Air filter + induction pipe - Page 2

Ben85 · 14-01-2009, 01:00 PM

i just went down to supercheap with the intake pipe in hand and sized them up. Calibre is the brand of the silicone pipe, it cost me $31. Without pulling it apart i'm not sure of the exact size.

zetec jim · 14-01-2009, 01:09 PM

lookin good! who reckons our oil breather could run behind the pod inside the heat-shield...i was thinking of doing this... might get fresher air?

Head Unit looks awesome!

Might sound like a dumb question, but I'm assuming the cold-air hoses are running behind the pod filter inside the heat shield? I spose you cant run anything from the lower part hey, damn those closed fog lights! (not like us WP's) hehe. How does the Powertech sound?

I can't get over how much of a smooth 2.0L sound is coming from my 1.6L now!!!... the stock induction used to sound harsh and raspy... now it's all low and smooth and I cant get over that induction whislte at just above half throttle plus the openess at full throttle seems to have relieved that restricted feeling once you hit above 4500RPM especially in the higher gears.. mmmmmm.....

Ben85 · 14-01-2009, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zetec jim

lookin good! who reckons our oil breather could run behind the pod inside the heat-shield...i was thinking of doing this... might get fresher air?

Head Unit looks awesome!

Might sound like a dumb question, but I'm assuming the cold-air hoses are running behind the pod filter inside the heat shield? I spose you cant run anything from the lower part hey, damn those closed fog lights! (not like us WP's) hehe. How does the Powertech sound?

I can't get over how much of a smooth 2.0L sound is coming from my 1.6L now!!!... the stock induction used to sound harsh and raspy... now it's all low and smooth and I cant get over that induction whislte at just above half throttle plus the openess at full throttle seems to have relieved that restricted feeling once you hit above 4500RPM especially in the higher gears.. mmmmmm.....

I dont kno if the oil breather really needs any fresh air. But not being a mechancic i dont exactly kno wat its for either. lol.

Thanx about the head unit mate. I was impressed when i got it done.

Yea the cold air intakes run down behind the pod, and inside the heat shield. The WQ has knowhere at all to run the intakes from under the car, the whole front end is sealed. I'm pretty confident that these two will do the job tho, i put a wider opening on the end of both of those hoses, so they collect alot of air. The powertec pod sounds amazing!!!! It was expensive, but well worth it, because it sounds better than any i've heard before, and its washable!!!

Mine just roars in all gears between 3000 and 5000rpm's. Gonna burn more fuel i think.

zetec jim · 14-01-2009, 01:48 PM

i think the oil breather might keep oil at consistant temp?... dunno... or just filters gunk out...? not a mechanic either...!

Yeah probs will use more fuel...but with that noise who cares! :evil_laug

NJM586: not sure about the size (haven't taken stock pipe off throttle body yet). Just take the pipe off the T.B. and have a hose clamp/connector handy to re-attach the intake on once you've measured it. the stock clamps are hard to get back on. Get a couple of the adjustable(flathead-screw) ones about the same size as the pipe.

Ben85 · 14-01-2009, 01:50 PM

It should technically use less fuel while its cruising you would think, more cold air, bigger bang, car works less hard. But again dont kno. But i reckon i'll be driving it a bit harder tho, love that noise.

zetec jim · 14-01-2009, 02:06 PM

haha, yeah probably right. the consumption might go up due to fangin' it to get the noise. Although i reckon there's no other way to drive these little beauties.

anthonytsap · 14-01-2009, 05:35 PM

BEN85 what have you used at the end of the intake pipes that run into the grill??? i have my pipe running to underneath the vehicle and not sure how much air it gets under their. so i was looking to put a few more pipes in!

anyway this is my current set up

Ben85 · 14-01-2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anthonytsap

BEN85 what have you used at the end of the intake pipes that run into the grill??? i have my pipe running to underneath the vehicle and not sure how much air it gets under their. so i was looking to put a few more pipes in!

anyway this is my current set up

If you go to bunnings, I used two "pfeiffer save water, Water Reclaimers" either in plumbing or watering. And i also bought drainage pipe with rubber ends at either end. All up cost me $20. You have to cut down the water reclaimers and push them into the rubber ends on the hose, i used electrical tape to hold them together. I'll try and post some more pictures if i get the chance, i'll post some pics with the front grill off.

Ben85 · 14-01-2009, 05:52 PM

Here it is Anthonytsap:-

MISTA FIESTA · 14-01-2009, 06:17 PM

You can definitley run a cold air feed directly in front of the lower grilles in either 1.6L or 2.0L. I know cause ive done it to both my Fezzas. The 1.6L WP has a plastic cover clip thing that you pop out to see through. WQ models im not 100% sure. 2.0L doesnt have any restriction to the front grille but it is a much tighter fit to get it right.

