Anyone tried Vapourate fuel saver?

[The Taipan]

What was the cost of product and installation?

Roughly how many km before the product "pays for itself".

Keep us updated.

[bscampbell]

Originally Posted by geckoxr8

I never realised the fuel guage on these things is so inaccurate!

Yeah, I found them (trip meters) to be quite inaccurate, but it becomes more accurate the longer it is left, ie. not reset.
The differences I got from the trip computer and by my calculations was up to 2L/100km LESS!

Oh, and don't trust the km's to empty indicator either!
It said 8km when I ran out of fuel 1km from the servo

[Mike Gayner]

Falcon fuel guages are notoriously innacurate, and always have been going way back to the early birds and continuing through to the BA.

[geckoGT]

Was supposed to cost me $289. got it through a friend for $209. Did the install myself, not hard if you have a bit of mechanical knowledge but a bit of mucking around.

[jabba]

Good report Lynton. Is this the mod that is going to kick my *** at morgan park. Ha ha... good news for me also, I will have my edit in the next few days.. I can't wait, and then that the new plenum in about 4 weeks...

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by jabba

Good report Lynton. Is this the mod that is going to kick my *** at morgan park. Ha ha... good news for me also, I will have my edit in the next few days.. I can't wait, and then that the new plenum in about 4 weeks...

You wish! Of course not. I was looking at a GT motor but for the money it would cost to buy and fit I can get a better result out of my motor with some work done to it. Exhaust is next and then the motor finally gets cracked open :

I have been playing a little in the beast today and the power is actually pretty good. Indicated consumption is 14.4, way better than the 16-17 it would normally be with that sort of driving (back wheels chirping 1-2 change)

[clampy]

woah...

i never would've expected those changes..

[geckoGT]

Early days yet, I want to try it out for a couple more weeks before I add my endorsement (for what it is worth)

[BIGDOG]

I have Installed 2 kits lately and will keep a eye on this thread as I am waiting for feed back. I am about to fit a kit to an AU111 XR8. I am waiting for him to supply me with his fuel figures.We need to keep this thread alive until we know the facts/figures etc. etc.

BIGDOG

[EA2BA]

Sounding good so far, I know a guy at work with a BOSS 290 who would be very interested to hear the results, its currently using 18.1L/100 but hasnt dont the magic 10,000 either yet.

[richo77]

i read that with the vaporate if your car previously needed PULP you can safely go down to standard ULP, now that would make it worthwhile if gecko's fuel savings are confirmed.

anyone done an AU XR8 yet? how difficult is it to DIY? the injectors are easy enough to access, do you just ubplug the connector and unscrew? and do you need to de-pressurise the fuel system first? excuse my ignorance!

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by richo77

i read that with the vaporate if your car previously needed PULP you can safely go down to standard ULP, now that would make it worthwhile if gecko's fuel savings are confirmed.

anyone done an AU XR8 yet? how difficult is it to DIY? the injectors are easy enough to access, do you just ubplug the connector and unscrew? and do you need to de-pressurise the fuel system first? excuse my ignorance!

Teach you I will! Yes you do need to depressurise as you get new o rings for the fuel rail (good idea to replace), depressurising is easy, just pull the fuel pump fuse out with the engine running and let it stall. Then it is a case of pull the injectors out, replace the o rings (top and bottom, supplied) and fit the collets. There may be a little plastic rim on the injector that will prevent proper fitting of the collets, just remove this gently, I used side cutters very carefully for this. There is a small rubber band type thing that goes around the top of the collet to hold them together while you place the injector in. Once in place the manifold holds it in place. Fuel rail back on and fuse back in and you are done, easy but fiddly.

[BIGDOG]

WARNING [I][U]
Incorrect/uneducated DIY fitting could be costly .
Idiots have destroyed engines fitting these kits.
BIGDOG

[BIGDOG]

Direct from Vaporate

What happens if the vehicle shows no improvement?

If there is no improvement at any time up to three months after the date of purchase, contact Vaporate on 1300 737 632. You will be asked a series of questions to establish if the problem can be identified and whether it is product, installation or vehicle related. This may require you to visit an authorised installer. If it is product related, you will receive an authorisation number and then be entitled to a full money-back guarantee on the price of the system, fitment and removal.

Why risk DIY with that statement

[BIGDOG]

Direct from Vaporate

What happens if the vehicle shows no improvement?

If there is no improvement at any time up to three months after the date of purchase, contact Vaporate on 1300 737 632. You will be asked a series of questions to establish if the problem can be identified and whether it is product, installation or vehicle related. This may require you to visit an authorised installer. If it is product related, you will receive an authorisation number and then be entitled to a full money-back guarantee on the price of the system, fitment and removal.

Why risk DIY with that statement.

BIGDOG

[Cav]

I dunno but if an invention can save fuel consumption markedly then we would all be beating a path to his door.
To test such a device you need to do proper testing including control testing, otherwise it merely reflects your attitude to the product. Because you have spent some money, subjectively you want it to work. So you may not open the throttle as much.
In my experience I've found that two things affect fuel consumption: speed and weight.

