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10-05-2014, 02:34 PM | #91 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1
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2010 MC TDCI
-People keep scrapping me in carparks, don't know if it's a bad luck car or people are bad parkers these days -sensor (think it's an oxegen sensor) managed to losen itself from the exhaust pipe at rear of engine Quote:
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11-05-2014, 07:48 PM | #92 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 12
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Just coming up to 30000km and the crankshaft seal needs replacing. Still waiting for the call back when the parts arrive but the outside temp sensor replaced @ 14000km took 12 weeks! Driver's side curtain airbag rattle right at ear level is annoying. A couple of attempts at fixing have resulted in it being no better. Rear side panel (passenger side) keeps popping out. Ford blaming the towbar installation that they did for the problem. Other than that it's great!
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17-05-2014, 11:03 AM | #93 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: melbourne
Posts: 83
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I have just had the big resonator removed from my ecoboost ( all ready had sports put on the rear).with a new set of rubber ..the problem is it sounds so so so much better I just want to keep driving.which means more fuel used.
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Fords Forever Last edited by mas89; 17-05-2014 at 11:08 AM. |
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13-11-2014, 10:51 PM | #94 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Hello, have you had any further problems with your Mondeo showing 'Engine Malfunction'? Ours is doing it constantly and we've had it in at our Ford Dealer about 6 times and it's still not fixed. |
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14-11-2014, 12:02 PM | #95 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Quote:
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2016 (MY17) Ford Mondeo Titanium EcoBoost (Moondust Silver)...more power please! |
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10-01-2015, 09:16 AM | #96 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 16
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Mondeo battery (2008 TDCI) flat. I had Battery World come out and replace. Once replaced Anti theft armed and car was a big inoperable lump. Battery world tech could not fix. I was arranging a tow to Ford when my mate disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and car was good as new.
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14-01-2015, 08:02 AM | #97 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 45
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Over Christmas and new year, check engine light comes on and car (MA Zetec) struggles to accelerate. OBD scanner spits out a p2008 code. Turns out to be a faulty solenoid which was replaced and car is as good as before. CD drive fault. Cds already inside will play but won't load any cds any more. Least of my problems as I don't use it that much any way. Intermittent faults with cruise control, drops out after engaging or won't engage at all. Faults can't be reproduced at repair centre as it is working perfectly now. And before Christmas, rocker gasket cover was found to be leaking.
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28-01-2015, 10:45 PM | #98 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
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On the way back from Ballarat, my 2011 TDCI Mondeo displayed an 'Engine Malfunction' error, and put itself in limp mode. Took it to the dealer, and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Bit of a worry that the car didnt store the code, but the dealer tells me there is nothing recorded.
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04-02-2015, 09:28 AM | #99 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 86
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I've been meaning to ask about this myself as I've wondered what on earth was going on. It sounded like the engine was coughing and spluttering and I thought there might be something wrong with it but it's good to know that it's not an actual problem.
Cheers |
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22-07-2015, 12:05 PM | #100 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
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Any had the issue with the park lights on the driver side only coming on after parked and the right hand indicator coming on randomly while driving. Sent my battery flat and a real pain in the backside.
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22-07-2015, 04:06 PM | #101 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 22
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Quote:
So if the indicator is coming on randomly while driving, it may be getting into this same position at night and just triggering the sensor enough to make it think you have told it to turn the lights on. You can try the blinker configuration at home and see if what I have stated above is true. If so, maybe apply a small amount of pressure on the arm to see if the lights come on with out much force at all. It may be a new blinker arm mechanism is required or I could be completely wrong..... |
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25-07-2015, 08:12 AM | #102 | ||
Zetec MC Hatch TDCi
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 61
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Had a similar problem last year however it was the left hand side mucking up.
Indicator stalk/unit was replaced under warranty. Took several weeks for dealer to get the part. |
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31-08-2015, 12:11 PM | #103 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 172
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2014 Mc lx tdci wagon (company car)
Broke down at 14k, needed to be towed to dealer, both engine light & trans fault displayed. Apparently it was a leaking fuel rail? Plastic guides on the cargo compartment cover broke within the first month, apparently not covered under warranty. Rattle in the roof lining from new, fixed at first service. It's done 28k now and the dsg is playing up. It hesitates (even more than usual), feels like it's slipping when given a hard time & shift erratically. Think they should remove the letter "f" from "power shift" for a more accurate description of the gearboxes in these cars. |
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23-09-2015, 01:47 PM | #104 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,266
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2010 MB TDCi wagon, registered in 2011 and coming up to 60,000 km. I expected to do a much higher mileage, but circumstances changed.
