers
1.2 Cloths iron
1.3 Baking paper

2.0 Remove climate control unit from dash;
2.1 Removing clock surround, allowing access to retaining screw, remove screw,
2.2 Pull unit forward and to the left, unplugging 1 air sensor and 2 electrical plugs.
2.3 Unit should now slide right out

3.0 Dis-assemble control unit;
3.1 Depress and pull plastic retaining legs where appropriate
3.2 Slide unit out rear of casing.

4.0 Re-attach control ribbon
4.1 Pre-heat iron to sub steam temperature
4.2 Clean/ trim ribbon and contacts if required (do not use solvent as will destroy ribbon/ adherence)
4.3 Re-align ribbon with circuit contacts
4.4 Place baking paper on top or ribbon to stop ribbon melting onto iron
4.5 With moderate pressure, press iron onto ribbon and contacts
4.6 Check contacts/ test in car before refitting into casing.

5.0 Re-assemble in reverse order

[blackers10]

is that the permanant fix lil monty?

does that fix the distance to empty etc display also??

[robertjp]

Has anyone got this problem with there climate control. The controller will set a fan spped which will only go higher, not lower and remains on when the car is turned of. Pulling out the fuse is the only way of turning of the heater/cooling fan. Is the fan speed controller the same across the AU's or is the one for the climate control models special in some ways?

Looking forward to your replies.

[Lil Monty]

Originally Posted by blackers10

is that the permanant fix lil monty?

does that fix the distance to empty etc display also??

You bet! It is actually one big display with 42 pin connector, that resides behind a plastic divider so it looks like two displays...

I dont think the original manufacturer used enough heat or pressure to secure the ribon.

Even if the display ribbon does detach again, you can always redo the procedure. As previously noted, due to the generous length of shrink ribbon, you can trim back the ribbon to virgin material, peal back the protective coating, clean the contacts and re-apply!

I have ordered 4 off t5 t6.5 3 led wide angle bulbs to replace to original t5 bulbs as I also suspected that sometimes au fords electrics go into over-voltage, extra heating the unit and blowing the T5's filaments, which would also explain why the au's eat h4 bulbs for breakfast... That was until I replaced my headlamps with Phillips Long life All Weather (Green/ Yellow colour) lamps, (no longer in production), which I have stocked up on!

[The Monty]

Thats awesome info Mini me, I mean lil monty, lol.

[lohnro]

My passenger side front window is stuck down. I am trying to remove the window from the brackets that drive it up and down without much success. I am getting voltage to the motor but it is not turning. I reckon the motor is shot but need to get the window off it first.
Anyone got any ideas on how to get it up somehow before it rains. You can bet it will rain like mad tonight.

[congo3sr]

Originally Posted by lohnro

Anyone got any ideas on how to get it up somehow

VIAGRA
sorry,I couldnt help myself :

[mitchelliib]

Hey,

Having alot of trouble with my AU 1 tonne ute, its a 2000 model.

Whenever the car heats up the engine dies! then it wont start for about 5 minutes after that. It broke down about 7 times on the way home the other day. I had it completely re-wired at the auto elec because the fuse box was stuffed but that didnt fix the problem.. but yeah it only seems to happen on a hot day or when the car has been going for a while.. Im thinking something to do with the fuel lines??? any help would be great coz the mechanics didnt!

[Stav]

There are aftermarket drive belts for the six which are overtight.These may lead to front cylinder bearing failure due to excessive force. If you get a new belt and its a little difficult to put on then throw it away or go and get your money back.

[lpgguy]

Originally Posted by Sylox

All au's have this rust problem sedans / utes / wagons even the BA's suffer from it.

you will find varying degree's of rust.

On my AUIII sedan, I find mild surface rust on the inside of the boot lid around the edges that isn't sealed by the boot rubber seal. This is because when it rains and when you wash the car - the water doesn't dry quick because it's not exposed to the air or wind to dry it up. Also with this the drainage corner at the back end of the the boot lid drain (left and right corners) tend to get surface rust because it doesn't drain well there (a little flat spot).

Unfortunately, you will also find that it gets surface rust on the inside of your rear tail light housing - just remove your rear tail lights (they come out easy by unscrewing from the inside - but wiring remains attached) and you will see the surface rust in the now vacant housing. This is because the tailights are not sealed with any goo and every time you wash yer car under pressure, water shoots straight in there and can't dry out well. I am wondering if the front light housing has the same problem - but front lights are much harder to take out.

