[How To] TDCI Timing Belt Replacement - 2.0L QXBA DW10 140PS

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by cobrin

Yep mine also has the same amount of wet patch it had on it 100K kms ago so it can keep getting a clean.I'm thinking about using a Fumoto quick drain valve on the sump and modifying the underbody tray to fit/make an inspection hatch out of making the job easier but that would see me not take the tray off and subsequently not clean the patch so bit unsure at the moment..

My next bit of work will be a clean out of the EGR valve and intake manifold will likely get a clean and new seals and that's about it.

A pictorial of the manifold clean would be great also.

I have been considering this as well, i did my Triton a few years ago and it was almost completely blocked at about 140K. That time i was lucky to have a spare manifold and I just had to swap them over. Still took about 8/9 hours plus a trip to get bolts as i dropped some down into the bash plates never to be seen again.

[cobrin]

ha ha ha dropped bolts, I dropped two of those rubber engine cover mounts. Didn't find one till 80K kms later doing the timing belt, but never got the other back.

I have a feeling that one might be a pain in the back, even if the results are interesting. I'll see what I can do to oblige your interest.

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by cobrin

Yep mine also has the same amount of wet patch it had on it 100K kms ago so it can keep getting a clean.I'm thinking about using a Fumoto quick drain valve on the sump and modifying the underbody tray to fit/make an inspection hatch out of making the job easier but that would see me not take the tray off and subsequently not clean the patch so bit unsure at the moment..

I love this thread of information. Thanks guys

I have a TDCi Kuga (TXMA) and am looking at one of those easy drain as well https://www.ezoil.com.au/index.html.

My plug is so different from what others have. Please provide us with your particular plug details.
i know mine has a small thread, maybe 10mm. I just wish there was a store down the road to buy 3 to try next time i have to service. LOL

[cobrin]

Mine is M14x1.5 though stupidcheap's database says it's M14x1.25. That being said mine has been cross threaded from Dara Ford and the Torx plug itself damaged which I had replaced the plug only. Found that out on the first oil change after buying the vehicle. I've not fixed it in over 100K kms but am thinking about fitting a helicoil to fix it once and for all. At least it's not leaking but I dare not do more than a simple nip up after it's bottomed out on the pan.

[Highway cruser]

Does any one have a part number or link to the timing setting tool?

[cobrin]

I took a photo of it:
https://fordforums.com.au/showpost.p...92&postcount=6

VSE6126

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by Highway cruser

Does any one have a part number or link to the timing setting tool?

http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilde...roductid=16174

[cobrin]

Well Bundybear75, I know what you experienced.



Today I helped an old neighbour from way back replace his timing belt on his 2010 MB (even though it has the MC engine and refreshed front end updates). It went without a hitch. I enjoyed doing it and now I feel I've gotten my moneys worth out of the timing setting tools. Neighboors/family friend are happy and that's all that matters. I didn't forget how much of a pain in the **** it was to get the startermotor out of the way but that at least went okay this time.j<shocked>



That and the flywheel pin fitted nicely (unlike my own engine) but the ring-gear tool I couldn't use because the starter motor has the threads in it and with that out the way I had no nuts to bolt the tool to the block, so I simply left it out and pinned it only along with the pinned cam sprocket. Verified my work by hand turning it over (4 crank revolutions for one complete combustion cycle). Locked it down again and torqued the crank pulley bolt and then filled it with coolant and started her up....BEAUTIFUL!!!



There's another Mondeo back on the roads for another 240k kms/ 10yrs if things go right.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by cobrin

Well Bundybear75, I know what you experienced.



Today I helped an old neighbour from way back replace his timing belt on his 2010 MB (even though it has the MC engine and refreshed front end updates). It went without a hitch. I enjoyed doing it and now I feel I've gotten my moneys worth out of the timing setting tools. Neighboors/family friend are happy and that's all that matters. I didn't forget how much of a pain in the **** it was to get the startermotor out of the way but that at least went okay this time.j<shocked>



That and the flywheel pin fitted nicely (unlike my own engine) but the ring-gear tool I couldn't use because the starter motor has the threads in it and with that out the way I had no nuts to bolt the tool to the block, so I simply left it out and pinned it only along with the pinned cam sprocket. Verified my work by hand turning it over (4 crank revolutions for one complete combustion cycle). Locked it down again and torqued the crank pulley bolt and then filled it with coolant and started her up....BEAUTIFUL!!!



