Mowing ..

[.:4:.]

If you already have ryobi batteries, financially wise, picking up a ryobi skin makes sense. So for 2 reasons really. You dont have to pay for the battery and charger, and because you use the batteries in more then 1 thing they get used so therefore maintained. Regardless of if the tool is the best one out there, unless you use it everyday, sticking to your existing battery platform will probably be better off.

[Vesper Martini]

Ryobi seems to be ok, I have quite a few variations.

Bunnings Killed the likes of GMC with all the replacements they issued, so you have to have a reliable product to go into business with them.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

Great feedback as always DFB.
Thanks.
Yes agree battery is better for long use weight and overall good for the body for my garden is large as mentioned.
I’m fit enough but anything to make lighter work.
Those 2 no name ones not worth the risk by the sound of it plus I wasn’t that keen.

Correct I currently have the ryobi battery chargers and 3 batteries.
The easy purchase is going the ryobi hedge trimmer but damn I like the look of the EGO products !
Think I’ll go suss them out before I go ryobi at this stage.
Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Ryobi would be the quick, easy and cost-effective solution here. For occasional domestic use, you will be absolutely fine.

With EGO, the money you pay is going into the batteries. If you plan to change or add equipment in the future, the EGO battery system is the best out there. I recently bought a LB 765 blower in a kit with two batteries and the rapid charger. The tools weigh virtually nothing, the 5.0 Ah battery is VERY heavy though and overall weight difference between a petrol Stihl and the EGO LB 765 is only grams.





I wanted to get into the EGO equipment for the battery technology, I also wanted to add the cooling fan that has just gone on sale.



A word of warning though - Like all American mowers, the EGO mowers are not ideally suited to Australian lawns. I know you are up for a mower in the future, but unless you are cutting the very tips off tall fescue, I think there are better mowers out there. That's not dissing the power units themselves, it's the chassis that is out of place here.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

More blower issues!

To set the scene, my normal process for doing a lawn is to do the edges first with a line trimmer or edger and then get the blower out to direct any leaves, debris or clippings from the edges back onto the lawn. I then mow, cutting the grass and sucking up whatever had been blown onto the lawn.

So having done the edges and blowing, I put the blower on top of the bins and started mowing. Out of the corner of my eye, the guy decided to grab my blower to clean under his boat. Next thing I know, he had the machine on its side trying and had managed to catch my attention. Somehow, he managed to yank on the starter rope and snap something inside, preventing the recoil from doing its job. I pulled the starter/engine cover off the unit but was not something I could repair.

This guy is a bit of a derro and not someone I feel entirely comfortable around so I didn't make a fuss, explaining the machine is on its last legs anyway. Still, the repair itself will cost about $100, add the lost time and travel to the Stihl dealer, this will end up costing me in excess of $150.

So, in attempting to earn $55 from cutting the lawns, I ended up with a bill for $150. NOT HAPPY.

I was once told that "you can lend your wife, but never your chainsaw".......similar concept here, although the guy didn't actually ask to borrow the blower in the first place.

Got my Stihl blower back from repair today. It was exactly what I thought, the dopey bugger broke both the drive and rewind springs. Total repair was cost was $80, plus about an hour of my time back and forth.



Good news is that the thing is running STRONG at the moment. On the service invoice, I see that this machine was purchased in May 2012. That's actually a really good run on a unit that is used pretty hard. It's been run on Stihl HP Ultra synthetic oil for the majority of its life and is still running hard. The only repairs it has needed are things that are bolted to or around the engine itself.



HP Ultra is expensive, about $38 for a 1lt bottle and $140 for a 5lt bottle. The benefits include cleaner burning, less smoke, less carbon build up in the exhaust port, muffler and spark screen. It does have a particular odor to it though, machines running on this stuff have quite an acrid smell. Well worth the extra cost.

https://www.stihl.com.au/stihl-hp-ul...ngine-oil.aspx

[janddbone]

I still run castor oil, talk about distinct smell.

