WQ Fiesta Options not available in Oz

[Luke Plaizier]

And this is what I am hoping to do:



Except with a pump with a separate header tank from a XR5 Focus or TE Kuga:



Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

Progress on the 3D printing prototyping of actuator and blower controller mounts that can be retrofitted to the standard heater box with as few modifcations as possible. It consists of:

1. Top Right: The Outlet Register Actuator Mount (Face/Feet/Demist). This one took 8 iterations but it fits well now.
2. Top Left: The Temperature Blend Door Actuator - I've only just started on that one, but it already fits pretty close and just needs fine tuning now.
3. Bottom: The Blower Motor Controller that needs to fit in the spot where the standard Blower resistor normally goes.

The two actuators don't need any modifications to the Heater Box itself. They could in fact just be glued in place, but I am putting small holes in places I know that there will be no interference in the box so that screws can be used.

The Blower Controller will need a big hole cut out of the box for this to work. I am doing my full due dilligence to test everything clears before I start to make any cuts, but the location in the image I think will work. On the factory auto climate box the controller is actually fitted quite a bit further to the left in the image, necessitating quite a large bit of extra moulding beyond the current sides of the box. In fact, the two actuators are not quite in the same place as the factory actuator locations either, but I feel resonably confident that I can make these locations work through the calibration settings in the EATC module.




Lukeyson

[Aaron]

I have envy and want for climate control.

Anyway - did someone say “Park Pilot”?

[Aaron]

In Forscan GEM programming there’s an option to enable instantaneous fuel consumption on the dash display.

I can report it works.

[Luke Plaizier]

That looks like an aftermarket or dealer fit kit right? The sensors don't look like the genuine ones - do they?


Luke

[Aaron]

It’s a clone of the Park Pilot and that’s a Kuga kit but functionally same same

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Kug....m46890.l49286

I’m sort of keen but sort of satisfied with having the functional camera.

[Luke Plaizier]

In Europe there's a high-body 4 Door Wagon version of the Mk6 Fiesta called the Fusion. The early 2001 to 2005 model had some extra ducting that fed air from the heater box to the foot well of the rear passengers. In fact, there seem to be places in Europe that sell these after market to add them to the later Fusion. Ford FINIS part numbers for the centre are 1207466 for RHD models - 1207464 for LHD models - the tubing is different around the auto shift lever - then 1207474 and 1207475 for the left and right floor tubing. I am open to the possibility that these may fit the Fiesta. The parts may be difficult to get, but they look decidedly 3D printable to me....





Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

There's a write-up on a Russian website called FusionGuru that shows you how to install them.

https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fusionguru.ru%2Farticles %2Findex.php%3Fdir%3D%252Farticles%252Fsalon%252FO bogrev_nog_zadnih_passazhirov.htm%26fbclid%3DIwAR0 0X8wDzU_CKaw_CzsEgBS8YqNqE9cxlzPuJdkrMO58ddpcOOdE4 skhYjQ&h=AT04pAjkt4JgrYCYpUJQ4_ZYP7uguEQRlq1ePB2oq xb8mUDKf4K93MrVG7ZewENC3lmS65TtrznH1UGt_JA0nU3L7zD 0Sql9Vtv2qEs69yr3YJCSH3W9-plkq_fjWpC5Ug&__tn__=R]-R&c[0]=AT3l8y1tvjpTX4pJMa4hBSHJ7_NqM5Mwbh8g2TlDVt5l51-rt9AuVbZBfPPO_gHU6spFWlgixJ79UKXhi6cb6XxGPE6fTIjTU-KW-ct79SKoI-exj5HESsdAjC1o_k81pWQay2GeBv8AQaqsUjQocp3lOI6tF1_A CgeCIjbe3DVcOqcA_-4szyqD4cJ36KAoaPNzHJPtR3E0w_s3hg


Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

And there's also a guy in Russian that 3D prints them. $100 shipped to Australia if you are interested.

