Mowing ..

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

So my mate, not my inept mate who is a retard with power tools, asked me a few days about borrowing my chainsaw. I also have a pole saw. So nothing more then a refresher, as in chainsaw takes 6 primes and has a 3 stage choke, pole saw takes 10 primes and has a 2 stage choke. Simples. This mate knows, hit the dirt chain is pretty well stuffed. If its flapping about, chain needs tensioning. If it friction burns through stuff, again chains stuffed. I do always have a spare chain.

Never, ever lend a chainsaw.

I would rather give the person the money to go and rent one rather than screw up mine........because that will be what YOU spend to get the thing fixed.

I will soon have my old 009L up as a loaner, no one is going to lay a finger on my new one.

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Never, ever lend a chainsaw.

I would rather give the person the money to go and rent one rather than screw up mine........because that will be what YOU spend to get the thing fixed.

I will soon have my old 009L up as a loaner, no one is going to lay a finger on my new one.

This was my mate who is mechanically minded. And has ears. So listens. So i was giving a hand as in supervising, but no dirt drops or anything. Roped the tall stuff and i just directed the fall. Yes it was my equipment, but my mate used it in the propper fashion. Chainsaw has a chain brake, so when he finished a cut chain brake on. Polesaw doesnt have a chain brake so flicked the switch after a cut. Proper use, no abuse. The end game was to help his mum out. I have no issue helping her out. My mates 32 and still lives at home, so thats why i lend stuff but make him do the work.

[hayseed]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Never, ever lend a chainsaw.

.

Or Your Wife..!! they Both come back.. f#@%&

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

This was my mate who is mechanically minded. And has ears. So listens. So i was giving a hand as in supervising, but no dirt drops or anything. Roped the tall stuff and i just directed the fall. Yes it was my equipment, but my mate used it in the propper fashion. Chainsaw has a chain brake, so when he finished a cut chain brake on. Polesaw doesnt have a chain brake so flicked the switch after a cut. Proper use, no abuse. The end game was to help his mum out. I have no issue helping her out. My mates 32 and still lives at home, so thats why i lend stuff but make him do the work.

All good mate, just had enough experiences lending tools to people who don't respect them like I would.

(This is not directed at you .:4:., just my observations with how chainsaws should be treated, and why it's always a big gamble lending one.)

Chainsaws are a tool that need to be absolutely perfect to work properly. Chain sharpness, chain tension, bar condition, oil quality and oil delivery all must be in top condition to cut safely and efficiently.

Then the user needs to be in sync with the machine. Keeping the machine spinning rather than forcing the saw, using the chain brake properly without burning it up, being conscious of where the bar is in relation to the ground, knowing when to stop when something is not right rather than forcing the machine to do something it can't, maintaining a safe grounding and not overextending your body and creating an unsafe situation.

These are not toys, they are a deadly serious tool that need to be maintained and treated with respect and care. This is why when old mate borrows your saw and doesn't follow the basics, it will be returned buggered up.

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

All good mate, just had enough experiences lending tools to people who don't respect them like I would.

(This is not directed at you .:4:., just my observations with how chainsaws should be treated, and why it's always a big gamble lending one.)

Chainsaws are a tool that need to be absolutely perfect to work properly. Chain sharpness, chain tension, bar condition, oil quality and oil delivery all must be in top condition to cut safely and efficiently.

Then the user needs to be in sync with the machine. Keeping the machine spinning rather than forcing the saw, using the chain brake properly without burning it up, being conscious of where the bar is in relation to the ground, knowing when to stop when something is not right rather than forcing the machine to do something it can't, maintaining a safe grounding and not overextending your body and creating an unsafe situation.

These are not toys, they are a deadly serious tool that need to be maintained and treated with respect and care. This is why when old mate borrows your saw and doesn't follow the basics, it will be returned buggered up.

100% on proper maintenance. Pre run, check the bar lube , chain and chain tension, top up the fuel etc. During use periodically check chain tension. In my saws case its 4-6mm chain slap, any more re tension. Most new chains stretch a little in the first few uses so you have to be on it about that.
But yeah, standard issue safety, the obvious 1st is only the user within distance of cutting faces off, chain brake on after every cut. If its being put down for more then say a few seconds turn it off. When it comes to ropes and directing the fall, i have a 15m rope, so long enough to have something fall well away from whoever is on the end of the rope, and common sense, the person making the cut doesnt stand in the direction of the fall.

