Mondeo 2011 Turbo Diesel lack of power

[aussiblue]

Worth doing both a leakdown test and boost leak test:

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJ0yMKn-lQE and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jyj3nQOxAJY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADwkerSX7Ow and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCShoS0XkPM etc

[JustBill]

Did the ford Mondeo change its Diesel engine at anytime between 2011 model and 2013?

I got a replacement engine for my 2011 MC
But there are a few differences 1 is, the fuel filter on this replacement engine is on the engine itself, while the fuel filter on my 2011 mondeo is at the back where the fuel tank is.

Why i ask is i F....d up again. This replacement engine doesnt suit my car according to the mechanic.

The wreckers advertised the engine as 2012 where in fact the engine came from a 2013 according to the PPSR check.

[aussiblue]

The Mark V MD came out in 2013 see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_M...rth_generation). But wasn't generally available until April 2015. There was a also facelift of the MC in June 2011 Building in the “MB MY11” update that occurred in May 2010 and which saw the arrival of an upgraded 120kW/340Nm 2.0-litre Duratorq TDCi see https://www.goauto.com.au/used-car-r...7-01/5208.html

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

The Mark V MD came out in 2013 see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_M...rth_generation).

So seems like the company who sold me the engine, misinformed me when advertising a 2012 engine, where in fact its a 2013 MD engine.

[aussiblue]

See my edits/revsions of my last post.

So seems like the company who sold me the engine, misinformed me when advertising a 2012 engine, where in fact its a 2013 MD engine.
JustBill is online now Report Post Reply With Quote

More likely they sold you one from the MB MY11 with the upgraded 120kW/340Nm 2.0-litre Duratorq TDCi while your car is probably the MY10 pre June prior model. See https://www.goauto.com.au/used-car-r...7-01/5208.html and https://www.goauto.com.au/used-car-r...8-01/3027.html for the admittedly confusing history of the MC model. What's the VIN numbers and manufacturing date and country on your Compliance Plate? Just to confuse things more there likely might also have been a few grey imports of UK vehicles bought in by UK migrants bringing their UK purchased Mondeo with them.

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

See my edits/revsions of my last post.





More likely they sold you one from the MB MY11 with the upgraded 120kW/340Nm 2.0-litre Duratorq TDCi while your car is probably the MY10 pre June prior model. See https://www.goauto.com.au/used-car-r...7-01/5208.html and https://www.goauto.com.au/used-car-r...8-01/3027.html for the admittedly confusing history of the MC model. What's the VIN numbers and manufacturing date and country on your Compliance Plate? Just to confuse things more there likely might also have been a few grey imports of UK vehicles bought in by UK migrants bringing their UK purchased Mondeo with the,.

Thanks for your time aussieblue

My vin is WFOGXXGBBGBE03296

The replacement Engine vin is WFOEXXGBBECS80886

[aussiblue]

Put them into this page noting the 3rd Character in the VIN is a Zero not a "O".

https://www.fordserviceinfo.com/ownerinformation

Or better here: https://www.ford.co.uk/support

2011 Mondeo (2007)

2013 Mondeo (2007)

So you are trying to get a 2013 (likely an MD) engine into a 2011 MC car. So you may be right with the

So seems like the company who sold me the engine, misinformed me when advertising a 2012 engine, where in fact its a 2013 MD engine.

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Put them into this page:

https://www.fordserviceinfo.com/ownerinformation

Or better here: https://www.ford.co.uk/support/vehicle/vin/

Thanks mate

But i'm getting a "Server Error in '/' Application."

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Put them into this page noting the 3rd Character in the VIN is a Zero not a "O".

https://www.fordserviceinfo.com/ownerinformation

Or better here: https://www.ford.co.uk/support

2011 Mondeo (2007)

2013 Mondeo (2007)

So you are trying to get a 2013 (likely an MD) engine into a 2011 MC car. So you may be right with the

ok got it now. Thanks for the heads up the 0 is zero not the letter "O"

Thats right, looks like i'm trying to get a 2013 mondeo engine into my 2011 MC.