I actually noticed destinctive differences in both engines. Lots more response, car feels more livlier at idle. Ill post up some pixs when i get a sec.

MISTA FIESTA · 14-01-2009, 07:54 PM

Ok no pixs worth posting, but it can be done. Just confirmed the WQ has no such plastic cover thing. Bummers. A cold air feed does do wonders especially sound. The dyno guys thought my 1.6L was turbo.

WPN XR6T · 14-01-2009, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zetec jim

i think the oil breather might keep oil at consistant temp?... dunno... or just filters gunk out...? not a mechanic either...!

The oil breather should, by law, be plumbed back into the air intake system, as no gases (air included, apperently...) may exit the engine anywhere other then the tailpipe. Plumbing the air breather hose into the intake aliviates this as it goes back into the engine. Not a real big deal, but that is why.

NJM586 · 14-01-2009, 08:46 PM

Hey guys,

OK just went out and had a look at the Fez now what i am thinking of doing as i am getting a custom made pipe done im thinking about having the pipe from the throttle body all the way down to the right hand side of the bezel (fog light surrounding) as i have a LX i do not have fog lights this way there is no hot air getting into the filter there are holes in the bezel so the filter can breath but i do have a spare bezel and i will be experimenting of course cutting out a hole so the air goes directly in (sunny days of course) you may think what about rain well im thinking of getting the attached picture filter this will protect it from the rain as well as the road dust rocks etc the air will only be going directly straight into the filter straight to the throttle body

tell me what you think

Just a idea

zetec jim · 14-01-2009, 09:41 PM

funny you should post this up because thats what i'm kinda thinking of doing the same thing as the BMC CDA my mate has will be fairly tight in the space at the top of the engine bay as its a larger capacity one (150mm wide and 200mm long).

However... I'm still a bit apprehensive about a setup like that. Although its all closed off (BMC system or the Blue filter cover pic) and you will be ducting air from the fog bezel, water or crud doesn't have to travel very far before hitting the filter element. (when you think about it most cars have the filtering happening above where any crap can reach.) Just something to consider.

Its gonna be good to see everyones systems in awhile

: :1syellow1

Ben85 · 15-01-2009, 07:42 AM

NJM586 :-Just another thought, that is a long way for the engine to be sucking the air from. The further the air needs to travel before it reaches the engine, the less velocity the air will have when it reaches the motor, also it has more chance to heat up through the long length of piping it needs to travel through to reach the engine.

NJM586 · 15-01-2009, 10:39 AM

Ben85 - I no that is another one of my concerns there really is not enough room in the fiesta engine bay im still trying to think of a difffrent way to place the induction pipe or even if i have the pipe going straight down to the other bezel (left hand side) but there really is no room in the bay also had a look at the front bar no chance the radiator takes up the whole front bar !!!!

Ben85 · 15-01-2009, 11:39 AM

Wat about instead of taking the pod down to the bottom front, why cant you get some air conditioner ducting and run it up to the pod instead? The ducting should run to the engine side of the pod, and the grill side of the pod should be getting plenty of air throught the stock air inlet.

NJM586 · 15-01-2009, 12:33 PM

Yeh thats what my next option was !!! it will be better anyways when service time comes and i have to take it into ford i can unconnected it and put the stock filter back on !!!! still haveing a good think tho

zetec jim · 15-01-2009, 04:22 PM

i think in front of the stock inlet is the best bet, thats why nearly everyone has their intake setup there.

1. there's room (some...)
2. gets stock inlet air
3. can duct up more air from fog grill
4. can create some heat-shielding
5. easy to access
6. good compromise between distance to T.B. and air inlet points
7....... just making these up to compensate for lack of engine-bay room...

NJM586 · 15-01-2009, 08:44 PM

Ok guys i have come to the conclusion that what i will be doing is facing the filter downwards in that small area near the computer and putting a induction pipe from the bezel to the filter that way it is away from the engine heat not that low near the road the pipe will not be long but still getting a good enough of air to the filter i will post pics next week once it is done

Piotr · 15-01-2009, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben85

NJM586 :-Just another thought, that is a long way for the engine to be sucking the air from. The further the air needs to travel before it reaches the engine, the less velocity the air will have when it reaches the motor, also it has more chance to heat up through the long length of piping it needs to travel through to reach the engine.

Where did you pull that rubbish from?

Ben85 · 16-01-2009, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piotr

Where did you pull that rubbish from?