[Tassie f100]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

100% on proper maintenance. Pre run, check the bar lube , chain and chain tension, top up the fuel etc. During use periodically check chain tension. In my saws case its 4-6mm chain slap, any more re tension. Most new chains stretch a little in the first few uses so you have to be on it about that.
But yeah, standard issue safety, the obvious 1st is only the user within distance of cutting faces off, chain brake on after every cut. If its being put down for more then say a few seconds turn it off. When it comes to ropes and directing the fall, i have a 15m rope, so long enough to have something fall well away from whoever is on the end of the rope, and common sense, the person making the cut doesnt stand in the direction of the fall.

I reckon after using chainsaws for 50+ years I probably wouldn’t be able to pass the registered operator test.Never use the chain brake,only turn the egine off if not using for a fair time,like lunch or loading. As an aslde why use the chainbrake?

[.:4:.]

Now im sort of just ranting. But this covers a whole range. From hand tools to power tools. You need to know how much gusto to use to let the tool do the work. So, regardless, not enough, the tool doesnt do much, you dont damage it depending on what it is. Too much, like say a holesaw on a drill, or a chainsaw. Your holesaw will overheat and go blunt and your drill will overheat. Same with a chainsaw. Chain will overheat and go blunt and chainsaw gets hot. If you just get it right, let the tool do the work, you get much faster results.
So im from an electrical background. I know how to use drills and stuff. Get an apprentice and tell them dont go in too hard? They listen but think leaning on the thing will do the job faster as they are trying to impress, but no, they smoke the holesaw and the drill needs a 5 minute break to cool down. So thats an example of not letting the tool do its job.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

Now im sort of just ranting. But this covers a whole range. From hand tools to power tools. You need to know how much gusto to use to let the tool do the work. So, regardless, not enough, the tool doesnt do much, you dont damage it depending on what it is. Too much, like say a holesaw on a drill, or a chainsaw. Your holesaw will overheat and go blunt and your drill will overheat. Same with a chainsaw. Chain will overheat and go blunt and chainsaw gets hot. If you just get it right, let the tool do the work, you get much faster results.
So im from an electrical background. I know how to use drills and stuff. Get an apprentice and tell them dont go in too hard? They listen but think leaning on the thing will do the job faster as they are trying to impress, but no, they smoke the holesaw and the drill needs a 5 minute break to cool down. So thats an example of not letting the tool do its job.

I have not had much opportunity to influence and guide a young worker over the years. I do see a certain interest in teaching, because I think I'm good at it, but I also wonder how frustrating it would be.

I look back at how I was "taught" and know that I would approach things differently. For the most part, I was always thrown in the deep end and left to my own devices. In a way, I learnt quick, in another way I didn't get the hands-on tuition that I probably needed........I'm a visual learner. Whenever I have had the chance to guide someone new, I have always made sure to break things down for the person, explain how we do something, but crucially, why we are doing something. From my perspective, if a person knows why they are doing something, then perhaps they will better appreciate what they are doing and therefore do a better job.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

I reckon after using chainsaws for 50+ years I probably wouldn’t be able to pass the registered operator test.Never use the chain brake,only turn the egine off if not using for a fair time,like lunch or loading. As an aslde why use the chainbrake?

In a technical sense, the brake should be engaged when the saw is not being used, be that idling between cuts, starting, stopping and in transport. How much a particular operator follows that is ultimately up to connivence or common sense.

The key thing is not intentionally use throttle when the brake is engaged, damage to the sprocket, clutch and brake will not be cheaply repaired.

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I have not had much opportunity to influence and guide a young worker over the years. I do see a certain interest in teaching, because I think I'm good at it, but I also wonder how frustrating it would be.

I look back at how I was "taught" and know that I would approach things differently. For the most part, I was always thrown in the deep end and left to my own devices. In a way, I learnt quick, in another way I didn't get the hands-on tuition that I probably needed........I'm a visual learner. Whenever I have had the chance to guide someone new, I have always made sure to break things down for the person, explain how we do something, but crucially, why we are doing something. From my perspective, if a person knows why they are doing something, then perhaps they will better appreciate what they are doing and therefore do a better job.

