New to cycling - Page 2

gtfpv · 19-09-2011, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoGT

I guess the best way to put it is a Ferrari really quicker than a F100?

A good bike makes a lot of difference, rotating mass (wheels, tyres etc) more than static mass (frame).

I have a carbon fibre Eddy Merckx and it is a dream to ride, could not imagine doing a long ride on a hybrid.

The important thing is how much do you want to get into it? That 1 question dictates how much money you poor into the hardware.

i love that bike gecko , what's it worth to buy new . ????

blueoval · 19-09-2011, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgt_doofey

Shav, if you're interested, a couple of good rides coming up soon. Amy's Ride which allows you to ride the length of the Southern Expressway and then in to McLaren Vale is pretty good. Shortest ride is 30kms, then 60kms, then 100kms. You pick which one you want. I've done it the last two years.

Also, the Bupa Community Challenge for the Tour Down Under is another great ride to do. The distances there are this year are 33kms, 79kms, 102kms or 138kms. Done this three times now.

I'm going to be doing the 79km ride in the TDU. Haven't signed up for Amy's Ride yet, but will most likely do the 60km one.

Mate, Im about to sign up for Amy's ride. Thinking of tackling the 30km ride with the mrs as she isn't as mad as me. But seriously considering the BUPA challenge for the TDU as well in Jan.

I've been keeping close eye on the Adelaide Cyclists forum for details and what not. So it's been good.

But yeah Amy's for sure. 60% sure on the BUPA challenge hoping my flat bar roadies is ok with it.

With the BUPA challenge am thinking of the Tanunda to Tanunda route with my business partner. He is soon to get himself a bike so he doesnt want to go nuts.

I reckon I could handle the 60km one as a good challenge.

blueoval · 19-09-2011, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyxr6t04

One other thing i use is an app on my iphone called log your run. It's free, and it basically uses GPS to log where you have been. It's great for keeping motivated and trying to better a previous time or what not. It also uploads to the internet, so you can keep track of progress.

Also has useful features like current speed, average speed, calories burned, and a few other things.

I have a similar app on my phone called 'My tracks'. Brilliant app and works in conjunction with Google maps. Logs, distance, speed, average speed, time riden, altitude, elevation, etc. Love it and use it to keep track of where I have been. Plus it's free so its a win in my books.

TZENU · 19-09-2011, 12:19 PM

Good luck with it.... Cycling is very addictive!

Within the first 3 months of cycling on trails with a hybrid, I upgraded to a cheap road bike (Giant OCR 3) and that alone made an awesome difference in cadence and speed..

If you prefer to go the road bike I route I would personally begin with looking at an alloy frame bike with 105 gearing (some might argue with this but I find it is a nice compromise between comfort and speed), which will last many years of cycling and won't hit the hip pocket as hard as a carbon fibre bike.
As has been mentioned a proper bike fit is essential if you plan on clocking up the Kms to avoid injury. (I had developed a knee problem and was advised to get properly fitted. Since that day I have never had any problems)
From there you can teach yourself how the gear's work and which gears are best suited for the areas you ride.. and aim to keep your cadence in the 90 range.

I started off on a Giant OCR 3 which all up incl accessories set me back about $1k... I rode that for 2 years and clocked up around 8,000km
The bug had bitten so I upgraded to a Bianchi 1885 with a veloce gearset and some Kysirium wheels, rode that for 6 years and was a dream to ride in comparison to the OCR 3.
Earlier this year, I acquired by first carbon fibre bike a 2012 Ridley Helium (Vacansoleil team).. This thing to me, is the bees knees and only weighs 7kg with wheels, pedals, stem and handlebars and hopefully next year will start competing in some crits.

If you asked me what I thought about cycling 10 years ago, I would have laughed at you and told you that if you wanted to lose weight, start running... Since starting I have lost a decent amount of weight, but have also gained a lot more power in my legs, which I would never have had if all I did was run!

Stick it out and you'll be rewarded and there is no doubting that!!

O/T V.Nice Merckx gecko!!

blueoval · 19-09-2011, 12:32 PM

great post TZENU. You've got some pretty decent bikes mate. Im impressed.

I can't stress the need for proper bike fit. It's the difference between comfort and pain if you ask me. The amount of people I see that are seated wrong on their bikes astounds me.

I specced up my flat bar with bar extentions, clip pedals, and the usual stuff like lights and emergency tubes, pump, and small tools to fix a flat and make adjustments while Im out etc.