Are you always that abrupt? I dont mind if you wanna tell me i'm wrong, thats what forums are for, the exchange of ideas and thoughts. But you do not need to be rude about it. Plus if your going to write that, atleast come up with a reason as to why my "thought" was "rubbish"!!!!

WPN XR6T · 16-01-2009, 09:42 AM

No Ben, your right. The longer the induction tract, the greater the potential for heat soak and less velocity for an N/A engine to take full advantage from. It's not such a big problem for turbo cars due to the draw from the turbo and intercooling, but an N/A car can use all the help it can get.
I agree, if you are going to rubbish someone, at least back yourself up.

WPN XR6T · 16-01-2009, 09:47 AM

This is the setup I am going for, just waiting for it to get in from the UK, and with this and the Dreamscience flash tuner that turned up the other day, I should be happy with the power mods for the time being.
http://www.grahamgoode.com/website/p...3&item=GGF1022

Ben85 · 16-01-2009, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WPN XR6T

This is the setup I am going for, just waiting for it to get in from the UK, and with this and the Dreamscience flash tuner that turned up the other day, I should be happy with the power mods for the time being.
http://www.grahamgoode.com/website/p...3&item=GGF1022

That looks awesome mate!!!! A little out of my price range, but awesome none the less. What should the power gains be like with a system like that?

Piotr · 16-01-2009, 02:24 PM

Im at work so CBF getting links. But think about this

Why do car manufacters spend millions of dollars developing variable length intake systems when using your theory they should just make everything as short as possible?

Ben85 · 16-01-2009, 02:51 PM

I dont want to argue with you mate. I'm not a mechanic and at no stage did i suggest i was. My theory came from general knowledge. From my line of thinking, the engine can only draw air with so much force, the further force has to travel the more it deminishes due to external factors. I do not kno if the difference would be huge or insignificant in this case. It was only a theory. As WPN XR6T also said, it would make no difference in a turboed car, but in a N/A engine the shorter induction tract does benefit air intake.

And from my knowledge, alot of car manufacturers lengthen and shorten there intake systems to free up or restrict the power of there cars. I kno on the VE Clubsport this is the case, with the long stock air intake the car has 200kw at the rears, by shorten the air intake and remapping the computer it has 260kw at the rears.

But i'll go back to my previous statement, I'm not a mechanic, and i am only throwing out ideas, so that others can give "constructive" feedback.

WPN XR6T · 16-01-2009, 06:58 PM

Also they would have to re-develop parts between models and platforms. With the current set up, this engine can be shoehorned into multiple applications with little to no modification. Look at the lengths Ford went to so they didn't have to move the airbox and battery in the Turbo Falcons. I removed a total of 1.3m of intake track with my current system on my XR6T and it's much better without it.
It's all about the bottom dollor and parts bin scrounging. If Ford can save on R&D and manufacturing costs, they will. Further proof of the fact is my XR4 has the same air vents in the cabin as the Ranger ute at work.

zetec jim · 16-01-2009, 10:03 PM

Right, not much progress from last post, still have to buy cold-air feed pipe and box off the pod somehow... might end up with just a heat shield like Fled.
PS! watch out that your pipe to the throttle body doesn't run too high above the headers, you need just enough to clear them, if you have it too high your bonnet will have trouble opening..
i found out the hard way....

: (if this occurs have someone push down on front of bonnet whilst you pull the bonnet lever).

here's pics for others. again nothin' new:

added two silicon hose adaptors at either end to get tight a fit.
I know you probably should have something stiff at all these joins, but to be honest the stock air-box had its fair share of loose crappy/easy to dislodge joints. The tape on the engine side is just radiator hose tape to prevent the pipe from distorting, even though it clears the manifolds as is.

Gonna have to make a bracket to hold the pod in place (attach it to far right header, there's a mounting point/tab there on WP's anyway).
I'm still keen on making a garage-spec air-box for it as even with a heat shield i think it will still suck in hot air. Have to create a hole to run cold air feed into on the pod side, and a hole for the engine side of the setup if that makes sense. Then if I'm really keen, measure the distance needed to butt-up with foam to the underside of the bonnet to completely close it off (that one might be too hard...) :togo:

WPN XR6T · 17-01-2009, 10:54 AM

Looks the goods mate. Just a tip for measuring clearence between components and the bonnet, in your case the airbox you want to manufacture and the underside of the hood.
Get yourself either some plastisine or bluetac and mound it up to approx. the distance you want to measure + some and stick it between the two. Close the bonnet, and open it back up again and the plastisine/bluetac would have squished down to the size of your gap and voila, you have measurement! Not very scientific, I know, but stuff it, it works!