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Old 06-12-2009, 09:56 AM   #511
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Airbag light could be blown fuse - check all fuses (better yet, replace the airbag ones)
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Old 06-12-2009, 01:19 PM   #512
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The air bag will not go off unless you crash. Also it depends on the code if it will go off in a crash or not.
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Old 06-12-2009, 04:49 PM   #513
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speaking of air bag, every one on here nos i had the accident, just wondering, where that sensor is, becuase i hit the lower suppot bar, behind the front bumper dead straight doing 40 kms and hour and pushed the bar in and the air bag didnt go off
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 06-12-2009, 04:56 PM   #514
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as far as I am aware in AUSTRALIA you need to be doing in excess of 45kmh to set off the airbag(lower in america from what i recall).. otherwise they would go off in shopping centre carparks if you tapped sombody.. and if you hit the dash at that speed your a rag doll and need to grow a spine lol..
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Old 06-12-2009, 06:08 PM   #515
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If you werent injured enough for hospital admission, then the airbag wont go off. Why would the airbag go off if you hit the rad support? The crash isnt going to hurt you, but if the air bag woul have gone off, you could have had a broken arm/nose, and probably burns. No use the airbags going off and doing more damage than what is going to be caused by the accident itself, otherwise they wouldnt be allowed to be fitted.
Get what Im saying?
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Old 06-12-2009, 06:39 PM   #516
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Thanks Whiskers, JC and Beer Baron.
I'll have to go have a quick look at the fuses. I did notice earlier today that its gone back to intermitently being lit up and it may even have to do with the rotation of the steering wheel.
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Old 06-12-2009, 06:50 PM   #517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urbancowboy


Airbag light was intermitently lighting on the dash, today has decided to stay on. Should i be concerned the airbag could go off in my face at any moment????



Any light shed on these final few issues would be appreciated.
When you turn acc on, does the airbag light flash a few times, then stop and flash again, then stay on.
If so count how many times it flashes, then a pause, then count the flashes again.
It could be the clock spring, very common.
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Old 07-12-2009, 01:22 AM   #518
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Thanks Galaxy XR8,

I forgot to check the fuses, but that's because when i drove it this arvo it was lit up initially then went off as per normal! Then the same tonight when i drove it home again! But i will write myself a post-it note to check the fuse and to try it with the aircon on to see if it flashes as you've suggested.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the front end squeek may be? its not grindy sounding and its like its only a small section of when the front left wheel is rotating, as in you hear it up to about 30kph then its gone, but also it sometimes isnt there at all! I might just get new wheel bearing done to eliminate that.
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:54 PM   #519
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Thanks for all the help ppl, and also the search feature!
I've worked it must be the clock spring as tonight i drove it and for a short while and i was able to control the light by the steering wheel, i.e. straight no light, turn a fraction and it light up!
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:45 AM   #520
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The clock spring is a common problem, but the amount of time's the airbag light flashes then pause's and flashes again is the code that denotes the exact problem.
If you want to be sure.
But I will put my money on the clock spring.
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Old 27-12-2009, 04:32 PM   #521
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Default CD Stuck

Item:- CD Player
Problems: CD won't eject - Starts to but gets stuck before exiting the front slot.
Cause:- Slippery CD
Fixes:- Remove complete stereo. Remove lid. With a small flat blade screw driver, carefully turn the small white gear on the left side of the CD player towards you. Eventually the CD will come out. Test loading/unloading with a different CD.
Cost:- $0 if you do it yourself. Less than an hours work.
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Old 28-12-2009, 09:39 AM   #522
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:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecraft
Item:- Front Power Windows
Problems: Slow to go up, Going up slighty sideways and/or tilting
Cause:- THe window slides inside the rubber and after time the rubber section starts to close and binds on the window glass
Fixes:- Always keep the rubbers on the inside of the door frames slighty lubed with silicon spray or graphite powder. A bit of this should be added to your detailing pack and everytime you give it a polish apply alittle to stop the window binding up
Cost:- $10/$15 for a large can of silicon spray

