Definitive AU1 to AU2/AU3 brake upgrade thread

[blownv8au]

I don't think he knows what hes talking about. eb sway bar is the same setup as au1.

[Grug1]

Figured as much, thanks for the reply

[superroo]

I do remember talk a few year back (before I wrote this), that it could be done with an eb sway bar because you don't need to drill any holes for mounting the sway bar.
Now, I don't know which mounts were used (au1 vs eb), but I seam to remember "the monty" or "casper" mentioning it some where.

Cheers

[blownv8au]

What about the link bars though? i might have to go and look under my ute again cause i maybe wrong. i thought there was a reason for using the au2 lower control arms? au2 lower control arm has no provision for au1 eb style links only a right angle block for the z style link. i think i remember wondering why au2 lowers were required. I will have a look at this as i may have written off grug1s' wrecker before having a look and just going off memory. sorry mate will look first and answer later from now on.

[superroo]

Well, this is the thread I remember:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=89164

And photo's of a car running a eb sway bar:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=271
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=272
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=273
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=293

Cheers

[Reaper8]

drill the extra holes (its not hard) then you have more sway bar upgrade options available.

[Grug1]

Thanks to all for the clarification

[bunnyr31]

can you just use all ba parts under there like or does it have to be au s2/3 then ba brake calipers and rotors? if you own a xr8 do you have to get series 2/3 xr8 parts? the swaybar mount is that a au part? sorry to threadmine.

[jamess]

I have a further question. I have gone and bought a complete AU 2 setup and also BF XR8 calipers and rotors.

The AU II struts and springs are off a 6 cyl car. Do I use BF struts?

They are going on a AUI TE 50. Do Zi put AU grade springs on BF struts?

[blownv8au]

Just use the struts and springs in you car already.

[ebxr82nv]

Au and b series struts are the same. The only other thing you might need is the caliper brackets to suit the bigger stuff.

[jamess]

Thanks guys.

[webbiegareth]

Has anyone had a mechanic fit the 2nd hand AU2/3 parts to their car? There's no way I could do this myself. I'm pretty sure over time I could find all the parts needed for cheap prices (using Ebay and the for-sale areas on forums like this), but I just can't fit it.

What realistic price would I be looking at (preferably in Melbourne?)

I can't work out if it's really worth the hassle and $$$$'s for installation for the upgrade...

Plus, I think I need 16" rims? At least I read that earlier. We have the stock 15" alloys with our AU1. If we can't use those, then that's even more $$$'s needed to be spent for the ugprade :(

[webbiegareth]

Also, in the meantime... I've heard to just use the standard rotors (not slotted etc), and "softer" pads so they won't chew the rotors as quickly and apparently are better at stopping the car. They don't last as long as regular pads though.

Is this true? And if so, what pads should I be using?

I was tempted to buy the Benxdix Premium pads, as they're basically 1/2 price at supercheap at the moment (buy one set - i.e. fronts - and get another set - i.e. rears - for free). I'm assuming these are harder pads though?

[Mr Hardware]

Hi webbiegareth,

I had an AU1. Worn discs and pads, braking was abysmal. I changed to decent discs and QFM pads - I would probably even say that braking became 'good'.

[robertjp]

i've done this but my brakes were not good, changed the master cylinder (AU3) and kept the AU1 booster, but now the brakes lock solid after several applications and require the master cylinder to be remoived so as to release the pressure. Is there anyone that can help as I am going nowhere excpet to Jolly Rogers and the bank.

[falcon AU S]

Hi robertjb did you manage to find a solution to your problem?
I was thinking of doing what you did but came across your post.

[robertjp]

yeah the brake booster from the AU1 has a longer pushrod length as compared to the AUII. Thus every application of the brakes would prevent the brakes from releasing, fixed by installing the proper booster.

[falcon AU S]

Are your brakes better now with the au2/3 combination of cylinder and booster? How is the pedal travel/feel now?

[robertjp]

heaps better, the feel without changing the master cylinder / booster was down right dangerous. Pedal travel is hard to judge as the booster is working to ease effort, but feel is good and will improve when the pads bed in.

[99AUXR]

Can anyone point me in the right direction. . the sway bar assembly I got didnt look exactly like the ops, Didnt come with the Big brackets to be bolted either side of chasis.

[robertjp]

You need to go to a wrecker and get the brackets, these need to be mounted on the chasis rail via drilling out the holes and getting the appropriate length bolts.

[99AUXR]

All done now just need brake lines, robert so your saying dont upgrade the master cylinder by its self? upgrade the booster and master cylinder, I dont get how the booster would affect brakes being left on. Bigger master cylinder pushes more oil down the lines for bigger brakes so is pretty much a must. However the booster only amplifies the pressure you exert on the pedal to the master cylinder? I know your right as you have felt the issue.

EDIT:Okay so the rod that connects the master cylinder to the booster is slightly longer and doesnt allow the compensating port to be opened.

[robertjp]

Without having a micrometer and really anxious to get the car back on the road the easist method was to install the AU2/3 booster with the appropriate master cylinder. I did not go to a BA series as the master cylinder did not have the pressure switch for the cruise control (but i digress).

I suppose it is feasible to measure the pushrod lengths and adjust the AU 1 booster accordingly, but I didn't check whether the AU2 master cylinder seats further down into the booster recess (which would throw this measurement out).

Hindsight tells me this should have been the path to follow as it would not have necessitated the drilling of some big holes in the dash which I have to repair by getting the proper strengthened steel hanger for the brake pedal etal.

[99AUXR]

So AU2/3 booster need modification to fit correctly?
And BA booster will stuff up cruise control?
How about BF?

What had to be done to fix the issues? ad the BA issue?

[robertjp]

no it's the BA master cylinder that does not have the pressure switch for the cruise control, so the only option was to use one from 2/3 series.

With regards to the booster, the AU2 and all further series (not sure of FG) are a 4 bolt pattern, wheras the AU1 uses a 2 bolt design. I drilled before checking what I was doing. hence the need to fix up the dogs breakfast that is the firewall. Best to go to a wrecker and get a template of the holes needed as well as the steering column, there is also another bump which seems to common to the AU's which is used to help align it all together.

I wish I had know all this as this would have made the installation a lot easier without losing faith and ready to set fire to the ......

[felix4176]

if the donor car is 6cyl and mine is a v8 do i need to find a v8 swaybar or are they the same

[felix4176]

are the pistons in the rear callipers bakerlite like the fronts

[roberts]

Originally Posted by robertjp

yeah the brake booster from the AU1 has a longer pushrod length as compared to the AUII. Thus every application of the brakes would prevent the brakes from releasing, fixed by installing the proper booster.

fitting braided lines means no booster change needed

[mad2]

Hi, very informative - hava a AU3 here so will keep parts for a later swap


just one question re swaybar bolts thru chassis ... does there not need ta be a 'crush tube' ??