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#1591 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
Dream Maker doesn't have any Si02/silica in it and as such will be more stable over time. Bead Maker does have a small amount of Si02 in it but seems to be stable over time. A key thing to remember with detailing chemicals is to give them a shake before use. This is more important on Si02 infused products as they can settle over time.
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#1592 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 355
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Quote:
looking forward to trying it. |
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#1593 | |||
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-I found it's beneficial to have your towel/drying towel slightly damp prior to using Dream Maker. Either use a mist of water or load the towel up with the product. -You will need two towels, one damp for the initial wipes and a dry one to remove any residue. -Try and use a very fine and even mist of the product to ensure even coverage. You don't need to use a lot but I found it important to apply evenly over the panel, and work section by section. ![]() ![]()
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#1594 | |||
Former BTIKD
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sunny Downtown Wagga Wagga. NSW.
Posts: 53,197
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Dying at your job is natures way of saying that you're in the wrong line of work.
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#1595 | ||
MY21.5 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Shoalhaven, NSW
Posts: 2,450
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So I'm keen to keep my new Mustang in top top shape.
It's ceramic coated, which I'm new to, so I'm after some advice on how to look after it, and have it looking its best. I currently wash with Ph neutral shampoo (Bowdens Nanolicious), after having soaked it with AutoGlym Polar Blast (also Ph neutral). I used to use a dying towel (Bowdens Big Green Sucker), but even that introduces a small amount of micro scratches/swirls. So I bought a BigBoi Mini+ to dry it off. Using the blower works well, but it tends to leave a fair amount of water stains, which is really frustrating. I'm not sure if it's because the blower is heated, which dries up some of the water? Or if using water from the rainwater tank is causing water stains? Googling says it shouldn't. So after drying it with the blower, I still need to go over it and wipe away all those dried in water marks. They come off easily, but it's a pain having to do it. Is this just part of blow drying? Or should it not be that way? I'm thinking the heat is something to do with it. Either way, what's a good product that I can quickly go over the car with after drying, to give it a nice sheen and remove any remaining water marks? Something like Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Detailer? This is my daily, doing almost 1000kms a week, so it cops a lot of dirt and grime, hence why I'd like to do a good job at keeping it clean and protected. Appreciate any suggestions ![]()
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#1596 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Checking out soft furnishings....
Posts: 8,687
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Yep, as the other have said, it will make the paint pop. The other to thing to consider about layering them. You will get a superior finish than using Jet alone. You should also see around 6 months of longevity. I've found Jet by itself to only last 2-3 months when the car is out in the elements. As also said, Lustre will hide minor defects.
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#1597 | ||
T3/Sprint8
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 16,342
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DFB re the mini Shinemates......
Whats the diff please - I currently have this one https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...order-may-30th but for small areas I'm after https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...a-polisher-kit https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...order-may-30th I presume the above is the go for easier usage in tight spots....
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Tickfords T3/TS50 '02 Sprint8 manual Sept 24 '16 Daily Macan GTS "Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Abraham Lincoln" |
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#1598 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,508
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Just ordered this... Plus 1 litre of Carpro reset (have to try it, even though NV snow is just fine) and some Carpro ech20 with spray bottle and cloths, just to get over the $150 and get free postage. Now to think up a story for the mrs ![]() The irony is I can't even wash my cars at the moment thanks to a bulging disc in lower back. Well, when I say can't, that should be shouldn't. Just not as often as before.
