Building a Meguiars Kit!

[b2tf]

Originally Posted by SVR73

Chamois, either natural or synthetic still have their place but I personally don't believe it's for drying the paint anymore
I hate wringing one out every ten seconds and the lines and marks left behind, especially on glass turned me off of them
The synthetic ones are made from poly vinyl alcohol and it's the alcohol that strips or at least weakens sealants and the leathers can be sticky at times

To get the most out of your natural chamois, wash it by hand with some washing soap (lux or similar), (not the hand wash ones though) and they will work better if your paint is smooth.
The smoother it is, the easier it will work and leave less lines

However an ultra microfibre drying towel will never leave marks or lines, will never scratch and no wringing. One towel for a small - mid sized car, two for large cars.
Again the smoother and cleaner the paint is, the easier to use.
I fold mine twice to give a good cushion between hand and the surface

Will outlast a chamois hands down.
Using a damp chamois to remove dust from dashboards or to quickly clean a cloth seat with a spray bottle filled with water and a dash of dishwashing liquid is great though

That sounds like a better option as I'm all too familiar with the streaks on the glass syndrome. Shits me cos sometimes you just cannot get it right.
I'll have a look round for a microfibre cloth - whats the best way to maintain the cloth? Give it a good rinse before using etc?

[russellw]

I'll chuck my ten cents worth in here after 30 years of keeping my cars in reasonable nick.

It's not ALL Meguiars but I've stuck with them for the ready availability even though there are some better products around.

1. Meguiars Gold Class Wash.
2. Kleencote Wheel cleaner )only thing I've ever found that works as intended).
3. 2 x wool wash mitts.
4. I still prefer a chamois (I use a couple) for the paintwork.
5. Microfibre for the windows.
6. Selleys Glass Clean (cheap and effective) applied with a microfibre mitt.
7. Turtle Wax tyre shine (cheap, simple to apply, no mess and effective)
8. Meguiars Gold Class Wax when required.
9. Scratch-X (ditto and a lifesaver).
10. Meguiars Swirl remover (prior to waxing / polishing).
11. Meguiars Quick Detailer for lazy occasions (after washing of course).
12. A Meguiars clay bar for those odd occasions.
13. Meguiars Leather detailer a couple of times a year.

It all fits into one of those plastic lided carry tubs and covers 95% of what I ever need to do.

Cheers
Russ

[XR_Strider_GuY]

Originally Posted by Dark Horse

In fact I must say the boot contents have been accessed on quite a number of cruises.

Yes i will concur to this statement, had to use the emergency dark Meguires kit one night when we were out cruising. My XR got struck by alot of bird poop. Is quick detailer sorted the problem.

I also get comments about the car appearing well under the k's that she's done, outside, inside and underneath.

I will agree to this as well, the Darkmobile looks very very clean despite not having a garage.

[Sundeep]

Sooo... for a newbie to this kind of stuff (caring for paint lol) can someone who is experienced write a list of things I should have for first washing my car then waxing it etc.? I know how to go ape shit with tyre shine, and do an interior and engine bay but waxing properly is new to me.

The list would looks something like this:

- x brand Shampoo
- x brand scratch remover
- x brand wax
- x brand applicator
- x brand buffing cloth or whatever

I'm tipping most of the stuff would be Meguiar's though. Would a new towel be good enough to buff with? What do you apply with? Do you just buff off with 1 buffing cloth or use another cloth after a "preliminary buff" lol?

I'll try this on the EL on the weekend and post before and after pics, because it has a bit of crap in the paint and a lot of swirls. Always comes up a treat after a wash, but only if you keep a metre away. Just tell me what to buy and teach me how to do it! I have to do the EA soon as well!

Racecraft gas a zillion cloths there and fifty billion products have been mentioned...I'm so confused!!!!

Sundeep

[Sundeep]

Originally Posted by RusselW

3. 2 x wool wash mitts.

Do you use this instead of a sponge?

Originally Posted by RusselW

8. Meguiars Gold Class Wax when required.
9. Scratch-X (ditto and a lifesaver).
10. Meguiars Swirl remover (prior to waxing / polishing).