Item:- Front Window switches
Problems:- window won't go up or down occasionally, or switch will not reset itself to neutral.
Cause:- The the switch somehow fill with ash, dust or lint. Eventually reducing the contact points
Solutions: With a large flatblade s/driver pop the whole insert from the door, unplug then tap out the switch.
Then using a small flatblade remove the switch button from the housing, tip it upside down and wait for the contact strip and the two small acuator spacers to fall out.
Grab some cotton buds (cue-tips i think they are called) and poke around getting all the loose dirt out of the housing. Give the contact strip a wipe and light scuff with some paper, the head of the small s/driver will do, a drop of dry lube if you have it then reassemble.
Cost:- $2 for 100 cue tips and $5 for some dry lube
(maybe a photo tutorial would be better)
My Left Hand window switch hadn't worked for months but I could operate the passenger window from the drivers side. Thanks to your tips I pulled the left hand switch apart cleaned it and it is working fine....... Thanks so much it was so easy.
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:27 AM   #523
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Any suggestions where to get a new Au Xr8 Series III radiator? Mines started leaking.
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:05 PM   #524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venomous1
Any suggestions where to get a new Au Xr8 Series III radiator? Mines started leaking.
Ebay/supercheap/autobarn etc, any AU radiator will fit. Look for one with a thick core. e.g. this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RADIATOR-FORD...item2ea7c8e090
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:48 PM   #525
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thanks.
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Old 14-03-2010, 07:31 PM   #526
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The battery just died in mine. Racq sold century and its just over 2 years old. Out of warranty by 3 months. Bloke told me i dont drive enough!!! 9500 ks a year. I would not ever buy a century again, gave me the run around big time when i asked the question.
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Old 14-03-2010, 10:43 PM   #527
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9500 a year!! That's bugger all
I know of alot of weekender type cars get flat batteries as the cells don't get charged etc and die
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Old 07-06-2010, 05:45 PM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackers10
9500 a year!! That's bugger all
I know of alot of weekender type cars get flat batteries as the cells don't get charged etc and die
Yep, don't blame the battery. Particularly if you use the lights, wipers etc, the car never get a chance to charge the battery up to full. Takes many hours of driving to charge up the battery properly. azza, invest in a trickle charger, one that you can leave connected to the battery all the time. They use bugger all electricity, cost about $90, and will make your battery last for many years.
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Old 26-06-2010, 09:55 PM   #529
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I've owned mine for almost 2 years and only done 4000 ;)
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Old 27-06-2010, 09:21 AM   #530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teflon Turbo
i think for key reprgamming is put key in ignition, turn to accessories, press the demister button 3 time in quickly, then the system cycles, doors lock etc.. and that's it from memory??
Thats for keypad - I did it yesterday.

Key is put original in turn to pos I, pull out, put second key in and turn to II. Something like that. I could look up manual if needed.
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Old 23-08-2010, 09:23 PM   #531
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Just got an AUIII Futura. Have owned an AU1 and AU2 Forte 5 years ago as well.

I've also worked in the taxi industry from 1999-2006 and spent many hours inside/outside AUs, as well as working on them.

With the one I just picked up, I've had to replace the timing chain tensioner o-ring and fix the window switches. I also replaced the steering wheel with a leather XR one as the standard types commonly wear away to nothing. The keypad battery connector commonly falls out as well, so my fix was to put a small rubber seal between the pad cover and battery. Problem solved. S5 solenoid needs replacing but apart from that it's actually quite a nice car to drive considering it has 343,xxx kms on the odometer.

These cars go forever.
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:08 PM   #532
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[QUOTE=Racecraft]Item:- Front Power Windows

Item:- Front Window switches
Problems:- window won't go up or down occasionally, or switch will not reset itself to neutral.