XR6_661 · 19-09-2011, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

Mate, Im about to sign up for Amy's ride. Thinking of tackling the 30km ride with the mrs as she isn't as mad as me. But seriously considering the BUPA challenge for the TDU as well in Jan.

I've been keeping close eye on the Adelaide Cyclists forum for details and what not. So it's been good.

But yeah Amy's for sure. 60% sure on the BUPA challenge hoping my flat bar roadies is ok with it.

With the BUPA challenge am thinking of the Tanunda to Tanunda route with my business partner. He is soon to get himself a bike so he doesnt want to go nuts.

I reckon I could handle the 60km one as a good challenge.

I just signed up for a half iron man challenge...I'm on the bike leg. 90km.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to die...going to have to avg about 30kph I'm thinking. At least it'll be on a nice light road bike and not a great hulking piece of metal with knobbies. haha

blueoval · 19-09-2011, 01:18 PM

hahahaha. You'll be fine mate. Just train hard before hand and don't compete with anyone else but yourself. Preparation is key to anything as serious as a tri event or Iron man for that matter.

sgt_doofey · 19-09-2011, 08:26 PM

You'll be right XR6_661. I did the TDU challenge tour ride last year, the 60km one, with only 2 training rides under my belt. I injured my knee and couldn't get out on the bike to train beforehand. Just take it easy and you'll get through it.

Shav, with the TDU tour this year, I hope you like climbing hills! All distances have to climb Mengler's Hill outside Tanunda which is the second king of the mountain climb on the stage. I rode it a few months back and it's a killer. Approx 3km long, 7% grade and a gain of 198m in altitude. It's all downhill from the top though.
You'll be right with the flat bar bike though. Two work mates rode the 60km last year with us on hybrids. They were actually faster than me on my road bike, but they ride to work each day!

blueoval · 19-09-2011, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgt_doofey

....Shav, with the TDU tour this year, I hope you like climbing hills! All distances have to climb Mengler's Hill outside Tanunda which is the second king of the mountain climb on the stage. I rode it a few months back and it's a killer. Approx 3km long, 7% grade and a gain of 198m in altitude. It's all downhill from the top though.
You'll be right with the flat bar bike though. Two work mates rode the 60km last year with us on hybrids. They were actually faster than me on my road bike, but they ride to work each day!

Interesting. I read on the TDU website that people who do the Tanunda part can opt to chicken out of Menglers Hill if they want and take the by pass route. Im not one to back out of a challenge though. I tend to do better with hills than outright high cadence. So I may give the hill a shot even if its a slower pace.

geckoGT · 19-09-2011, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtfpv

i love that bike gecko , what's it worth to buy new . ????

Difficult to answer that question as many of the components are quite old. The groupset is a 2004 Durace, 2004 FSA carbon cranks, 2004 Campag Eurus wheelset etc.

The frame is a 2007 model Eddy Merckx Carbon that I bought as NOS this year. It was brand new, never built up or ridden but a 4 year old model sold at a clear out price. It would have been worth over $4000 new as a frame, fork and seat post, I got it for $1500. If I was to build that bike with the modern equivalents of all the gear on it at todays prices, it would total at over $9000.

Buying NOS frames and components at clear out prices and then getting it built can be a great way to get top quality gear at moderate quality prices if you know what you are doing. I would not suggest that for the novice but when you get on that level gear it makes a massive difference to the riding experience.

For the novice to the sport after a good entry level bike to fulfill their requirements and feed their enthusiasm, I would suggest the quality aluminium frame, 105 components combo that has been mentioned before. That is a good place to start and will even see you through to entry/mid level competition if the bug really bites. That is what my daughter is on (a Specialized) and she is quite a keen club level racer.

blueoval · 19-09-2011, 09:13 PM

This is nothing compared to some of the bikes mentioned and shown on here, but I am pretty proud of my Kona Dew Plus I bought recently. Handles great and seems keep on going. I know when my riding skills improve, I will want a proper roadie. But I can still pump this thing without too many problems.