If you scroll down to the comments section, you can see I asked a question - he responded with a private message. I am not sure how to actually get him the money though...

https://www.drive2.ru/l/555952937373...-tpcQFu8QB14Fg


Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

We know that the Mk2 Focus (LS Focus in Australia) has the same scalp as the WQ XR4. But the LS Focus has a few options that the Fiesta never came with - namely indicator lamps and puddle lights. Good to know, but otherwise too hard to do to the Fiesta - right? There is no cut-out in the Fiesta mirror to fit the indicator lense, and there's no allowance for the puddle lamp.

Well, I went and purchased a set of aftermarket Powerfold mirrors - there are actually a dozen or so makers of them in Europe, and while still a bit expensive for shipping, they are easily available. I mainly just wanted the Powerfold feature. As I continue to collect parts for my build, these powerfold mirrors had been sitting aside for awhile waiting. But based on the experience of an acquaintance on facebook, I opened them up the other day and was pleasantly surprised.
(1) The cut-out for the indicator lense is actually there! So they must be using the whole shell from the Mk2 Focus on the Fiesta Door-Moulding.
(2) the outline of the puddle lamp is actually built into the shell as well! It might be an easy matter of pressing it out, but cutting carefully along the line might render a good enough result, since it is out if the way under the mirror itself and not easily visible.

The big question is the connectors - the Fiesta connectors are 8 pin, and with the mirror motors, heater and powerfold that leaves only one pin spare. But no fear, I found the connector part numbers, so it is possible to de-pin the 8-pin male/female connector and put them in equivalent 10 pin shells, and add another wire for the puddle lamp. What I don't have yet are the connector/pin types for the A-Pillar.

The Focus mirror. The connector can already be seen to be 10 pins.



Indicator Lense:


Puddle Lamp Lense:


The aftermarket powerfold mirrors test fitted to the project 3-Door shell, showing the cutout for the indicator lense:



Looking up from underneath the powerfold mirrors, showing the outline for the puddle lamp:



Lukeyson

[Aaron]

And on AliExpress there are numerous LED assemblies for both those positions.

AU $6.63 50％ Off | 2Pcs Canbus Car LED Under Side Mirror Puddle Lights Lamp No Error Super Bright For Ford Focus 3 Kuga C-Max Escape Mondeo

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOpyFHx

For example of the puddle lights.

[Luke Plaizier]

The 8 pin connectors for the Fiesta Mirror uses Molex shells from the 30700 series. It is possible to get a 10 pin male/female connector from the same series, that way you can depin the current connectors and re-insert them into the 10 pin shells, and have pins spare for the extra lights in the mirror. These connectors all come with a number of 'keyed' options - small slots or cuts that make the connectors unique, with part numbers in sequence, 1081, 1082, 1101, 1102 etc. This 10 pin connector for example is also used on the back of the climate control dials, but with a different key pattern.

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0307001080

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0309681080

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0307001100

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0309681100

These connectors can generally be found at places like au.mouser.com or element14. If you are adding pins, you may need to determine the wire gauge you want to use and the molex site can help get you find a part number there too. I'd guess that 18 or 20 gauge is used.


Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

I'd say these pins would be required for the extra lines in the connectors:

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0330000002

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0330122002

Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

I might need a bit of help locating the pins that would fit in the A Pillar connector door and chassis side.

The connector from the door loom has 'Tyco 1452854' written on it and has 22 pins. Tyco has since become TE Connectivity. I've had a good look through the TE Connectivity website through all their automotive and non automotive and circular connectors without luck. My only option may be to try and get some choped off existing looms and acquire male and female pins that way.

There are 3 x free pins in our XR4 looms for the double-locking lines on pins 12, and the alarm set/reset switch on pins 13 and 14. I was actually thinking about getting the factory alarm working in my project XR4 via acquiring a D level GEM, the overhead lights with the sensors, the alarm speaker and the bonnet/boot sensor but more research is required there yet.




Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

Today's rant - Factory Car Alarm.

There was a spec of Mk6 Fiesta released that had some additional features - including a factory car alarm and deadlocking doors. The deadlock feature I'm not too fussed about, but the Alarm feature interests me. So, as we do, I started rummaging through the wiring diagrams and feature descriptions in the Workshop manual to try an understand what it does. And this is what i found.

