Disappointed 14.100 Quarter BA XR8 - Page 2

**kypez** · 23-07-2010, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRAIGAU3220

A mate of mine has a GTP with same RWKW as you, running on stock 19s with 2000rpm launch has done best of 13.3

If running street tyres, the newer the better, don't bother if your tyres are more than two years old.

Cheers, Craig.

People's tyres last 2 years?!

I'll check with a slower launch. Lets see what next Wednesday gives me.

nugget378 · 24-07-2010, 08:24 AM

If your really keen for a time and dont mind spending the money, go and get yourself a pair of the Toyo RA1 radials and fit them on some 17 or 18" rims for the rear, they are discontinued but still a few sets floating around, I just got some 275/17's from Blairs tyres, either these or the new drag radials they have released.

They are legal for the street unlike the mickey thompsons and have worked just as well for me in the 60', wont last too long though, very soft rubber..

My technique for launcing a manual on street tyres is plenty of revs and ride the hell out of the clutch, try to simulate an auto launch.
Using the clutch to moderate the power, I have had as low as a 1.70 60' launching like this.

Quadcams · 24-07-2010, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nstg8a

most street tyres should only have a light burnout, go to hard and your tyre overheats and wont generate anywhere near as much traction.

Spot on, street tyres have a silicon compound and when heated too much will become slimy.

Quadcams · 24-07-2010, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kypez

Hi Guys,

Very disappointed last night to run only a 14.100 at best last night. I just could not get traction off the line. I guess running 20's werent the best idea! Anyway, what do you guys think of the following modifications to allow for a better time? (I want to try again next Wednesday and dont think I can put in more in a week).

SS Induction Kit (currently have a pod, nothing else)
3.7 diff
16" wheels

Would these 3 simple mods help? I'm not gonna hunt for more HP till I figure out how to launch what I have. I have a 250hp NOS kit, but its all useless till I get off the line better. 2.4 60' is hopeless.

This was the first time with the car. I've always run the bike, which is good for a 10.8, but I want to get this car up and going.

Also, launching it at 3400 rpm. Do you think it too high? (I'm a little clueless here, so please be gentle. I've only circuit raced before)

Any suggestions? Or should I just bite the bullet and strap on a Kenne Bell?

Thanks guys.

kypez.

On street tyres try just driving it off the line about 1800-2000rpm, you will be supprised how much quicker you go. And your mph is very low for the power your stating (should be up around 107-109mph), could have somthing to do with your gear changing, you must keep momention on changes, otherwise you will knock off mph each change, also big wheelspin in a manuals can have a affect on your mph, can loose up around 5 mph at times.
In street tyres and with a good track you can get you 60' down to around 2.0 and you time will tumble by about 8 tenths from a 2.4
In manuals there's alot of variables and alot of practice is needed, and with manuals, track conditions play a big factor, very track sensitive, as they are very aggressive at putting the power down compared to a auto.
If you want any decent times you need some good rubber, as Nugget mentioned the Toyo Ra1's are a good tyre, also MT streets are better as they are more suited to drag racing (softer side walls), running full slick is to best option with a manual but wear a tare will increase considerably.
What track are you at??

Wade

worm · 24-07-2010, 10:04 PM

Hmmmm... I can understand your frustration mate... I ran my BA XR6T on Liquid Gas Injection today at Calder... about 280rwkw... pretty much stock with a tune and lpg setup...

I ran a 13.0 @ 111mph with 2.2 60'....

I REALLY wanted a 12... LOL But... They did a motorbike demo and then it started spitting... After running the 13 flat first up, I got slower, cause I kept on getting overexcited on the burnout...

My tyres are Nankang 20 inchers... 275/30/20...

Hope you crack into the 13's soon!!!

Windsor220 · 25-07-2010, 12:49 AM

Id be getting rid of the 20s purely because of the weight of the things not because of the grip level.

Quicksand · 27-07-2010, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtfpv

to put this in perspective . 14.1 sec over 400m is faster than A GTHO PH3 @14.4 . THE AU 220 MKIII MATCHED IT AT 14.4 . SO THE BA BEING THE NEXT MODEL DOING 14.1 . IS PRETTY GOOD CONSIDERING YOU" HAD TRACTION PROBLEMS .

Must you shout at us and use random full stops?

What perspective are you referring to? GTHO PH3 was built in 1971 almost 40 years ago. 30 years later the AUIII only matches the GTHO and nearly 40 years later the BA just barely pips it at the post? No perspective to be gained there.

Even then, his car isn't stock so the comparison is pointless. According to his sig and the thread he is running a Flash Tune, Herrod Lowering Springs and Chip, Full stainless exhaust and headers, ceramic hipo clutch and NOS (though the NOS wasnt used).

Sorry, but i agree entirely with the OP. I would be pretty disappointed too with the result.

But there is some good advice in this thread, and with a few small configuration changes and some technique changes, we should see the times come down.