But they advertised it as 2012 Mondeo engine. Would a 2012 mondeo be the same as a 2011? why i ask is if it's their fault going by the year they advertised (2012 when in reality its a 2013), then they can't refuse to exchange it and free delivery of a correct engine.

[aussiblue]

Yes the OZ site seems to be down at the moment.That's why I posted the second link https://www.ford.co.uk/support just enter the VIN after the magnifying glass.

's there fault going by the year they advertised, then they can't refuse to exchange it and free delivery of a correct engine.

Agreed. Consumer Protection in your state will look after if need be but I wouldn't give the dealer too much of a hard time as it was likely an honest mistake as:

a) Mondeos are not the best know of models in terms of Oz mechanics and dealers (even Ford Dealers) familiarity (the were never big sellers in OZ see https://www.redbook.com.au/editorial...010-14-108507/) ; and
b) As you have found already I think, the model designations, variations and linage of Mondeos in Australia is confusing at best.

[aussiblue]

I have to ask is it a green car bought on the 13th of the month per https://www.snopes.com/list/bad-luck-superstitions/

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

I have to ask is it a green car bought on the 13th of the month per https://www.snopes.com/list/bad-luck-superstitions/

lol

But i cover the rest on that list and more.
Seriously, i don't know what ive done to deserve this. All i did was to help my son out. I had nothing but good intention. I pray every day, i m a carer for my wife and my mum, i volunteer where i can, i wouldn't harm anything or anyone. Why all this bad luck..... i'm struggling to figure out.

[aussiblue]

A tip for next time, pay $5 when car buying and get a brutally objective review report from the Dog & Lemon Guide https://dogandlemon.com/ . Download and read the free sample Land Rover Freelander review to see how brutal. I think you would also still find the Mondeo report useful and worth the $5 (or better spend $10 and get a review report on your own car(s) too) as it also advises on things that commonly fail and what other issues might arise in future and, in some cases, how to avoid or fix these issues; just don't trade the Mondeo in on a Feelander. Be warned very few cars get a totally positive report at Dog & Lemon.

I hope it works out in the end for you; nobody deserves all that stress.

[AlanM]

Originally Posted by JustBill

Did the ford Mondeo change its Diesel engine at anytime between 2011 model and 2013?

I got a replacement engine for my 2011 MC
But there are a few differences 1 is, the fuel filter on this replacement engine is on the engine itself, while the fuel filter on my 2011 mondeo is at the back where the fuel tank is.

Why i ask is i F....d up again. This replacement engine doesnt suit my car according to the mechanic.


The wreckers advertised the engine as 2012 where in fact the engine came from a 2013 according to the PPSR check.

Yeah there was a mild update between 2011 and 2013. The main visible difference is as you noted, the fuel filter is mounted on the engine. There are different EGR and PCV hoses too.

The MD engine is a much bigger update. It's easy to see the difference, it has an aluminium intake manifold instead of plastic, and a plastic sump instead of metal.

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by AlanM

Yeah there was a mild update between 2011 and 2013. The main visible difference is as you noted, the fuel filter is mounted on the engine. There are different EGR and PCV hoses too.

The MD engine is a much bigger update. It's easy to see the difference, it has an aluminium intake manifold instead of plastic, and a plastic sump instead of metal.

Just did a search on the link aussieblue gave me using the vin on this 2013 engine. It definitely came up as a MC just like my car. But like you said, the fuel filter, different egr hose and the mechanic needed to change the bracket that all the pullys are attached to that the fan belt winds through including the power steering pump attaches to.... but the holes on that bracket doesnt exactly line up. I can imagine the other trouble i will have when it comes to the computer recognizing this 2013 engine.

[Citroënbender]

Do the injectors have the same basic part number? If so, they can be coded in easily. Assuming you’re swapping over sensors and the complete turbo/wastegate it shouldn’t be a worry.

[aussiblue]

Does anyone have the info to decode the exact engine type from the VIN or Compliance plate as I guess it's also possible there was more than one 2.0 TDCI engine used in the Mondeo models sold in Oz in 2011?