(picture is just an example, will post pics of my actual bike when there is more light)

Specs:
Frame
Kona 7005 Aluminum Butted
Rear Shock N/A
Fork Kona Project Two Aluminum
Crankarms Shimano M-311
Chainrings 48/38/28
Bottom Bracket Shimano UN-26
Pedals Shimano Clip pedals
Chain KMC Z72
Freewheel Shimano HG40 11-34 8 spd
Front Derailleur Shimano Altus
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore SGS
Shifters Shimano Rapidfire
Brake Calipers Shimano M445 Hydraulic Disc
Front Brakes Shimano 160mm
Rear Brakes Shimano 160mm
Brake Levers Shimano M445 Hydraulic
Headset CH
Handlebars Kona Aluminum Riser with added bar extensions.
Stem Kona Control
Seatpost Kona Thumb w/offset
Seat Clamp Kona Clamp
Grips Kona Race Light
Saddle Kona Comfort
Front Hub KT Disc
Rear Hub KT Disc
Spokes Sandvik Stainless 15g fr / 14g rr
Rims Shining MT-20
Tyres Kenda K-935 700x35C
Extras Kona Bell
Weight 13kg

DBourne · 19-09-2011, 09:19 PM

Good on ya Sam!
Cycling is a great activity. When I started I was 96.9kg (I'm 5'7") and found that it was really hard to ride 5km at first, but within no time was riding 20km no dramas and now 30km is just a normal ride.

Easily dropped 27kg with no change to diet.

It can be great fun cos you get to be out and about exploring, plus you get a sense of speed.

Enjoy mate

gtfpv · 19-09-2011, 10:49 PM

MATE I'M ON THIS . AND IT DOES ME , however was quite sick of people in thier 50's and 60's passing me on rides where i'm sitting over 30km's an hour often and averaging 27.5km/hr
http://tbsm.com.au/index.php?main_pa...oducts_id=2692

blueoval · 19-09-2011, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtfpv

MATE I'M ON THIS . AND IT DOES ME , however was quite sick of people in thier 50's and 60's passing me on rides where i'm sitting over 30km's an hour often and averaging 27.5km/hr
http://tbsm.com.au/index.php?main_pa...oducts_id=2692

The Mavic rims seem to be the beez knees with a lot of people. I have heard mixed reviews about the Sora drivetrain though. How do you find it? Is it good?

gtfpv · 19-09-2011, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

The Mavic rims seem to be the beez knees with a lot of people. I have heard mixed reviews about the Sora drivetrain though. How do you find it? Is it good?

to be honest i have nothing to compare it too , i've done 750kms though over 3 months , and the sora gears have copped a hiding , i dont think they like changing under hard powering up a hill tend to jump a few teeth on the back cogs if you do that, but everywhere else they are fine ,and dont miss a beat, i change them all the time to maintain my speed and cadence , anything better would have to be good .

blueoval · 20-09-2011, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtfpv

to be honest i have nothing to compare it too , i've done 750kms though over 3 months , and the sora gears have copped a hiding , i dont think they like changing under hard powering up a hill tend to jump a few teeth on the back cogs if you do that, but everywhere else they are fine ,and dont miss a beat, i change them all the time to maintain my speed and cadence , anything better would have to be good .

That's the thing, i think it depends on how well you can adapt with what you have. that's what i have noticed with my bike. the f/d is shimano altus and the r/d is shimano deore and i find the f/d can be a bit of a pig to swap cogs at low speeds. but i have learned to adapt, keep the cadence high and speed high and it will comply fine. but that bike of yours looks dam nice and would be a dream to ride compared to mine. im actually thinking of getting a 2010-2011 trek 1.2 as they are a run out special atm. Any thoughts for a enthusiastic beginner like me?

XR6_661 · 20-09-2011, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

The Mavic rims seem to be the beez knees with a lot of people. I have heard mixed reviews about the Sora drivetrain though. How do you find it? Is it good?

Mavic rims are the beez knees! That's why.

Drivetrains are only as good as maintain them...Can have a $400 rear mech but if you don't look after it, it'll be cruddy

TZENU · 20-09-2011, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

. im actually thinking of getting a 2010-2011 trek 1.2 as they are a run out special atm. Any thoughts for a enthusiastic beginner like me?

The trek 1.2 is a solid entry point into road cycling. My OCR 3 had similar specs, the only difference being the name of the bike... When you do eventually upgrade to a higher specced bike you can keep the trek for training rides and workhorse duties.

This is my workhorse with its original wheels not the mavics... It has served me well and hasn't yet retired

This one is the racer
2012 Helium (Full CF frame), SRAM red (TdF yellow edition) groupset, dura ace carbon pedals, prologo saddle and Fast forward f6R clinchers... To get the bike lighter i've ordered some CF handlebars and stem.

