WQ Fiesta Options not available in Oz - Page 5

**Luke Plaizier** · 15-07-2021, 02:57 PM

Backup parts arriving. I still haven't had any luck finding my damn recirulation actuator lever either. I've turned the place upside down and found a whole bunch of parts I'd set aside some time ago and am glad to find them again, but not this.

Best I can do is order one from Fitinpart for $16 I guess. I'll learn my lesson and CAD this one so I can print more for myself should I get all forgetful again in the future.

I put some thought and due diligence into getting an Indian Figo lever actually, but pulled myself up at the last minute. Mk6 Fiesta has 2 x cables with one going to each of the 2 x recirculation flaps. I found that the clever Aussie engineers changed this on the Figo - with just 1 x Cable to the centre of the flaps, and a plastic gear mechanism that turns both flaps equally.

Anyways, backup EATC module including the facia bezel and the internal temp sensor have arrived - in case I let any of the smoke out of the chips on the existing one I have - and a backup recirculation actuator that I thought I needed when I had that LHD/RHD issue a couple of weeks ago.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 17-07-2021, 04:07 PM

I decided to raid the side of the box in the project car shell and grabbed the recirculation lever I needed. It was enough to validate that the Recirculation control is working fine. I'll take a bunch of measurements and CAD up this bastard so I can 3D print one and not get caught again.

I have a bit of a problem with my Air Outlet actuator though and I am not sure how to address it.

Today I decided to try and work out how to set the correct outlets. The trick I'd planned to use was to have the EATC set the position to face level, remove the actuator, use the diagrams in section 412-02 of the workshop manual to manually set the position of the blend door to the right location, and the re-install the actuator.

It looked good at the start, but weird things started to happen. So what I tried was to set Face, and then press the button to add foot, then disable foot, then turn it on again etc etc. The blend door is meant to move forward a bit, then come bac kto the face position, then move forward a bit, then return. BUT in each case, it moves forward a bit, then returns further back than when it started. And it does this EACH TIME. So the blend door then drifts further and further from the set position.

I thought maybe I had a faulty actuator, so changed the actuator, but the symptom remained.

I thought maybe there EATC module might be faulty. So I swapped in the one acquired in the previous post, but the symptom remained.

Since these are dipole stepper motors, I thought maybe one of the poles of the forward direction was faulty, so I did a manual pin to pin test of all connections from the actuator connector to the EATC connector. But no, the +ve supply and all 4 pins on the actuator connector connect through just fine to the EATC module. None of those pins seems to have a short to +ve or Gnd either.

The gears I have 3D printed have the same number of teeth on the actuator and the blend door - but not having the factory cogs does not explain to me why I have a difference in forward vs reverse distance covered.

Perplexed. One step forward and one back...

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 17-07-2021, 10:46 PM

A quick video showing the problem with the outlet Blend Door drift problem I am having.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 19-07-2021, 09:35 AM

We're oh so close, but this drift is a show stopper. Time to find some straw to clutch onto.

Those actuators I have were acquired from an Australian LS Focus Ghia. 3M5T 19E616-AA. The 3 being a 2003 part number, the M5 being a Euro Focus C214/C307/C344/C346.

Looking at Microcat, the part number it is directing me to is AV6N 19E616-AA. A being 2010, V6 referring to the generic C1 platform.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_G...C-car_Platform

I'm curious as to why a model released in 2006 (facelift) needs a 2010 part according to Microcat? The previous part number may have been superceded perhaps.

The appearance of the actuators are marginally different. Given I have checked everything else, I guess I better eliminate this as well.

The 3M5T actuator part I have now:

Vs the AV6N part:

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 22-07-2021, 11:33 AM

Suprising how hard these are to find - probably because they don't seem to break and nobody see's any value in them. Anyways, replacement drawn up, printed, checked and issues found, adjusted, reprinted, and now ready for testing.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 22-07-2021, 05:10 PM

.... and it seems to actually work.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 24-07-2021, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luke Plaizier

(3) My Blower Motor runs at full speed, which I mentioned previously, so I have ordered a replacement Blower Controller Module to see if I can regain blower speed control.

Lukeyson

Used Fusion Blower Controller has arrived - aka The Hedgehog. And it confirms that my Chinesium controller had become a prickly desert plant.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 18-08-2021, 01:20 PM

The AV6N Actuator motors have arrived, so this weekend it looks like I'll find out if they make any difference.

The better story though is that I took a chance awhile back and found an item listed at shop.euroimpex.lt - the heater box from a 2006 LHD Fusion/Fiesta with EATC that was damaged and they were having trouble selling. 60 Euro for the item (normally in the 200 to 300 range) and 60 Euro to ship (normally in the 400 and above Euro range! No joke!) It arrived this week and did not cost me any significant appendages! While damaged enough to be kind of unuseable (without major repairs), it has all of the mouldings for the Auto-Climate actuators on the side and that was all that I was after - a measurable reference, especially around the Blower Motor Controller.