[NZ XR6]

I bought a runout MB in 2011 which had the Euro 4 engine and 6-speed auto. But I understand some of the last MB's had the Euro 5 engine and DSG box, and I wasn't sure which I was getting until the car was delivered to the dealer.

I understand the position of the fuel filter indicates whether it's Euro 4 or 5. The DPF is different also.



Sent from my SM-S906E using Tapatalk

[JustBill]

SHE'S ALIIIIIIVE


What am i going to do with myself now. I might start fiddling with the timing belt for old time sake.

[Citroënbender]

That’s excellent.

[Citroënbender]

One left-field question, can you be certain no petrol was added to the tank in error? Maybe decant a sample of fuel from the tank side of the high pressure pump and sniff it?

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

One left-field question, can you be certain no petrol was added to the tank in error? Maybe decant a sample of fuel from the tank side of the high pressure pump and sniff it?

I was certain. I just had enough of the original engine and thought enough money and time spending on it. So picked up a 2013 model engine with 120,000km on it for $890 and paid $1000 labor to remove mine and put this other one in. The mechanic came to my place and did the change in front of my house and took him 12 hours over 2 afternoons.

Many scratched their heads and said to me the car is not worth spending $2000 on it (purchase, rwc, reg, transfer, repairs). But i looked at it this way. If i scrapped it, i lose the $6000 i spent on it. Then i would have to spend another $7000 for another car and god knows what i would bring home with that $7000. So option is $2000 to have a car or $7000? No brainer imo, spending $2000 and save $5000.

[simon varley]

congratulations. FWIW I think you made the right choice to stick with it. They are a great car, when they are working well.

[aussiblue]

They are a great car, when they are working well.

Yes agreed but still do the following as I suggested as their reports lists a number common problems with the Diesel Mondeo Engine and how to prevent, diagnose and/or fix them most of them.

get a brutally objective review report from the Dog & Lemon Guide https://dogandlemon.com/ . Download and read the free sample Land Rover Freelander review to see how brutal. I think you would also still find the Mondeo report useful and worth the $5 (or better spend $10 and get a review report on your own car(s) too) as it also advises on things that commonly fail and what other issues might arise in future and, in some cases, how to avoid or fix these issues; just don't trade the Mondeo in on a Freelander. Be warned very few cars get a totally positive report at Dog & Lemon.

[JustBill]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Yes agreed but still do the following as I suggested as their reports lists a number common problems with the Diesel Mondeo Engine and how to prevent, diagnose and/or fix them most of them.

This will be handy for me in future. As for others.... just ask me what car would i buy. Then do the opposite. I tend to buy lemons it's like a skill i have.

First i bought a Ford Explorer. after an issue the mechanic goes "Oh a Ford Exploder"

Then i bought a Holden Captiva. Take it to a mechanic and he goes "Oh a Holden Craptiva"

Now i have this Mondeo. Watching one of Alan Howatt's videos where he goes "Oh Ford Potato just can't win.

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by JustBill

This will be handy for me in future. As for others.... just ask me what car would i buy. Then do the opposite. I tend to buy lemons it's like a skill i have.

First i bought a Ford Explorer. after an issue the mechanic goes "Oh a Ford Exploder"

Then i bought a Holden Captiva. Take it to a mechanic and he goes "Oh a Holden Craptiva"

Now i have this Mondeo. Watching one of Alan Howatt's videos where he goes "Oh Ford Potato just can't win.

You're on the downward slope now, you had peak lemon right there

Good news she's back on the road,

[aussiblue]

Now i have this Mondeo. Watching one of Alan Howatt's videos where he goes "Oh Ford Potato just can't win.

a.k.a. "Lemondeo"

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

a.k.a. "Lemondeo"

Mondildo

[JustBill]

I started this doing cartwheels to early. This replacement engine isn't running quite as smoothly as it should. Got the injectors tested (i just had a DÉJÀ VU, anyone else?) And one of the injectors was stuffed. So clearly it was missfiring on one of the cylinders. The injector guy blamed it on my mechanic not bleeding them when putting them in or disconnecting the fuel lines. Even new ones need this done or else these new ones will F up aswell. I wish i knew about bleeding them the last time the car wouldn't start with the original motor. I bet that was the problem with the old motor, and here i am with an unnecessary replacement motor. And $2000 poorer.