From a learning standpoint as an apprentice there was 2 types of tradesman. 1st was the one who would think his offsider was like working with a broken arm. So you were forced to be observent. Second was the tradesman who was a teacher. Explain the why things get done, give an example then you know, keep an eye on you the first few trys to make sure you actually listened and learnt.
That worked well for me. You can look at something 1000 times and not be able to do it. Watch it once, be told the why to do it, and have someone behind you pointing you in the right direction when you try. You learn a lot quicker. The thing about teaching. So apprentices are there to learn. If you dont teach, they will be like working with a broken arm. Their job is to learn and make jobs get done faster. So if you teach them, they dont do your job, they just do theirs and the job gets done faster. Granted mistakes will made, but thats part of the learning process. You do not belittle an apprentice infront of a client, you have a conversation later in the car.
I like teaching. But only to those who absorb knowledge. Theres always the 1%ers who arent in it for the right reasons and cause problems.

[danzvtil]

I’ve come to love having and using my chainsaws, but safety always front of mind. If I’m asked to do anything off the ground or out of reach (easily) of the pole, I’ll refer it to a professional.
I’ve had to do some pruning at my mums place, and her lack of awareness is astounding, it’s the same for every cut “hey! You see the branch I’m cutting? You see where it’s gonna fall? You see where you are standing?? MOVE.OUT.THE.EFFING.WAY!!!!!!!! Repeat.

[DFB FGXR6]

Before I started for the day, I walked into my local Stihl dealer with a wad of cash ready to buy a new chainsaw!

I had two models shortlisted, the $ 899 MS 251 and the $999 MS 271. These two are within Stihl's "Landowner" range, offering bigger engines than the "Homeowner" range, but without the bulk and extreme power of the "Professional" line that is catered to industries who use these all day long.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...72/MS-251.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...72/MS-271.aspx

Stihl also sell a MS 251 C-BE for $999 with their Easy2Start system, but I decided to forgo that feature. I figured that if I'm going to spend $1000, I would rather spend that on a more powerful machine. For the extra $100 over the 45.6cc MS 251, the MS 271 comes with a larger 50.2cc engine and a longer bar. In the end, I chose the MS 271 for the additional power and bar size for a modest price premium. Once you go above the MS 271, you start to get into pretty big money, so the 271 is a happy sweet spot in the range.

This store is ALWAYS busy, with far more floor traffic and phone calls than they small team can deal with. I know how that feels! So I try to know what I want and just get to the point so I'm not wasting their time or mine.

I told the guy I wanted a saw and the two I was looking at, he handed me the MS 271 and I said "I'll take it" in less than 15 seconds. He remarked that I was so easy to deal with, my response was I always researched what I'm looking at so I kind of already know what I want when I walk in the store.

I also wanted the carry case and the 2-in1 chain sharpening tool along with the saw. I never ask for discount, I think it's rude to be honest. But they know I'm a contractor so they seem to always give me a good deal. This saw was no different. The MS 271 retails for $999 and the case $100, so I came prepared to spend $1100. All up, I got the saw, sharpener and case for $1050 with a free chain included, which works out to be about $147 discount and $50 under budget.

We both won here, he got an easy sale, and I got a new toy...........















Stihl saws have had these features for a while now, but a single action choke/run/stop lever and the tool-less fuel/oil caps add to ease of use.





The 2in1 File is for quickly sharpening the teeth and depth gauge in a single step.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...le-Holder.aspx







The case is supplied with a replacement bar cover to allow it to slot into the body of the case.



The case is also large enough to hold the supplied multitool and sharpener.





When the salesman took the machine out back for it's pre-use startup, I couldn't help but smile at the sound she made, a super healthy scream.

For this point onwards, I'm going to call her Aretha, as in Aretha Franklin whose voice seemed to have the ability to out scream all the others.

Once I got her home, I can safely say I'm going to love using this saw. It has a little hesitancy on initial throttle application that I'm told will settle once the saw breaks in. But boy, can she rev! She has this lovely throaty growl when given full throttle that builds to a frankly hard-on inducing scream. Sorry, but I can't be the only nutjob who gets off on the sound of an angry chainsaw!

NOW! I have this unnatural urge to go and chop something down! Anything!

With thanks to Rallye Sport for the advice!

[FTE217]

I love the long extension bar !
Had similar long ago earlier model.
Yer your gonna Luv it but not the greenies!! Lol
In my street in have a few of them I can sense they hate hearing me firing mine up bugga them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DFB FGXR6]

I mentioned previously my now departed neighbor I had growing up. He was like me in a couple of ways, never doing things by halves when it came to gadgets and tools.

He had a wood fired heater for the winter months, and that meant he needed a chainsaw. I remember my Dad and I tagging along to help him collect firewood for his and our garage potbelly stove. We supplied the big Mazda T3500 and labor, meaning he could collect more than the little box trailer he normally used. He supplied the chainsaw. We then split the load, he taking 2/3 and us 1/3.

