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18-08-2014, 07:54 PM | #661 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,051
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yeah all good just sharing my experience ;)
my dads BA XT (manual) had the rotors machined three times in 110,000KM and to give you an idea how he drives, he was still on the original pads at that odometer reading.
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18-08-2014, 08:00 PM | #662 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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Maybe it has to do with the brakes and the rotors being exposed as compared to the EL ghia,s having that shielding on them..
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18-08-2014, 08:01 PM | #663 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,051
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i had three EL Ghias, they all had warped brakes with the splash guards still on
my AU had them too, but the wheels are more open on mine so not the same really my FG only had them on the back due to the front rotor size from memory
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18-08-2014, 08:06 PM | #664 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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See here we go again, i have had my el ghia for 2 1/2 years, 280,000 and no problems there at all, and the rwc said the brakes were at 88% when i bought it and still have them on..could it be the weather, like i am in qld???
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18-08-2014, 08:20 PM | #665 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,051
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i think you're just exceedingly lucky - but the rotors may have been changed on on your EL before you bought it
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18-08-2014, 08:25 PM | #666 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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True could have been too..
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18-08-2014, 08:28 PM | #667 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,051
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either way, AUs are great cars so you should have minimal issues - if it has IRS and you have a knock in the rear it may need upper shock mounts, they're notorious in AUs with IRS too
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18-08-2014, 08:31 PM | #668 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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from what i hear they are very good..and i will bear that in mind, get them checked any way..the rwc, didnt come up with that as a problem
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18-08-2014, 09:43 PM | #669 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,051
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Neither did mine but they were dangerously stuffed
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2023 Superb Sportline - Moon Grey 2024 RS 3 Sedan - Mythos Black 2025 Mustang GT - Vapour Blue (on order) |
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25-08-2014, 11:44 AM | #670 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 31
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Hey Guys,
Just wondering if anyone knows a fix for the horn sticking. I have a 2001 AUII XR6. At the moment I have taken the horn fuse out, but when it is in the horn will go off by itself. I did have a dodge alternator at the time, would this have affected it? Thanks in advance.
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24NDR Liquid Silver - 2001 AUII Tickford XR6
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16-10-2014, 06:47 PM | #671 | ||
Guest
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,934
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Minor rust can develop under the rubber on the A pillar next to windscreen. Leaves etc... can fall on to roof, move to the gutter & get stuck on the way down.
Also having just removed my tailights I found a fair amount of hardened crap stuck under the top outer edge of the unit along with more of the same under the unit on the body with a trail between the 2. Also when I repainted my car I removed the mud spats. In doing so I found a whole heap of dried up mud etc...jammed up in the sill behind the spat (behind the plastic sheath on the wheel arch). I left the spats off after repaint so I can regularly Karcher these areas. The vent in the boot (left hand side quart panel behind plastic panel) had let in a whole heap of road dust. With age the rubber flaps in the vent don't seal properly. So I wrapped the unit in some cloth (toweling). I also found some open holes in the boot floor pan. Don't know why or what went through them but I blocked them up with liquid nails & some small squares of plastic. |
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17-10-2014, 10:30 AM | #672 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 9
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Well. I fixed it!
