Common Problems with the AU??

[Bucknaked]

May as well add my stuff too.

A couple of things.

Body Kit required replacing due to lack of sexiness
Rims needed replacing twice, as they were too small at the time. :

Seriously, IRS rear Shock Mounts replaced around 45,000. Both sides replaced.
At about 50,000 k's the water Jacket on the top of the engine (Where the top Radiator hose connects to the engine) needed a new seal.
Premium Brake Rotors and pads front only replaced at 58,000.
And today at 64,300 klm, Steering Rack was replaced. I have oil stains now on the garage floor. :

I've ben advised left hand ball joint needs replacing and I also need to replace front bushes. Also need a camber kit. these I hope to do before we go away at Christmas. I will need to replace the sunroof switch as she opens fully, but refuses to close. Theres a routine for ensure the roof closes. Yes, swearing is involved.

But the major thing done today. Overall, car has given me very little grief

[loxxr6]

Cracked Firewall and possibly the pedal box (only affects manual transmission vehicles apparently). This causes water to drip in when it rains. Luckily it's going to be fixed pretty cheaply,all things considered. It makes driving the car a real as the clutch doesn't always engage properly....

New Update, I had the Head light, Cruise control brake light thing fixed Thanks siksix , but maybe the auto electician saw me comming but he charged me $140.00 for a new rear tail light assembly, at least he did pick the car up and drop it back at my house. (great now he knows where I live). I have the car booked in for service on the transmission it lookes like its going to cost me $350 for a new solenoid as i was told that the old one keeps the transmission fluid on high pressure which causes the car to change gears very ruffly. and also on friday i'm getting the car serviced for the ruff idle.

[Discotheque]

I got a 1999 Ford Futura. Done 155,000km's
Had it for nearly a year now.

Hardly any problems other than a really ruff idle.. sometimes a misfire.
The engine is running really rich on petrol but doesn't guzzle it.. and I'm using optimax and jet cleaner every fill.

One problem. Was at the local shops and went back to my car and the engine wouldn't turn over. Just get a click and the alarm light starts flashing fast.
Stuffed around for half an hour and got my spare key that I only recently got cut, stuck that it and away it went.
Worn out key. The car wouldn't detect it being the original key since it's so worn down.

[SIKSIX]

Hi ,there manual owners i got the {water leaks on my feet} problem and i dont know what to look for and how to fix it as im not too bad with a welder and, or where to get it fixed if its too hard. Also does anyone know a place where i can get it fixed in the northern suburbs of melbourne.

[stiddy]

its a pain in the *** mate..
half the dash has to come out, sometimes the hole thing, and along the sides of the pedal box it will be cracked.. get your welder and do the biggest baddest welds on it to seal it up and pray that it dosent crack again.. but it will..
the metal is too thin on the firewall, it flexes and eventually cracks, your better off welding in a metal plate.....
not sure on anyone in your area that could do it.. sorry..

[SIKSIX]

thanks ill maybe try it one day if im really bored or it gets worse than a leak...

Have just had the rear rotors replaced on my AUI XR8 and there is a squeak from the rear drivers side. However, the squeak disappears when breaking. Have been told that it is most likely the handbrake? My mechanic has loosened it off but still squeaks. Putting the car back in on Monday for him to have another go as he has contacted Ford and they said to shave off part of the horseshoe brake pad.

Anyone had a similar problem?

Dave

[Autocade]

747 FLI
I also have similar Handbrake noise problem
I have found from reading through Forums and talking to various Ford and Ford Service Department people that some IRS AU and even BA Handbrakes have an issue where they get stuck on resulting in a constant metal to metal sound
Mine has been like this since about 15000 ks when I first noticed
after first service
It has been in since for repairs approx 6 times over 4 years
It stops for a little while and starts again after about 1000 Ks
To date the rear rotors have been replaced once also replaced 2 sets of clips and 2 sets of handbrake shoes and i think a cable and still not fixed
I am learning to live with it now by turning up the volume or the air conditioner.
With my luck they will probably find a fix for it just before I sell it

