TDCI Focus

[RadioactiveX]

Hi all, at what speeds do you usually change each gears especially to get to the 6th gear?

[Franco Cozzo]

I don't use 6th gear at anything lower than 100km/h, if I'm doing 90km/h on cruise because of someone in front of me I keep it in 5th otherwise you drop the revs too low in 6th even though the car will still pull along.

Overtaking I always go back to 4th at 100km/h to get her moving.

Most of the time I shift up by 2500 RPM, but if I'm hammering it she pulls freakin' hard up to redline now, no more struggle past 3500 RPM like when it was factory.

Also car has back in the shop due to the tune being a touch too smokey off boost, but they've found an issue which explains some of the issues I had with the car in the past even when it was stock.

Appears the in tank lift pump has died some time ago and the car was relying on the injection pump to pull the fuel out of the tank.

So once thats replaced it will be interesting to see how we go.

[s00ty]

Quick question for the guys with aftermarket sway bars, are they the same part as the ones for the XR5/ST? I imagine they would be due to the same chassis?

[Franco Cozzo]

I can't remember with mine, you need to change the rear links, if you look back through this thread there might be a link to the bar I bought.

[kevino]

What did the in tank lift pump cost Damo?

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by kevino

What did the in tank lift pump cost Damo?

We found out it doesn't actually even have one.

It relies solely on vacuum from the injection pump to pull it out of the tank and up to itself.

Which explains why these things are a real pain in the *** to bleed the fuel system when you change a fuel filter.

So we've got no idea where the metal shavings came from.

[Franco Cozzo]

Well its been nearly 5 years since I posted in this thread

Its got a new factory turbo on it these days put on at 120,000km or there abouts, still running 23 PSI and 103KW/fronts last dyno tune.

She's gone in for her first major service at 188,000km.

The harmonic balancer bolt came out about 10mm then sheared, panicked workshop has called in a thread specialist to try remove whats left of it out of the crankshaft.

Also its perished the seal on the intake pipe going from airbox to turbo compressor inlet flange, unfortunately obsolete part from Ford and virtually nill availability locally from wreckers, looking like I'm going to have to get a second handy out of Europe.

Still not up for a set of brake pads and rotors yet - still has the originals it came out of the factory with, will upgrade to slotted rotors all round when due and Remsa pads.

[kevino]

You drive it too hard Franco. And don't use the brakes enough. Seriously that's great mileage for your original brakes, did mine at 150000.

Have you done the timing chain/belt water pump tensioner due at 200k ?
have you replaced the shocks etc yet.

They are a great car these TDCI, s with the six speed. Sold mine at 278000km was still going like a train.

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by kevino

You drive it too hard Franco. And don't use the brakes enough. Seriously that's great mileage for your original brakes, did mine at 150000.

Have you done the timing chain/belt water pump tensioner due at 200k ?
have you replaced the shocks etc yet.

They are a great car these TDCI, s with the six speed. Sold mine at 278000km was still going like a train.

Yeah just got it back on Thursday, went in for its major at 189,000km.

Timing chain/belt, its tensioner, had the water pump replaced, all the engine and trans mounts and all fluids, coolant flush, power steering flush, etc.

I sourced all genuine parts, still have an account with a Ford dealership which is handy so it gets all OEM parts come service time, wasn't too bad it all came to about $1200 for all genuine stuff sans fluids.

Its like a new world, no dash vibrating anymore from toasted engine mounts, interestingly the mounts didn't appear to be damaged/torn but its a night and day difference with the car now, it used to vibrate the bonnet at idle and the windscreen and dash, now nothing, so smooth.

I've had the full set of shocks 3x - its on its second full set of Bilstein B8s the car is lowered 30mm and has shortened shocks to match.

It needs a windscreen next, its been cracked pretty badly from top left to near the rear vision mirror for about 2 years but haven't bothered to have it replaced.

Still does 5.5L/100km and I beat the hell out of it, its had a real rough life.

Pads still seem to have meat left on them so I reckon I'm going to go 200,000km+ on the factory rotors and pads.

Mechanically the car is good but the body has issues, it leaks water from the rear 1/4 windows and both taillight assemblies into the boot, its been abused on dirt roads and constantly pulls an overloaded 6x4 trailer on the regular though

I'll eventually retire it and it'll become the spare car or unless it does something expensive like an injection pump then it'll get a viking funeral I reckon, I commute 30,000km+/year just driving to and from work these days so its cheap to get me about.

