Phil B's XB coupe

[Coupes and More]

coupes and sedans share the same floor pan 100percent

and everything from the dash forward is the same as sedans

[cob115]

I love spoilers front & rear ,to me coupes represent a muscle car era & are best suited with that type of look including wheels n Tyres ,but that's my personal choice .As for front spoiler go ahead you won't regret it if it's some thing that catches your mind .iv bought a few of them over the years (Xb/Xc)all from fomoco ford parts in Vic ,get on there web side there is a lot more stuff available now then ever
As far as ride hight LEAVE IT Standard if you go spoiler .Spoon drains ,drive ways speed humps all become a pain in the butt ,i reckon I kept the fibre glass industry afloat years ago when I fitted one on my dayly driver XC.Its now returned to factory ride hight with stiffer springs ,when fitted they give the elision of the car being lowered any way I live on a property in the hills & use my XC coupe on dirt roads n tracks (gingerly ) but my point is if it's kept standard ride hight it's 100% user friendly I also like the look of a standard hight front but dumped 2 inches at the rear With 15x10s & the biggest goodyear track tyres to can find mmmmmmmm getting excited ,gives it that flat out look siting still

[cs123]

Hey Phil, Looks like you are getting into it.

2 inches all round. Forget the spoliers;)

[gtxb67]

i have had the front of my coupe lowered 2 inches since the late 80's (do front springs sag?). my spoiler has been on since 1990 and i have touched one gutter - it was miles higher than standard gutters and i should have known better

mine clears all normal gutters. obviously i try to be aware around driveways that have a steep rise in them, but usually i do not have problems. there is a friend's house that i couldn't get up because of the steepness of the road (down) and their driveway (up). there was 1 kfc around flemington that i was too scared to try one of their driveways, but that is the extent of my problems. not being an everyday car helps, but if you are aware and know what you can and cannot clear, then you shouldn't have a problem

not being a holden, this is not a problem, but if it needs to go on the back of a truck, then the spoiler will get in the way. if they tow from the front, it is likely to be torn off, from the rear it may touch as it the road and ramps meet. mine is held on by self tappers, so that would not be a problem if it needed towing. as usual it is about keeping your eye on the surroundings and going from there

and i am not sure if mine could get up wheel ramps anyway, but with the spoiler there is no hope - once again, check before doing anything

[Phil B]

Quick note to say I'm in the shed working on it right now!
So far the driving lights have been wired up, once I got a proper chance to look at it, a quick fiddle, test and done
Just replaced a bolt on top of the fuel tank that holds those vapor lines or whatever they are on, the old one was stuffed and not doing up tight so it was leaking fuel there.
Pics later probably And hopefully more things fixed!

[Phil B]

So to add to what I put up before, I got a few things done after that:

First here's a pic of the fixed fuel vapor line(?) part, you can see a stain from leaking fuel, new bolt and all good, much better than the dodgy side of the road fix I did on the trip home!


Tightened up the passenger side windscreen wiper so it works now.
Tested the washer squirters but they dont work, didnt get into fixing them though.

Glued one of the center pieces of the steering wheel back in that had come off, the black and metal insert piece.

Not sure if you can see but the inside of the wheel is missing a piece of black plastic on the right hand side of the lower arm, any ideas to fix it? Find another stuffed wheel to cut a piece out of, or someone know of something else that fits?

Then with the help of my girlfriend we fixed up a few things inside, few screws tightened on trim bits, one rear ash tray popped back in, dont have the other one though. Do you have it around somewhere Pat?

Checked the indicators and they are ok, so dont need replacing.

Dad started working on the rear side clearance lights, they didnt have globes, looks like they need new fittings though, so thats not finished yet.

Also pulled out the jack from in the boot, it's the original bumper ripper jack, I plan to replace it with a proper jack. Does anyone want it for originality purposes? Everything is there I think in the vinyl bag, which isnt in the best of shape.


Oh for those who havent seen, check out the dealer fitted cloth seat inserts! 70's baby!


About the spoiler and lowering, I do prefer the earlier one over the later XC one, so thats what I was looking at. I'm not a fan of lower at the back than the front, think I've seen too many XE's like that and put me off that look For now though, spoiler is on the wait list, more important things to spend money on first, later on though I would like to go up to 15" wheels, probably globes, and spoiler, would have to see where it sat before I went lower, I'm not a fan of taking 15 minutes to get over a speedbump!

And a pic to make it look like I actually did something... I think I was just having a look see underneath, found a silicone'd up hole in the floor to investigate later. Also looked at where to use a proper jack on it while I was on the floor. Checked the rear brakes and I have drums on the rear, wooo modern technology! Also had a quick squizz at the suspension bushes and I think some new ones will be on the shopping list.


Thats all for today, spent most of the day putting a roof on a carport, indirectly linked to the coupe. Its for my trailer and dads caravan to go under to make more room in the shed for the coupe! Its a very nice shed by the way, at the moment it has the coupe, a toyota starlet, a 10x5.5 tandem with a 14 foot catamaran on top, the caravan and heaps of working room down the side!