There's another Mondeo back on the roads for another 240k kms/ 10yrs if things go right.

I bought a set of glow plugs for mine, as it is getting hard to start on frosty mornings. Watched a Youtube video on how to fit, and pretty much everything at the fromt of the engine has to come off....

[Mondaveo]

I'm now facing down the barrel of getting this service done in the next 3-6 months. The car is Nov' 2010 built/Feb 2011 registered, so the ten-year mark falls at the end of this year. By the service schedule in the book, I do still have one more minor 'A' service before the 'B' service next year, but being as my Powershift fluid change is also due this year (it being pushed forward 12 months due to the gearbox repair in 2016) I'm thinking to bring the 'B' service forward to this year to get it all synced up again.

I've been reading and re-reading this thread and watching the YouTube videos to try to convince myself whether I can succeed at it myself. I'm pretty happy with following the depicted procedure, but I'm concerned about the unforeseen complications (something I can't access or undo) of the kind that turned both my first oil change and my battery swap into multi-day ordeals. I particularly find Alan Howatt's videos give a good demonstration, but he also advises if you're an amateur attempting your first belt change not to try it with this engine...

I'm most anxious/confused about the crankshaft bolt. So we'll need a breaker bar/impact tool to undo the bolt, but then we're also using that bolt with a spanner on to turn the engine over. How is it that undoing/doing up the bolt doesn't just turn the engine, and vice versa? I imagined this is where we like the flywheel locking tool (the timing pin would not be strong enough to hold the engine in place against bolt removal/refitting), but in Howatt's videos he doesn't use the locking apparatus. Is it due to using an impact tool (rattle gun or power bar) and will I need precautions using a breaker bar?

And on the breaker bar, cobrin and rondeo both show/mention an extension to bring the bar out of the wheel well. Is this necessary, or just for comfort so we're not swinging the bar from under the car?

How concerned do I need to be with this talk about the starter motor?

Should really see how I feel doing my next DIY engine oil and transmission fluid changes, but I feel now's a good time to be thinking about it, ahead of buying to get everything on hand.

[rondeo]

Hi Mondaveo.

I don't think the Mondeo timing belt would be a good place to start getting more experience. I've been maintaing my own cars for 40 years now and I found it was a demanding job. The old cars were a lot easier to work on. Given Mondeo timing belt is a once in ten year job you don't get the chance to learn from mistakes, and mistakes here will be costly.

I used some particular tools and equipment, including an inspection camera (to see the tensioner adjustment), specially extended flex head ratchet spanners, a tap to clean out the crankshaft thread bore, heat gun to soften the threadlock etc etc. Not to mention the locking kit. Replacing the water pump requires coolant handling etc.

There are different opinions about using a rattle gun as well. Most mechanics will use one despite the warning in the manual not to. I used a three-foot lever to remove the bolt, 3/4" bar and ratchet, though I do have a rattle gun.

In other words, you need some expensive tools you may never use again.

Maybe it would be best to stick with the routine A and B service as DIY? That includes the trans fluid change and maybe doing the brakes.

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

I'm most anxious/confused about the crankshaft bolt. So we'll need a breaker bar/impact tool to undo the bolt, but then we're also using that bolt with a spanner on to turn the engine over. How is it that undoing/doing up the bolt doesn't just turn the engine, and vice versa? I imagined this is where we like the flywheel locking tool (the timing pin would not be strong enough to hold the engine in place against bolt removal/refitting), but in Howatt's videos he doesn't use the locking apparatus. Is it due to using an impact tool (rattle gun or power bar) and will I need precautions using a breaker bar?

And on the breaker bar, cobrin and rondeo both show/mention an extension to bring the bar out of the wheel well. Is this necessary, or just for comfort so we're not swinging the bar from under the car?

How concerned do I need to be with this talk about the starter motor?