Solution: Ring your local ford dealer panel beater - take it to them - show them the rust and they should agree to fix it - they will use a mini sand blower to rid the surface rust an re-touch it up with fresh paint. Needs to be under 5 years old for the 5 year rust warranty an AUIII's (don't know about AU/AUII's).

[lpgguy]

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

So far I have noticed the fuel gauge problem on my EGAS AUII XLS.

Only sometimes it will just go dead empty and show DTE - 0 ... but slowly climbs back up to the right capacity (takes about 30 min to do so though).

Has happened a few times ... once after stopping really hard ... strange ... other times it just shows empty when starting ... I turn the car off and then on again .... and it rights itself.

Funny, exactly the same problem has happened on my AUIII dedicated gas sedan - and just the same as you the empty reading clears itself after turning the engine on and off a couple of times. The only difference with me was that once while I fiddled with it without turning the engine off - it read a totally full tank - went from one extreme to the other. Only happened twice in 3.5 years of ownership.

[Mechan1k]

The connections get a bit of a dodgy connection ... and the contacts in tne connects need to cleaned ... usually unplug and a plug back in will fix it as it will get a better contact again.

I was going to clean my contacts ... but found the connecters under the back of the ute are watertight connects that "pop" together ... but after a few unplug/plug/unplug/plug back in ... it seemed fine for a while .... but there are a few connections here and there that need to be done.

[MYEBII]

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

The connections get a bit of a dodgy connection ... and the contacts in tne connects need to cleaned ... usually unplug and a plug back in will fix it as it will get a better contact again.

I was going to clean my contacts ... but found the connecters under the back of the ute are watertight connects that "pop" together ... but after a few unplug/plug/unplug/plug back in ... it seemed fine for a while .... but there are a few connections here and there that need to be done.

Ford do have a TSB on the ba regading this problem,not sure if it will fix it on the au

[Mechan1k]

I know there is a fix for the contacts in the plug on the senders ... you need to pull the entire connector apart and move the contacts slightly so they have a tighter connection when you plug it back in.

But this doesn't always fix it ... it's usually a case of replacing the senders in the end ... cos if water does get into the back of the sender mechanism they eventually fail.

[DODDO]

Hi
I've owned my AU1 for 2.5 years and before that my parents owned it for 3 years.
It had done:
Discs machined at 40,000k-Warranty
Gearbox rear seal at 50,000k-Warranty
Radiator repalced 70,000k-Out of warranty
Waterpump bearing noisy 110,000-Fixed myself
Belt Idler bearings noisy 110,000-Fixed myself
Power steering hose weeping 120,000-Fixed myself
Diff bearings noisy 135,000-Had rebuilt (and its not from burnouts, its never done a smoke show)

Its been a great car to us. Ive come back from QLD not long ago. I drove the 12 hours straight, only stopping for 1 Fuel stop (i could have go nearly all the way there on 1 tank, but i dont like getting below 1/4 tank)
Its a great car, great on Fuel on the highway got 7.8ltrs/100k. REALLY happy.
Not so good on fuel around town gets around 13ltrs100k.
I recommend the AU to anyone. If you treat it right, it will treat you right!

[FGII-XR6]

Originally Posted by sbutler

Give it a go !! It fixed mine, remember 31 times. :

The volume control? that will be the rings in the steering column, you have to take the steering wheel off, clean & lube the rings, that should fix it......

sorry to tell u this but the au does not have sliprings they use a clock spring and they don't have the same issues as the sliprings it's the button itself

[philt]

Hi All,

My first post. I am a long time reader taking advantage of all the info you guys supply. I, like you all, am an AU owner (I have my third one)and I have had all the elec window probs, coolant leaks, front end knocks etc etc like you all.

But I have a funny problem. I have just got in my car this arvo and the "restraints system malfunction warning indicator" light flashed then stayed on. It normally stays on for 8 secs when you start then it goes off. But mine is staying on.The book says take it into you Ford dealer ASAP (it says this for all light malfunctions).

Has antone else had this happen to them and does anyone know what this means as I am selling this car this week and I want to know if this may be costly.

Thnaks again guys for all you help.

Phil

[Mechan1k]

I am presuming the airbag light is flashing a code ... mine does it in wet weather as well.

It usually means an open circuit ... most of the time it is due to a dodgy connection with the connectors under the front seats. Either that or the clockspring on the end of the steering column ... but it doesn't look like a spring though.

Other than that it's due to a bad connection or bad earth.

Also heard it can be due to a dodgy connection with the seat belt wiring in the B-pillars as well.

When the airbag light is illuminated ... it means it will not go off in an accident ... at first i though it meant it could go off without warning (breathed a sigh of relief after reading the manual though).