Thanks Autocade,

I had the car in again yesterday but yet again they couldn't fix it. I have since spoken to my bosses husband who is a mechanic for a local council here on the coast and we may just have it solved. He got me to do a test to narrow down the problem. What he got me to do was to take off with the handbrake on so that it was just making contact. He said if the squeak did not go away then it wasn't the handbrake. He asked if the new pads were the "good gear" and yes, I had top of the range Bendix fitted (not up with the specifics). He said if the squeak dissappeared when the brakes were applied then it was definately the brake pads. Due to different compounds in the pads, if I downgrade the pads to standards that should eliminate the squeak. If this works I shall advise so that we are all in the know. :

Cheers,

Dave - 747FLI

[f6 typhoon]

hi everyone i have a 2001 au falcon forte i have had this car for 12 months now and the rear doors play up they use to unlock but not lock but now i have a big drama the back doors won't lock or open what is the problem and how much would it cost to fix
thanks

[Cespenar]

Hi all, and thanks for the information on the forums. This is my second ford. The first was a 1978 TD Cortina. Almost a thirty year break.
My daughter asked if I'd hit my head (I would only ever own a white commodore) Well, this is a nice car! Traction control stops me from gassing it, but removal could help. Gave daughter VN Calais after I had it 10 years. Bought cheap Audi in June. NO AUDI IS CHEAP! Lookin good with Ghia! Does anybody have a power and Torque graph for the 168KW engine please. I love techie stuff. The LED globes for the information console are not available in Dubbo. So I would love some SYDNEY info to buy same.
Regards to all.

[loxxr6]

Hi ,there manual owners i got the {water leaks on my feet} problem and i dont know what to look for and how to fix it as im not too bad with a welder and, or where to get it fixed if its too hard. Also does anyone know a place where i can get it fixed in the northern suburbs of melbourne.

Call Mark @ ITS Performance. You can get his details if you do a search in the Inline 6 forums on Fordmods. Yeah he's in NSW but he can give you a run down of how to fix it PLUS he's meant to be selling reinforced brackets to stop further cracking in the firewall. I prob have his details somewhere if you want to PM me.

[JoesAu]

yeah i have the same bloody squeak its embarrassing. i drive with the brakes on its shi##s me bad. I was speaking to a mechanic at ford and he said buy original brake pads from ford and it should solve the problem of the squeaking. Ive loosened the hand brake, drivin with the hand brake on nothing works.

[Whoosha]

Just finished monthly detail inside + out, whilst doing engine bay ( V8 XR ) noticed the bracket that supports air con. hose + eng. cover just above power steering reservior had brocken off at the bolt which inturn has rubbed a hole in air con. line just shy of puncturing it .Probable two more weeks of vibration would have been the end of it + the gas.. also rubbing where it crosses over the fuel lines zippy that back up all good now. just some thing else to keep a eye on........ regards Whoosha

JoseAU,

Have been doing a little more research into it. Does the squeak disappear when you apply the footbrake? And, does the squeak stay when you drive with it on? And, have you had new brake pads fitted lately, if so what type...your Ford bloke may have the answer for you as this is similar advice to what I received from someone who is a local government mechanic and who is not being paid, so to speak!

And yes, the squeak is embarresing and a MAJOR #$%off.

Dave

[AU_Wagin]

II Fairmont Wagon V8 Tickford Suspension HM Headers and exhaust, Yella Roller Rockers - Ford will not cover exhaust Mods, but will cover engine even with R/Rockers fitted by Mik Webb - thats got to be good


35 kms: First problem I6 decal on left front, V8 decal on right fixed U/W

29,000 Radiator leaking fixed U/W

59,000 Front Rt wheel bearing fixed U/W

61,000 Radiator replaced U/W and fuel sendor replaced

65,000 Climate Control display Replaced missing segments Fixed U/W

69,000 Drivers Seat right hand side steel framwork poked thru the fabric U/W

72,000 Purchased extended Warranty ( 165,000 ) or 5 Years - $860 best thing I ever did