Should really see how I feel doing my next DIY engine oil and transmission fluid changes, but I feel now's a good time to be thinking about it, ahead of buying to get everything on hand.

Let me clear up a few of your concerns Mondaveo.if I can.



I used a breaker bar (600mm of quality build) simply because I have one for work and it will undo the bolt where as my impact wrenches won't, If I had a decent shop air system and a decent (industrial or strong) impact wrench that'd achieve the same thing without the elbow grease. Now with using a breaker bar you need to lock the engine from turning otherwise you won't be undoing the bolt the engine will simply turn over. It's done up tight, on undoing the bolt it'll crack (meaning jolt as it is undone), it'll do that for some time and still require a fair effort to turn because of the amount of loctite on it. I did both jobs by hand. Don't be unsettled by it, keep undoing till it's off.



This is where the timing setting tools come in handy. Do note though that the cam sprocket pin isn't for locking the engine to get the crank bolt off, it's simply to stop the cam from moving, ensuring that valves stay in position. The flywheel pin locks the engine and to help that the ring gear lock backs it up. On my engine I used the cam pin, a drill bit for the flywheel pin and the ring gear tool. After finalising the verification of the job I only used the Ring gear lock that turned out fine. Last Saturday I didn't have any nuts on hand to use the ring gear lock so I only used the flywheel pin (obviously with the cam pin for the top end) this worked fine also.


The three extensions I used on the breaker bar to clear the bodywork that's it. I could also turn the bar (as much as 180Deg) and keep the socket straight/perpendicular on the bolt head so it doesn't jump off or round the bolt head, I suggest you use a six point socket for this part of the job. It's angle torqued....it's tight, did I mention it's tight?!? it bloody is trust me.


The neighbour I was helping used his battery impact wrench the day before I got there and emptied a 5Ahr battery, it wasn't undone...



Now to the starter motor I removed them on both jobs (not from the engine bay) but moved it out of the way to pin the flywheel and fit the ring gear lock. after not using the ring gear lock I'm not sure you'd need to remove starter at all but I didn't check if you could pin the flywheel with the starter motor in situ. It's annoying because of the things in the way and tight/limited access, I did remove the charge air hose and mounting points to swing the tube out of the way for better access underneath. Not a show stopper but it felt like more time was used on the starter motor than doing the belt/WP/Idler and front main seal combined.


If you were in my neck of the woods I'd happily do it for you...

[Bainos]

Just about completed this job myself on my 2009 Focus TDCI however i have hit a snag in the fact i can't get my accessory belt back on due to being unable to turn the belt tensioner with enough force to allow me to slip the belt back on. I'm just using a basic 17mm combination spanner to turn the tensioner but it just keep slipping off and its starting to strip the bolt head of the tensioner.. should I instead be using a 6 point 17mm spanner? or is there a special tool that is specifically for this job i.e. a 17mm spanner with an extended handle so that i can leverage it from in the engine bay?

[rondeo]

I used a 15mm ratcheting flex head ring spanner on a 600mm home made extension
(that's 15 not 17).

I also used extensions for the starter motor and the timing tensioner.

I mentioned a 3ft extension for the crank bolt in my previous post, that should read 600mm (2ft).

Maybe you could let us know how difficult/easy you found the timing belt change?

[rondeo]

Mondaveo said:

'I'm most anxious/confused about the crankshaft bolt. So we'll need a breaker bar/impact tool to undo the bolt, but then we're also using that bolt with a spanner on to turn the engine over. How is it that undoing/doing up the bolt doesn't just turn the engine, and vice versa? I imagined this is where we like the flywheel locking tool (the timing pin would not be strong enough to hold the engine in place against bolt removal/refitting), but in Howatt's videos he doesn't use the locking apparatus. Is it due to using an impact tool (rattle gun or power bar) and will I need precautions using a breaker bar? '


The flywheel locking tool is essential. It takes the torque reaction from undoing the crankshaft bolt, which is enthusiastically loctited. Although Alan Howatt is a very experienced Mondeo mechanic, he is not necessarily experienced in the best way of doimg things. Having said that I've done two of these, so I'm no expert either.
What I did have was plenty of time. Whether or not you DIY is for you to decide, but if in doubt, allow yourself time and expect to spend money on a decent torque wrench!

