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Old 03-10-2006, 11:14 PM   #31
albanycobra
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And can I assume ypu had no engine light troubles?
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Old 03-10-2006, 11:26 PM   #32
EvilChief
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nup

just a full time thermo fan
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do you see a general trend? I DO

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Old 04-10-2006, 04:18 PM   #33
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Bah... im finding it incredibly difficult to source a conversion...

Even more so a vct manual ecu... sooo... anyone hwo knows where there is a vct manual ecu around, ill jump at it!
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Old 04-10-2006, 11:10 PM   #34
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u can reuse auto ecus if u have to ...
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Ford AU XR8 Sedan - 5.4l V8 Turbo (in the build)
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Ford FG XR6T Sedan - cruiser

do you see a general trend? I DO

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Old 04-10-2006, 11:16 PM   #35
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I got an AU II manual ecu forsale??

Also confirmed AU II ecu will not work in AU I.

Ok started car today and found Evil chief was right about the fans staying on.
We have found this is happening cause the ECU thinks the Auto is overheating
cause it cant find the Trans temp sender(located inside A/T), It also is a sign that the trans is in failsafe or limp home mode. We have found the wires for the temp sensor and also the resistance the ECU is looking for so hopefully a 7K resisitor (right in the middle of temp sensor resistance scale) will stop the ECU running the fans at full blast perminantly.

Hopefully the Tailshaft will be ready tomoorrow and we can road test the car.

Other news is if you fit a E series gearbox you wont have to cut your tailshaft
as the box is approx 70mm shorter, but the shifter wont align with the factory hole in the floor. Maybe a dog leg shifter maybe the go?
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:36 AM   #36
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e series wont fit as it will stick out where the stereo sits

oh and e series bw gboxes are weaker than tremec au ones
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do you see a general trend? I DO

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Old 05-10-2006, 09:07 PM   #37
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Ok Guys and Gals
This is what you need to do if you want to convert to manual
1- Cut Auto tailshaft down 60mm
2- If you fit an AU II pedal box to an AU I you will need to redrill the brake
booster holes, other than that everything is the same.
3-Only the the gearstick boot needs to be replaced (not the whole consul)
4- AU II ecu will not work with AU I.
5- Leave the Auto ECU in and keep the inhibitor switch plugged in and set
to park.
6-Cut the reverse switch wires from the inhibitor switch and fit to reverse switch on the manual box
7- Fit a 3.5k resisstor bewteen the Autotrans temp sensor wires (you can do this at the ECU or the trans plug) and your Thermo fans wont run on full blast and will work like normal.

I drove my car today with this conversion and could not tell that the ECU is in
limp home mode, No noticeable torq drop in first and the car actually seemed
faster and far more responsive. This is an excellent mod, now onto fitting
an XR front bar and lights.
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Old 05-10-2006, 10:34 PM   #38
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seems easy enough...i guess the most difficult part is getting the manual box lol
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Old 08-10-2006, 08:32 AM   #39
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albany, is it a vct manual ecu?
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Old 08-10-2006, 08:02 PM   #40
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I'm not sure but assume not. I can get the numbers off the ECU if that
helps.
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:11 PM   #41
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how much did u pick it up for Albanycobra?
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Old 08-10-2006, 11:17 PM   #42
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Pick what up?
The ECU or the whole manual conversion?
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:21 PM   #43
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Default Re: Manual conversion kit

hi there, i converted my series 1 fairmont to one of them tremec t5's just yesterday, i put a series 1 xr8 manual computer into it and it didnt crank as with the inhibitor switch problem, so i activated the starter manualy through the relay plug with ignition on but the car didnt fire, would this be injectors and/or spark cutting out too due to the inhibitor switch missing? i would like to fit the xr8 ecu as i believe it has an extra 10kW in it as the fairmonts were rated at 175kW and the xr8's were 185kW is that correct and also for the clutch switch to work as i have it plugged in, i want the vehicle to be exactly like one come out with a manual bar the thermos, that doesnt worry me too much.

Also my pedal sits ultra high next to the brake, i put in the manual pedal box and pedal but cant figure why it sits so high, could i bend it back and just tension the cable to make up the slack? im worried there wont be enough travel to disengage the clutch, any help would be great. thanks
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:23 PM   #44
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also when decelerating from high revs down to about 2000rpm, theres a horrible vibration going through the car, and can heavily be felt in the brake pedal, i have a brand new harmonic balancer and had the flywheel machined with a brand new HD clutch kit and brand new spigot bearing, thanks again.
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