80,000 theromstat recall - hole drilled ( suppose to stop the radiator problems I was told ) Fuel sensor replaced again

83,000 Driver seat removed and had to be totally reupholsted, frame poked thru right hand back again, and lower cushin sagged - and I am only 88 Kgs too

91,000 Front Right wheel bearing noisy - fixed U/W

92,000 Rear Transmission Seal Fixed U/W

107,000 Pinion Seal leaking Fixed U/W Fuel guage sender replaced again U/W

109,000 Blown left parking globe, and right main headlight globe - fixed under extended warranty Thought I would have to pay for this !

110,000 Steering rack re-call weld to bolts/nuts ? U/W

111,000 left rear shock leaking - both replaced under Ext/W

121, 000 steering rack leaking - replaced U Ext/W battery one dead cell, I had to pay

123,000 sterring column replaced Knocking Ext /W

146,000 Fuel sender replaced again Ext/W

147,000 Knock in front - turning under low speed and front right full lock TBA

149,000 Bad ticking noise from behind left head lamp - documented problem comes and goes, I sorta put up with it

So, not too bad really, wagon is running fabo, and I love it, and was glad I had the extended warranty from Strapp Ford, - steering rack failure paid for it in one go. Change oil and filter every 7,500 K - have to get front alignment every 10,000 or there go the tyres again - wear and tear items front pads at 55,000, 90,000 and 142,000, rears at 90,000. Spark plugs - I wouldnt go 115,000 again, they were really stuffed - I think 90,000 would be the limit and left rear plug lead keeps falling off

Ray

http://www.aufalcon.com/AUWagin.htm

http://www.awcinfo.com/secureshop/c...d=28&scat_id=56




justed turned over 184000 today, this car is goin glike a rocket - things have settled and it just keeps going better than ever

[12]

AU_Wagin, the second last issue sounds like lower control arm ball joints. Something that was a common issue on AU1's. They changed the the grade of grease for AU2 onwards. Last issue is most likely the purge valve solenoid. Again a common issue on all AU's. I would have both issues fixed under warranty, specially the solenoid, RRP of nearly $150 just for the solenoid.. as it comes with all the hoses attatched aswell.

[AU_Wagin]

Thanks for that, its going in this week for in between oil and filter - so will see what they say

[12]

Originally Posted by AU_Wagin

Thanks for that, its going in this week for in between oil and filter - so will see what they say

Oh sorry.. I meant to say upper control arm ball joints. The balls down the bottom are fine.

[AUGASWAGON02]

Hi all,

I just purchased a 2002 AU Forte wagon on gas done 107,000kms, i took it to my local midas for a service and to see if there was anything wrong with it. Midas found that the steering rack needs replacing, this was not noted in the original roadworthy check and when taken back the tester says its fine. Should i get a third party to check it to see whos pulling my chain and with a second hand car warranty the grey area is the part is still working and safe (thus roadworthy) but for how long, Midas quoted nearly $700 to replace it. Is this a common fault with this car at this age? and do i have any course of action with regards to getting the thing fixed under the warranty?

[FOON]

Firstly, great thread guys - keep it up.

The problem with our AU1 is that the two warning lights for "over temp" and "empty fuel" light up when you turn the headlights/parkers on.

The temp guage needle is sitting just where it always has and fuel needle shows half full - these are working fine.

Has anyone had this problem? Do you know how to fix it?

Thanks.

[Bundy]

Originally Posted by 747FLI

Have just had the rear rotors replaced on my AUI XR8 and there is a squeak from the rear drivers side. However, the squeak disappears when breaking. Have been told that it is most likely the handbrake? My mechanic has loosened it off but still squeaks. Putting the car back in on Monday for him to have another go as he has contacted Ford and they said to shave off part of the horseshoe brake pad.

Anyone had a similar problem?