[EA2BA]

Originally Posted by Cav

I dunno but if an invention can save fuel consumption markedly then we would all be beating a path to his door.
To test such a device you need to do proper testing including control testing, otherwise it merely reflects your attitude to the product. Because you have spent some money, subjectively you want it to work. So you may not open the throttle as much.
In my experience I've found that two things affect fuel consumption: speed and weight.

geckoxr8 is doing just that, he has not changed is driving style, he is trying to prove it does not work, but so far it appears to be passing the test and does actually work, as to how well and the expected time frame to recoup costs, well thats next to be calculated when we have some good data to work with.

[gozza]

Originally Posted by bscampbell

Oh, and don't trust the km's to empty indicator either!
It said 8km when I ran out of fuel 1km from the servo

ive ran mine down to zero
not good but i was a very poor boy a while ago
i came to the conclusion after zero u should have a few more k's left just incase
i dirve an ebII

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by Cav

I dunno but if an invention can save fuel consumption markedly then we would all be beating a path to his door.
To test such a device you need to do proper testing including control testing, otherwise it merely reflects your attitude to the product. Because you have spent some money, subjectively you want it to work. So you may not open the throttle as much.
In my experience I've found that two things affect fuel consumption: speed and weight.

I have approached this whole thing with the attitude of "I will spend $200 just so I can prove it doesn't work and I get to say I told you so", at the moment I am being proved wrong. I have done quite a few K's in the last couple of days that were really short trips on a cold motor, playing a bit and even using a bit of WOT to get the back end chirping, just cause I love my 8.

I had a highway run for 15km to work this morning and the indicated consumption is back to 14.1L/100km, only got as high as 14.8L/100km. I know my car well (have had nearly 70,000km to learn) and normally I have to drive pretty sedate with just the occasional spirited acceleration to go below 15L/100km. I am sorry but I can't argue with results. I will be filling up on saturday or sunday as I have a cruise on this sunday. I will be able to give the consumption and trip calculation for this week after I fill. I will also do another after the cruise as that will be a good mix of some open road as well as some spirited driving through winding mountain roads. In spirited driving through these conditions as well as the open road stuff I would be expecting a consumption of about 17-19L/100km, we will see how it goes.

I would love to be able to say it is snake oil but I can't. As for why isn't everyone flocking to it if it is so good? Has anyone actually tried it before? If it is my imagination, I don't mind because it saved me $11 in one week! Keeping in mind that is with an equal average speed to normal, over the same roads to the same places and still be first away from the lights all the time. I like my imagination :1syellow1

[EA2BA]

The main reason for my doubting the product is that they suggets clean/service the injectors on an older car would be a fuel saving just by itself in most cases (i know you have not done this), they also suggest drive like grandma/grandpa well this again would lead to a fuel saving for alot of people (again i know you have not changed driving style).

I see they have a money back guarantee but i am sure if my injectors have not been cleaned/serviced or I drive like grandpa then I highly doubt the money would be given back, as I have not followed the guidlines.

All that said you have done real world testing in normal conditions i.e. nothing changed, and still a lead foot, and proven a fuel saving thus far, a freak one off, we need a few more test mules to give it a go and see the results, but it is at least looking good for V8's.

[The Taipan]

Originally Posted by Cav

I dunno but if an invention can save fuel consumption markedly then we would all be beating a path to his door.
To test such a device you need to do proper testing including control testing, otherwise it merely reflects your attitude to the product. Because you have spent some money, subjectively you want it to work. So you may not open the throttle as much.
In my experience I've found that two things affect fuel consumption: speed and weight.

Not so sure about that, there are a few things that humans (men in particular) are instinctively sceptical of. Gods, fuel saving devices and large breasts on skinny women. Sure many have claimed to be the real true God, many have claimed that product X will save you thousands at the bowser, and many have claimed their breasts are real and suddenly naturally grew overnight, but for some reason few of us take their word. One day the real one true God will return, one day a naturally large breasted woman will walk the earth, and one day one of these devices will save fuel - but how will we ever believe???

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by Dellboy999

All that said you have done real world testing in normal conditions i.e. nothing changed, and still a lead foot, and proven a fuel saving thus far, a freak one off, we need a few more test mules to give it a go and see the results, but it is at least looking good for V8's.

Yes, I agree with you 100%. At the end of it all, if it does show an improvement, which it may not, my finding will be simply it worked for me. That does not mean it will work for everyone and every car, just for me. Maybe a success for me will mean that someone else is willing to give it a go, who knows?
I can already say that if the majority of your driving is done on a cold engine around the corner and back, save your money. It relies on some heat in the injector and if that is not there, no improvement will be found. I see those that do long runs or a lot of stop start traffic with a lot of time with a hot engine getting the best result. My car is probably in between those two extremes somewhere. I am going to be very interested in what the result on the open road will be. My car normally sits on 12L/100km with cruise on at 110-120km/h, I think at the moment it may get into the 10's, sunday will tell!

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by The Taipan

Not so sure about that, there are a few things that humans (men in particular) are instinctively sceptical of. Gods, fuel saving devices and large breasts on skinny women. Sure many have claimed to be the real true God, many have claimed that product X will save you thousands at the bowser, and many have claimed their breasts are real and suddenly naturally grew overnight, but for some reason few of us take their word. One day the real one true God will return, one day a naturally large breasted woman will walk the earth, and one day one of these devices will save fuel - but how will we ever believe???