Now i really need to concentrate and not repeat the mistake. Citroenbender.... Or anyone else that know the answer with certainty, Please what is the correct way of bleeding injectors the instructions given on the web are as follows, and can anyone confirm it.

DELPHI INJECTOR BLEEDING PROCEDURE

1. Fit injectors to vehicle, observing all cleanliness and torque setting requirements.
2. Fit new HP pipes and torque as per the vehicle specification.
3. Connect a scan tool and monitor the fuel rail pressures.
4. Disconnect the metering unit (suction control valve) on the HP pump.
Caution: This will make the pump go into full fuel mode. DO NOT START THE VEHICLE with the metering unit disconnected.
5. Leave all injector electrical plugs DISCONNECTED.
6. Crank the engine for 7 seconds.
7. Wait for 10 seconds to prevent overheating of components.
8. Crank engine for a further 7 Seconds.
9. Check and make sure that the correct rail pressure has been achieved.
10. Connect the injector drive cables and the HP pump cables.
11. Crank to start the engine.


The injector service guy tells me a little different and i don't know which to follow. What he differs from the above, is A) disconnect the fuel rail pressure sensor, checking rail pressure not necessary. B) Crank the engine over for 1 minute and 50 seconds (not just 7 seconds) and do this procedure 4 time. In-between the cranking, loosen the HP Pipes around 2 turns to release the air then tighten before the next crank. Starting from injector 1. Thats almost 8 minutes of cranking in total before the crank to start step. I'm a little dubious, i don't think my battery or any battery would last 8 minutes of cranking.

This is hugely important now, i hope and pray someone can advise.

[goz007]

This is just my opinion with no technical backing, although it is an educated opinion(HD Diesel filter 25+ years) 1/ if u truly believe what these so called mechanics are telling you...(I don't) Then follow the manufacturers recommendations....2/the comon rail fuel system runs extremely high pressure & under no circumstances if uve been cranking that engine release a fuel line as it has the potential to kill u or cut limbs off.(If u need to open up the common rail fuel system on the H.P side I would wait at least 45mins to make sure fuel pressure has disapated).....now for my opinion here, the injectors don't need bleeding the common rail system will self bleed & then the engine will start, it's not like an old mechanical injection engine were some times u would have to crack fuel lines to get them to bleed & fire.... causing the injectors damage as there is air in the system makes no sense to me as there would still be some fuel there for lubricating, if there's any air the engine simply won't start....if u are that worried I'd simply just unplug the harness from the injectors, but also this makes no sense as the injectors can't operate so u still have what ever small amounts of air inside them that can't get out, so your still in the same situation(I guess the only thing it does is makes sure the H.P is delivering full pressure to the rail) but in all reality that's just splitting hairs.....the reason Delphi say this smoke & mirror bleeding hogwash is they are known to have crap injectors & obviously some Delphi engineer has come up with this to cover themselves(I've had those crap Delphi injectors in a few cars & a few I've managed to get to come good by giving them some little tapping/hitting with a little baby hammer on the top & theyve come good & the miss fire gone)....didn't your old engine have a set of reco or new injectors? If so why can't these be used? Also if your injector guy(I'm assuming it's the same guy u got the first engines injectors off) I'd just take the car to him & pay him to fit & bleed them....then warranty is on him- or find anthor diesel injection shop & ask more questions or have them do there own assessment of your injectors (new & old ones)....the other question I ask is why the injectors don't need bleeding when u replace a fuel filter or instances were a car has run out of diesel or were a fuel system drain & refill is required after a shandy(mix or diesel & petrol)....mmmm because u activate the ignition the L.P cycles(some times a few cycles)to prime then filter & crank engine ,engine cranks ,common rail system self bleeds & engine starts..... anyway as I said this is purely just my opinion so take it as u want.