Not quite sure if this is where I need to be, but 1st thank you very much to those who shared their power window problems and fixes, you saved me a lot of hard work and possible unecessary expense, my AU futura would not wind up the LHF window, only done 43,000 kms, so having the LHF door trim stripped down and just about to try and remove the motor / regulator, which almost seemed impossible as the glass was bottomed, and seemed impossible to get up without more dismantling, looking around this forum found the solution, I removed the switch LHF, cleaned the contacts, which had a light brown stain, all non smokers in this car, smokers either don't smoke or they walk, anyway sprayed CRC into it, not attempted dismantling, but still no go, removed the switch from RHF drivers side window, did the same procedure, and great joy every thing was back to normal, all windows wound up or down no problem, it must be the RHF was the one that had resistance somewhere, and wasn't feeding power to the LHF side, so thanks again everyone.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:41 PM   #533
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Guys anyone know how i get to the drivers side rear seat belt as it wont retract. Its in my au 99 model
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:54 AM   #534
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Default that's when the trouble started

well I've got an AU 2 tradesman ute 11/2001 and I was pretty happy with it, I had even got over the poor fuel economy but thats when the trouble started....
the roof lining started falling off $120.00 easy and fairly cheap, exhaust section between cat and muffler $140.00 not too bad, air con started cutting in and out and temp gauge started cutting in and out and then all of the dash instruments ARRRR still not fixed, sprayed electrical connections with some crc worked for a month or so but still a problem. started getting hot in town, got the radiator and engine flushed and replaced thermostat, $300 wife started getting cranky (this car is costing us a fortune) found red oil in coolant!!! common problem for automatics!!! apparently the auto trans fluid runs through the radiator and they corrode putting coolant in the trans (sometimes) and/or trans fluid in the coolant, killing the transmission luckily I was only up for $520.00 for the radiator and the trans has been ok, harmonic balancer and 180K service $550.00
so all up in the last 12 months $1630.00 and I still have and electrical, over heating and air con problem ARRRRRRR they might all be related so I am going to check the thermo fans today I think the over heating might be that I have lost the low speed thermo fan the temp gauge still sits between N and O on normal but it smells hot (can smell coolant and it feels a lot hotter than it should) in diagnostic it says 92 deg which sounds normal from what I read on the forums but any help would be appreciated.
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Old 21-09-2010, 10:15 AM   #535
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Default My probs with the Au2

Looks like most AU problems are here. Mine over the last 5 years. AU2 2000 Wagon.
Valve regression- New head $1500.
Door actuators (2) $120
Speakers( seperated(2) ebay $15
Rear g/box seal $80
Front rotors New $220. maching X 2 $80
Hand brake looses adjustment quickly.

An odd fault ## passenger door windows rattle down(always check before car wash)
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Old 21-09-2010, 10:27 AM   #536
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Front rotors would be a wear and tear problem
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 24-09-2010, 03:28 PM   #537
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My problem started only the other day, the LCD display on the dash cluster (Trip meter, Odometer, ECT) doesn't light up.
I've replaced both bulbs and checked all fuses,they seem fine as far as I can tell.
Also I have noticed that now I dont get the DTE audible warning, I am assuming that the two are related.

Has anybody had this problem before if so how did you fix it?
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Old 30-09-2010, 01:21 PM   #538
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Did the production of the series III get rid of most of these common problems with the SI and II
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:51 AM   #539
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wagon wheels, Buy a new seat belt, you wont be allowed by law to repair it and a second hand one really isnt a smart move! Would you put a second hand seat belt on your drivers seat? i doubt it!
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:24 AM   #540
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Finally sorted the seat belt. Now the problem is when i turn the engine off and pull the key out, the orange light is on in the air recirculating switch, the one that lets in air or just recirculates in on the dash beside the fan speed nob draining the battery. If i turn the speed nob on it turns the orange light off. Anyone had this happen before
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