Dave

My Au1 XR8 ute does it too only on the drivers side rear wheel, I've replaced the disc with DBA slotted all round and new pads too june last year. Its due to the handbrake shoes not centralising themselves correctly once you release the handbrake and it doesn't matter if you've got a tight or loose adjustment on the cable. There is a pivot end and a fixed end, the fixed end is the shonkly bit that doesn't hold the handbrake shoe in correctly.

Had it to a couple of ford dealers, midas and a local mechanic for it to be fixed. The last ford place said it was a desgin flaw from new and the guys that orginally desgined it actually won an award for it (probably cause they new that they make extra money from it), anyway they said it would never be able to be correctly fixed.

The local bloke (just recently) had a go and said it was important not to move the vehicle whislt the handbrake was on and make sure it was released full before moving. he did play with the bracket on the fixed end and did some slight grinding, this stoped the noise but only for a couple of days and I haven't been back to see him yet if there is anything else worth trying.

[Sylox]

Originally Posted by bundybloke

My Au1 XR8 ute does it too only on the drivers side rear wheel, I've replaced the disc with DBA slotted all round and new pads too june last year. Its due to the handbrake shoes not centralising themselves correctly once you release the handbrake and it doesn't matter if you've got a tight or loose adjustment on the cable. There is a pivot end and a fixed end, the fixed end is the shonkly bit that doesn't hold the handbrake shoe in correctly.

Had it to a couple of ford dealers, midas and a local mechanic for it to be fixed. The last ford place said it was a desgin flaw from new and the guys that orginally desgined it actually won an award for it (probably cause they new that they make extra money from it), anyway they said it would never be able to be correctly fixed.

The local bloke (just recently) had a go and said it was important not to move the vehicle whislt the handbrake was on and make sure it was released full before moving. he did play with the bracket on the fixed end and did some slight grinding, this stoped the noise but only for a couple of days and I haven't been back to see him yet if there is anything else worth trying.

We've tried everything on my sled as well Bundy same deal here, fix only lasts a few weeks. Its pretty well if you got it deal with it situation on the Au utes.

[Bundy]

I noticed Ba running around town the last few days and its doing the same thing as well - Drivers side rear and all. I doubt very much if its even come close to new rotors and pads.

Lucky I've got the subs thumpin : so as to distract from the uncool sounds of handbrake squeal

[Voodoo65]

AUIII XR8 Rough Idle
101000 kms
- Injector Cleaner $7.50
- Reset EEC $0.00

Smoothed out the idle a lot.

[Smudge]

I've had my AU 1 XR8 for about 3 months, or just under 4,000km's now. It's got 131,000km on it. I've had a dream run so far very happy:

Minor Service @ 130,000km and to help resolve oil pressure loss at idle.
Brake sensor switch replaced same day.
$250ish

Back next day with same oil pressure problem. Dealer replaced oil pressure switch U/W. No more oil pressure loss at idle.

My dealer was pretty good too, except their idea of a wash left more marks than the car went in with.

Cheers,

Smudge

[sirhal]

Originally Posted by 747FLI

Have just had the rear rotors replaced on my AUI XR8 and there is a squeak from the rear drivers side. However, the squeak disappears when breaking. Have been told that it is most likely the handbrake? My mechanic has loosened it off but still squeaks. Putting the car back in on Monday for him to have another go as he has contacted Ford and they said to shave off part of the horseshoe brake pad.

Anyone had a similar problem?