[falconator]

No,sorry phil,the original rear ashtrays were removed years ago.The owner did not want people smoking in his car.LOL.The windscreen washer worked not that long ago,might want a wiggle.

[XBCoupeNZ]

You can buy those inserts for the steering wheel from eBay or Fomoco website

http://www.fomoco.com.au/Shop/shopexd.asp?id=19488

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALC...item5ae5629bc1

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by XBCoupeNZ

You can buy those inserts for the steering wheel from eBay or Fomoco website

http://www.fomoco.com.au/Shop/shopexd.asp?id=19488

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALC...item5ae5629bc1

That's the bit I just glued back in, what I'm after is part of the rim itself, the curved black inside piece.

[bionic2006xr6t]

Originally Posted by Phil B

That's the bit I just glued back in, what I'm after is part of the rim itself, the curved black inside piece.

Hey mate,
Nice pick up of the coupe. Congratulations. As for the steering wheel save some $$$ and just get it restored buy one of the many GS-GT steering wheel restorer around the country. My pick has always been http://www.rimblowrestorations.co.nz/
allow around $500. including postage to NZ or just ask around on here as there are guys in OZ that do them for $350+. But I personally have never had anything to do with them or know there quality. Let me know how you go as I have to get one done myself. If I can get it done cheaper to the same quality I will.

Cheers Ryan

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by bionic2006xr6t

Hey mate,
Nice pick up of the coupe. Congratulations. As for the steering wheel save some $$$ and just get it restored buy one of the many GS-GT steering wheel restorer around the country. My pick has always been http://www.rimblowrestorations.co.nz/
allow around $500. including postage to NZ or just ask around on here as there are guys in OZ that do them for $350+. But I personally have never had anything to do with them or know there quality. Let me know how you go as I have to get one done myself. If I can get it done cheaper to the same quality I will.

Cheers Ryan

Ahh for $500 I'll just make a piece myself and glue it in, it's only a small piece on the inside of the rim.

[falconator]

Minor detail Phil.

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by falconator

Minor detail Phil.

Yep I know, I'm slightly OCD though so its on the to-do list. Like most things really, nothing major, just little bits and pieces to work away at. Finishing touches really, which is what I was after because I only really have some Saturdays to work on it but I wanted to do something to it.

[Phil B]

Holy crap I tell you I've giving poor ebay and my credit card a work out! And keeping the posties in a job.
So far I've bought a door handle, haven't fitted it yet.
Parcel shelf, also not fitted.
Boot carpet, been in, now back out, but I should put it back in for now (got other trim bits to do in the boot still, later)
Stuff thats not here yet: air cleaner sticker (sheer coz I damn well can factor, thats an extra 20 horses right there ay?). Plastic boot lock cover and ignition and door locks set because I'm having lots of trouble with the ignition and a bit of trouble with the passenger door.

Progress report: During the week dad fixed up the rear side indicators and number plate light, should the number plate light have a lens over it or is it just the bare globe hanging out?

Today: I welded up a small rust hole in the boot floor, so glad I could borrow a MIG, just wouldn't have happened with the trusty old arc!
The sun visors didn't have the stoppers on the end to hold them in the clip, so I bought some from bunnings last week and made them fit today.
I made up a bolt to hold down the spare wheel, found a proper one with the butterfly top in the shed but it was to short, small amount of drilling, grinding and welding later and the top was welded to a longer bolt.
I freed up the movement of the drivers seat, so I can now sit where I need to!

Not heaps left for a roadworthy now, just the passenger door, radiator and windscreen washers really. Plan is now to get a permit next weekend to get it to the tyre place for new fronts and an alignment, mechanics for inspection and service. Then take the radiator out and get it fixed, also see if there's a thermostat in when we do that because I don't think there is. Then roadworthy, rego and driving...everywhere...all the time...because I can!

After that it's just mostly interior and boot trim pieces, with the boot I'm planning on boxing it out with storage boxes on the sides to put the jack and stuff in (not the original jack but one that works without wrecking the car).

[falconator]

There is a new thermostat there.

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by falconator

There is a new thermostat there.

Thanks, just thought it seemed to run quite cold.

[falconator]

It needs a choke,and i think the gauge is on the apathetic side,like me.They dont run as hot as the modern cars.

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by falconator

It needs a choke,and i think the gauge is on the apathetic side,like me.They dont run as hot as the modern cars.

Yeah there is a lot more frontal area straight into the radiator. I think the temp gauge may be a bit that way judging off the vague approximations of the fuel gauge lol. It reads 3/4 when I fill up and changes with speed and generally sort of is goes down to the orange mark (whatever that means) and I put about 40 liters in then. Is that sort of fuel gauge reading normal? Is there a way to make it any more accurate? (though I do understand that this is an old car). Also how big is the tank, just so I can judge off that better?

One other thing, should there be a plastic lens over the number plate light? Or does the globe just hang out bare?

Oh and more stuff arrived today!

[Phil B]

I'm also planning on getting new suspension bushes all around for it, they look like original rubber ones and are a bit cracked. Any recommendations as to where to get them, what material to get them in and what to avoid?

[falconator]

The thermostat in it,runs a cooler heat range,you can replace the sender unit in the tank,the bulb should have a housing and lens.