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#1599 | ||
T3/Sprint8
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 16,342
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![]() I know, I used to say similar long ago and thankfully my better half doesn't get to see the spend bill but until she gets into the mancave now and then its a quick glance - how much crap you got in here under her breath ![]() Embrace it mate ![]()
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Tickfords T3/TS50 '02 Sprint8 manual Sept 24 '16 Daily Macan GTS "Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Abraham Lincoln" |
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#1600 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Sydney
Posts: 4
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#1601 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
The first one is a competitor to the Rupes Duetto - https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...order-may-30th https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...o&_ss=e&_v=1.0 This is a way of offering a smaller machine with a smaller 12mm throw but fitted with a larger 5 inch pad. A machine like this has a very specific band width, one I don't fully understand. With DA machines, the smaller the throw, the more aggressive the action. In theory, this would makes these machines cut better with the larger 5 inch pad compared to a larger machine with a 15mm throw. The second is a 3 inch machine with the 12mm throw. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...a-polisher-kit This machine would be the most useful of the three, especially if you already have a larger 5 inch polisher. The third is a rotary machine capable of multiple pad sizes. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...order-may-30th If you don't have a lot of polishing experience with a rotary, perhaps skip that for now. I have limited usage of rotary polishers, save for the Rupes Nano in rotary mode. With rotary, the larger the pad size, the more aggressive the cut. As such, I'm only comfortable in using the tiny Nano as a rotary. From memory, fordomatic has that machine. If it were me, as a supplemental 3 inch polisher, the Shine Mate 12mm, Rupes LHR12 or Shine Mate EB351-3 would be the choices. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...a-polisher-kit https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...bital-polisher https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...b&_ss=e&_v=1.0 If you were more so looking for a machine for intricate areas, I would prefer the Rupes Nano or the similar ones sold below, I feel you would get more control with the smaller physical size. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...o&_ss=e&_v=1.0 (I know, it's VERY overpriced but I love it) https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/m...no-hybrid.html https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...dless-polisher This one will actually do both 3 inch and smaller - https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...-ec-2-5-bundle
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten Last edited by DFB FGXR6; 11-05-2022 at 05:59 PM. |
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#1602 | |||
Donating Member
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Location: Checking out soft furnishings....
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Quote:
Even your understanding and wording of replies when people dont understand why some shop bought products are inferior, you always give advice specific to what people have access to etc, kudos.
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#1603 | |||
Donating Member
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Posts: 12,179
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Quote:
With air drying, you can either spend the better part of 30+ minutes getting each and every drip, or do it 90% dry and finish off with a towel and a drying aid. I know some who will insist on absolute no contact with the washing and drying process, and others who accept that some very minor marring or love marks are just part of the deal. I'm the former, mainly because I find using a towel and a drying aid is so enjoyable. I'm also washing it safely, using high quality towels and high quality drying aids, in other words I'm doing my best to mitigate the towel touching the paint. With a drying aid, you have two choices, one with some added protection or one purely for gloss and lubrication. Gloss only would be products like Meguiars Last Touch or my current favorite, P&S Paint Gloss. https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...SABEgK37vD_BwE https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/me...er-3-8l-d15501 https://detailingshed.com.au/product...0d68dc69&_ss=r ![]() ![]() If you want to add a little protection, helpful in maintaining your ceramic coating, then the Megs Hybrid Ceramic Detailer would be a solid choice, as would P&S Bead Maker. https://www.automegastore.com.au/meg...detailer-768ml https://detailingshed.com.au/product...18399576195129 ![]() ![]() Depending on what bottle size you buy, you may need to get a smaller spray bottle to go with it. If you go for either of the P&S products, their spray bottle is decent (a labeled bottle with a Tolco sprayer head) or look into the Kwazar's is you want to go full send (the smaller 500mm is best). https://detailingshed.com.au/product...9dd6c964&_ss=r The Big Green Sucker is a good towel, perhaps a touch big for when you are using a blower as well. If you want to go smaller and stay shopping in the Big Box's, try Bowdens Drop Bear. They don't state it's for use as a drying towel but I find it works fine for this task. That said, at $25 it's too expensive for what it is. https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...gg_q=drop+bear I grab the medium Gauntlet (one per car) or the FTW (two per car) towels the most though - https://detailingshed.com.au/product...32869715017867 https://detailingshed.com.au/product...1e4bba74&_ss=r ![]() ![]() EDIT - You may also want to invest in a water-spot remover as well. These help remove water spots that have etched into the ceramic coating or worse, the clearcoat. You wont use this much but is certainly worth having, it's saved me a couple of times. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...s&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://vgautopaints.com.au/products...480bc6d9&_ss=r
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten Last edited by DFB FGXR6; 11-05-2022 at 06:53 PM. |
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#1604 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
If someone asks a question here, my replies are as much about helping others as it is about helping shift my horrible internal thought process to something vastly more positive. Thank you for the kind words, they mean more than you might realize. ![]()
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#1605 | ||
Donating Member
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Location: Checking out soft furnishings....
Posts: 8,687
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I'll add, the reason i love my mini rotary is because its ability to get in the hard places without stopping like an RO. When an RO hits certain contours it stops because of the pressure it's unable to keep going RO. I use my mini rotary all the time, especially where the 15mm RO gets stuck on contours, out come the rotary as it powers through.
In saying this you have to be super careful not to burn the paint, it will also kick back on you if you are going too fast or have too much pressure. I also never use any rotary on bumpers or side skirts or anything plastic. I learnt the hard way with too much power and then having it kick and burn straight through the plastic. I snapped a mirror off my old silver XR8, burnt though the boot garnish on my rebel and mashed a side trim on my sportsman ![]() ![]() I rarely use my 20mm rotary unless im refining after sanding, using a wool pad etc.