Are the Scratch-X and swirl remover for the same purpose? You use the Gold Class Wax after the Scratch-X and/or Swirl remover right?

Originally Posted by RusselW

12. A Meguiars clay bar for those odd occasions.

Yeah those clay bars are mad...what are they?...:(

I'm sure I'm not the only idiot with all the questions!

Sundeep

[b2tf]

Originally Posted by Sundeep

I'm sure I'm not the only idiot with all the questions!

Sundeep

You're not, thats why i started this thread!

I like the info too but the goal is to develop the kit THEN learn how to use it for me. Cant learn if I dont have the right tools.

[Sprint_ED]

you ppl have 2 add scratch X, that stuf works wonders

[Steve_T]

I think Quick Detailler (or Final Inspection as I use lately) is brilliant along with microfibre polishing cloth - I even find it's good to use right after a wash (and dry) to bring the shine right back out.

I also love the Dust Magnet deep pile microfibre mit - the idea is you can 'dry-wipe' your paintwork to get light dust off without scrathing the finish and it seems to work (although there's already too many scratches on my finish for me to tell properly :/ ) it's great for also wiping dust out of the interior etc. in between protectant applications - very quick and easy.

They make a microfibre chamois now too which would be the go.

Also, for those which machine polishers I highly recommend the Mirror Glaze polishing/finishing pads - they are nicely rounded shape and work very smoothly on the polisher.

One other hint when polishing - if you wanna check if you have got all of the scratches and swirl marks etc. out of your finish properly before sealing it, mix isopropyl alcohol (eg. Isocol) 50:50 with water (distilled or rain water - something clean) in a sprayer and spray and wipe the car with this. This will truly clean the surface. Otherwise polishing compound residue can actually fill-in and disguise some of the scratches etc. it was supposed to be removing and you won't tell.

I got that tip from a Meguires video clip. Go to their US site and check out their video tutorials. They have some good info there. Could be of use to you too Sundeep - they have tutorials on different procedures eg. polishing and waxing etc.

Steve.

[russellw]

Originally Posted by Sundeep

Do you use this instead of a sponge?

Sponges are DEATH to paintwork. They are cunningly designed to trap dirt and then take all those fine particles across your paintwork.

Are the Scratch-X and swirl remover for the same purpose? You use the Gold Class Wax after the Scratch-X and/or Swirl remover right?

The Scratch-X is for deeper things like car park incidents and other fine scratches. The swirl remover I use as a prep for polishing or waxing as it helps to remove all the little marks that still appear from regular washing.

Yeah those clay bars are mad...what are they?...:(

They are exacly that - a little bar made from white clay that is used along with a moistening agent (I use quick detailer) to remove blemishes like inground bugs, sap and almost anything that has adhered to the paint surface.

Cheers
Russ

[Casper]

ok, so in order what would you do please Russ?

wash
clay
scratch X
swirl remover
polish
wax

??? Is that right?? I'm a novice at this as well. :(

[Steve_T]

Well, that sounds about spot-on to me Casper. The only thing I'd add is to wipe over with the isocol/water mix I mentioned above in between the swirl remover and polish steps - that will allow you to inspect the finish properly and ensure it's perfect before you go to polish and waxing or else allow you to go back and fix up any remaining imperfections first. Polish/wax/sealant will actually hide a lot of imperfections if it's good but don't be tempted by this - it's best to fix it up perfect first else the marks etc. will reappear as the coatings break down over time and you'll always be redoing it.

Steve.

[russellw]

As Steve said - that's a good order for a full job. Most weekends (of course) only the first 3 items are required with the first 3 and 5th being a quarterly job and all five being a bi-annual task.

Cheers
Russ

[smciner1]

Originally Posted by russellw

They are exacly that - a little bar made from white clay that is used along with a moistening agent (I use quick detailer) to remove blemishes like inground bugs, sap and almost anything that has adhered to the paint surface.