[steve289]

What are peoples thoughts on doing / not doing this belt change?
My MB Mondeo is now 10 years old now, but only has 112,000 km's, well short of the km mark of 160,000 for changing it, but clearly due time wise.
I am contemplating whether to sell it to a friend, or keep it for another few years,
The concern is 'how much life is left in the belt', and do I drive until it pops, or sell with a caveat & make it clear that this needs be done at their expense?

thanks

[rondeo]

If you don'follow the specified service interval (10 years or 200000Km) it's a toss-up. Maybe it's a toss-up anyway. These cars can go for a long time.
I'll be disappointed if my Mondeo doesn't reach 500000Km like my Falcon did.

In any case there's not much pleasure in being rear ended by a truck as your timing belt shreds and the rockers crack up to the tune of whatever radio station you're into.


Get the belt done.

[NZ XR6]

Unless you live somewhere with unusual environmental conditions, such as high levels of air pollution, cambelt life is predominantly due to mileage. But having said that, personally I won't go too far beyond 10 years if I keep the MB.

The type of driving is also a factor. A steady 100 in 6th will be easier on the cambelt than stop/start city driving.

[cobrin]

I can't say how long it would go for, I can say sure it's got life left in the belt going from the way the old belts looked. They were still relatively flexible and in a serviceable condition. You probably could get another couple of years or more out of it. Don't sell it keep it still.



I too fall in the 'get it done' category. That's why I helped my neighbour and now he's at ease for another 10 years or 240K kms.

[NZ XR6]

Definitely keep it. I have driven nearly every model of small SUV as a rental in the last year or so and there isn't one I'd prefer to the Mondeo. Definitely not the RAV4 I drove for a week in the South Island recently!

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

Definitely keep it. I have driven nearly every model of small SUV as a rental in the last year or so and there isn't one I'd prefer to the Mondeo. Definitely not the RAV4 I drove for a week in the South Island recently!

Funny that - my wife has a RAV, and absolutely loves it but hates driving the Mondeo. I like the RAV, but do feel a little cramped in there (6"1 high and 6'1 around). It is the AWD with the bigger (2.5) motor.

I love driving the Mondeo - I have done almost 200K km in the last four years.

I guess it is what you get used to.

[Mondaveo]

Thanks all who provided informative responses to my questions in this thread. I have decided to defer this job 12 months, so it will be done to the schedule for the major service in my book (albeit that schedule having slipped some months). Instead I'm hoping this weekend to just do the Powershift service and engine oil DIY. While it's an appealing thought to get the DCT fluid change synced back up to a major service, as it currently stands it was looking appealing to contract everything out to my preferred shop, but I'd already committed to DIY the engine and gearbox fluids this time and it would feel weird to tell them not to do the simple oil change. Even had I synced the Powershift back up to the major service now, who knows what would happen over the next 5 to 10 years so might as well just take it as it comes.

So instead I can spend the time getting more experience at DIY and make the decision next year. To that point, my wife's Barina has presented itself as an opportune practice subject, having an oil leak at the top end, and rupturing a radiator hose earlier this year. It also presents endearingly as "Fisher-Price My First Project Car" in both form (its dorkly little proportions) and function (engine bay is comparatively unobstructed, and most procedures are straightforward), so with those and other little challenges to gnaw on we'll see how we go.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

Thanks all who provided informative responses to my questions in this thread. I have decided to defer this job 12 months, so it will be done to the schedule for the major service in my book (albeit that schedule having slipped some months). Instead I'm hoping this weekend to just do the Powershift service and engine oil DIY. While it's an appealing thought to get the DCT fluid change synced back up to a major service, as it currently stands it was looking appealing to contract everything out to my preferred shop, but I'd already committed to DIY the engine and gearbox fluids this time and it would feel weird to tell them not to do the simple oil change. Even had I synced the Powershift back up to the major service now, who knows what would happen over the next 5 to 10 years so might as well just take it as it comes.

