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#61 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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I've used 2 o'rings on leaks.The 1st one a tight fit & a slightly larger one to compress a larger area.
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#62 | ||
Miami Pilot
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
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I did mine today - it was reasonably easy, and even though i didn't have the correct O ring, I had 2 that were almost right - one ID matched but OD was a fraction small, and one OD matched but ID was a fraction large, so I used both with the larger one towards the bolt head. i also used some high temp silicon on the threads so it should stop the leak. For the record, the old o ring was brittle, and had a crack in it.
I degreased and high pressure washed the side and front of the motor, and thoroughly cleaned the alternator too, so hopefully it should breeze through rego once I take it over the pits to transfer it to my name. All up, this took around 1 hour.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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#63 | ||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sydney, in the burbs
Posts: 4,908
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Nothing like owning an AU
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Plastic Surgery 1 AUII Monsoon Blue How 2's: Change rear view mirror, Install backfire valve, Change foam front seats, Install auto transmission cooler, Replace Trans Shift Globe, Remove front door Trim, Paint AU headlights, install door spears, Premium Rear Parcel Shelf, go here...
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#64 | |||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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Quote:
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#65 | |||
Miami Pilot
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
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Quote:
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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#66 | |||
Donating Member
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Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,570
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Quote:
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#67 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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I had to clean up the Mitsubishi alternator after fixing the leaking brake pipe connector above it.But there hasn't been any alternator trouble.Is the starter motor also a Mitsubishi product?
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#68 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 111
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If youve done inlet manifold gasket. the rear bottom is a bugger to do up fully, and the gasket can shrink over the next few days / weeks depending on use, so go over them again in a week, and 2 weeks etc. as the fibre gasket shrinks before being settled, a bugger really you go out 2 weeks later and the bolts are loose. lol p.s. you probably should have done a few things while the manifold was off, hahahaa save you trouble later. ie everything under the manifold
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#69 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 111
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the large thread on the timing chain tensioner leaks, ive done a few. pretty simple job just clean and goo the thread but let it cure properly before running. All pretty simple, just do the thread up by the to small holes, with a hammer and a screwdriver, doesnt have to be overly tight, just let the goo set, and make sure tensioner is in properly locked position, ive pulled mine out to many times to count, or the actual timing chain cover gasket can go as mine did, so just cleaned dried, gooed the **** out of it let it cure properly, no problems since.
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#70 | |||
Yep ... BOOSTED
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mid North Coast NSW
Posts: 187
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Quote:
Ended up finding the leak, it was the long bolt that holds the power steer pump to the engine. (Must go into an oil capillary or something). Fix ... some plumbers tape around the thread and added some gorilla snot to the top of the thread as I inserted it while I tightened it back up. Thanks again guys.
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Daily Driver - 2000 - AU2
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#71 | ||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sydney, in the burbs
Posts: 4,908
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Good threads never die.
UK
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Plastic Surgery 1 AUII Monsoon Blue How 2's: Change rear view mirror, Install backfire valve, Change foam front seats, Install auto transmission cooler, Replace Trans Shift Globe, Remove front door Trim, Paint AU headlights, install door spears, Premium Rear Parcel Shelf, go here...
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#72 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 1
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk |
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#73 | ||
Au Falcon = Mr Reliable
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North West Slopes & Plains NSW
Posts: 4,076
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Sorry about the thread mine but good threads like this one do go on & on, hey UK!
I just had the timing chain tensioner leak on my xr6 engine, using this thread helped me heaps in fixing the leak. Thanks to all who contributed their time & info to this very helpful thread. ![]() At first i thought it was leaking from somewhere else so tightened & cleaned everything up took my kids to school yesterday then checked & you guessed it a little stream of Castrol Edge on the engine crossmember again! ![]() In the end, mine was only a loose timing chain tensioner mechanism which i unscrewed out a bit & applied some gasket goo then i tightened it back up securely (thanks for the tip UK). I also applied some goo to the last long bolt under the vct pulley on the last bracket to come off just in case it leaked there too. Left it overnight then today took my xr6 for a drive & the leak is no more for good i hope. I think the mechanism was loose only for a little while, so hopefully no brittle o rings fingers crossed. Hope thats the end of that, now to clean up my garage floor oil stains.. ![]() cheers, Maka
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Ford AU Series Magazine Scans Here - www.fordforums.com.au/photos/index.php?cat=2792 Proud owner of a optioned keeper S1 Tickford Falcon AU XR6 VCT - "it's actually a better-balanced car than the XR8, goes almost as hard and uses about two-thirds of the fuel" (Drive.com 2007) Last edited by Maka; 28-07-2018 at 06:48 PM. |
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#74 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
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I have oil coming out of the bottom long bolt that holds the power steering bracket on as well.