[kevino]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Yeah just got it back on Thursday, went in for its major at 189,000km.

Timing chain/belt, its tensioner, had the water pump replaced, all the engine and trans mounts and all fluids, coolant flush, power steering flush, etc.

I sourced all genuine parts, still have an account with a Ford dealership which is handy so it gets all OEM parts come service time, wasn't too bad it all came to about $1200 for all genuine stuff sans fluids.

Its like a new world, no dash vibrating anymore from toasted engine mounts, interestingly the mounts didn't appear to be damaged/torn but its a night and day difference with the car now, it used to vibrate the bonnet at idle and the windscreen and dash, now nothing, so smooth.

I've had the full set of shocks 3x - its on its second full set of Bilstein B8s the car is lowered 30mm and has shortened shocks to match.

It needs a windscreen next, its been cracked pretty badly from top left to near the rear vision mirror for about 2 years but haven't bothered to have it replaced.

Still does 5.5L/100km and I beat the hell out of it, its had a real rough life.

Pads still seem to have meat left on them so I reckon I'm going to go 200,000km+ on the factory rotors and pads.

Mechanically the car is good but the body has issues, it leaks water from the rear 1/4 windows and both taillight assemblies into the boot, its been abused on dirt roads and constantly pulls an overloaded 6x4 trailer on the regular though

I'll eventually retire it and it'll become the spare car or unless it does something expensive like an injection pump then it'll get a viking funeral I reckon, I commute 30,000km+/year just driving to and from work these days so its cheap to get me about.

At 189000 its only at half life!
The front air dam fell off mine at 110kmhr just drove on wonderered what that noise was-my indy got one from a wrecker.
I had a seat trimmer redo the seat. Mine didn't leak but was getting noisy round the window seals etc.
My replacement car is a LZ 6 speed manual not as gutsy as the TDCI but a bit more refined maybe a bit more effeminate -the tdci is a macho car.
Its done 123000kms big commute like you. Sadly as I scour carsales.com.au it appears the next car will be an auto round about 2015 manuals took a big dive. I keep coming up with a another Focus as a replacement … 2019 SA Trend say 12000kms second hand 19990$ but bloody auto. To get a manual in say a reasonably priced 2018-2019 car its either a non turbo (no thanks) Jap or Korean or a VAG Vw or Skoda. I don't know whether a 70 kw manual Fabia or Polo will cut it and Golf is pricier. There is a 6 speed manual Skoda Scala with a 250kw 1.5 due soon which is tasty but $26990 is probably past the amount I ll raid out of my super. Sigh.

[marg99]

safety is the death for maunals as many of the auto braking , adaptive cruise and pedestrian avoidance systems would cause a manual to stall

[kevino]

What are you driving now marg 99. Remember you were a TDCI owner.

[marg99]

sold the TDCI to a student who wanted low running costs. Now have a skoda

[Franco Cozzo]

I had a spin in a new Focus ST Line with the 1.5L I3T engine, it's not a bad car but it's not that much chop with that engine, though I imagine with some mods it'll liven up.

I think it was 8sp auto.

If you want a manual a Fiesta ST is a good buy on the second hand market, we've got a WZ Fiesta ST and it's given us 115,000km of trouble free motoring, except it's done an engine mount.

Does 6L/100km with the old man driving (6.45L/100km with me), it has the Mountune package bringing it up to 159KW/320NM so it moves along well being 200kg lighter than my Focus.

Only averages 500ml-1L more per 100km than my TDCI Focus but is much faster without the added expense of diesel maintenance.

[kevino]

Marg 99 what model Skoda are you running, and manual or auto and how do you find it?

Franco thanks for the tip on WZ Fiesta ST -I,ll add this to my look at list.

[marg99]

its a kodiaq with the vw group 140 kw diesel and has a DSG. lovely car but between the diesel and dsg a bit slow off the mark unlike the LT focus which went quicker The petrol version is lacking in mid range torque

[kevino]

Even in sport mode?

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Yeah just got it back on Thursday, went in for its major at 189,000km.

Timing chain/belt, its tensioner, had the water pump replaced, all the engine and trans mounts and all fluids, coolant flush, power steering flush, etc.

I sourced all genuine parts, still have an account with a Ford dealership which is handy so it gets all OEM parts come service time, wasn't too bad it all came to about $1200 for all genuine stuff sans fluids.