I mean, joining the dots afterwards is so much easier isn't it? You would think that a simple blown top radiator could be just that hey? Patch up and correct* fluid top up, on the side of the road, 10 kilometre easy run into a nearby town, pick up new hose, and coolant, fit it and everything would be good, wouldn't it? * trickle the water in with the motor running. Yes, I have seen some destroyed motors before…. When it got hot, it developed a miss, but the miss was down low and intermittent, and I still had another 700 km before I got home, so I put up with it, and the devastating fuel consumption. No oil in the radiator, no water in the sump, coolant wasn't getting lost, just #3 cylinder not firing and the occasional random miss from #4 & #5 cylinder, so, it could be worse..... And the miss became angry by the time we got home. It would shake the doors at idle sometimes, but still overtake with ease. When I got back, I decided to replace the plug leads because they were old and that would be the obvious thing to do. $62 later,,,,, Still missing. Same cylinders……Running better though. Do a compression check. All good, real good in fact. Get a set of codes out of the computer. $14 is a bargain from Supacheap. Clear the cache and get the current issues. Coil pack. $72 Replace it. Rotten job it is too. Still missing. Same cylinders….. Although it is running even better. Hit the forums. Hmm? Re-check the BIG book…. Ring a friend…… Talk to the dealer…….. Talk to another one…… This could confuse a genius, let alone a guy who has had as many head knocks as me! And the guestimates is more than what the old ute is worth….. They are obsessed with electronics and sensors and I am a bit challenged that way. Stop and think! This Ute ran well in winter, last summer it played up a little, the winter before it was good. The summer before I got it and gave it some TLC, but ran out of time and money concurrently. A service fixed the roughness each time, but it wasn't as smooth as in the cooler months. Heat related maybe? Possibly…. It has always been a bit sluggish and shy of torque quite low in the rev range, but rocketed in the mid and higher rev range when needed. Consumption around town wasn't impressive and on the highway it was reasonable but not exceptional. Others did better. And sometimes it would idle would be a bit high, and sometimes the air con wouldn't blow where needed…… Maybe a intermittent vacumn leak would explain all that…. So I get a pot of water, start her up and start pouring water over vacumn hoses. Nothing under the bonnet anyway. And the ones behind the dash are a no go zone unless I am desperate. So I start @ the inlet manifold gasket. And there you go! Leaking at #3, 4 and 5! New intake manifold gasket. $22. About 2 hours to fit. Made the coil pack look easy! I have a diploma in being poor, and am working on my masters in poverty, but for less than two tanks of fuel, ($172 in total) the old girl is crisp, responsive and leaps at a wriggle of the big toe on the throttle. But it is fixed! |
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18-10-2014, 10:12 AM | #674 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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Nice one Dinoquad!Did it take long to change the inlet manifold gasket?Did you have to take much off?
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18-10-2014, 11:22 AM | #675 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Both the head and inlet faces were very clean and the old gasket fell off in pieces, so I was fortunate. Two hours all up from getting the ramps out to packing them up. Ratchet ring spanners and insensitivity to bleeding knuckles is required. |
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19-10-2014, 12:06 AM | #676 | ||
Guest
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,934
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Been there, done that. A little more seriously though!
The 3 lower rear bolts on the inlet are the worst. Unbolting the coil pack & shoving it towards the shock tower helped clear some space, & ratcheting ring spanners are a blessing. |
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26-10-2014, 05:23 PM | #677 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 35
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Same as you dinoquad.Me au2 started to miss and wobble on take off,idled fine ,ran fine but put into gear it would play up.Changed the usual suspects,plugs,leads.coil,well the local experienced mechanics did.Then they were saying maybe dirty injectors ,maybe fuel reg.I asked did they check the inlet manifold.All good they said. So I rang the ford wreckers to recommend me a good ford mechanic.Anywho new gasket and it runs like new. took 3 mechanics.3 days without car to get something that turned out fairly simple to fix
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29-10-2014, 01:15 PM | #678 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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Fantastic videos FlivverFord.Like you say with the head-bolts having good tools is a big part of the job.Pity they're so expensive.I get my tools from Supercheap which is why I won't tackle anything too big.How many k's had the AU done when you over-hauled the motor?Your lucky you've got a broad-minded Mum for an assistant & doesn't mind you swearing!
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01-11-2014, 12:45 PM | #679 | ||
drive hot Cars just cause
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: South Australa, adelaide
Posts: 70
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just got a NOS genuine ford AU2 manual pedal box.. OMG no wonder they break, im surprised its lasted as long as it has.. all thats holding the clutch pivot point in are two tack welds. got it for a hell good price as mine is beyond repair but im going to have to remove the paint and at least weld the pin properly and probably put a steal plate either side of it to make sure i never have to deal with clutch pedal issues again.. while im there i might tack another bit of steel to the penetration in the firewall although the firewall issue doesnt seem to be so bad in the series 2s like the e series and series 1 au's.
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27-11-2014, 10:16 PM | #680 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1
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I have an au11 with instriment cluster problems, already replaced the cluster once but now this second one has gone down the same path, by what I can make out this is a common problem, how do I remedy this problem.
cheers Arthurtj. |
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29-11-2014, 08:40 PM | #681 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wonthaggi
Posts: 37
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Just rolled over to 440,000 in my AU2, getting old, but goes well.