Hopefully we will get a good update if the OP goes down tomorrow night. Keep at it mate, practice makes perfect!

ash68 · 28-07-2010, 07:29 PM

the only way to launch a manual is bolt on your nitrous and some 28X10 slicks hold at 4500 and dump the clutch

Road Games · 28-07-2010, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ash68

the only way to launch a manual is bolt on your nitrous and some 28X10 slicks hold at 4500 and dump the clutch

Yeah what he ^^^ said !

**kypez** · 29-07-2010, 11:55 AM

Just an update guys. Last night was rained out in Sydney. I will have to bear my disappointment for another week!!

Oh and I dont have NOS connected yet. I was thinking of putting it in. The 14.1 is without NOS.

nugget378 · 29-07-2010, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ash68

the only way to launch a manual is bolt on your nitrous and some 28X10 slicks hold at 4500 and dump the clutch

The outcome of that would be nuts/bolts and halfshaft bits all over the track..

Quadcams · 29-07-2010, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

The outcome of that would be nuts/bolts and halfshaft bits all over the track..

They can handle a bit Tony, I use to run 10"x28" slicks and launch at about 6000rpm, did many low 1.6 60's with std shaft but did opt for a billet shaft as it was not far off letting go when I changed it, very sloppy at the joints.
But definately wasnt dumping the clutch though, riding it out is always the go, friendlier on the drivline and quicker to get out of the hole.

Wade

nugget378 · 29-07-2010, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quadcams

They can handle a bit Tony, I use to run 10"x28" slicks and launch at about 6000rpm, did many low 1.6 60's with std shaft but did opt for a billet shaft as it was not far off letting go when I changed it, very sloppy at the joints.
But definately wasnt dumping the clutch though, riding it out is always the go, friendlier on the drivline and quicker to get out of the hole.

Wade

The ute has a different diff though Wade, the sedans with the IRS are a bit weaker? seen a few let go on the start line.

I have snapped a strange pinion gear and bent the billet axles in the 9" with big rev dumps, its very tough on the drivetrain giving it all like that on slicks.

SpoolMan · 29-07-2010, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

The ute has a different diff though Wade, the sedans with the IRS are a bit weaker? seen a few let go on the start line.

Agree the leaf spring Ute will take more stick of the line than the IRS sedan, only on the weekend at our Forum Drag Meet we had a F6 Sedan dump all its rear end along with the oil over the track and he was on his daily street rubber..

Boosted · 30-07-2010, 08:33 AM

Axle tramp(shock) will break rear end components a lot quicker(even with little power), more than shear power/torque on a clean launching car. The car that broke at the FF drag nationals was axle tramping badly off the line, the pass I seen it run. Rule of thumb, any axle tramp, get off the gas asap.

Stefan · 30-07-2010, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inducted_Breeze

Must you shout at us and use random full stops?

What perspective are you referring to? GTHO PH3 was built in 1971 almost 40 years ago. 30 years later the AUIII only matches the GTHO and nearly 40 years later the BA just barely pips it at the post? No perspective to be gained there.

You beat me to it...an improvement of .3 sec over a 40 year old car with40 year old tyre technology....Ford has come a long way

dieseltrain79 · 30-07-2010, 07:52 PM

Sell the Nos kit and buy some MT ET street radials . Best bang for buck mod anyone into drag racing can do . No more ******** excuses of " but my car has 1 million rwkw and should run 5's " !!! ;)

People spend so much money buying cars and then modding, and for the sake of having more fun and getting the most out of their 1/4 mile times for under $800 which should last a couple years of tyres ....

Growler intakes cost more ! ANd i know which one would produce a much better time

Road Games · 30-07-2010, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseltrain79

Sell the Nos kit and buy some MT ET street radials . .Best bang for buck mod anyone into drag racing can do

People spend so much money buying cars and then modding, and for the sake of having more fun and getting the most out of their 1/4 mile times for under $800 which should last a couple years of tyres ....

Growler intakes cost more ! And i know which one would produce a much better time

Brilliant post , and most people dont realise we can drive around on them .....

nugget378 · 31-07-2010, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAZZLER351

Brilliant post , and most people dont realise we can drive around on them .....

They are not legal to drive on the road, they have no speed or load rating and are dangerous in the wet, they also wear very quickly.

CRAIGAU3220 · 31-07-2010, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

They are not legal to drive on the road, they have no speed or load rating and are dangerous in the wet, they also wear very quickly.

Are we talking about the same tyre?, Ive had a set of ET streets and they certainly had speed rating,load rating and DOT stamp.

Road Games · 31-07-2010, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRAIGAU3220

Are we talking about the same tyre?, Ive had a set of ET streets and they certainly had speed rating,load rating and DOT stamp.

Same here mate....

cheers...

ash68 · 31-07-2010, 05:18 PM

i say gas it i have run over 100 passes on nitrous with slicks manual stock motor stock tail shaft consistent 11.7s 117 1.57 sixty. gearbox and tailshaft are still in one piece

nugget378 · 31-07-2010, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRAIGAU3220

Are we talking about the same tyre?, Ive had a set of ET streets and they certainly had speed rating,load rating and DOT stamp.

