AU Auto and Hi Stall - Page 2

Casper · 06-10-2005, 07:14 AM

Thats weird, I have no doubt in my mind that mine is getting off the line to 100 considerably quicker. Theres been a few people in my car who have said exactly the same thing.
Bring on Heathcote, all will be clear then when I see the 1/8th times. That will tell the tale of 0-100 in my car for sure.

LG · 06-10-2005, 08:37 AM

My guess, is that you'd need some traction. Get a set of 2nd hand 17" rims, with some sticky 235 rubber. And you should be able to put more power to the ground. Is the stall making you smoke em up or...?

Sourbastard · 06-10-2005, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casper

Thats weird, I have no doubt in my mind that mine is getting off the line to 100 considerably quicker. Theres been a few people in my car who have said exactly the same thing.
Bring on Heathcote, all will be clear then when I see the 1/8th times. That will tell the tale of 0-100 in my car for sure.

I can confirm that Caspers XR6 with stallie is more then a match for your average camry at the lights. :P

xr8ute · 06-10-2005, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LG

My guess, is that you'd need some traction. Get a set of 2nd hand 17" rims, with some sticky 235 rubber. And you should be able to put more power to the ground. Is the stall making you smoke em up or...?

I second that opinion. Plus a prepared track surface is generally more grippy than your average public street.

The GTech may not lie, but it's not telling the full story either...lol

Have a little faith, I reckon you'll do pretty well at WSID on the 5th Nov ;)

**Stav** · 06-10-2005, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LG

My guess, is that you'd need some traction. Get a set of 2nd hand 17" rims, with some sticky 235 rubber. And you should be able to put more power to the ground. Is the stall making you smoke em up or...?

Well I looked at my back tyres this morning and they were like Kojac. I went in and got 2 new back dunlop sports sp300 tyres.Still wheelspins though not as bad.
I have faith.

loxxr6 · 06-10-2005, 07:14 PM

If you have the money get some dumpies. Don't kill your road tyres (or just avoid burn outs on the day).

Casper · 06-10-2005, 07:51 PM

good advice, nothing better then having tyres that are meant to be sacrificed to the gods of the track.. makes for a VERY fun day.

**Stav** · 06-10-2005, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LG

Is the stall making you smoke em up or...?

Its smoking like a bushfire mate.I got these tyres today and they smoke even more.It is like I am on marbles.I think that I am not going to buy an lsd but snow chains for it.

Casper · 06-10-2005, 09:44 PM

Well, not sure what your doing Stav but unless I want to my tyres have no grip issues on launch. I have fiddled a bit with pressures and different launch styles (yes, even an auto has different options) and can get it off the line very quickly with little more than a chirp if anything at all.
Get an LSD, I'm sure it will make the world of difference. Hell, I'm considering shorter diff gears now as the launch is still not as hard as it could be and theres plenty of grip left to handle it.

Moya · 07-10-2005, 01:53 PM

Casper, how much did you pay for your 3.45 & LSD? Just so I know where I stand when I go shopping.

Stock AU2 EECV is 3.7 yeah?

EFFalcon · 07-10-2005, 02:25 PM

caspers car had a 3.45LSD standard.

Moya · 07-10-2005, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFFalcon

caspers car had a 3.45LSD standard.

Oh ok, so whats the going rate for a LSD centre? My AU has the diff whine, so I wanna get that fixed and also get an LSD.

07-10-2005, 04:10 PM

$1300 max should get you a lsd center and what ever diff gears you want fitted .
i had a lsd and 3.45 gears fitted to our au a few months ago and it cost around $1200

Casper · 07-10-2005, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nik

$1300 max should get you a lsd center and what ever diff gears you want fitted .
i had a lsd and 3.45 gears fitted to our au a few months ago and it cost around $1200

Sounds about right fro a drive in, drive out price.

Baboon_AU · 07-10-2005, 11:02 PM

i might sound dumb.. but what is a hi stall converter and what does it actually do...can there be any downfalls from installing one?

**Stav** · 08-10-2005, 07:15 AM

An automatic transmision is coupled to the crankshaft via the flywheel.When you take off the revs go to about 2000 rpm and the car gets off the line.The stall/torque converter is the device which locks the power to back wheels.

A high stall converter will get you off the line quicker by allowing the revs to go higher before lockup and get more power out.

The downside is that fuel economy gets very bad .Going up a hill the car revs much higher.You risk wrecking the transmission because of the excess heat.

When you drive the car at 60 kmph you lose the acceleration you had with the standard converter.At 60 I press it to move and it just keeps revving until it hits 2700 rpm and feels doughy.At medium throttle its a different story it takes off harder then feels quite uninspiring because the gears change and must go through the rev range to keep the car going.