After 4.5 years, it's just developed a creak from the centre console. No other rattles or squeaks, unlike the early MA that I had. It has some minor oil seepage from the sump, which isn't worth fixing at this stage. So no real issues at all, still on the original battery and brakes, although the rear pads will need replacing soon. Consistently gets at least 6 l/100 km on trips with the boot full of tools. I have backed into a few things that were in the left rear blind spot, but that's not a reliability issue! I drove a MC last year, which certainly felt livelier with the Powershift trans. But the MB is smoother to drive around town, and I don't think there's much difference when in "manual" mode. I almost traded it on a Passat wagon when it was 4 years old, but after a long test drive, I drove the Mondeo home and thought why would I want to change? The bling on the R-line was tempting (runout deal), but the Mondeo is a nicer drive. And after my MA experience, 1 wouldn't buy the new Mondeo until it's been in production a couple of years.
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. Last edited by NZ XR6; 23-09-2015 at 01:51 PM. Reason: typo |
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23-09-2015, 02:03 PM | #105 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 179
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That and all Passat TDi's are about to get gimped when they turn the environmental controls on full time.
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Mondeo 2011 MC Titanium TDCi. Ink Blue. RIP: Mondeo 2008 MA TDCi. Colorado Red, Leather, Bluetooth, sunroof, Tow pack. C.R. Tech tuning box |
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23-09-2015, 02:04 PM | #106 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,266
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I am really pleased I didn't buy it!
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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28-09-2015, 01:59 PM | #107 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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I run two MC wagons. They are 2011 2.0 diesel models with powershift transmissions. At 125000km on each car I've had near zero problems. One had a coolant leak. Changing the heater hose required a special remotely operated plier to get the clip off. Best things are the handling and the long distance between filling up. Average fuel consumption is 6.2/4 l/km.
Servicing is a bit expensive though. |
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29-09-2015, 11:40 PM | #108 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,266
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Servicing shouldn't be expensive, there's not much that needs doing. The Ford dealerships rip us off in a big way. I do my own servicing now that it's out of warranty.
The Powershift fluid changes would cost though.
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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30-09-2015, 02:42 PM | #109 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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The powershift transmission fluid change is not expensive if you do it yourself
using FUCHS DCTF. I use the 20 litre containers, the shelf life is uncertain but looks good to me so far. The main problem for DIYers might be getting the car up and level. If you don't have access to a hoist, you will need some combination of multiple jacks and jack stands to do the job. Otherwise it is fairly simple. I use Forscan to check transmission temp, which should be 35 to 40 deg C. I use a bubble level also. Have done it 4 times now over the two cars. Kangaroos are my main worry. |
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28-12-2015, 11:45 PM | #110 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dubbo, formerly Canberra
Posts: 342
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2011 MC Titanium TDCI wagon, bought second-hand a month and a half ago with 89,000km on the clock. I've just ticked over 1000kms of my own, culminating in a drive to Sydney with the family on Boxing Day and returning today.
About an hour from Sydney, travelling at 110km/h under cruise control on the Hume Highway, I get a warning chime, "Transmission Limited Function" message and it loses all drive. Manual mode displays "7" as the gear and still has no drive; the motor just revs like it's in neutral. I coast to a stop on the side of the road, switch off the engine and start it back up: the message clears, driveline engages and it's fine all the way back to Canberra. Bit disconcerting. I'm going to ring the service department tomorrow to ask if they can look at it (if they're open), just hoping my ownership experience isn't about to get a whole lot of expensive... |
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29-12-2015, 05:21 PM | #111 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Blue Mountains NSW
Posts: 78
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that doesn't sound too good, but could be something minor. Make sure they check at Ford for any Error Codes in the Diagnostic System. has the Trans Fluid being changed? I sold mine, a MB Titanium Diesel Wagon with 236000 on the Clock, I had my Fluid changed every 60k as required. I never had any Issues with the Powershift
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Endura St Line AWD in Ruby Red |
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30-12-2015, 02:22 PM | #112 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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As borntoshop says, get a scan, verify fluid change at 60000km.
Something minor could be an electrical connection (ground,connector). That done with no conclusive answer, I'd ask for a fluid change and filter check under warranty (3 months?) If there is a developing mechanical fault, there may be evidence in the filter (metal shavings, bits of plastic) debris. If that's all good, maybe it was a computer 'glitch' and will never happen again. |
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30-12-2015, 04:56 PM | #113 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dubbo, formerly Canberra
Posts: 342
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Thanks borntoshop and rondeo.