A great product. I use it regularly on my XR6 as it seems to get a lot of fallout from being parked outside all the time. Fantastic for pulling all the crap out of the paint without removing paint.

[geckoGT]

This is the process that I used to renew my paint after living in a crap water area that went a long way to stuff it for me (hint, don't rely on the paint protection from the dealer, it is crap).

1)A good thorough wash with a mitt in the shade (never wash hot paint and certainly never in a million years polish hot paint).
2)Find the scratches that are more than swirl marks and scratch x them
3)apply swirl remover, take your time and polish those fine scratches away (read the bottle).
4)Buff the entire car, it should feel like glass when you touch that baby(towel or lambswool buff pad).
5)Apply gold class or NXT polish (make sure the car is cold, remember less is more again read the bottle and use the applicator)
6)Let it dry totally, good time to go remind the wife what you look like.
7)buff the car again, not to much pressure (terry towel works best, a pack of cloth nappies gives you twelve). Change your towel regularly, I use a fresh one per panel(missus hates it when I load up the washing machine with my cars nappies, go light on soap powder and use hot water when washing them).
8)Hit the plastic with trim detailer and use a tooth brush to get rid of polish from all the fiddly bits (if you havent gone too heavy on the polish, this should be pretty easy).
9)Clean all the glass, it will have polish dust on it.
10)if you are really enthusiastic you can now hit it with final inspection spray (again less is more, light mist) just to really bring up the shine and take care of any polish residue.
11)Tyre gel the tyres (do this last as it gets on you hands and you don't want it on your paint or glass. Never use this stuff unless it has time to dry (it can fling off), I always use this stuff if I am tucking Gecko into bed!
12)Threaten the life of any living creature(family included) that touches the car, stand back and baske in it's glory, you have earnt this moment.

You can use a buffer if you have good quality pads and know how to use them, don't use too much pressure and don't burn the paint. If you don't trust yourself, go the elbow grease option.

When do you polish again? When water doesn't bead anymore. Basically the whole proceedure but you may be able to drop out the swirl remover if it has been a short time between polishes and the paint still feels like glass. Never do the glass test until you have washed it. If someone admires your paint with their hands (why do they do that), castrate them!

Some may disagree with the way I do things or have a better way, if you do please let me know so I can do it too. This is just the way that I do it and it works for me. It is time consuming but rewarding, a lot like long slow sex! Anyway we all know shiny cars go way faster than dirty ones :

Having spent my early life detailing cars and later buses for a living I believe I have a little experience here. Hope I don't bust too many bubbles but here goes!

" Our shiney happy cleaner lifts dirt and nothing else! " bloody rubbish!

The film on your car during summer is mostly airborne dust and heavy polutants depending on where you live and drive, during winter you can add road grime, oils, rubber, acid rain and other nasties.

The speed at which you drive has a great deal to do with cleaning your car,
the impact energy of dust etc. is the square of your speed, ( physics majors can correct here ) bug splat at 60kms is easy to get off, now have a look at your local truck stop and see what bugs do at 100+kms, ditto to dirt.

Best thing to clean your pride and joy with is cheap clear BABY SHAMPOO,
netural PH. safe on baby, safe on your paint, designed to lift dirt off a crawling baby and still be safe to babies skin.

" Super micro fibre mit/cloth/wipe traps all dirt ! " - right! and then you just rinse the dirt out, - wrong! what is designed to trap dirt will keep dirt, soft natural fibre brushes are best.

If you can afford it, Armaglaze (you in the eastern states have Ming I believe)
BUT only by a specialist with a name to protect, a half baked job is worse than none at all.

Polishes - steer clear of polymers and anything "instant", the top brands fight for your dollars, they all produce top products, how you APPLY the polish is far more important than WHICH polish.

Regards
Prof. Rabbit

Originally Posted by back2thefutura

Paging all Meguiars fanatics!

I need help to develop a Meguiar's 'kit' - basically I want to have all the products i'd need to keep the Focus in good nick. I bought the Vinyl and Rubber Protectant today and I'm very impressed with it. Bought 2 of their chamois' too.