BUT, I was pleasantly suprised to find that it also came with actuators still on it, AND all the little gears that connect the Actuators to the Blende Doors - the very things I had resigned to never ever seeing in my lifetime and have been mocking up myself by guesswork! One of the first things I've discovered is that the gears on the outlet blend door actuator are NOT of the same size/ratio or with equal tooth count - so I would have never been able to line the blend door up with outlets using the same-ratio gears I have now. That still does not explain the blend-door drift though - moving more clockwise than it does anticlockwise. But I now have some more things to try. The FIRST of which will be to attach my controllers and loom to those actuators as is and see what I get.

The next thing will be to CAD up copies of those gears and adjust my custom moulded actuator mount adapters to suit - which is kind of back to the drawing board in a literal-digital sense, but at least all I need to do now is just adjust the dimensions of what I already have.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 28-08-2021, 05:44 PM

Key discovery - the Outlet Blend Door 'drift' problem I had was because I had assumed that blend door was a 360 degree engagement that just needed to be set right at the start. However, after disassembling the factory gears it now appears that there's what looks like a 230 degree limited sweep with a tab on one gear that hits a limit. So while yes the gears need to be meshed correctly at the start, the Controller finds it's position by pushing to one of the limits until it can't move any more, and then coming back. So it was always pushing forward that bit too much when unlimited, and coming back less than it should - hence the drift.

Suffice to say, the custom setup I created does not have this feature. I'll have to go back and work out whether this is still possible in the space I have and if I can implement. If I'm still OK, I'll replicate the factory gears first. Then I will work out how to shift the mesh tabs and limit tabs to have the blend door still face the right direction even though my actuator will be driving from a different position.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 28-08-2021, 05:53 PM

The Mk1 Focus Wiper/indicator and clockspring all seem to be quite similar to the Mk6 Fiesta. Uncannily similar in fact. There is a version of the Mk1 Focus Clockspring that supports stability control AND cruise control, so it has more wires passing through it. The clockspring for an XR4 I have here is noteable in that it has a lot of free pins but there is not connection to them - the Mk1 must simply wire up another pin an pass it through. Since the inside of a clocksprint is just coiled ribbon wire - I wonder if it's possible to replace the clcokspring ribbon with one with more wires on it, and allow for the pass-throgh of the cruise control single wire AND radio button single wire - and make use of the Mk7 Fiesta wheel with all the buttons on it???

I see on some of the Mk6 facebook groups that many people are actually doing a Mk7 wheen swap on a Mk6. They mention using the Mk6 Airbag Squib to make it work. I wonder if there is a write-up somewhere?

**Luke Plaizier** · 28-08-2021, 11:07 PM

The XR4 Clockspring has part numbers 2S6T 14A664-BC or 1307541. That in itself already seems to be a rare beast.

The Mk1 Focus Clockspring with additional line for cruise control buttons is 2M51 16A664-DE or 1307829. This one seems even harder to find! The US Focus often had cruise control so it might be easier to find there, but they seem to have slightly different part numbers for the clockspring and i haven't worked that out yet.

The Mk1 Focus part number for steering wheel mounted buttons is 2M5T 9E740-AB or 1149779 - but they don't look shaped at all like they'd fit on a WQ wheel.

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 31-08-2021, 09:42 AM

The only images I could ever find of the EATC HVAC gears:

Versus the real thing. Most noteably, the two on the left are NOT the same size as seems teh case in the original diagram - I would have been doomed to fail if I'd never obtained these!

Lukeyson

**Luke Plaizier** · 13-09-2021, 01:06 PM

That'll do nicely donkey....

**Luke Plaizier** · 20-02-2022, 02:10 PM

Just popping in quickly to say that over christmas I re-engineered my Auto Climate control mounts and gears and have integrated that range-limit on the Output Blend Door actuator in a similar fashion to the OEM setup. After some lab testing, it solved my problem - but on to the next one - which is, exactly what position does the blend door need to be in to provide air at the right output? The outputs being Face, Feet and Demist. I mapped out the OEM auto climate settings with the factory gears, and it puts the blend door in a slightly different position to the manual-dial. I've had a bit of a scour of the Workshop Manual to see if there are any clues there, but it's not of any help. So it looks like I need to set this up near or near enough to get it to work.

The next step is to do a test fit in the test car. The biggest things to check are the clearance to the dashboard cross-brace beam, and to make sure the Dashboard skin itself can be lowered over the box without too much interference from the actuators due to some non-interference constraints in how I attach things to the heater box.

Lukeyson