[Tonz]

please don't ailinate me, but I've decided to do a major clean on the works John Deere ride on mower. I've got the things that allows hooking a hose to the deck ...
but.....
I guess I should scrap all the accumulated dead grass from under there first.
How does one raise a mower up high enough to see what your doing undrr there, iam not as young and supple as o pretend to be.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tonz

please don't ailinate me, but I've decided to do a major clean on the works John Deere ride on mower. I've got the things that allows hooking a hose to the deck ...
but.....
I guess I should scrap all the accumulated dead grass from under there first.
How does one raise a mower up high enough to see what your doing undrr there, iam not as young and supple as o pretend to be.

You can get specific ride-on pivot lifts -



Car ramps -



Trolley Jack -

[Citroënbender]

Originally Posted by janddbone

I still run castor oil, talk about distinct smell.

Run it in what - a Sopwith Camel?

[Tonz]

trolley jack drrrr why didnt I think of that, it I can afford, plus I have one in my uter all the time.
thankyou

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Firstly, the two linked petrol machines. I don't think you will find much better value than those. But........

-One of my boss's bought something similar a few years ago, build quality was poor and the engine very harsh to use.

-Depending on how fit you are, those machines are very heavy. I have a Stihl Combi power head with the hedge trimmer attachment. It was so heavy and poorly balanced that I dreaded using it. I have issues with my back, so I have sidelined it.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...M-56-RC-E.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...e-Trimmer.aspx

image

I'm currently using the Stihl battery powered HLA 56, I love it as it's way more balanced and I can use it without feeling like crap afterwards. I also have a regular HSA 56.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...Skin-Only.aspx

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...SA-56-Kit.aspx

image

image

image

The HLA 56 is only available as a skin, so you would have to buy the battery and charger as well, putting out of your budget. The HSA 56 is available in both skin and kit form.

For me, I would 100% go for a battery powered hedge trimmer, no question! The way these machines are used often means the engine is banging away at head level, blowing fumes all over your face. They are also heavier and more fatiguing. As for power, unless you are cutting very woody growth like Cupressus, then the battery gear is more than capable. I have never been left wanting for power with the battery hedge trimmers, and that is from a mad keen 2-stroke nut!

Couple of ways to go here -

-Considering you have a large garden, perhaps it would be good to invest in a battery system that will support a range of tools. Either look into the Stihl AK or AL system. Otherwise, the EGO range is powered by the best battery system in the world.

-If that is not appealing, then considering you already have the Ryobi battery system, then look into their range of hedge trimmers -
https://www.ryobi.com.au/garden-tool...hedge-trimmers

I’m still waiting on getting my second HSA56 back from warranty repair (yes, almost a year!)the blame is on “parts”. The dealer called me at one stage saying stihl were querying my commercial use, as these units are more for residential use.
Anyway, my husqvarna hedger was in for warranty, and I went back to the stihl, it was nice to use such a light unit again.

[Citroënbender]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

I’m still waiting on getting my second HSA56 back from warranty repair (yes, almost a year!)the blame is on “parts”. The dealer called me at one stage saying stihl were querying my commercial use, as these units are more for residential use.

Seriously? What a bunch of fools. Even if it is domestically slanted, why not offer you a once-off trade up at a killer price? Instead of pushing a competent professional to be seen using other brands for a good result.

[janddbone]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Run it in what - a Sopwith Camel?

Everything two stroke.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Seriously? What a bunch of fools. Even if it is domestically slanted, why not offer you a once-off trade up at a killer price? Instead of pushing a competent professional to be seen using other brands for a good result.

Originally Posted by danzvtil

I’m still waiting on getting my second HSA56 back from warranty repair (yes, almost a year!)the blame is on “parts”. The dealer called me at one stage saying stihl were querying my commercial use, as these units are more for residential use.
Anyway, my husqvarna hedger was in for warranty, and I went back to the stihl, it was nice to use such a light unit again.