I always wanted a chainsaw like he had. To a 12-year-old boy, it looked and sounded so big and powerful. This is that saw, a Stihl 028AV Super -







From what I can gather, this model was made from 1979 to 1990 and in Super guise, used a 51.5cc engine with 3.2hp. The "AV" designation refers to Anti-Vibration, a feature most saws have as standard these days. It also has a full magnesium case, rather than the plastic used for most modern saws.

As you can see, she is in need of some attention. While it may look dirty and unloved, he looked after that saw very well so I have no doubt it would still be a very good machine. It's likely not been used in ten years or more and now hangs unneeded on a hook.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

I love the long extension bar !
Had similar long ago earlier model.
Yer your gonna Luv it but not the greenies!! Lol
In my street in have a few of them I can sense they hate hearing me firing mine up bugga them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bugger the greenies! I do my bit, selling and planting plenty of trees to offset the "destruction" my chainsaw will do to the environment. And if a greenie objects, then I suggest they start walking everywhere and go live in a cave without all those things like electricity, phones, computers..................

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Before I started for the day, I walked into my local Stihl dealer with a wad of cash ready to buy a new chainsaw!

I had two models shortlisted, the $ 899 MS 251 and the $999 MS 271. These two are within Stihl's "Landowner" range, offering bigger engines than the "Homeowner" range, but without the bulk and extreme power of the "Professional" line that is catered to industries who use these all day long.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...72/MS-251.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...72/MS-271.aspx

Stihl also sell a MS 251 C-BE for $999 with their Easy2Start system, but I decided to forgo that feature. I figured that if I'm going to spend $1000, I would rather spend that on a more powerful machine. For the extra $100 over the 45.6cc MS 251, the MS 271 comes with a larger 50.2cc engine and a longer bar. In the end, I chose the MS 271 for the additional power and bar size for a modest price premium. Once you go above the MS 271, you start to get into pretty big money, so the 271 is a happy sweet spot in the range.

This store is ALWAYS busy, with far more floor traffic and phone calls than they small team can deal with. I know how that feels! So I try to know what I want and just get to the point so I'm not wasting their time or mine.

I told the guy I wanted a saw and the two I was looking at, he handed me the MS 271 and I said "I'll take it" in less than 15 seconds. He remarked that I was so easy to deal with, my response was I always researched what I'm looking at so I kind of already know what I want when I walk in the store.

I also wanted the carry case and the 2-in1 chain sharpening tool along with the saw. I never ask for discount, I think it's rude to be honest. But they know I'm a contractor so they seem to always give me a good deal. This saw was no different. The MS 271 retails for $999 and the case $100, so I came prepared to spend $1100. All up, I got the saw, sharpener and case for $1050 with a free chain included, which works out to be about $147 discount and $50 under budget.

We both won here, he got an easy sale, and I got a new toy...........

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

Stihl saws have had these features for a while now, but a single action choke/run/stop lever and the tool-less fuel/oil caps add to ease of use.

image

image

The 2in1 File is for quickly sharpening the teeth and depth gauge in a single step.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...le-Holder.aspx

image

image

image

The case is supplied with a replacement bar cover to allow it to slot into the body of the case.

image

The case is also large enough to hold the supplied multitool and sharpener.

image

image

When the salesman took the machine out back for it's pre-use startup, I couldn't help but smile at the sound she made, a super healthy scream.

For this point onwards, I'm going to call her Aretha, as in Aretha Franklin whose voice seemed to have the ability to out scream all the others.

Once I got her home, I can safely say I'm going to love using this saw. It has a little hesitancy on initial throttle application that I'm told will settle once the saw breaks in. But boy, can she rev! She has this lovely throaty growl when given full throttle that builds to a frankly hard-on inducing scream. Sorry, but I can't be the only nutjob who gets off on the sound of an angry chainsaw!

NOW! I have this unnatural urge to go and chop something down! Anything!

With thanks to Rallye Sport for the advice!

So looks like a mad unit. Judging by the choke, cold start is it prime, full choke till it kicks, half choke and it starts then pull the trigger, chokes off and good to go?
So just an out of interest question, being a larger small 2 stroke, whats the fuel mix? My 37cc chainsaw is 1:50, same as my old 30cc and 25cc whippersnippers. My current 51.7cc whippersnipper is 1:40 mix.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

So looks like a mad unit. Judging by the choke, cold start is it prime, full choke till it kicks, half choke and it starts then pull the trigger, chokes off and good to go?
So just an out of interest question, being a larger small 2 stroke, whats the fuel mix? My 37cc chainsaw is 1:50, same as my old 30cc and 25cc whippersnippers. My current 51.7cc whippersnipper is 1:40 mix.

