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23-10-2017, 03:02 PM | #151 | ||
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Wangaratta
Posts: 33
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Thanks for that. Planning on changing to ba 303mm caliper and rotor
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23-10-2017, 03:09 PM | #152 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Wangaratta
Posts: 33
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so territory is 328mm ventilated and twin piston and also bolts up to standard lines with spacers? That sounds like an even better option
cheers |
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23-10-2017, 03:10 PM | #153 | ||||
#neuteredlyfe
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 10,650
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Quote:
Quote:
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23-10-2017, 03:15 PM | #154 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 780
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Quote:
Will need the 3mm spacer (I actually used a 3mm wheel spacer behind rotor to clear wide wheels, but recommend you use the 3mm washers on caliper mount) |
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23-10-2017, 03:19 PM | #155 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Wangaratta
Posts: 33
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Thanks guys for all your help. Im lucky enough to have a mechanic for a mate whos going to help me/show me how to do the front and rear conversion but want to make sure i have everything i need first
Thanks again |
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23-10-2017, 03:21 PM | #156 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 780
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...I also drilled out a hole for that grub screw, as Territory/BFGT rotors done have one. Also watch AM toe-link balljoint as the AM ones are fatter than OEM and come awful close to rotor. I just knocked off 1-2mm off the balljoint casting on the grinder, its only casting daggy bits anyway.
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23-10-2017, 03:30 PM | #157 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,756
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Post #30 tries to explain the lines.
https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11377772 I did the same with my aftermarket toe-link end tkfd. So far, they haven't failed! |
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23-10-2017, 03:42 PM | #158 | ||
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Wangaratta
Posts: 33
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Is the grub screw actually needed? Wont the studs and wheel nuts locate the disc anyway? What have you guys done in regards to the dust cover? Im thinking of just completely removing it?
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23-10-2017, 03:49 PM | #159 | |||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,756
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Quote:
If you mean the rubber grommet that covers the adjuster, I used BA ones (on the right in this picture. |
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23-10-2017, 03:54 PM | #160 | ||
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Location: Wangaratta
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What is the rubber grommet for? This is the first time ive heard of it
cheers |
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23-10-2017, 03:58 PM | #161 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
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The hole in the rotor for handbrake adjustment isn't covered by the wheel so a grommet seems like a good idea.
You can see it in this pic. |
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23-10-2017, 04:08 PM | #162 | ||
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Location: Wangaratta
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Thankyou, makes perfect sense now
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23-10-2017, 04:37 PM | #163 | ||
316,500km
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Island where things go round.
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Silver', Do not think they're referring to the Handbrake hole but the tapered one that alines the Disk to the Hub.
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23-10-2017, 04:41 PM | #164 | ||
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Wangaratta
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I was referring to the locating hole on the disc as my understanding is that its really not needed as the studs, wheels and nuts locate the disc anyway but it was good to find out the info on the rubber grommet for the handbrake hole.
Thanks again for all the info |
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23-10-2017, 04:46 PM | #165 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 780
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Quote:
yea gotta remove the dust cover, a lot of swearing will happen as its fiddly, The grub screw isn't really needed, but I think why they put it there is for when you adjust the park brake. You cant do with wheel on. The rotor needs to stay square. Guess you could nip up all the wheel nuts. I put the grub screw in. |
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25-10-2017, 12:25 AM | #166 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
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My 328mm rotors didn’t have any provision for the grub screw. I’d use it if it was there.
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06-11-2017, 07:06 PM | #167 | ||
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Wangaratta
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So guys I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or I have some wrong parts. I've got the lower control arm and upright assembly as one piece on my garage floor and loosely looking at how the ba carrier and caliper bolt onto the upright and it's just dosnt look like it will fit. The bottom ba bolt might but the top bolt looks to short to fit on the au 3 upright and even if it did it looks like it's too far in towards the body for it to go over the disc. Am I supposed to be using the au3 bolts on the au 3 upright with the au3 carrier and then attach the ba caliper to the au3 carrier? A little confused now, any advice on what I'm doing wrong?