So instead I can spend the time getting more experience at DIY and make the decision next year. To that point, my wife's Barina has presented itself as an opportune practice subject, having an oil leak at the top end, and rupturing a radiator hose earlier this year. It also presents endearingly as "Fisher-Price My First Project Car" in both form (its dorkly little proportions) and function (engine bay is comparatively unobstructed, and most procedures are straightforward), so with those and other little challenges to gnaw on we'll see how we go.

When you do tackle it, I have the timing gear lockup kit you are welcome to borrow. I work in Canberra so shouldn't be an issue.

I bought my timing belt kit from the UK, but most places offer there aren't posting to Oz at the moment

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Hi Mondaveo.

I don't think the Mondeo timing belt would be a good place to start getting more experience. I've been maintaing my own cars for 40 years now and I found it was a demanding job. The old cars were a lot easier to work on. Given Mondeo timing belt is a once in ten year job you don't get the chance to learn from mistakes, and mistakes here will be costly.

I used some particular tools and equipment, including an inspection camera (to see the tensioner adjustment), specially extended flex head ratchet spanners, a tap to clean out the crankshaft thread bore, heat gun to soften the threadlock etc etc. Not to mention the locking kit. Replacing the water pump requires coolant handling etc.

There are different opinions about using a rattle gun as well. Most mechanics will use one despite the warning in the manual not to. I used a three-foot lever to remove the bolt, 3/4" bar and ratchet, though I do have a rattle gun.

In other words, you need some expensive tools you may never use again.

Maybe it would be best to stick with the routine A and B service as DIY? That includes the trans fluid change and maybe doing the brakes.

A mechanic snapped the balancer bolt clean off in the crankshaft on my TDCI Focus on a major service - they used the impact gun.

They got a thread specialist in who managed to get it out thank christ.

[rondeo]

Currently there's discussion on a crankshaft bolt snapped off on Talkford:
https://talkford.com/community/topic...-bolt-snapped/

[steve289]

I ended up selling my Mondeo a few weeks ago, so on the hunt for a new car now.
Sold it for $7600 after doing all new brakes (pads & rotors) a rear door lock actuator & front fog light, so realistically got about $6K for it, not too bad for a 10 year old car., plus was discounted to heliport a close friend.

Will choose between either the new Escape AWD, or a Mazda CX5 Turbo AWD
Also test drove a Forester, which was nice and comfortable, but just lacking some finesse, + a bit harsh & noisy.
Drove the Escape ST Line (FWD) this morning, need to check an AWD variant to make a final decision.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by steve289

I ended up selling my Mondeo a few weeks ago, so on the hunt for a new car now.
Sold it for $7600 after doing all new brakes (pads & rotors) a rear door lock actuator & front fog light, so realistically got about $6K for it, not too bad for a 10 year old car., plus was discounted to heliport a close friend.

Will choose between either the new Escape AWD, or a Mazda CX5 Turbo AWD
Also test drove a Forester, which was nice and comfortable, but just lacking some finesse, + a bit harsh & noisy.
Drove the Escape ST Line (FWD) this morning, need to check an AWD variant to make a final decision.

Did you look at the Endure? It is on my wishlist for my Mondeo replacement.

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by steve289

I ended up selling my Mondeo a few weeks ago ... to heliport a close friend.

Have you pointed them to these forums yet?

Originally Posted by bundybear75

Did you look at the Endure? It is on my wishlist for my Mondeo replacement.

Endura has been discontinued in Australia from the end of this year, so you'd need to get in quick.
https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-news...ps-endura-2020
Although in your case Bundy, I suppose you'd be looking for a used-car bargain rather than new, so no rush on it (it wasn't a big seller though so supply on the used market is probably going to be constrained)?

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Currently there's discussion on a crankshaft bolt snapped off on Talkford:
https://talkford.com/community/topic...-bolt-snapped/

I see after six weeks and 19 pages of discussion he managed to extract the broken bolt this weekend: page 19

[rondeo]

New crankshaft bolts are supplied with a blue hreadlocker.

It's a thermoplastic material.

It softens at higher temps (260deg C) and hardens at lower temps.

Therefore: heat the bolt or run the risk of breaking it.

I don't see how spraying WD40 could help, as one poster on Talkfork suggests.
It would cool the bolt.