What bullsh.t!

The manager of my Stihl store would have just replaced the unit for me. He understands that trade customers are worth keeping in the fold, **** them off and you can loose a lot of business.

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

What bullsh.t!

The manager of my Stihl store would have just replaced the unit for me. He understands that trade customers are worth keeping in the fold, **** them off and you can loose a lot of business.

A total difference to the mower shop I bought my husqvarna stuff from. The pole chainsaw stopped working, they looked at it straight away, ordered a module, I had it back in a week, took my hand held hedger in, it too stopped working, the shop owner could tell this one was a problem as I use it every day at the moment. He asked if I had something else to use in the mean time (I did), got it looked at, seems I had over greased the gearbox. Had it back in a week, if you have any dramas, bring it straight back.
This is why I’ll go back there to buy my mum her battery mower, even if it costs a couple of hundred bucks more.

[DFB FGXR6]

We sort of discussed this earlier in the thread, dirt cheap machines that offer a lot for the money, the trade off being poor quality.

These two video's feature a Stihl knockoff that has issues after only minutes into it's life.





There is some appeal here with this saw. These are powerful, 72 and 92cc chainsaws that are a fraction of the price of a similar featured Stihl. To put that into dollars, a 72.2 Stihl MS 462 C-M costs $2099 compared to about $370 for a 72 cc NEO-TEC.

A 91.1cc Stihl MS 661 C-M is $2449 compared to a 92cc NEO-TECH at $400.

https://neotecworld.com/collections/shipping-from-au

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...S-462-C-M.aspx

I guess it come down to how tolerant you would be to teething troubles, or having the machine last a short period of time.

[DFB FGXR6]

Have just gone and ordered some maintenance parts for my two Stihl BG 86's. I should probably just buy them from the local dealer, support the local business and all, but I just order online for connivence. In this case, I'm shopping air filters and spark plugs.

In theory, I would just order two of both. Except Stihl changed the air filter and filter box at some stage, meaning there are two different air filters I need to find and order.

The older design is a simple flat foam/felt element that is secured with a plastic retainer and a cam lock housing.





The newer design has a cartridge style filter, which Stihl dub HD2, and a threaded screw on housing. Stihl revised this from the older design as the cam lock arrangement would wear out and fall off.





I managed to find the older filter very easily, but not the newer version. Most vendors want to sell you a service kit consisting of a spark plug, fuel filter, a length of starter rope and the air filter itself.



I just want the filter and not the complimentary piece of string and a crappy no-name spark plug. I'm not paying for a kit that will mostly end up in the bloody bin. Vendors that actually sell a single air filter are offering cheap and nasty pattern parts located in China.

Grrrrhh. Looks like I'll have to go and buy one from a shop then.

[.:4:.]

Today, my whipper snipper gave me another reason to like it. So my old one didnt have a clutch in it. That was fine for me, give it revs and it did the job. My mate would often borrow it and would annoy me greatly with my old one. Id always say rev the guts out of it, but he'd leave it idleing and the line would more or less ask the grass politely if it could please fall down. So what would be 5 minutes reved to the moon would take an hour. So my mate borrowed my current snipper today. It has a clutch in it which forced him to break his habbit. No accelerometer input, no spin, so no cut. Whaddayaknow? The 5 minute job took him all of 5 minutes.
Added bonus my way, because of my mates increased productivity, he did my yard too.

[Rallye Sport]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In theory, I would just order two of both. Except Stihl changed the air filter and filter box at some stage, meaning there are two different air filters I need to find and order.

Had much same experience with a Stihl chainsaw recently. One of the boys lost the oil cap on our 066, not such an issue I thought I'd just grab on from one of the other five saws we had to attend to an urgent job. Alas not one of them are interchangeable. Bugger.