If i had of jumped straight onto the Helium when i first started cycling I don't think i would have appreciated it as much as I do now. Cant wait for crit season!

DBourne · 20-09-2011, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtfpv

to be honest i have nothing to compare it too , i've done 750kms though over 3 months , and the sora gears have copped a hiding , i dont think they like changing under hard powering up a hill tend to jump a few teeth on the back cogs if you do that, but everywhere else they are fine ,and dont miss a beat, i change them all the time to maintain my speed and cadence , anything better would have to be good .

Sora is fine for most people (including me) the only benefit most people will get from upgrading to ultegra and dura-ace is bragging rights really.. Sure they'll be a bit lighter but are you going to notice that when starting out? Probably not.

My bike came with sora groupset and I replaced the cranks with Ultegra ones, did I notice the difference? Not at all. Are the shineyer and look nicer? Sure.

As far as changing gears under load goes, no gear is going to do that well. You need to be in the right gear before heading up the hill.

geckoGT · 20-09-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SgtBourne

Sora is fine for most people (including me) the only benefit most people will get from upgrading to ultegra and dura-ace is bragging rights really.. Sure they'll be a bit lighter but are you going to notice that when starting out? Probably not.

My bike came with sora groupset and I replaced the cranks with Ultegra ones, did I notice the difference? Not at all. Are the shineyer and look nicer? Sure.

As far as changing gears under load goes, no gear is going to do that well. You need to be in the right gear before heading up the hill.

On a entry level you are right in many areas but only when starting out with fairly low kms.

Higher end groups deal with larger amounts of km's due to better materials and bearings. A high end group will also shift better under most circumstances, I can shift my durace during a mid climb up Mount Tambourine which is equivalent to a UCI Cat 2.

Considering 105 equipped bikes are down to about $1000 now, I would consider this a minimum to spend on a bike that is going to be used for regular riding for fitness. Anything less than that probably will not provide the longevity and therefore end up costing more in the long run.

By the way, cranks are the area that there is the least functional difference except weight and wear which are both difficult to perceive a difference. The difference between Sora and Durace in the area of chain, sprockets, shifters, calipers and derailleurs is spectacular. This is because these are all mechanical high wear components.

For example, the durace group on my Merckx has well over 50,000 kms on it and I am still on the original shifters, calipers, derailleurs and bottom bracket. The chain, sprockets and cranks have been changed but show me a Sora group that can give that sort of longevity.

The key to any groupset and getting longevity out of it though is maintenance, keep you bike clean (grit kills things) and service it regularly. A well maintained bike is a fast bike, you have limited power so do not let unnecessary friction chew it up.

blueoval · 20-09-2011, 11:15 AM

TZENU - That ridley is sex on wheels mate. Bloody nice. I see what you mean by workhorse bike though. The Bianchi still looks in good working nick still. Perhaps when the time comes, my Kona can be used as a work horse, I'll see how I go. But the Trek looks dam nice.

Specs are here for anyone interested --> http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/bicyc...e/sa/100247544

If funds permitted, I like the componentry of the Kona Zing Deluxe

http://2011.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=zing_deluxe

geckoGT · 20-09-2011, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

TZENU - That ridley is sex on wheels mate. Bloody nice. I see what you mean by workhorse bike though. The Bianchi still looks in good working nick still. Perhaps when the time comes, my Kona can be used as a work horse, I'll see how I go. But the Trek looks dam nice.

Specs are here for anyone interested --> http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/bicyc...e/sa/100247544

If funds permitted, I like the componentry of the Kona Zing Deluxe

http://2011.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=zing_deluxe

What is the price difference out of those two?

Looking at the specs, the 105 group of the Kona is a much better option than the Sora/Tiagra of the Trek.

blueoval · 20-09-2011, 11:34 AM

Price difference is $1090. The Kona Zing is $1899, the Trek 1.2 is on special at $809.

DBourne · 20-09-2011, 11:37 AM

50,000kms Gecko? Jebus!!

My Sora set has done just north of 6,200kms still going fine.

I have no doubt that the high end stuff has it's advantages but for someone only JUST getting in to cycling there's no point.

Exactly the same as camera gear. Yes a $2,600 camera body takes a meaty dump on a entry level $800, but for a beginner photographer it's not worth it.