(1) The GEM. There are 4 models of GEM according to the Workshop Manual, and each type of GEM supports certain features. The models are basially A, B, C and D. Pretty much all XR4's and the 1.6's sold in Australia come with the C GEM - which means all features bar the Alarm and Deadlock doors are available. And yes, this includes Powerfold Mirrors, Auto Lights and Auto Wipers. A and B are for lower poverty spec models sold in the Uk and Europe, I've never seen one of those here (yet). But the D model is basically a C with the addition of the two features in question. We know that every feature in the GEM can be reprogrammed - so you can get an D GEM from any Fiesta or Fusion, LHD or RHD, 3 Door, 5 Door, Van, UAV, Diesel, Petrol Whatever - and you can just reprogram that GEM for your 3 Door RHD Petrol Australian XR4 using Forscan. many of the Ford Fusions made up until 2012 have the D GEM and were sold in Europe, so I've seen a lot of them on ebay uk and ie. The Part number is 4S6T 15K600-DB (or D anything actually). be warned - the sticker on EVERY GEM says 'Control Assembly Remote Control Lock & Alarm' but ONLY the one's ending in D? actually have the Alarm.

(2) The drivers door lock - is a different part number. The Alarm can the set or reset when the drivers door lock is turned by the key. There are 3 extra wires use by the drivers door lock - pins 12, 13 and 14 in the A-Pillar connector, which are otherwise free - Alarm SET, Alarm RESET and DEADLOCK. Given that the alarm can also be activated by the Remote Control, I don't consider this to be an important feature. Drivers Door Lock has FINIS part 1372463 for RH, and 1372470 for LH

(3) Bonnet Latch - also has a different part number. There's a sensor in the Alarm models - plus an extra loom (Part 6S6T-971113-AB) would connect to an extral connector on the Body Loom - that connects to the GEM and detects when the Bonnet is opened. The Part for the latch with alarm is FINIS 1478992.

(4) 2nd tailgate switch - called the ATI Switch, for Alarm Tailgate Inhibit.I think it is an add-on part for the tailgate lock, and changes state when the tailgate lock is turned by a key - so that the normal 'trunk status' switch can be used to trigger the alarm as well as turn on the trunk light. the part for the 2nd Tailgate Switch is FINIS 1041290.

(5) There's an Alarm Line to the factory Radio, so if the Radio is stolen the alarm goes off.

(6) There are 2 x different kinds of alarm siren. One is driven directly by the GEM, so is vulnerable to disconnects of the main battery. The other is a battery backed siren, driven by a different pin on the Gem. I can't really find the parts for these in my references. From an interwebs search, I think the standard siren is shared with the Mk3 Mondeo and is 96BB 13832-AB, and the battery-backed siren is 5S6Y 19G229-AB - but given they are simple 3 pin alarms, the later 19G229 alarms from newer Fiestas are also likely to work.

(7) Body Loom - has additional lines for the Tailgate ATI, the Door, the Radio Security, the Bonnet Latch and the Alarm - all of which you could conceivably do yourself if you had the time and the patience. i wouldn't bother with part numbers, no-one ever seems to sell looms with part numbers on them in Australia. You can find people that do that in the UK, but then good luck finding anyone that ever came with Stabilty Control - that's a bit of a unicorn feature over there.

(8) The interior light - this alarm uses those two infrared sensors to the left and the right of the high specification interior lamps - the kind you find in every European Ford and even in many Ford Rangers. There's a heap of FINIS part numbers that match. For the normal part number you're generally looking for XXXS 15K069-YY. XXXX can by 2S7T or 5S6Y pr 6M5A or whatever.

(9) Roof Loom - to get the extra pins to the infra red sensors on the interior light, extra wires have to be run from the Body Loom up the A-Pillar and into the roof - just like you have to do for the Rain Sensor and Auto Headlights sensor up behind the interior mirror. Actually, I've found the best option for this will be the Ford Fusion high spec roof loom - as you can get it with the Rain Sensor/Light sensor lines PLUS it has some runs to over the rear seats for rear seat passenger interior lights - one on left and right. That model also came with an overhead DVD player which has a separate subloom to the rear right wheel arch to connect into the speakers. That magic loom has part number 6N1T 14335-DD or DE or FINISH codes 1384303 or 1526740. But good luck finding it. And if you do, get one for me!