You have to sum up if having an unresponsive car on the street that uses alot of fuel at normal driving and alot more at freeway speeds is worth it.
Couple that with the fact that you need a cooler due to the fact that there is so much slippage from converter cooking the transmission oil.

Other guys here get limp home mode from their converters after stalling it up 2 to 3 times.I have been lucky with that.I have no cooler connected yet and do as many stalls as I want have no issues at all. I was incredibly lucky.I know that the more efficient a converter is that it produces less heat.If this is the case with mine then it is working well.A big cooler cannot make up for the innefficiency of a coverter and the resulting heat.

I have always tried to be honest in my observations and been shot down a few times but dont give a crap.This is how a stall coverter is.Personally as a ford forums friend get some diff gears first...like 3.7's ..stallie is more a drags orientated mod

Dauphin · 08-10-2005, 02:52 PM

So is the term "lockup" the point at which the shaft to the wheels starts turning from the force of the engine? So the more turning force happening before it locks up, the harder it's going to drive the wheels / accellerate the car when it begins? I guess this is why you have to get the revs higher for it to move like it did before the new one. I hope I'm right?

How does a torque convertor work when reversing the car?

Dauphin · 08-10-2005, 02:57 PM

I wonder if one day you could get a torque convertor that has something like rigid yet variable / selectable vane angles and separation for extra economy or performance modes.

**Stav** · 08-10-2005, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dauphin

I wonder if one day you could get a torque convertor that has something like rigid yet variable / selectable vane angles and separation for extra economy or performance modes.

I dont see why not.I do believe that a techno head would be able to raise stall speed via ecu.

xr8ute · 08-10-2005, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dauphin

I wonder if one day you could get a torque convertor that has something like rigid yet variable / selectable vane angles and separation for extra economy or performance modes.

I think thats called a clutch, lol ;)

Yep converter works in reverse as well. It's a hydraulic coupling (and the only coupling) between the engine and gearbox, so there is no drive to the rear wheels without it.

xr8ute · 08-10-2005, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

I dont see why not.I do believe that a techno head would be able to raise stall speed via ecu.

The only external factor that will measurably affect the 'stall' speed of a converter is the engine torque. ECU can't directly affect that, unless the engine wasn't tuned properly in the first place...

Dauphin · 08-10-2005, 05:18 PM

Useless, I thought that the thing was purely a mechanical fluid drive and reacts to power / torque only. Are you saying that someone can hack the AU to change it to react like a hi-stall one?

XR8Ute, I'm just a bit lost as to how the blades inside the unit can pickup movement going the other way when they are angled in one direction. I think I don't properly understand it - back to school for me.

xr8ute · 08-10-2005, 05:23 PM

The engine, and transmission input shaft (and hence Torque Converter) still turn in the same direction. It's in the middle of the gearbox that things get turned around for Reverse gear...

Dauphin · 08-10-2005, 05:29 PM

Of course, I didn't think to check that little fact - it's before the gearbox.

Casper · 08-10-2005, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dauphin

Useless, I thought that the thing was purely a mechanical fluid drive and reacts to power / torque only. Are you saying that someone can hack the AU to change it to react like a hi-stall one?

No, not possible with current converters BUT you can hack the ECU (In fact the wires to the ECU) to remove the 'lockup' feature.

jonbays · 08-10-2005, 05:40 PM

The transmission solenoids are electronicly controlled by the ecu but the toque converter isn't so other than changing the lock up point there is not much you can do to it.

**Stav** · 08-10-2005, 06:04 PM

Well my theory in my mind was that the lockup will only occur when line pressure has increased enough for lock up to occur. Low line pressure may allow higher stall speed.How right I am I am not sure.I do know that some research on my side has led me to some interesting theories further on the electronic 4 speed.I will test them on 5 thnovember.If my new mini circuits do not work then there is no need to tell anyone.

xr8ute · 08-10-2005, 06:30 PM

Torque converter lockup is completely electronic (turned on/off by solenoid), and is unaffected by line pressure. Line pressure is hydraulic pressure inside the gearbox, not the converter.

Also, be careful not to confuse the torque converter lockup feature with converter stall, they are two totally different things.

Casper · 08-10-2005, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8ute

Torque converter lockup is completely electronic (turned on/off by solenoid), and is unaffected by line pressure. Line pressure is hydraulic pressure inside the gearbox, not the converter.

Also, be careful not to confuse the torque converter lockup feature with converter stall, they are two totally different things.

Exactly correct.

Dauphin · 08-10-2005, 06:43 PM

I was a little confused by the terms "lockup" and "stall" but now I understand.

Stall occurs when the fluid drive system starts to turn the wheels using the turbine / impellers.

Lockup is when the wheels are turning enough (after stall occurs) that it can lockup a clutch to finish with the fluid system and directly connect the engine to the wheels like a manual.

Then it goes back into fluid drive mode when coming back to a stop or slow speeds.