There's a list of about 40 or so codes.

To decipher the code when initiall turning the vehicle on ... example for code 18 ... the airbag jewel will flash once ... then pause ... then flash 8 times ... then pause again and repeat the process 3 times ... then it will stay on solid.

There is an incomplete listing on the forum somewhere (I have seen it ... can't remember where) ... Ford will have the full listing though.

[Stav]

The dam thermostat goes on them.If the top water hose is cold and the bottom is hot then the thermostat is cactus.

The dam head bolts which are supposed to be torqued down and left seem to come loose. If you do your cylinder head...retorque the head after 1 week

[mangold05]

AU1 fairmont... Just replaced lcd dash display for multi function computer/air control etc, Ford wanted nearly $900.00 for new one. Got exchange unit with 12 months warranty sent up from Melbourne for $120.00 off ebay site. Could.nt believe it, works great and includes ford bulbs that cost $10 each. Happy as Larry

[passout2000]

Originally Posted by Racecraft

Item:- Front Power Windows
Problems: Slow to go up, Going up slighty sideways and/or tilting
Cause:- THe window slides inside the rubber and after time the rubber section starts to close and binds on the window glass
Fixes:- Always keep the rubbers on the inside of the door frames slighty lubed with silicon spray or graphite powder. A bit of this should be added to your detailing pack and everytime you give it a polish apply alittle to stop the window binding up
Cost:- $10/$15 for a large can of silicon spray

Item:- Front Window switches
Problems:- window won't go up or down occasionally, or switch will not reset itself to neutral.
Cause:- The the switch somehow fill with ash, dust or lint. Eventually reducing the contact points
Solutions: With a large flatblade s/driver pop the whole insert from the door, unplug then tap out the switch.
Then using a small flatblade remove the switch button from the housing, tip it upside down and wait for the contact strip and the two small acuator spacers to fall out.
Grab some cotton buds (cue-tips i think they are called) and poke around getting all the loose dirt out of the housing. Give the contact strip a wipe and light scuff with some paper, the head of the small s/driver will do, a drop of dry lube if you have it then reassemble.
Cost:- $2 for 100 cue tips and $5 for some dry lube
(maybe a photo tutorial would be better)

I dont know if this is the correct place to respond to but to cure the sticky window problem ford sell a lube that will make the windows work almost forever. Costs about $60.00. It is much better than any other type of lube.

cheers

[Stav]

Thermo fans should cut in at a slightly lower temperature.The eseries fan is a much better system despite its parasitic power losses.its on from the word go!!

[Mechan1k]

Stav ... I have a custom setup now in the ute ... when I turn A/C on in warmer weather ... I have all fans come on high-speed ... not just when you select Fan speed 3 and above ... it comes on straight away ... and does make a hell of a difference.

Not sure on the exact work done ... but 2 extra relays were used and wired up to the existing thermo relays and also the A/C compressor as well.

[slo351]

im looking at a AU xr8 230k's on it.. blown head gasket.. simple fix or more than likely cracked head ?
cheers Ash

[Stav]

Interesting mate. I saw my dads 1992 fairlane and its fan is on from the moment you turn the key. I have 3 fans on my car. The 2 standard ones and a third which I installed. I am going to buy a thermal switch and have them come on when I see fit. They definately come on too late imo so I want this puppy alot cooler in normal operation.

My engine bay gets very hot with extractors and now I know why e series are much much cooler in the engine bay..

[spikeman]

Hi everyone. I'm new here, so no yelling at me. Yet anyway...

I have a 2001 AUII Fairlane V6 with 111,000 on the clock. About 3 times last week, the car went into neutral when I was driving. A few presses of the 'go' pedal and all that happened was the engine reving. After a few seconds, it re-engaged and off I went again.

I thought all was fine, as I had only been driving the car for a couple of minutes and put it down to the engine/gearbox being cold.

It happened again yesterday, once again after I had been driving only for a couple of minutes.

Question is, is this something I should be worried about? Is it something anyone else has had problems with?

I think all the mechanicals are the same in the Fairlane as in AU Falcons. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

Love this forum.

Cheers!

[Casper]

Originally Posted by spikeman

Hi everyone. I'm new here, so no yelling at me. Yet anyway...

I have a 2001 AUII Fairlane V6 with 111,000 on the clock.

We promise not to yell at you if you promise to never refer to the engine as a V6 again. I6 as it is an "Inline" 6, not a V configuration like the Holdens.

[spikeman]

Oh yeah. My bad. :

[slo351]

i would be checking the tranny oil and seeing if it's got enuf..