For the fun of it, the overhead DVD Loom has part number 1384294, and the DVD itself part number from a fusion is 3N11-10E947-AD ....

Have fun!

[Luke Plaizier]

One-touch window down.

Looking at as much detail as I can about the one touch down feature on the Fiesta, it looks all built into the window switch itself. The one-touch-down window switch has a single 10-pin connector that takes normal power for the windows, uses it to drive the window on the same door, and feeds 2 wires to the opposite door to drive them remotely. On earlier or lower spec dual-window switches, there are 2 x 10 pin connectors underneath, and the wires are moved around. For the passenger side single switch, it too has a single 10 pin connector, but annoyingly the pinouts are just a bit different to any of the other 10 pins. But the connector is the same.

So this is what I surmise.

(1) if you have an older dual-10-pin drivers window switch, you COULD convert to one-touch-down switch by depinning one of the 2 x 10pin connectors and feeding the wires into the remaining 10 pin connector in the right order. I believe you may need one extra pin to feed the power to the one-touch-down function.

(2) On the passenger side, that switch has a power feed for when you press the switch locally, but has 2 x inbound lines from the master switch to also make the windows move. This is something that by default the one-touch-down switch does not have.

But it certainly got me thinking. Could the one-touch-down switch circuitry either be adapted to fit the passenger switch, or could a LHD market one-touch-down switch be modified to allow the pass-through function of the master switch.

Can we find a way to have one-touch-down windows on both the drivers and passenger side...?


Luke

[Luke Plaizier]

Curiously, when you go to AliExpress, the LHD one touch down switches are cheap and plentiful. But I'm buggered if I can find a RHD version.

2 x LHD one touch down experimental switches now on their way inbound to Australia....

One thing I never realised before, is that the one touch down switches have one button that has the double-down-arrow on it. if you press gently on it you can get it to detent once, and press a bit forimer it detents as second time. This is obviously the difference between the manual-down and one-touch-down modes. Perhaps it was obvious to some and alreayd known....but not me.


Lukeyson

[Lunch]

I'm still reading through this thread and I know it's a really old post but did you ever manage to find a WQ brochure?

[Luke Plaizier]

I received a D level GEM to play with. They aren't that expensive truth be told. i get a bit of a sense that people are trying to buy GEM's with the exact features they need, not knowing that there are only a few versions and that otherwise they are completely programmable.....




Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

Originally Posted by Lunch

I'm still reading through this thread and I know it's a really old post but did you ever manage to find a WQ brochure?

Eventually we did, yes. That was how we were able to get an understanding of all the features that they had in the UK. Are you looking for one?


Lukeyson

[Aaron]

Originally Posted by Luke Plaizier

I received a D level GEM to play with. They aren't that expensive truth be told. i get a bit of a sense that people are trying to buy GEM's with the exact features they need, not knowing that there are only a few versions and that otherwise they are completely programmable.....

image


Lukeyson

There’s a “thatfrozen.fez” Youtube vid that touches on this. Shows Forscan being used to enable folding mirrors and has a bit of a rant about the GEM swapping thing.

https://youtu.be/lbjOQseoC8Y

It seems in the UK the standard is to go crazy swapping stuff around because the parts are so available. Here Forscan is far more logical (unless the feature set desired isn’t in the GEM version)

[Aaron]

Originally Posted by LeighMJ

Would love to get cruise control in mine.

It’s doable. I am currently installing a CanM8 cruise kit sourced from the UK. I’ll I’ve spent a little extra to make the Accelerator Pedal tie-in Plug’n’Play (CanM8 cut the loom and solder their unit in-line) in case I have issues on the road it’s still costing well under AUD400 complete.