Can you list the numbers on the tyre?
I have had two sets and they are definitely not legal for use in NSW, the US DOT doesn't count for much here. I have had a canary for running them, as have many others.

Boosted · 31-07-2010, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

Can you list the numbers on the tyre?
I have had two sets and they are definitely not legal for use in NSW, the US DOT doesn't count for much here. I have had a canary for running them, as have many others.

I thought the same, I've read many times M/T Et Street Radials are technically not road legal in Australia, and you run a risk of being busted with them. Some still run them on the street though. Here are some tyres from Toyo http://www.toyo.com.au/MotorSport2.htm that may be suitable, the top two say they are road legal in Australia.

CRAIGAU3220 · 31-07-2010, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

Can you list the numbers on the tyre?
I have had two sets and they are definitely not legal for use in NSW, the US DOT doesn't count for much here. I have had a canary for running them, as have many others.

No haven't got them any more. but being in the tyre industry i do take notice of these things and am 100% they are dot with the load index and speed rating stamped on them. Can also tell you DOT is a world standard recognised in Australia nationally and not subjected to state law so any peanut vehicle inspector or cop that would say a DOT tyre is not legal and give you a canary is very wrong.

Cheers, Craig.

Sprint347 · 31-07-2010, 08:04 PM

If you're running proper street tyres do not do a burnout at all, drive around the waterbox. Street tires are a completely different compound to slicks and lose traction with heat.

For example, after a reasonable sized burnout (at a sanctioned event of course) you'll notice you have greatly reduced traction even if you have a large amount of treat left.

The 20" wheels are probably adding a considerable amount of rolling mass and hurting your time. 20" tyres have very little sidewall and that will hinder the tires ability to flex and assist traction.

I'm not sure of the tire size you're running but the larger rolling diameter may have a similar effect as having a higher diff ratio. A taller tire travel further than a shorter tire with one full revolution.

It's a very fine art but try to introduce a little clutch slip into your launch (be less agressive with the shock to the rear tyres on launch) and if your getting no traction at all try a really soft launch. I'd attempt this at lower revs too, say 2500rpm and raise this in small increments each time until you find 'the sweet spot'.

If you're still having dramas, sometimes its better to just cruise the first 30 feet before applying full power, rather than waste ET time sitting there going nowhere with the tires spinning.

Street slicks are great but you can certainly run 13's in a 1900kg car on full street rubber, it's also more rewarding to do a time in 'true street trim'.

Oh and finally, go to the drags with as little fuel as what's reasonable. There's no point in lugging an extra 50kg more than what's neccesary down the 1/4.

And of course turn your air-con off!

nugget378 · 31-07-2010, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted

I thought the same, I've read many times M/T Et Street Radials are technically not road legal in Australia, and you run a risk of being busted with them. Some still run them on the street though. Here are some tyres from Toyo http://www.toyo.com.au/MotorSport2.htm that may be suitable, the top two say they are road legal in Australia.

Hi Boosted, I use those tyres and have so for a few years, really good tyre and 100% road legal, the discontinued toyo RA1 is a great all round tyre and very good in the wet.

CRAIGAU3220, I wont argue with you on here, and I sure as hell wont argue with the police, they do ping people for them and with good reason, in the wet they are downright dangerous, agueing when pulled over by the side of the road wont save you from a yellow sticker, and likely get your car looked over even more closely.

dieseltrain79 · 31-07-2010, 10:04 PM

[QUOTE=Sprint347]Street slicks are great but you can certainly run 13's in a 1900kg car on full street rubber, it's also more rewarding to do a time in 'true street trim'.

QUOTE]

That comment alone shits me to tears over all the years i have raced . No one gives a crap about what trim your in, just the time and mph . Everything else gets checked under the " excuse " box as far as im concerned and as are many others .

Bring what ya got and hope its enough . Excuses dont count !

I like laughing at people who spend Heaps of $$$ on cars and mods to run crappy times and complain of traction issues . They just jealous others spend heaps less and go faster with traction ;)

schnoods · 31-07-2010, 11:37 PM

Well thats exactly it, thing is the drag strip isnt a street either!

Definately lose racing on a 20 inch rims when even thinking of going near a drag strip. The extra rolling diametre is is going to hurt your or starters, it will set a 3.7 diff back to somewhere like a 3.23 with the larger size. It will affect acceleration by a fair bit. your top speed will improve but unless your out on a salt lake, its an acceleration contest

Also the weight of the rim plus the tyre will also hurt the time, The general rule of thumb is that for every pound of weight that you add in wheel/tire combo, it’s equivalent to adding 2x that amount of weight anywhere else in the car.

Best bit of advice is get a set of territory steelies, ba xr rims for the rear or 16's like you said, a good set of tyres at a good price and bolt em up and drive to the track. There are some really good middle range road tyres will handle a bit of grunt, i ran low 13's on a 235/17 (sp3000) with no traction probs.

Quadcams · 01-08-2010, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAZZLER351

Brilliant post , and most people dont realise we can drive around on them .....

I have driven on the street with MT streets and was very scary to say the least, spun in all gears with about half a centimeter of throttle, bacically a accident waiting to happen.