Car went to Ford today and I just collected it back. There were no fault codes stored. They did find multiple software updates for the PCM, TCM and ABS and applied those. The technician also cleaned and retensioned the earth connectors. I asked about the transmission fluid change and the technician confirmed (through lookup on the computer) that it was (would have been?) done at the 60,000km service. Cost me $145 for one hour's labour (though told me they spent 2-3). I'm inclined to agree it was probably a one-off computer glitch (especially since the fix was to turn it off and on again...). Now that they've updated the powertrain software, checked the earths, and lightened my wallet, it may never occur again. Rondeo - I assume you're referring to used car warranty from a dealer? Unfortunately, I bought privately, so no recourse there. The previous owner did have all services done at the dealership, on time every time, and it presented darn near immaculate... |
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02-01-2016, 05:26 PM | #114 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Cruise control working intermittently, turns itself off when you slow down with the "-" button. Radio display won't display anything if direct sun light has be on it on a warm day. |
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12-01-2016, 02:25 AM | #115 | |||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
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Quote:
I had already looked into the possible Technical Service Bulletin that addresses the less than stellar fit and finish of the evaporator covers allowing A/C condensation to leak water and not through the drain hose. But I did get a tip from that Bulletin where it suggests exhausting all other alternatives, to which I found below and helped by following the dampness pattern Turns out to be the A/C drain hose, specifically the foamy gasket on the lower white plastic fitting to the hole in the body, with the combination of exhaust heat shield that's butted up against the actual external drain fitting. The result is the drain hole being blocked to some extent and backlog of water, but the location of the actual drain tube is right where your left foot is, so with the loose fitting, water is soaking into the fibreglass heat shield backing and allowed to bleed back past the fitting soaking and partially leaking into and past the gasket. Any and all movement from the drivers foot squishes the water from the gasket (on the drivers foot well side) making the carpet wet. Also heavy rain allowing the same water ingress. The fix I used was simple Ultra Blue gasket maker (silicon) a small bead under and on top of the gasket and refit, it looked great and a tiny amount squeezed around the complete fitting so I know I have full coverage. 12hrs to cure and that fixed any water ingress, and this trip proved it with no water coming back from both A/C condensation (both 9hr legs) and torrential rain on the return trip. As for the Heat shield, I removed the first front section and pushed it forward as far as it will go. This gives access to the back end of the drain tube fitting, which you need to press the locking tabs to push the fitting back into the foot well for removal. On doing my fix I also shaped the heat shield to not butt up to the fitting and refit it. Problem solved. Oh and it felt so good and cold on a 40 something Deg day. Though there was two other issues I'll leave for another time, both not what you'd want on a Holiday trip. One costs $950 in the end and the other is me needing to retro fit a new fuel filter/water trap. Last edited by cobrin; 12-01-2016 at 02:37 AM. |
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29-01-2016, 09:33 AM | #116 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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Thanks for the info on damp Cobrin. Will you post details on the other issues?
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30-01-2016, 08:28 PM | #117 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
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wasn't going to go into it, Radiator Fan had failed (AC tripping out on High-Temp) some time into the trip. $7-800 from Brisbane. I was considering keeping the old fan but it showed signs of previous repair and I decided to bin it. Was a quick turn around.
Engine shut down shortly after hitting the hwy (flippin great) on the return home. I suspected poor quality fuel, I was considering a water trap because of it but will hold back on that since it's happened again. Now at home, on Thursday arvo it shut down again, gladly it restarted immediately after. I'm ordering a USB OBD2 and will use with Forscan just for an extra added help in diagnosing. My OBD2 code scanner didn't find any codes at all. Yesterday I spend a few hours diagnosing what I could and it didn't fault. Hasn't faulted today either. The vehicle hasn't given any trouble ever till then (except the water ingress as above). So the last work to be done was the complete Fan Assembly and Controller. I tried the wiggle test on the harness with everything that could shutdown the engine and didn't find anything. Inspected fuses and relays, reseated essential systems so will have to wait if I can find something. At least till I can log data. On the Plus side the car sounds so much nicer with the new fan and controller. What I originally thought was 3 speeds (off/low/high) seems to be variable with soft start. |
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31-01-2016, 11:10 AM | #118 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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My experience with fault codes on mondeo is one that cleared without having been reset with a scanner, it was there one moment and gone the next after restarting the car.
P2263 turbo boost pressure, went into limp mode, (30km to go) maybe just no turbo. Embarrassing going up the hill. That was a couple of months ago, no recurrence. Suspect 'glitch!' |
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31-01-2016, 04:16 PM | #119 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
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yeah I think (haven't looked into it) that there are Hard and Soft Codes.
Soft type errors, in that if it should rectify itself (being temporarily OOR ect. seeing as it's intermittent) it's not stored. Then Hard codes that are logged pending on the level of error and some what permanent or definite failure. |
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10-02-2016, 06:21 AM | #120 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Goulburn NSW
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Any updates on this one? I experienced the same symptoms this morning on the way to work. Cruise set at 110, then chime and same error messages. Mine is a 2012 MC LX TDCi wagon with 134,000km on it. I only picked it up on Friday from Pickles in Canberra and have only travelled about 500km. It came with a 5000km warranty so hoping that this will be covered if there is a major issue. |
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