The patch plug pair. If I ever need to get the cruise out of the “system” this can be unplugged from the accelerator pedal unit and the factory plug put in its standard location without any disassembly.

The remaining wiring will be soldered into the factory loom as per CanM8 instructions.

[Crazy Dazz]

Originally Posted by Luke Plaizier

Bluetooth Hands Free
Climate Control
Rear Parking Sensors
Music Socket Connection
Power Folding Heated Side Mirrors
Rain Sensing Wipers
Auto Headlights
Passenger Airbag Deactivation Switch
Side and Curtain Airbags
ESP
Sony Audio System
Blaupunkt Sat Nav
DIN sized Bezel option (for aftermarket audio)
Interior Movement Sensing Alarm.

Build Options that I have seen reference to:

• Special Equipment Package
• Cold Weather Group
• Electronic Group
• Visibility Package
• Electronic Stability Control
• Luxury Package
• Power Front Windows One Touch Down
• Heated Windscreen
• Dual Power Heated Exterior Mirrors
• Drivers Seat Armrest
• Temp Control Driver Seat
• Temp Control Passengers Seat
• Door Dead Locks
• Brake Booster Emergency Assist
• Traction Control With IVD
• Recirculating Heater
• Aux SVO/DSO Heater
• Navigation System
• Reverse Proximity Sensor
• Anti-Theft Alarm
• Thatcham Catergory 1 Alarm System
• DVD Player
• Diversity Antenna
• Voice Activated Module - British
• Column Stalk Radio Controls
• Auto Headlamps

[Luke Plaizier]

OK, back on the Climate Control.

I've spent the last many months trying to find a Dashboard Loom that has Auto Climate AND Stability Control. I've also been looking to try and find a way to get the auto climate air box without paying extortionate shipping fees. None have worked.

So, these many months have seen me learn FreeCAD and 3D printing. They have also seen me learn how to research connectors and pin types, and find various places to source them - Aliexpress, au.mouser, element13 and some others. So this is the approach I'll be taking - 3D printing and making custom wiring looms - and over the coming weeks I'll be lab testing to validate it all.

I have an LS Focus dual zoom climate dashboard loom. The connectors for this are very similar to that used in the Auto Climate fiesta. So I plucked out all the auto climate wires and wrapped them up in my LAB loom. Other than having a 2nd set of actuators for dual zone operation, it had different wiring for the Blower Fan, and the Focus uses a normal stepper-motor actuator for the recirculation flap rather than the DC motor of the Fiesta. So I needed to find those connectors and rewire them.

WQ EATC Blower Motor Controller (shared with the Mk3 Mondeo). Note how different this is to the 4-stage resistor of the standard blower.



Blower controller wiring customisations to work with the WQ controller:



Recirculation connector customisations to work with the WQ actuator:



Today I wired in the Blower Motor customisation, and after a false start, was able to tickle the EATC into life and test control of the Blower motor. I was also able to verify control of the Temperature Actuator and the Blend Door actuator.





The next step will be to wire in the custom connector for the WQ/MK6 Recirculation actuator and test that.

After that, I will assemble my 3D printed parts and blower motor onto my test heater box, and we'll start doing some tests to see whether the EATC can effectively control the system with my customer gears and mounts.

The final step will be to assemble the custom sub-loom that I have designed. That sub-loom will allow me to patch into the factory standard Fiesta Dashboard Loom, and allow me to install the Auto Climate Module and actuators - all WITHOUT the factory wiring harness or factory heater box making it easy for me.

The install may be retrofittable with the box in the car - but the installation of the Blower Motor Controller is right up behind the drivers footwell, and at the very least might require removal of the pedals and dash for any chance of success - but may actually turn out to be near impossible with the box still in the car.

Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

These are the adapters - printed in blue PLA for now, but will eventually be printed in a dark grey ASA type material called ApolloX - that allow the Blend Door and Temperature actuators to be fitted to the box. Both are fitted over existing elements and need glue or screws to hold it in. Screws penetrate the box, but are located specifically to avoid the moving internal parts.

There is also an adapter to fit the EATC Blower Controller into the location where the 4-speed resistor normally goes. THAT job however requires significant cutting of the box.





Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

These shots show the extent to which the heater box had to be cut to allow for the fitment of the Blower Controller adapter and the controller itself.





Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

Slight setbacks this weekend - but then that is what lab testing is for..

My efforts to get the Recirculation actuator working have not succeeded. I'd made the customisations as per the plan, but the EATC is not driving it. I have ordered another recirc actuator as a troubleshooting measure. Next will be to pin map my loom customisation from end to end to make sure I have not made a mistake. The 3rd option is that the EATC controller itself is damaged, in case 1 and 2 don't succeed.

The 2nd bit of weirdness is that I can no longer control the speed of the blower fan. It turns on and off but now only goes full speed. My first suspicion is that I have blown one of the Chinesium mosfets in the Blower Controller, since it was a cheap AliExpress special. So I have located a used genuine item from overseas - Lithuania in this case - and will see if that helps. The EATC controller sends PWM pulses on a single line to the controller in order to set the blow fan sped - so in order words it's just a PWM driven variable resistor. The fact it was working and then just snapped and sped up makes me think I got the wiring right, but I'll check it end to end as well. It could also be an EATC controller issue though too.

All of which now puts yet another delay on me being able to test further as I wait for the troubleshooting parts to arrive....

Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

Recirculation Actuator probllem found. I had built my loom customisation based on a wiring diagram that gave me LHD loom pinouts, but on deep investigation today, the pins were reversed for RHD looms. So I rebuilt the lab loom with that in mind and the Recirculation actuator now works and the DTC clears!

Next was the Cabin temp sensor which has a little fan 'aspirator' that is supposed to suck air into the sensor - so as feed and gnd for the motor, and feed and gnd for the sensor. The fan was not working and throwing a DTC, although the sensor was fine. I investigated further and found that the WQ EATC module does not supply +ve feed for the blower fan. So I wired in a manual +ve supply for it and re-ran the diagnostics and the DTC for that cleared too. I need to tidy that wiring up with a little switch but otherwise good to go.

I had some concerns about temp sensor gnds possibly causing a problem that all of that is working and passing the diag tests.

So that was a good amount of positive progress.

The last thing still a problem is the Blower Fan running at 100% all the time. I'll do a bit of troubleshooting, but since it was working before and suddenly stopped, I still think a bit of chinesium failed somewhere inside it. I won't be able to confirm until a replacement non-chinese Blower Control Module arrives.


Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

So today was all about getting all my bits fitted to a heater box and seeing what would work.

Annoyingly, I have misplaced the lever arm that connects the Recirculation Actuator to the cables that open and close the recirculation flaps. I can confirm that the actuator is moving but without that arm I can't test their operation.

This lab test has uncovered two items/issues that need further investigation.

(1) The Outlet Register. I have no way to calibrate the EATC module output location to Face/Foot/Demist. And yet the ability to select Face/Foot/Demist is very much dependent on the location of the 360 degree rotatable flap in the heater box. So this tells me that the flap and the actuator need to be installed in a specific position so that the correct outlets work when they are selected. This seems a bit dumb to me as we have already seen situations on the Manual Climate Control where the Cog can slip.



(2) The Temperature flap has a 90 degree movement, but my gears of the same size appear to push that slightly beyond the limit. Now I don't know if that is part of the calibration process, but my add-on parts flex a little and the gears end up slipping when the Actuator is trying to calibrate.



(3) My Blower Motor runs at full speed, which I mentioned previously, so I have ordered a replacement Blower Controller Module to see if I can regain blower speed control.




And here is my little friend....




Lukeyson

[Luke Plaizier]

The lever I have somehow misplaced is this one - it sits under the Recirculator Actuator that sits on the right had side of the box, and the cables for the Recirculation Flaps connect to it.

Annoyingly, I have everything in tightly controlled zip lock bags and I have every little bolt and screw catalogued and ready for us. But this one was floating around my study for a couple of weeks while I drew up actuator gears and tested them on the heater box itself. It's not in any of the obvious places and it serious ****ing me off...



Lukeyson