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#1606 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
As for your wife, I'm sure she has a particular favorite thing to spend money on..........we all do............use that as your counter argument. ![]()
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#1607 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,508
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Quote:
Also, to everyone who shares their experiences and feedback, and those asking the questions, a big thanks as well for making this one of the best threads on the forum. And its FREE. ![]()
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#1608 | |||
T3/Sprint8
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Location: Australia
Posts: 16,342
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Quote:
I hear you handling whilst doing the job, smaller makes for easier control and moving around obsticles etc..... As much as I like shinemate 12mm mini I lean towards a full kit with all the pieces like Shinemate EP03 Mini BUT Maxshine Mini Plus gets me in ! Finally my first cordless purchase so thats the call will get into DShed site and order. Already a have more gear ready to order through waxit - was hoping could get everything there for the ease but not this time....... Thanks again DFB.
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Tickfords T3/TS50 '02 Sprint8 manual Sept 24 '16 Daily Macan GTS "Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Abraham Lincoln" |
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#1609 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 326
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Thanks to everyone in this thread for the excellent advise and information but an extra thanks to DFB. You are a legend. ![]() |
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#1610 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
Like the Rupes Nano, the Maxshine version gives you the option to run in rotary or DA modes via different attachments. ![]() The fact the Maxshine comes with an extension bar is a bonus, you would think Rupes would throw that in for $1300! I tend to use the Nano in DA mode most of the time. ![]() ![]() But I'm also liking to use it as a mini-rotary around glass edges and really tiny areas that the movement of a DA would not be suitable. ![]() ![]() What I have found also with the Nano is that it can stall pretty easily, so let the machine do the work and apply steady light pressure. As for ordering with Waxit, I did a stock take on pads the other day and what I needed to replace...........the tally was so high I actually had to pause for thought. ![]() Oh, and if you do some ordering with Waxit, grab a Rupes Claw Pad Tool while you are there, you can thank me later........ https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...w&_ss=e&_v=1.0 ![]()
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#1611 | |||
MY21.5 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Shoalhaven, NSW
Posts: 2,450
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Quote:
![]() One other thing, with ceramic coating, should I still polish and/or wax? Or is it best to leave the ceramic coating on the exterior to do it's thing?
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#1612 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
And again, some waxes can be used to top a ceramic coating, many will not bond properly and alter the characteristics of the coating (look, water repellency ect). That's were your drying aid comes into the picture. If you use a product with some Si02 in it (Bead Maker/Meg HCD), you will add/protect the coating underneath as well as boosting gloss like a wax would. If you use something like Paint Gloss, then you would use a Si02 topper/drying aid every six months to help the coating.
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#1613 | |||
MY21.5 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Shoalhaven, NSW
Posts: 2,450
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Quote:
So the Meg HCD should only be used every 6 months or so? What about my weekly washes, can I still use the HCD every few weeks, or is that too much? If so, what can I use on a weekly basis post-drying, that will give a nice gloss. That's where I use the Last Touch or equivalent?
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#1614 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
My reference to every 6 months was if you chose to use a product without any Si02 in it, Paint Gloss/Boss Gloss/Last Touch ect. Using one every 6 months would be advised in such case.
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#1615 | ||
MY21.5 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Shoalhaven, NSW
Posts: 2,450
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Ahhh, gotcha, thanks!
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#1616 | ||
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It's been raining quite a bit over the last few days. A freshly waxed car is always amusing to watch as water refuses to settle on the paint. This was just before driving home, the car was almost dry by the time I got home, the water shooting from the paint.
![]() ![]() ![]() For reference, this is Collinite 845 with Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer uses as a topper.
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#1617 | |||
Oppressive patriarch
![]() Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Should i be concerned? Or seek help? ![]()
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. Lamenting lost Australian manufacturing. |
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#1618 | ||
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Boss Gloss is a old-school Quick Detailer, as such they don't really have any protectiveness to them, just gloss. Use it as much as you like.
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#1619 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
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#1620 | ||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,508
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Finally got around to buying this today
https://www.bunnings.com.au/karcher-...-hose_p6279542 I only have a k2 unit with 4.5m hose so now I'll have 14.5m of hose. Be good to finally be able to wash the cars without having to move the main unit around all the time. A lot of money just for a hose though, which is why it took so long to buy it.
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