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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 28-02-2006, 09:11 PM   #61
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That setup eliminates rear-steer in sedans, so it should be ok in a trailer, don't quote me on it though ;)
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Old 28-02-2006, 09:40 PM   #62
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edxr6t pm sent
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Old 28-02-2006, 09:59 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_EF8
That setup eliminates rear-steer in sedans, so it should be ok in a trailer, don't quote me on it though ;)
quoted!
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Old 28-02-2006, 10:16 PM   #64
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efgiar ill post picks for u 2mrw when its light, the rear isonly the that hasntbeen striped

i dont hav a keyboard atm so On-Screen Keyboard is just doin its job lol
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Old 28-02-2006, 10:17 PM   #65
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so your keyboard AND mouse are trashed

damn!
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Old 28-02-2006, 10:21 PM   #66
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lol thanks jjm
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Old 28-02-2006, 10:23 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADNC_8
so your keyboard AND mouse are trashed

damn!
just keyboard, mousy is still mousin on :p
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:34 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ
Why not do away with the upper links and make a brace from the upper trailing arm mounts down to the lower trailing arms. That would elimenate this steering prob and keep the ability to use SLS suspension on it. You'd probably need to make some stronger arms tho.
SLS on a trailer now you are talking :
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:02 PM   #69
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basicly shes been striped an its just a junk car now, just need to take out the gas tank and some pits an pieces and shes good as yours ;)




just needs a spare tyer for the front


ull be doing us a big favor gettin it out for us
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:06 PM   #70
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Can I suggest getting some lengths of PVC downpipe to put under the trailer to fill with water?

It might increase the weight a bit but you never know when you might need to top 20 radiators up :P
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:08 PM   #71
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why not just fit a water tank in place of the fuel tank......
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:09 PM   #72
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or a keg ;)
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:14 PM   #73
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:15 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADNC_8
why not just fit a water tank in place of the fuel tank......
cool
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:16 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efgiar
so u think that will work karl and jason? and it wont have any problems later down the track?
na mate if its on a normal trailer axle it will be cool
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:18 PM   #76
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i'd rather we didnt pack the trailer full of extra weight just for the hell of it :S
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:20 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADNC_8
why not just fit a water tank in place of the fuel tank......
great idea wayne

i can build water tanks to the same dimentions or less than half the size as the fuel tank and this will give us around 30 ish ltrs per tank

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Old 01-03-2006, 09:33 PM   #78
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jjm, i thaught u said the rear end was complete? oh well, ill have a sit on it and talk to jason about it.
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Old 01-03-2006, 09:41 PM   #79
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what u mean...complete. u expecting it to have lights and stuff?

all the goodies have been taken off, accept diff, no more drivers side door, and interior is completely nakerd

drop me a pm if u wanna take it mate, because dosent go soon it will be taken away
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Old 01-03-2006, 09:44 PM   #80
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thanks pal ill let you kno
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Old 01-03-2006, 09:46 PM   #81
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Hi guys, sounds like you've got some good plans going, great to see. Just though i'd give you a few hints when designing the trailer. I came across a few issues when I built mine.

Note: rego issues applicable to nsw not sure about vic.

- Must have red reflectors at rear (inbuilt in tail lamps are fine) side must have amber reflectors and white ones at the front near the edges of the body.

- Trailer tare weight up to 250kg has cheap rego and never requires a yearly inspection. Mine weighed in at 255kg so my rego was about $130 plus a $20 pink slip inspection each year. To fix the problem I had the trailer weighed with no tailgate which bought it down to 240kg and then paid $30 for the rta weight adjustment now the rego is about $90 a year and no inspection.

- There must be no air gaps between the chassis and the floor of the body, the uteback I used had mounting points at different levels, so I used packers the raise two of them. Rego was knocked back because of this, so I took them out and put them back after it was passed.

- The distance between the centre of the axle to the hitch should be as great as possible, the greater the distance the easier it is to reverse.

- When attached to the tow car the chassis should be close to level, if it nose dives the coupling tends no to move as freely and can make reversing difficult.

- You will need to go to a trailer builder and get them to stamp a VIN plate, which they will give you a VIN number, stamp the make (which will be HMADE) the max gross weight and the rim & tyre size fitted. Mine had it stamped with 14" rims now has 16" oooppps. They will also give you tamper proof studs to fix it to the chassis.

- Oh and I had to take reciepts of parts to a Justice of Peace and sign to say that I own the trailer and have not stolen it.

- Coupling must be bolted to the chassis with high tensile 8.8s bolts (do not weld it on) the saftey chain must be welded to chassis (no bolting)

It sounds like alot but in Nsw this is what I had to do back in 2000, it's probably stricter now. But it was all worth it, I now have a tough unique trailer that gets looks. Good luck!!

Cheers Adrian.
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Old 01-03-2006, 09:57 PM   #82
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i dont think vic are that tight, and jason has all the stuff needed at his work for the rego concerns. its a nice lookin trailer, whats the ute end off? looks like a very proffesional job!
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:02 PM   #83
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looks like a courier tub to me:P
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:03 PM   #84
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Ok cool, it's a 95 rodeo (with a ford badge), best condition tray I could find at the time, but it does take a ford to pull a holden. Built it all myself, fully painted under carriage and carpeted tray. Next thing I need to do is modify the carry bar so it is removable, will look heaps better without it.
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:04 PM   #85
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whats the go with yearly rego in vic?
anyone know price etc?
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:08 PM   #86
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jason said 27-28 bucks a year for rego of a trailer
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:10 PM   #87
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john its roughly 30 a yr per trailer

on another note i have a 3 burner bbq that i will fit to the trailer that i have to build

jason
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:11 PM   #88
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and its full stainless lol
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Old 04-03-2006, 05:00 PM   #89
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Why bother changing the suspension at all from a normal 4 arm and Watts link as it is on a car? Don't you think Ford have any idea about suspensions?

The problem someone mentioned with an XF is probably st*ffed bushes and is no different to an E series with st*ffed bushes.
A trailer type suspension will axle steer more anyway.

If you must have leaf springs use a wagon back end with shocks and its easy to adjust the load carrying with the number of leaves.

My trailer costs $32.90 a year to register

all the regs you need are at
http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/vsb/pdf/vsb_01.pdf

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Old 04-03-2006, 05:17 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Key
Why bother changing the suspension at all from a normal 4 arm and Watts link as it is on a car? Don't you think Ford have any idea about suspensions?

The problem someone mentioned with an XF is probably st*ffed bushes and is no different to an E series with st*ffed bushes.
A trailer type suspension will axle steer more anyway.

If you must have leaf springs use a wagon back end with shocks and its easy to adjust the load carrying with the number of leaves.

My trailer costs $32.90 a year to register

all the regs you need are at
http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/vsb/pdf/vsb_01.pdf

.

That's a rather odd comment to make. Why do we modify our cars at all if Ford know so much about them??

The reason for switching from an unequal length 4-link to a ladderbar setup has already been explained in this thread. Worn bushes don't cause the problem at all.
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