[Phil B]

Ok I'll get round to that at some point.

Does anyone know where to get that lens from?

[neptune blue]

My 76 coupe doesnt have a lens housing for the rear number plate bulb and Im its second owner - no crashes prior to me buying it
would like to see a picture of one

[cs123]

Originally Posted by Phil B

I'm also planning on getting new suspension bushes all around for it, they look like original rubber ones and are a bit cracked. Any recommendations as to where to get them, what material to get them in and what to avoid?

Phil,
I'd recommend rubbber bushes for rear springs.
Rubber for castor rod bushes. Perhaps urathane for lower control arm. You can buy complete lower control arms which includes a new ball joint and bush.

For upper control arms, it probably should have the greaseable metal bushes, if so keep them.

For swaybar, I'd use urathane.


Bursons or Conventary or Repco should have them but they will try to sell you urathane bushes. Just tell them you want rubber.

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by cs123

Phil,
I'd recommend rubbber bushes for rear springs.
Rubber for castor rod bushes. Perhaps urathane for lower control arm. You can buy complete lower control arms which includes a new ball joint and bush.

For upper control arms, it probably should have the greaseable metal bushes, if so keep them.

For swaybar, I'd use urathane.


Bursons or Conventary or Repco should have them but they will try to sell you urathane bushes. Just tell them you want rubber.

So what's the difference between the rubber and urethane? Why some in some places?

[cs123]

Originally Posted by Phil B

So what's the difference between the rubber and urethane? Why some in some places?

Urathane is quite firm and can affect the ride quality and noise transmitted into the cabin. Some people like the feeling of urathane in the rear leafs. I'd rather the better ride quality. There are also some issues with durability of urathane with some people reporting these bushes flogging out within a few years. Other people that I know just yank them straight back out and put rubber in.

Sway bar saddle and link pins in urathane are good as it will make the sway bar more effective.

The lower control arm won't transmit much noise or harshness. IMO the castor rod needs a rubber bush to allow more flex.

The upper control arms are probably the older style metal joint with grease nipples. It use to be popular to retrofit later model arms with rubber bushes but this trend seems to have been reversed in recent years with the older style becoming more popular again.

You have air shocks in the rear end. I would bin them and replace the shocks all round with some good ones, like Konis. Look at a rear sway bar too.

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by cs123

Urathane is quite firm and can affect the ride quality and noise transmitted into the cabin. Some people like the feeling of urathane in the rear leafs. I'd rather the better ride quality. There are also some issues with durability of urathane with some people reporting these bushes flogging out within a few years. Other people that I know just yank them straight back out and put rubber in.

Sway bar saddle and link pins in urathane are good as it will make the sway bar more effective.

The lower control arm won't transmit much noise or harshness. IMO the castor rod needs a rubber bush to allow more flex.

The upper control arms are probably the older style metal joint with grease nipples. It use to be popular to retrofit later model arms with rubber bushes but this trend seems to have been reversed in recent years with the older style becoming more popular again.

You have air shocks in the rear end. I would bin them and replace the shocks all round with some good ones, like Konis. Look at a rear sway bar too.

Ok interesting. I'll look at the new shocks too then, will they make it drive nicer? Also do you normally do new springs with the shocks or not? It does have a rear sway bar, I just got dad to check for me.

The problem with all this is though that I'm itching to get it on the road and drive it, but new shocks would make it nicer. I definitely plan on doing the bushes before I get new front tyres and a wheel alignment because that makes sense. Would new shocks need a new wheel alignment? Thinking of doing them after I've driven it a bit, get my fix, then have it all organised and drop them in.

[falconator]

Originally Posted by neptune blue

My 76 coupe doesnt have a lens housing for the rear number plate bulb and Im its second owner - no crashes prior to me buying it
would like to see a picture of one

I stand corrected.again.

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by falconator

I stand corrected.again.

Dont forget though, are Ford known for making every car exactly the same from this era?

I'm thinking I wont bother about a lens cover until the globe breaks. It is pretty protected up there. Hell I could probably get an LED number plate light for a trailer and fit that lol!

[cs123]

Originally Posted by Phil B

Ok interesting. I'll look at the new shocks too then, will they make it drive nicer? Also do you normally do new springs with the shocks or not? It does have a rear sway bar, I just got dad to check for me.

Good shocks make a massive difference. But get it on the road and then do them sometimes later. You could fit them in an hour and no wheel alignment is required but you need one anyway as your wheel alignment is probably out.

[Phil B]

Originally Posted by cs123

Good shocks make a massive difference. But get it on the road and then do them sometimes later. You could fit them in an hour and no wheel alignment is required but you need one anyway as your wheel alignment is probably out.

Ok thanks, and yeah I'm getting a wheel alignment after the new bushes. I need front tyres anyway for roadworthy, so after all of that it'll definitely need one. I was hoping I would be able to do them later, after I had it roadworthy'd and everything.

About tyres, are those Bridgestone Eagers a pretty good tyre? Worth getting them again when I get new tyres? I have no idea how they feel because the only thing I'm used to is a ute on light trucks!