Anyway onto the tree, not the biggest but it would have been nice to do it with the 066, had to settle on a Farmboss.



Normally I'll try to correctively prune them but this one had rotted at a fork and already dropped half of its canopy.



On the ground.



And cut at ground level, Never underestimate the little Farmboss. As you can see the rot had gone all the way through it. Once we get a few more we'll hire a stump grinder. They're an interesting machine to use

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Rallye Sport

Had much same experience with a Stihl chainsaw recently. One of the boys lost the oil cap on our 066, not such an issue I thought I'd just grab on from one of the other five saws we had to attend to an urgent job. Alas not one of them are interchangeable. Bugger.

Anyway onto the tree, not the biggest but it would have been nice to do it with the 066, had to settle on a Farmboss.

image

Normally I'll try to correctively prune them but this one had rotted at a fork and already dropped half of its canopy.

image

On the ground.

image

And cut at ground level, Never underestimate the little Farmboss. As you can see the rot had gone all the way through it. Once we get a few more we'll hire a stump grinder. They're an interesting machine to use

image

The 066 is a Magnum isn't it? Love a good Magnum!

[Rallye Sport]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

The 066 is a Magnum isn't it? Love a good Magnum!

The one and only...
Its loud, overpowered and dangerous. My favourite saw by far
We found an electric, bench mounted sharpener in the mountain of forgotten tools in our shed so its razor sharp too. In all seriousness though it does need to be treated with alot of respect its quite a beast.

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

We sort of discussed this earlier in the thread, dirt cheap machines that offer a lot for the money, the trade off being poor quality.

These two video's feature a Stihl knockoff that has issues after only minutes into it's life.





There is some appeal here with this saw. These are powerful, 72 and 92cc chainsaws that are a fraction of the price of a similar featured Stihl. To put that into dollars, a 72.2 Stihl MS 462 C-M costs $2099 compared to about $370 for a 72 cc NEO-TEC.

A 91.1cc Stihl MS 661 C-M is $2449 compared to a 92cc NEO-TECH at $400.

https://neotecworld.com/collections/shipping-from-au

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...S-462-C-M.aspx

I guess it come down to how tolerant you would be to teething troubles, or having the machine last a short period of time.

I watched this video too, I think she put too much emphasis on being able to repair it. At this price point, you buy it for a single job (the same price as renting one), if it stops, you take it back for replacement or refund. If you get a second run out of it, you are in front.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

My point has been made now!!

image

image

I know this is petty, but I don't take fools gladly. It's also screwing with my head because I just want to cut it!

I spotted the guy with a cheap battery line trimmer cutting this strip of grass the other day. Made me smile.

[danzvtil]

Why do weirdos insist on catching over grown grass, we’re at max growth stage for grass and weeds in Adelaide, almost daily I see someone in knee high grass mowing, next to a green waste bin that will be full in 6 meters of mowing.
I whippered about 500sqm of CHEST height weeds today, the elderly lady was adamant that the clippings had to be raked up and disposed of, I’m like yep, you can get someone else to do that for you.

[mad2]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

Why do weirdos insist on catching over grown grass, we’re at max growth stage for grass and weeds in Adelaide, almost daily I see someone in knee high grass mowing, next to a green waste bin that will be full in 6 meters of mowing.
I whippered about 500sqm of CHEST height weeds today, the elderly lady was adamant that the clippings had to be raked up and disposed of, I’m like yep, you can get someone else to do that for you.

and why do people insist on blowing their grass cuttings ALL over the place ie gutters, road, other peoples property etc etc after mowing? [and yes i had a go at a neighbour ages ago when he mowed the neighbours front lawn next to us & left grass everywhere]. and i mowed not last weekend but the previous . . . . ..... and i will have to mow this ....... wet weekend - damn grass ...... think i need some green concrete

[Citroënbender]

I like to bin/bag my clippings, irrespective of the amount. It’s part of the gratification. (Call me a weirdo if you like.)