Its like a new world, no dash vibrating anymore from toasted engine mounts, interestingly the mounts didn't appear to be damaged/torn but its a night and day difference with the car now, it used to vibrate the bonnet at idle and the windscreen and dash, now nothing, so smooth.

I've had the full set of shocks 3x - its on its second full set of Bilstein B8s the car is lowered 30mm and has shortened shocks to match.

It needs a windscreen next, its been cracked pretty badly from top left to near the rear vision mirror for about 2 years but haven't bothered to have it replaced.

Still does 5.5L/100km and I beat the hell out of it, its had a real rough life.

Pads still seem to have meat left on them so I reckon I'm going to go 200,000km+ on the factory rotors and pads.

Mechanically the car is good but the body has issues, it leaks water from the rear 1/4 windows and both taillight assemblies into the boot, its been abused on dirt roads and constantly pulls an overloaded 6x4 trailer on the regular though

I'll eventually retire it and it'll become the spare car or unless it does something expensive like an injection pump then it'll get a viking funeral I reckon, I commute 30,000km+/year just driving to and from work these days so its cheap to get me about.

Just shy of 200,000km now, still good on pads it seems from a quick inspection, appear to be getting close to needing rear pads but the fronts look like a good 50% left, not bad given both front and rear have never been changed.

Gotta get it in for its service soon.

[Franco Cozzo]

Did the starter motor tonight - 202,000km on the clock.

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Did the starter motor tonight - 202,000km on the clock.

I roll started it yesterday morning, and suddenly killed the alternator, wow off to a great start

Anyway got it back today,

Starter motor (I supplied)
Alternator (I supplied)
Alternator wiring loom (has a 280A fusible link in it)
Minor service
4x tyres (was due for tyres)

$3600 all up

The alternator had been giving electrical noise through the stereo for a while, I'm not sure why the roll start finished it off and the fusible link in the wiring loom but it doesn't surprise me.

[kevino]

Whew!
$3600!

[marg99]

close to the value of the car but at least you know whats fixed.

[Franco Cozzo]

Yeah, its more of a case not what it costs to fix but what it costs to replace, its cheaper to spend $3600 to keep it on the road again for a while compared to spending $15K-$20K out of savings to replace it with something decent second hand

If it does something like a serious mechanical failure like a gearbox or uncle rodney pops out to say hello then she'll be going for a viking funeral I reckon.

[kevino]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Yeah, its more of a case not what it costs to fix but what it costs to replace, its cheaper to spend $3600 to keep it on the road again for a while compared to spending $15K-$20K out of savings to replace it with something decent second hand

If it does something like a serious mechanical failure like a gearbox or uncle rodney pops out to say hello then she'll be going for a viking funeral I reckon.

So at 220k I had a motor trimmer repair the seat.
At 230km the air dam fell off at 100km hr -replaced.
The window seals were starting to go it was a bit noisy it was rough riding and it was sold for an LZ at 278000.
The LZ was traded at 129000 as it was riding rough seat was going brakes were going ....shocks were going....

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by kevino

So at 220k I had a motor trimmer repair the seat.
At 230km the air dam fell off at 100km hr -replaced.
The window seals were starting to go it was a bit noisy it was rough riding and it was sold for an LZ at 278000.
The LZ was traded at 129000 as it was riding rough seat was going brakes were going ....shocks were going....

They don't really hold up well to our roads and that's before you have someone like me who beats the crap out of it for every single kilometer of its life

Though its been good, its only let me down twice now, the first time was early on in its life where it crapped out a battery and wouldn't even turn over in my driveway when it was new.

It used to kill batteries every 12-18 months until about 3 years ago we modified the battery holder and put a large Century DIN85L MF in there, it hasn't killed it since and its going onto 4 years old now.

I haven't done a set of brakes on it yet and I'm very rough on my cars, it still has the set it rolled off the production line with, it even does stuff like pulling 6x4 trailers and with the back stuffed full of crap with the seats folded down.




I do tyres every circa 17,500-25,000km though but that's probably more because of my lack of using brakes and my driving style.

Its starting to blow a little bit of blue smoke on cold start after sitting for a few days so its showing signs of getting tired of being abused, but until it throws a rod, compression drops so far that it won't run anymore, it does an injection pump or set of injectors I'll keep abusing it

Its at that point where I don't really know what I'd replace it with, it continually does 5.5L/100km and gives me 800-900km out of a tank with me beating on it, it still has balls so its OK to drive and its good on the highway if you want to overtake someone, there's nothing that really fits all three criteria sub $20K on the second hand market aside from something newer in Ford Europe's range like MD Mondeo which is bigger, WZ Fiesta ST or one of the last Honda Accord Euro's if it popped up but they're torqueless pieces of **** you really have to work to get moving but manual ones are fun to drive winding them out to 7000 RPM.