Dave

Hi

I too have those annoying and embarrassing squeaky brakes!! : But mine comes on during braking!
I was lazy one year and took my car to Midas to get the pads done. $650 later and I had squeaky rear brakes!! I took it back and they told my they were just settling in (they did calliper refurb (told me they were seized), new rear rotors and pads and front machining and pads)..
Nope.. squeaks like a ИИИИИИ! They also told me that my master cylinder was on the way out and I would need to replace it (this via phone call on the day the car was in. "How much" I said. "bout $500" they said. "Umm… no.." I retorted). I then received a letter in the mail just under 1 year later telling me it was under a 1 year warranty and that I should go down and get it checked. After taking the letter out of the bin I thought I might see if they will fix my squeaky brakes. They did not even take the car for a spin when they did the check. I told them they were squeaky etc but they didn't care. Just told me that I had a screw in the front tyre and my muffler was on its way out and they had one in stock and they could easily replace it for me for $180. So I got the tyre fixed ($20) and have not been back since.
I have had the *** of my car apart 4 times and still cannot find nor fix the problem. The reason I have joined this forum is because it's now a lot louder than before. Holding the hand brake up does quieten it down. Also turning to the right gives it another pitch of squeal. Are my bearings gone??
I also have front brake problems too. I recently replaced the front discs cause there was a wabble (2nd time) and machining was too exy. Bout 3 weeks later, the wabble returned. I am not sure if the discs are warped (I drove to Sydney from Brisbane with the new discs) or not. Perhaps the callipers are sticking when sliding? Not sure. I have thought about replacing the entire lot with a BA set ( I heard you could do this??) but am not sure if the cost warrants it.
Other problems with my car since I bought it (2001/56000kms)

• slight rough idle? had something similar once before and changed the spark plug leads. Seemed to fix it. I might need to do it again.
• broken radiator overflow tank (bought new one)
• replaced front discs twice (cause of wobbles)
• dash climate control ( going to send it to that guy in Melbourne when it cools down a bit
• multiple dashboard bulbs (how do I fix this with Blue LEDS? What about dimming?)
• windows sticking (had this repaired once under warranty. Not only do you need to spray it with the silicon spray, but get something like a screwdriver and carefully shove the rubber back into the groove. After time it comes out and grabs the window)
• had the gear box slip a couple of times from 1st to 2nd during a speedy session (should I check the fluid? Ford manual *cough* says it never needs to be touched)
• brake switch replaced/repaired 3 times (replaced twice under warranty. Last time I fixed it myself)
• rear passenger door lock broke 3 times (once under warranty, once a magic super glue fix, but then a wreckers replacement)
• headlight switch knob broke. filled it up with liquid steel (nice.. )
• rev counter sometimes jumps up when idle (no fix)
• sometimes on a really hot day, when you have driven a while and you stop the car, then get in and start it again after under 30 mins, the overheat alarm goes off and the needle goes all the way up. It then drops back down. I ALWAYS turn the car off, wait a minute and then go again and all is good. (no fix)
• Steering rack re-call weld to bolts/nuts
• paint/cover/foam from the driver side inside door handle warn off (yellow now) (no fix)
• steering wheel foam warn away on right side (no fix and I am not going to pay $500+ for a new steering wheel!)
• button 5 on my stereo is intermittent
• alternator crapped out (replaced at local auto electrician $100)
• lots of rear brake bulb and headlight bulb replacements a while back. But (touch wood) I haven't had one in a little while (bad bulb batch?) (could have been related to my alternator problem
• recently getting car static/noise through stereo (I will probably put a noise filter in it, but just wonder why it came on all of a sudden?)

Other than that it’s all good. And these are really minor issues. I love my AU!! I often drive to Sydney with it and it is a dream to dive. And great fuel economy!! With the trip computer telling me how much I have left to go, I get about 850km out of a tank. One day I might lower it and get some nice mags, but until then…


Ty

: Have spoken with Paul Davis the owner of Widowmaker Race Engines in Caloundra on the Sunshine Coast and he is quite sure that my squeak results from the new rear rotors being warped from new as he has had a few duds come into his possession which he has had to have replaced by the supplier. The squeak never happened with the old rotors so we are going to take the new ones off and stick them on a lathe (spelling?) to see if they are in fact stuffed. If so, I might just have the problem solved. Will advise further if this is the case.

Dave

[FPV8U]

OK guys noticed today that Mums AUII XR8's speedo was jumping when being accelerated, is this a common problem and what is the fix?

Thanks alot guys