…And thanks to you, I now have a Radiohead earworm. I wish I was special!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

Why do weirdos insist on catching over grown grass, we’re at max growth stage for grass and weeds in Adelaide, almost daily I see someone in knee high grass mowing, next to a green waste bin that will be full in 6 meters of mowing.
I whippered about 500sqm of CHEST height weeds today, the elderly lady was adamant that the clippings had to be raked up and disposed of, I’m like yep, you can get someone else to do that for you.

If said lady didn't want a mess left behind, then perhaps she should call you in a little more often so that the cutting is neater. Otherwise, the price is the normal charge plus time taken to do the raking at your normal hourly rate. For example, a base $50 cut would likely end up costing her $90 to $100. I'm guessing she would then choose the former and not have the grass raked.

The industry really needs to stop catering to the "let it grow as high as possible, then want it cut for the same price as a regular" crowd.

I have a client that I have decided to let go from now on. She only calls me in when it's above ankle height, so a 15 minute job that I quoted for turns into a 45 minute job that I don't make any money from.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by mad2

and why do people insist on blowing their grass cuttings ALL over the place ie gutters, road, other peoples property etc etc after mowing? [and yes i had a go at a neighbour ages ago when he mowed the neighbours front lawn next to us & left grass everywhere]. and i mowed not last weekend but the previous . . . . ..... and i will have to mow this ....... wet weekend - damn grass ...... think i need some green concrete

As a profession, that is completely lazy and poor technique.

As a neighbor or someone just mowing their own lawn, this is inconsiderate laziness.

In both cases, this is inefficient work. You should always trim the edges first, then blow all the clippings and other debris back off the paths and gutter onto the lawn. Then the lawn mower sucks it all up and, in some cases, you may not even need to get the blower out afterwards.

[LG17]

I mow with my ride on (Husky YTD2246) then I raise the blades at the end and run over the clippings to spread them right across the "lawn".

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

If said lady didn't want a mess left behind, then perhaps she should call you in a little more often so that the cutting is neater. Otherwise, the price is the normal charge plus time taken to do the raking at your normal hourly rate. For example, a base $50 cut would likely end up costing her $90 to $100. I'm guessing she would then choose the former and not have the grass raked.

The industry really needs to stop catering to the "let it grow as high as possible, then want it cut for the same price as a regular" crowd.

I have a client that I have decided to let go from now on. She only calls me in when it's above ankle height, so a 15 minute job that I quoted for turns into a 45 minute job that I don't make any money from.

The silly thing is for this old lady, it’s not a lawn, it’s just an old market garden block that she can no longer afford to maintain or get to from her house.

I’m quite strict on regular pricing vs casual pricing vs hugely overgrown pricing, there’s no cheap cut for a knock down job, it’s too hard on the machinery and body.

And for future reference, my huski 322l at constant WOT will drain a tank in 50mins, I did that 3 and a half times for this old lady.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

The silly thing is for this old lady, it’s not a lawn, it’s just an old market garden block that she can no longer afford to maintain or get to from her house.

I’m quite strict on regular pricing vs casual pricing vs hugely overgrown pricing, there’s no cheap cut for a knock down job, it’s too hard on the machinery and body.

And for future reference, my huski 322l at constant WOT will drain a tank in 50mins, I did that 3 and a half times for this old lady.

A 322L fuel tank is 500ml.

3.5 x 0.5 = 1.75lt

1.75lt x $2.05 (av. fuel price) = $3.60 + oil in fuel, so lets just guess and say $4.50 overall.

$4.50 + mower fuel + travel expenses + travel time + maintenance levy on equipment all get deducted from the price charged. And that's all before you consider tax's, insurances ect is taken into account. I love how some people think that just because you charge them a certain amount that all of that lands in your pocket.


Speaking of the Husqvarna 322L, how are you finding it? I remember you were having issues adjusting to the straight shaft.