As per usual, blown another bloody headlight globe, those clips are a bastard to put in with the battery box in the way. Tyres are needing a change, they 1/2 down in 40,000 km or 2 years. does this sound excessive? they are Blue Streak, a generic brand. Definitely getting a shudder in front when over 80 kph, found a tyre weight on driveway fell off, so leaving till replace tyres next few months when finances are better. Do have an option on a 2003 BA, checking tomorrow.
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Potatos have skin. I have skin. Therefore I must be a potato. |
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03-12-2014, 09:49 AM | #682 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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How long have you had the AU2 dopeydazza?I've had my AU3Wagon for over 4 years with same tyres.
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04-12-2014, 08:54 PM | #683 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wonthaggi
Posts: 37
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Had the car for 4 years now, bought it when it was 350,500 in November 2010.
Now it is 440,900 as of today. Bought tyres 2 years ago ah June 2012 or thereabouts. Already had 2 patches as forever running over crap on the roads causing slow leaks, right front and rear left. Had a flat June 2012, bought the 4 new tyres (Blue Streak), 2 days later had another flat from a pothole, so new tyre patched. Not much luck in tyres lately.
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Potatos have skin. I have skin. Therefore I must be a potato. Last edited by dopeydazza; 04-12-2014 at 08:55 PM. Reason: wrong dates |
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05-12-2014, 01:34 PM | #684 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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Wow,that's alot of flat tyres.Years ago vehicles used to get alot of flats but I don't think I've had one for at least 10 years.Bob Jane's seem to do a good deal on tyres & when the Goodyear taranzas need replacing I'll go there.
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29-04-2015, 07:59 PM | #685 | ||
Define definitive
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: hobart, tas
Posts: 587
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Just thought I'd make a list of the things that have gone wrong with my xr6..
Owned it for 5 years in June. Had 110,000 on it now around 175. Albeit some of there are naturally maintenance. New clutch, New clutch cables x2 Leaking speedo o ring Repaired firewall Clutch spring-snapped Radiator-leaking Intake manifold-causing miss Coil pack,leads & plugs-miss again Rusted out exhaust Aerial not working Belt tensioner-worn bearings And over the last month replaced the head gasket. And about to put another radiator as its leaking around plastic tanks again, And finally the alternator died shortly after I got it running after replacing the head gasket.
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20-05-2015, 08:31 AM | #686 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
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Quote:
I've had mine 3 years and 100k and all I've had is that tensioner pulley replaced |
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27-05-2015, 11:18 AM | #687 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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Quoting on myself!But not long after saying that I hadn't had a flat for ages I got one.The rear tyre went down fast at 80kph with a piece of fence-wire(prob.my own off-cut)which lacerated the inside of the tyre like confetti.
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Live and Let Live |
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26-06-2015, 08:55 AM | #688 | ||
nope!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: 5000
Posts: 148
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Got a headlight, high/low beam on the drivers side of my AU XR6 fading.
Is it a sealed beam , or can I just change the globe/s?
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Black Ute and a small brown dog of dubious pedigree |
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26-06-2015, 10:18 AM | #689 | |||
Au Falcon = Mr Reliable
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North West Slopes & Plains NSW
Posts: 4,076
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Quote:
1. From the bulb disconnect the dipped beam terminal by depressing the two locking tabs and withdrawing it from its bulb assembly. 2. Disconnect the positive & negative terminals from the parking bulbs. 3. Remove the sealing cap, then release the bulb retainer. 4. Remove bulb from retainer then replace bulb with one with the same wattage. 5. Install socket, dust cap then reconnect electrical terminals & dipped beam terminal. 6. Check operation of light assembly. Hope this helps, good luck! cheer's, Maka
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Ford AU Series Magazine Scans Here - www.fordforums.com.au/photos/index.php?cat=2792 Proud owner of a optioned keeper S1 Tickford Falcon AU XR6 VCT - "it's actually a better-balanced car than the XR8, goes almost as hard and uses about two-thirds of the fuel" (Drive.com 2007) |
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