This saw doesn't have a primer bulb. It seems that only the Easy2Start models come with a primer.

Starting procedure is thus -

-Squeeze the throttle and push the lever down to full choke, this holds the throttle open to a set amount.

-Pull the cord until the saw coughs. (1 or two pulls usually)

-Move the lever up to partial choke.

-Pull the cord until the engine starts (2 or 3 pulls), then blip the throttle to bring the engine down to idle, which also cancels out the choke.

-Ready to go.

For the fuel mix, Stihl recommends 1:50 in all of their machines. I have been using Stihl HP Ultra synthetic oil for a long time now. This is a low smoke, clean burning oil that I have appreciated for it's low to no carbon depositing in the muffler and exhaust ports. Can't recommend it highly enough.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...ngine-Oil.aspx



I use that HP Ultra 1:50 fuel mix in all of my small 2-Strokes machines.

For the big 160cc Victa 2-Strokes, I use the recommended 1:25 ratio and the Victa branded oil (mineral).

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40377998...SABEgIxRvD_BwE

[BA-XT]

Completely of topic Magnolia question.

I'll apologise if this isn't the right place, but it seemed to be.

Teddy Bear magnolias. I have 6 magnolia trees I put in late last year doing great. All getting full sun, fertiliser, mulch. Love it. Full sun.

I'm in Melbourne.

I want to plant another one, but the position receives nearly full sun from later October to late April, then mostly shady from May -october.

What's the chances of the plant thriving or am I better with a decidous plant like another snowball or small tree?

Same problem out the front. Morning to afternoon sun in summer. Near full shade in winter. I have a few camellias doing well there, but a gun the stops the harsh sun.

I'm open to ideas!

[.:4:.]

No primer bulb, thats inovation towards 2 strokes being dinosaur burners. My 37cc, 6 primes, usually 2 or 3 pulls full choke and it kicks. Half choke 1 pull, it starts, then pull the trigger chokes off and its good to go.
The 51.7cc snipper with its 1:40 ratio. It takes 10 pushes on the primer. It only has half choke. That thing sucks as the cord is really stiff, but, 1st time every time. That thing by brand and price should both hate itself, attempt suicide, failed at that and died from some act of god. But it hasnt.
Yeah i know majority of larger 2 strokes as in mowers from my experience are 1:25.
Dunno the mix on my old boat. It was a 3 cylinder evinrude 2 stroke. 60 horse carby thing. It was oil injected, so petrol went in the fuel tank, 2 stroke oil went in the oil tank, and it discombobulated the 2 to make it go.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by BA-XT

Completely of topic Magnolia question.

I'll apologise if this isn't the right place, but it seemed to be.

Teddy Bear magnolias. I have 6 magnolia trees I put in late last year doing great. All getting full sun, fertiliser, mulch. Love it. Full sun.

I'm in Melbourne.

I want to plant another one, but the position receives nearly full sun from later October to late April, then mostly shady from May -october.

What's the chances of the plant thriving or am I better with a decidous plant like another snowball or small tree?

Same problem out the front. Morning to afternoon sun in summer. Near full shade in winter. I have a few camellias doing well there, but a gun the stops the harsh sun.

I'm open to ideas!

Magnolia Grandiflora varieties, in your case Teddy Bear, are pretty adaptable to most conditions. Considering they will not be actively growing during the colder months, being in shade at that time of the year will not be an issue. Once the weather warms up and the sun begins to shine in that area, the plant will make use of that and grow accordingly.

Another one to look at, although more of a large shrub rather than a small tree, would be Magnolia "White Caviar". I'm also a Camellia fan, so perhaps also look into Camellia Setsugekka, Camellia Plantation Pink or Camellia Hiryu.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

No primer bulb, thats inovation towards 2 strokes being dinosaur burners. My 37cc, 6 primes, usually 2 or 3 pulls full choke and it kicks. Half choke 1 pull, it starts, then pull the trigger chokes off and its good to go.
The 51.7cc snipper with its 1:40 ratio. It takes 10 pushes on the primer. It only has half choke. That thing sucks as the cord is really stiff, but, 1st time every time. That thing by brand and price should both hate itself, attempt suicide, failed at that and died from some act of god. But it hasnt.
Yeah i know majority of larger 2 strokes as in mowers from my experience are 1:25.
Dunno the mix on my old boat. It was a 3 cylinder evinrude 2 stroke. 60 horse carby thing. It was oil injected, so petrol went in the fuel tank, 2 stroke oil went in the oil tank, and it discombobulated the 2 to make it go.