Or maybe god will send a particularly large breasted woman to pay all ou fuel bills! :hihi:

[EA2BA]

I forget to ask geckoxr8 do you have any before dyno runs / 1/4 mile times etc, and do you plan to do some after the system has been given a good few weeks of running to see if there has been a change at all in these figures.

Originally Posted by geckoxr8

Teach you I will! Yes you do need to depressurise as you get new o rings for the fuel rail (good idea to replace), depressurising is easy, just pull the fuel pump fuse out with the engine running and let it stall. Then it is a case of pull the injectors out, replace the o rings (top and bottom, supplied) and fit the collets. There may be a little plastic rim on the injector that will prevent proper fitting of the collets, just remove this gently, I used side cutters very carefully for this. There is a small rubber band type thing that goes around the top of the collet to hold them together while you place the injector in. Once in place the manifold holds it in place. Fuel rail back on and fuse back in and you are done, easy but fiddly.

how long do these rubber bands last if they stay on the collets? just thinking the next time you go to remove the rail, or someone does and the band isn't holding these together anymore you get 2 or more chucks of metal going into the motor.

I'm not convinced yet, not sure about the ford but my car has a plastic manifold with injectors mounted into that. can't see how it would absorb enough heat from the plastic to vapourise as much as a alloy manifold or head would.

Also the claims that because its is under pressure it doesn't boil and vapourise within the injector. most ppl have experinced heat soak rough start due to vapourisation in the injectors/rail. isn't the rail under the same pressure as the injectors?

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by Dellboy999

I forget to ask geckoxr8 do you have any before dyno runs / 1/4 mile times etc, and do you plan to do some after the system has been given a good few weeks of running to see if there has been a change at all in these figures.

Before is listed in my signature. Trip to the strip will be done in the next couple of weeks after my diff oil has been changed and a bit more run in time. Dyno will be done in a month or so when I get the new exhaust (the before exhaust run). The seat-of-the-pants-meter says there may be a minor improvement, similar to what the underdrives gave me.

[EA2BA]

Originally Posted by geckoxr8

Before is listed in my signature. Trip to the strip will be done in the next couple of weeks after my diff oil has been changed and a bit more run in time. Dyno will be done in a month or so when I get the new exhaust (the before exhaust run). The seat-of-the-pants-meter says there may be a minor improvement, similar to what the underdrives gave me.

Ok cool, so the bum-o-meter feels about the same, this all sounding too positive.

you secretly have shares in this product don't you :

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by vt2vx

how long do these rubber bands last if they stay on the collets? just thinking the next time you go to remove the rail, or someone does and the band isn't holding these together anymore you get 2 or more chucks of metal going into the motor.

I'm not convinced yet, not sure about the ford but my car has a plastic manifold with injectors mounted into that. can't see how it would absorb enough heat from the plastic to vapourise as much as a alloy manifold or head would.

Also the claims that because its is under pressure it doesn't boil and vapourise within the injector. most ppl have experinced heat soak rough start due to vapourisation in the injectors/rail. isn't the rail under the same pressure as the injectors?

I will have a bash at this one because I have already pondered these questions.

1 The rubber bands are the same material that the seals are made of, just thinner. Do the seals melt? I would also suggest that you should use caution removing anything near such a delicate area of the motor. I don't see this as a problem but do admit that one these little creatures dropping into a cylinder would be catastrophic.

2 Yes the ford has alloy because it is a real motor, just kidding! I think you will find the plastic will heat up (all material will heat up eventually), just not at the same rate. What the effect would be? No idea.

3 Apparently it is just the tip that heats, not the fuel rail or fuel lines. It is the fuel lines and rail that cause vapor lock (I imagine there will be no change in the temp in these areas). I have been in stop start traffic with no problems so far but summer will be the test.

[geckoGT]

Originally Posted by Dellboy999

Ok cool, so the bum-o-meter feels about the same, this all sounding too positive.

you secretly have shares in this product don't you :

The way things are going, I wish I did! But I don't want to say it is a success yet and there is no way I will say it works unless I have some concrete proof that it works for me.

Originally Posted by geckoxr8

I will have a bash at this one because I have already pondered these questions.

1 The rubber bands are the same material that the seals are made of, just thinner. Do the seals melt? I would also suggest that you should use caution removing anything near such a delicate area of the motor. I don't see this as a problem but do admit that one these little creatures dropping into a cylinder would be catastrophic.

2 Yes the ford has alloy because it is a real motor, just kidding! I think you will find the plastic will heat up (all material will heat up eventually), just not at the same rate. What the effect would be? No idea.

3 Apparently it is just the tip that heats, not the fuel rail or fuel lines. It is the fuel lines and rail that cause vapor lock (I imagine there will be no change in the temp in these areas). I have been in stop start traffic with no problems so far but summer will be the test.

thanks glad your as skeptical as me. so much stuff around that is a total ripoff. keep up the testing i may change my mind yet