Given the distance I cover and how I enjoy driving I'm probably not really cut out for new car ownership, done it twice now and I end up voiding warranties soon after I get them modifying stuff

[kevino]

Yes that LT was definitely the car I have ever owned loved the torque.
I had 5 people in it one day and squealed the tyres going from stop.
Hills-the torque just killed them.
Great car and the 6MT makes it better.
SA Focus really should have a 6MT- I wrote to Ford MD about it just got a lot of pixie words in the reply.
What about a Skoda Octavia 6MT RS?
Oh whats that you are not keen on VAG cars?
Skoda are different though.

[kevino]

Best car I have ever owned LT TDCI 6MT

[Franco Cozzo]

Tell you what I'm really not happy with these new Continental tyres - they put ContiPremiumContact 5 tyres all round,

Mistake - I've let workshops choose my tyres for me three times now and all three times they've made poor choices where I haven't been happy.

Car requires a bit more movement of the steering wheel to respond to steering input, say you need to move it maybe 5 degrees from centre to get it to start moving where as with good performance tyres the car is always spot on where it'll react to the very slightest steering input.

Its noticable on the highway, because if you want to make minor steering corrections you need to move the wheel a bit more before it reacts, it feels like it 'walks' around a touch.

Its also taken steering feel from the wheel, its like its dampened the road

I wanted Michelin Pilot Sport 4 again, they only had Primacy XM2 which are some comfort bull****, they said alternatively they had Continentals in stock so I'm like **** it go the Conti's, given the circumstances two days out from Christmas and they got me out of the **** so I didn't have much choice, I couldn't be ****ed chasing my own tyres around the Christmas break, while its on the hoist and around the corner from work just do it.

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Tell you what I'm really not happy with these new Continental tyres - they put ContiPremiumContact 5 tyres all round,

Mistake - I've let workshops choose my tyres for me three times now and all three times they've made poor choices where I haven't been happy.

Car requires a bit more movement of the steering wheel to respond to steering input, say you need to move it maybe 5 degrees from centre to get it to start moving where as with good performance tyres the car is always spot on where it'll react to the very slightest steering input.

Its noticable on the highway, because if you want to make minor steering corrections you need to move the wheel a bit more before it reacts, it feels like it 'walks' around a touch.

Its also taken steering feel from the wheel, its like its dampened the road

I wanted Michelin Pilot Sport 4 again, they only had Primacy XM2 which are some comfort bull****, they said alternatively they had Continentals in stock so I'm like **** it go the Conti's, given the circumstances two days out from Christmas and they got me out of the **** so I didn't have much choice, I couldn't be ****ed chasing my own tyres around the Christmas break, while its on the hoist and around the corner from work just do it.

Overdue for service, done about 18,000km since this post, brake pads still looking healthy at 220,000km, I haven't even done brake fluid flush at this point even though the car is 11 years old

These tyres are junk, be interesting to see how I'm travelling wear wise on the fronts.

[Franco Cozzo]

She's in the workshop at the moment for a service, about 5000km overdue at 223,000km

Front tyres are toast after 21,000km or there about, rears are OK but I have opted to replace all four with Michelin Pilot Sport 4.

Have also finally come up for rear pads and rotors - 223,000km out of a set of brake pads and rotors is good going, have opted to replace the fronts as well.

I have gone for Remsa HPT pads and RDA slotted rotors, wanted DBA T2 but no stock available and 10 business days for manufacture, so RDA it is.

Have also opted to replace battery since it's four years old, battery holder has been modified and it has a Century DIN85L MF in it, being replaced with Delkor.

Has broken it's rear sway bar links again, but they're on backorder at the moment with Pedders and no ETA unfortunately, will be replaced at a later date.

Has torn tie rod boot, is going to be replaced.

Sump plug is being replaced too as it's worn.

Car is in workshop over the weekend.

Interested in getting it back to see how well the new brakes work compared to the factory setup, the Remsa HPT pads are aggressive but still offer good cold performance.

https://brakesdirect.com.au/aus/1082...rake-pads.html