TZENU · 20-09-2011, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

TZENU - That ridley is sex on wheels mate. Bloody nice. I see what you mean by workhorse bike though. The Bianchi still looks in good working nick still. Perhaps when the time comes, my Kona can be used as a work horse, I'll see how I go. But the Trek looks dam nice.

Specs are here for anyone interested --> http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/bicyc...e/sa/100247544

If funds permitted, I like the componentry of the Kona Zing Deluxe

http://2011.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=zing_deluxe

Thanks mate.
Not to throw a spanner into the works but take a look at Giants too (they are great bang for buck)...
http://www.cyclingexpress.com.au/cyc...ria-elite.aspx complete bike with 105s which I have heard good stories about..

Spend a weekend down at a couple of LBS' and ask whether you can take some for a test ride.. You'll find that some are very accomodating and will let you take the bikes for a 20km+ ride... Comfort is a very personal thing and when riding you want to ensure that you are comfortable or you will quickly become discouraged.

geckoGT · 20-09-2011, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

Price difference is $1090. The Kona Zing is $1899, the Trek 1.2 is on special at $809.

More than I expected but having said that the Kona has a much better wheelset and other components too.

A really good option is to have a look at second hand bikes, many people update frequently to get the new model and sell their old steed at a great loss.

geckoGT · 20-09-2011, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SgtBourne

50,000kms Gecko? Jebus!!

My Sora set has done just north of 6,200kms still going fine.

I have no doubt that the high end stuff has it's advantages but for someone only JUST getting in to cycling there's no point.

Exactly the same as camera gear. Yes a $2,600 camera body takes a meaty dump on a entry level $800, but for a beginner photographer it's not worth it.

At the height of my road racing 6,000 kms was only about 6-8 weeks of riding for me. Training for Ironman (my present group set has done 2) I was clocking up those sort of k's in under 12 weeks.

You are very right at entry level riders but sometimes it is a good idea to carefully consider just how far you intend to take it. If you only plan on doing up to 100 km's a week and no more, Sora is ok. If you think it may go beyond that then I would suggest 105 at least. Buying a $800 bike and then getting rid of it after 1 yr for a $1800 bike is more expensive than spending $1800 initially and getting 4 years or more use out of it.

My last frame gave me 7 years of service, I only replaced it because I found a Merckx. I will eventually build the old frame back up as a time trial bike, the components are still going as they are now on the Merckx.

geckoGT · 20-09-2011, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TZENU

Thanks mate.
Not to throw a spanner into the works but take a look at Giants too (they are great bang for buck)...
http://www.cyclingexpress.com.au/cyc...ria-elite.aspx complete bike with 105s which I have heard good stories about..

Spend a weekend down at a couple of LBS' and ask whether you can take some for a test ride.. You'll find that some are very accomodating and will let you take the bikes for a 20km+ ride... Comfort is a very personal thing and when riding you want to ensure that you are comfortable or you will quickly become discouraged.

Nice work there, I would spend the extra $300 for that Azzuri than the Sora equipped Trek, the Azzuri is a much better equipped bike and well worth the extra money.

EB# · 20-09-2011, 12:22 PM

This is a good read... A bit inspiring too.
I reckon more riding would certainly help with my fitness and hopefully I
could drop a few kilos as well. Maybe this summer I can jump on the
bike more often !

Here is my Giant Suede.

https://www.fordforums.com.au/photos/data/2937/DSC05859.jpg[/IMG]

https://www.fordforums.com.au/photos/data/2937/DSC05804.jpg[/IMG]

https://www.fordforums.com.au/photos/data/2937/DSC05872.jpg[/IMG]

Specs page here

This bike is certainly not for long distance riding, but is very comfy for
general cruising around town. I did replace the rubber with a pair of
'CST City' tyres which make the bike quicker and smoother.

blueoval · 20-09-2011, 12:25 PM

Thanks TZENU and yes for that price the Azzuri has the goods and better pricing. One thing I personally want to avoid is buying and selling bikes often. If I can get 3-4 years plus out of a good bike worth paying a bit extra for, I'd rather do that. Than skimp out and wanting to P it off after 12 months.

Also considering the second hand route as well.

I know there are risks to buying online sight unseen. But when it comes to sizing, how do you guys get that right? Like Im a 59cm for my FB road/hybrid bike but I know with the full road bikes the position is different, so would the sizing be different then? Or would I be some other size?