Just going off the website I'm looking at getting the Quick Wax and possibly the Quick Detail - i have no idea how to wax or detail a car so the simpler it is, the better. From what i gather this stuff is just a matter of spraying on and wiping off the excess which sounds good to me.

I may go for some of the Gold Class wash too at a later stage, using a product now which im very happy with but it will run out soon.

So, am i on the right track or is there other products i should look at getting? Im not getting all fanatical about it, but i do want the best stuff i can get.

[geckoGT]

Baby shampoo! Interesting option, a lot cheaper and the theory is there. I never go for anything quick cause it doesnt work.
On the bug front IMHO if you have a good coat of polish, easier clean off.
Had the paint protection, most worthless crap I have ever seen and would not wish it on a holden. Thats from my experience anyway!

[Sundeep]

Ok, I think I'm going to be the first to dive in to this. I've already gone out and bought some shit. Here's what I have now:

-Polyglaze Wash & Wax (used with warm water and pressure cleaner) $3.99
-Mr. Kleen Chamois (used with warm water, wringed after every panel) $3.99

I've had those two for a while and that's all I've used on the body since it was resprayed back in January. It always comes up a treat but after the engine bay spray it got a bit of overspray on it, and I slid the side along some bushes the other day so that doesn't help. I've also started seeing streaks, and the sides don't feel as smooth as they used.

Oh and I use a sponge :S I never knew they were so crap.

Today I went out and bought:

-Turtle Scratch and Swirl remover (I find this works good, and it was the cheaper alternative to Meguiars Scratch X ($19.99) and Meguiars Scratch and Swirl remover ($24.99) at only $13.99.
-Meguiars Gold Class Wax - $34.99 ****en you guys are gunna kill my pocket I'm a student.
-Mr. Kleen Wax on/Wax off towels $2
-Hand towel (free, got a 50m roll sitting in the shed)

So far I just pressure washed one side as it was dusty, not dirty and hit it with the scratch and swirl remover after a quick run over with a chamois. It's coming up good, some of it feels roughish still and some feels like glass. I still have to use the Meguiars stuff though, I'll do that now and compare sides lol.

I can't believe you guys can do this every 2 weeks. **** that. I still have 4/5 of that car to go and it took an hour lol.

BTW, I'm using a 12v buffer to apply and then buffing off by hand. Doesn't help the 12v thingy is working intermittantly hehe.

Your input is appreciated! Thanks for answering those Q's Russ.

Sundeep

[b2tf]

Yeah Sunny Meguiars stuff isnt cheap but then again it's worth paying for from what I've seen so far.

[Sundeep]

Fixed the buffer dooby and I've finished 1 side and the boot now. Not going to bother with the roof, it's sweet as pie from what I can see. Under the windstrips I'm only using the scratch and swirl remover.

Only the bonnet and one side to go!

Coming out pretty good! Better than I thought it would. Seeing as the paint isn't that old I didn't think there'd be much point in this.

Sundeep

[cre8havoc]

Meguiars is the only products I've ever used but recently I found Eagle One "Wax as you dry" AWESOME stuff. Wash ya ride as usual and then spray on as you chamios... _2:

[SVR73]

[QUOTE=prabbit]Having spent my early life detailing cars and later buses for a living I believe I have a little experience here. Hope I don't bust too many bubbles but here goes!

" Our shiney happy cleaner lifts dirt and nothing else! " bloody rubbish!

The film on your car during summer is mostly airborne dust and heavy polutants depending on where you live and drive, during winter you can add road grime, oils, rubber, acid rain and other nasties.

The speed at which you drive has a great deal to do with cleaning your car,
the impact energy of dust etc. is the square of your speed, ( physics majors can correct here ) bug splat at 60kms is easy to get off, now have a look at your local truck stop and see what bugs do at 100+kms, ditto to dirt.

Best thing to clean your pride and joy with is cheap clear BABY SHAMPOO,
netural PH. safe on baby, safe on your paint, designed to lift dirt off a crawling baby and still be safe to babies skin.
Have heard about that, it's not too bad but I prefer a shampoo designed for automotive use.