Have tried sealant and also teflon tape, but still seeps out from behind the bottom of the bolt. Most annoying leak ever... Does anyone have any more tips for fixing this, as it's driving me crazy! |
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#75 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 13
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Replaced seals on tensioner on my au and still leaked. Plenty of sealant on long bolt stopped the leak. Make sure the sealant you used is oil resistant. Not sure what I used, just that it was black or grey in color.
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#76 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
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Thanks Fillmore. I used the grey sealant and it’s worked a treat. 👍 Now onto the leaks on other parts of the motor. 🙄
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#77 | ||
XR6T BA 2002
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 681
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Took me about 4 goes on the ltd vct
used this and it finally stopped https://www.permatex.com/products/th...hread-sealant/ use on the long and short bolt and the 3 bolts for the tensioner on threads only anything past the thread use this https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...asket-maker-4/
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XR6T 2002 BA
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#78 | |||
XR6T BA 2002
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Failed again Gonna go for the grey sealant
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XR6T 2002 BA
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#79 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,216
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After doing my AU 4.0L and making some of the tools to do this here are some photos to show what some of it looks like. The link is to a very good video of the tensioner and task in question. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h332SlvFvY0
Cheers Bill ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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AUII XR6 VCT ute 20 years and still going strong! Last edited by Bill M; 30-10-2019 at 11:23 AM. |
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#80 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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Brilliant pics Bill.I'll know what to do if I need to tighten the timing-chain.What are the symptoms?
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#82 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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About 5 or 6 years ago I did the timing chain bolt leak with o-rings & same with speedo,power-steering pipes & valve,temp.sensor & others & haven't had any leaks that I'm going to worry about.I'd like to thank the Ford Forum & it's contributors for the advice that I've gleamed.I got a motorbike about 2 years ago & it's sort of taken over.Happy New Year to all Fordies!
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#83 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,867
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A question for anyone who knows the factory manual cover-to-cover.
In what section is the steering pump bracket discussed explicitly? Asking because this would be where the factory method for sealing the “long bolt” would be exposed. I’m leaning towards using Stag paste but prep is obviously going to be my “devil in the detail”. |
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#84 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,867
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#85 | |||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 22,941
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Quote:
Although with the water pump in Section 11-2-1 they say to coat all the pump threads with sealant ESZ-M4G281-A
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regards Blue |
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#86 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 22,941
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As I have mentioned few times in the past (e.g https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11423195) I used to use a cheap cube brake piston tool rather than a pin wrench as it takes a 3/8" square drive that means you can tighten it to the specified torque. One of these:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Vehi...YAAOSwWORbmHa1
![]() Costs a bit more at Supercheap though https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...be/580350.html But I picked up one of these cheap at an auction a few years ago so I no longer have to make do: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toledo-T...sAAOSw5k1cbx~Q and https://tridon.com.au/products/Toled.../422143/304707 ![]()
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 10-03-2020 at 04:44 PM. |
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#87 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,867
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I’ve got the genuine Ford pin tool for installation, just not the “through” pin tool for removal.
Never had a brake cube, when starting out I bought the full monty wind-back kit with left and right threaded centres. |
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#88 | |||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 22,941
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Quote:
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 10-03-2020 at 05:02 PM. |
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#89 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,867
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Since the question comes up often and I am yet to see a concise answer that doesn’t involve Ford part numbers:
Tensioner assembly o-ring sizes for the AU, numbered per BS1806, a parallel industry standard. I suggest buying them in Viton or HNBR, not regular NBR. 013 filter basket, buy two 017 retainer nose, buy one 109 plug midlength seal, buy one 118 tensioner flange, buy one |
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#90 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,216
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I bought all my O rings from Renseal in Dandenong Melbourne. I took the old O rings and some associated parts and they matched them in a higher spec material than the OE ones. I did the lot as I detest doing jobs twice.
https://www.renseal.com.au/seals-and-o-rings
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AUII XR6 VCT ute 20 years and still going strong! |
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