Cheers |
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06-11-2017, 07:17 PM | #168 | |||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
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Quote:
UK
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Plastic Surgery 1 AUII Monsoon Blue How 2's: Change rear view mirror, Install backfire valve, Change foam front seats, Install auto transmission cooler, Replace Trans Shift Globe, Remove front door Trim, Paint AU headlights, install door spears, Premium Rear Parcel Shelf, go here...
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06-11-2017, 07:29 PM | #169 | ||
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Trying to work out how I can attach pictures mate and that's a struggle atm too.
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06-11-2017, 07:32 PM | #170 | ||
Miami Pilot
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Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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When you quote a post to reply, there is a box below the message box called Additional Options. One of these is manage attachments - click this and then browse to the pic on your PC, and upload it/them.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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06-11-2017, 07:35 PM | #171 | ||
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06-11-2017, 08:09 PM | #172 | ||
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Struggling to upload pics from my iPhone. I'm thinking maybe the wreckers gave me the wrong lower arms and uprights maybe. On the passenger/left side with the curve of the lower control arm facing forward and stamped LH the caliper position is still facing the rear as per my current series 1 where it should now be forward as per series 3?
Cheers Last edited by auxlr8; 06-11-2017 at 08:38 PM. Reason: More details |
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06-11-2017, 08:58 PM | #173 | ||
Shockwave
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seaford SA
Posts: 783
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Sound like the wrong upright, should definitely be mounted on the front of the axle line.
This is mine part way through the conversion, the suspension changed over, but the old caliper still hanging there - drivers side. Cheers, |
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06-11-2017, 09:07 PM | #174 | ||
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Yep, thankyou for that photo, it does appear they have given me the wrong upright and lower arm assembly. No wonder why I couldn't quite work it out. Thanks heaps. I'll go back Wednesday after cup day to get the right parts. Should my ba carriers and calipers use ba carrier bolts or should I be using au2/3 bolts?
Cheers |
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06-11-2017, 10:07 PM | #175 | ||
Miami Pilot
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Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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These are the pics of the parts auxlr8 was supplied with:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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06-11-2017, 10:10 PM | #176 | ||
Miami Pilot
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Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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Are they AU1 spindles with AU2/3 sway bar bits? Or could they be the spindles for premium brakes?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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06-11-2017, 10:17 PM | #177 | ||
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Location: Wangaratta
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When I went to the wreckers I asked for au 3 lower arms with hubs and spindles, uprights and au3 sway bar and mounts. It's taken a month for them to have the time to get it all together and it now looks like they have accidentally given me au3 sway bar, mounts and links but with au 1 lower control arms and uprights.
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06-11-2017, 10:41 PM | #178 | ||
Shockwave
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seaford SA
Posts: 783
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The uprights aren't just on the wrong bottom arms are they?
Has the bottom balljoint been disconnected? If so, just swap over the uprights and see if they look right, just that they look correct from my recollection. For example, the ABS sensor is in the correct position, they are on the front side of the series I stubs... Cheers. |
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06-11-2017, 10:46 PM | #179 | ||
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Nah it was removed as one piece with the lower arms and uprights still connected without the ball joint broken and still connected. I'm thinking they have just given me series 1 lower arms and uprights with a series 3 sway bar and mounts?
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08-11-2017, 05:44 PM | #180 | ||
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So I went to back to the wreckers today with all my parts and begin to have a crack that they gave me the wrong parts.... luckily before I opened my mouth the owner took me to the donor car.... indeed a series 3 au. An xr6 that for some reason had sseries 1 uprights on it which then led me to believe it had the premium brake combination that indeed used series 1 uprights on a series 3. Would anyone know if this premium option that used series 1 uprights were twin piston caliper and what sized discs? I've got the wreckers now looking for those original calipers in case they are twin piston and may bolt straight onto my au1 Fairmont ghia.... bit of a long shot but maybe?
Cheers |
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