" Super micro fibre mit/cloth/wipe traps all dirt ! " - right! and then you just rinse the dirt out, - wrong! what is designed to trap dirt will keep dirt, soft natural fibre brushes are best.

There is cheap chinese microfibre which is what alot of people have used and then gone off of them but the korean, american and european microfibre are world class
If you use a regular cotton or terry towel cloth to remove polishes, your spreading product all over the place from the build up on the cloth
Product residue does not build up on microfibre and as you use the cloth, spread all over the paint. The finest in microfibre has 300,000 fibres per inch and does not do what cheesecloth and cotton do
Polish gets all over your hands with cheesecloth and some have more open weave and I hate it.

If you can afford it, Armaglaze (you in the eastern states have Ming I believe)
BUT only by a specialist with a name to protect, a half baked job is worse than none at all.

Dealership paint protection is standard polymer which basically is hydrocarbons (petroleum) and can stain exterior trim.
They only apply one coat which will do bugger all in today's environment

However the paint protection sealants I use and sell are far superior and can actually be used on exterior rubbers and trim
There is acrylic (6 - 12 months lifespan), super polymer (3-6 months), ceramic (4-8 months) and a combination of 3 x klasse acrylic followed by two coats of one from a variety of super polymers and finally a couple layers of carnauba wax, albeit after the right prep with cutters, swirl mark removers, polishes, enhancing glazes like vanilla moose will provide the ultimate in reflections, depth, clearcoat clarity, wetness and durability.
My current combo on paint is Klasse AIO x 1, Vanilla moose, Klasse SG x 3, Full metal jacket x 1 and Ultimate paint protection x 1, concours wax x 1
Chocolate moose on front bumper to provide extra slickness to repel bugs from sticking.

Polishes - steer clear of polymers and anything "instant", the top brands fight for your dollars, they all produce top products, how you APPLY the polish is far more important than WHICH polish.

The cutting edge polishes do not leave residue and are solvent and VOC free

[SVR73]

Originally Posted by cre8havoc

Meguiars is the only products I've ever used but recently I found Eagle One "Wax as you dry" AWESOME stuff. Wash ya ride as usual and then spray on as you chamios... _2:

If you only wash or wash and wax your car, WAUD is excellent however a car fully prepped and protected with sealants should be dried like normal
Almost all synthetic waxes contain silicone and are basically polymer and as such contain lots of petroleum distillates.
They will weaken or strip most sealants in a short time, especially standard or super polymers. Acrylic and ceramics are far stronger.

[SVR73]

[QUOTE=geckoxr8]This is the process that I used to renew my paint after living in a crap water area that went a long way to stuff it for me (hint, don't rely on the paint protection from the dealer, it is crap).

1)A good thorough wash with a mitt in the shade (never wash hot paint and certainly never in a million years polish hot paint).
2)Find the scratches that are more than swirl marks and scratch x them
3)apply swirl remover, take your time and polish those fine scratches away (read the bottle).
4)Buff the entire car, it should feel like glass when you touch that baby(towel or lambswool buff pad).
5)Apply gold class or NXT polish (make sure the car is cold, remember less is more again read the bottle and use the applicator)
6)Let it dry totally, good time to go remind the wife what you look like.
7)buff the car again, not to much pressure (terry towel works best, a pack of cloth nappies gives you twelve). Change your towel regularly, I use a fresh one per panel(missus hates it when I load up the washing machine with my cars nappies, go light on soap powder and use hot water when washing them).
8)Hit the plastic with trim detailer and use a tooth brush to get rid of polish from all the fiddly bits (if you havent gone too heavy on the polish, this should be pretty easy).
9)Clean all the glass, it will have polish dust on it.
10)if you are really enthusiastic you can now hit it with final inspection spray (again less is more, light mist) just to really bring up the shine and take care of any polish residue.
11)Tyre gel the tyres (do this last as it gets on you hands and you don't want it on your paint or glass. Never use this stuff unless it has time to dry (it can fling off), I always use this stuff if I am tucking Gecko into bed!

[B]Today's superior tyre gels contain super polymers and react to the heat in the tyres and if gotten onto the paint or glass, can be easily wiped off with a microfibre cloth and Quick detailer without a problem
The one I use will also work on vinyl, plastic, door seals and leather with no greasy feel and does not sling off or hurt your skin
You can go through mud, dirt, puddles and more and as soon as you drive again the tyres return to black.
Have done a trip to hamilton and back for speedway and got back and after high pressure body and wheel rinse, the tyres were still matte black.

Meguiars tyre gel I find is a mess on trim when it rains, builds up on tyres and doesn't last as long.
Good on door seals though.

Here is another "lob the water balloon" --

Rotary buffers create "swirl marks" and so you use another polish to remove those marks,, each time you are removing finish, so instead of the buffer try an orbital sander WITH A LAMBSWOOL PAD! (just making sure your reading)

Random Orbital sanders are prefered.

That being said there is NO SUBSTITUTE for long straight strokes with your hands and good cloth, cotton wadding, lambswool mit or what have you.

Regards Prof. Rabbit

Originally Posted by Sundeep

Fixed the buffer dooby and I've finished 1 side and the boot now. Not going to bother with the roof, it's sweet as pie from what I can see. Under the windstrips I'm only using the scratch and swirl remover.

Only the bonnet and one side to go!

Coming out pretty good! Better than I thought it would. Seeing as the paint isn't that old I didn't think there'd be much point in this.

Sundeep

[SVR73]

Originally Posted by prabbit

Here is another "lob the water balloon" --

Rotary buffers create "swirl marks" and so you use another polish to remove those marks,, each time you are removing finish, so instead of the buffer try an orbital sander WITH A LAMBSWOOL PAD! (just making sure your reading)

Random Orbital sanders are prefered.

That being said there is NO SUBSTITUTE for long straight strokes with your hands and good cloth, cotton wadding, lambswool mit or what have you.

Regards Prof. Rabbit

Yep Orbitals are prefferred. Porter cables used in the US are really great.
Lambswool pads are a no no on today's finishes. That's what creates swirl marks
A rotary using side to side motions with speed between 650 and 1500 and quality products including menzerna will not cause swirls.
If not used correctly however you will cause holograms which are even worse than swirls

Use a polishing pad with a cutting compound first before going to a cutting pad.
Some cars may only need a light polish and swirl mark remover #1 or 2

[Panda]

After reading this post a couple of days ago I went out and bought that Meguires Clay stuff.

This stuff is the bomb. It deadset leaves the paintwork as smooth as glass.

When I was standing there reading the box I was trying to figure out HOW CLAY COULD POSSIBLY MAKE A DIFFERENCE. When I had finished cleaning my car though, I didn't care how it works, all that I care about is that it DOES WORK. Bloody unbelievable result.

I was sure to wash the car well and then used Meguires Paint Cleaner, because my one concern is - what if you pick up some grit in the clay?

Well worth the $35 IMO

Panda

[b2tf]

Glad to see this thread is helping some others out too! I'm picking up some quick wax tomorrow, as well as some Gel Wash and possibly a cleaning towel to use instead of a sponge. Will let you know what i come up with!

[Sundeep]

Yeah I finished doing my car, I thought I posted hehe.

By using the Turtle Scratch and Swirl Remover I got rid of most of the overspray (can be felt, not seen in one small section) and all swirls. Then after using the Meguiars Gold Class wax the panels feel and look like they've just been pulled out of a booth. The visual change wasn't that dramatic, but then the paint isn't that old.

Overall, pretty good result for $50.

I'll try it on the EL and see how I go, the paint on that has some crap in it and a lot of swirls etc. but it looks decent after a good wash.

Sundeep

Went and picked up some crystal gold class wet look sealant today, along with an applicator and terry towel. It cam in one pack for about $25. Ill give it a go on the weekend and post up the results...

[b2tf]

Hey Reece let me know how the Terry Towel goes - i still find it a bit of a weird thing to use.