Only Stihl saws with Easy2Start get the primer bulb.

From what I can gather, the Easy2Start system will only spin the engine over at a set rate. So, no matter how hard you pull the cord, the spring system will only spin the engine at a certain speed. Adding a manual primer must mitigate against this.

Saws without Easy2Start are able to be turned over faster and don't need the additional help from a primer.

[Rallye Sport]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Before I started for the day, I walked into my local Stihl dealer with a wad of cash ready to buy a new chainsaw!

I had two models shortlisted, the $ 899 MS 251 and the $999 MS 271. These two are within Stihl's "Landowner" range, offering bigger engines than the "Homeowner" range, but without the bulk and extreme power of the "Professional" line that is catered to industries who use these all day long.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...72/MS-251.aspx
https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...72/MS-271.aspx

Stihl also sell a MS 251 C-BE for $999 with their Easy2Start system, but I decided to forgo that feature. I figured that if I'm going to spend $1000, I would rather spend that on a more powerful machine. For the extra $100 over the 45.6cc MS 251, the MS 271 comes with a larger 50.2cc engine and a longer bar. In the end, I chose the MS 271 for the additional power and bar size for a modest price premium. Once you go above the MS 271, you start to get into pretty big money, so the 271 is a happy sweet spot in the range.

This store is ALWAYS busy, with far more floor traffic and phone calls than they small team can deal with. I know how that feels! So I try to know what I want and just get to the point so I'm not wasting their time or mine.

I told the guy I wanted a saw and the two I was looking at, he handed me the MS 271 and I said "I'll take it" in less than 15 seconds. He remarked that I was so easy to deal with, my response was I always researched what I'm looking at so I kind of already know what I want when I walk in the store.

I also wanted the carry case and the 2-in1 chain sharpening tool along with the saw. I never ask for discount, I think it's rude to be honest. But they know I'm a contractor so they seem to always give me a good deal. This saw was no different. The MS 271 retails for $999 and the case $100, so I came prepared to spend $1100. All up, I got the saw, sharpener and case for $1050 with a free chain included, which works out to be about $147 discount and $50 under budget.

We both won here, he got an easy sale, and I got a new toy...........

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

Stihl saws have had these features for a while now, but a single action choke/run/stop lever and the tool-less fuel/oil caps add to ease of use.

image

image

The 2in1 File is for quickly sharpening the teeth and depth gauge in a single step.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...le-Holder.aspx

image

image

image

The case is supplied with a replacement bar cover to allow it to slot into the body of the case.

image

The case is also large enough to hold the supplied multitool and sharpener.

image

image

When the salesman took the machine out back for it's pre-use startup, I couldn't help but smile at the sound she made, a super healthy scream.

For this point onwards, I'm going to call her Aretha, as in Aretha Franklin whose voice seemed to have the ability to out scream all the others.

Once I got her home, I can safely say I'm going to love using this saw. It has a little hesitancy on initial throttle application that I'm told will settle once the saw breaks in. But boy, can she rev! She has this lovely throaty growl when given full throttle that builds to a frankly hard-on inducing scream. Sorry, but I can't be the only nutjob who gets off on the sound of an angry chainsaw!

NOW! I have this unnatural urge to go and chop something down! Anything!

With thanks to Rallye Sport for the advice!

Very nice, you've done well with that one
Loved the link you posted with the fella slabbing that large piece of pine. Really shows what the saw will do.
And you're not the only nutjob that likes the sound of a saw, flat out!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Rallye Sport

Very nice, you've done well with that one
Loved the link you posted with the fella slabbing that large piece of pine. Really shows what the saw will do.
And you're not the only nutjob that likes the sound of a saw, flat out!

I also liked the look of the MS 261 C-M which is the entry level Pro saw.

https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...S-261-C-M.aspx

Basically, the same 50.2cc engine as the MS 271 but with more power and a magnesium case, bringing the weight back down to 4.9 kg over the 5.6 kg of the 271. Also has a decompression valve and captive bar nuts.

As mentioned though, once you go above the MS 271 in either the Landowner or Professional lines, the prices rise steeply.

[BA-XT]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Magnolia Grandiflora varieties, in your case Teddy Bear, are pretty adaptable to most conditions. Considering they will not be actively growing during the colder months, being in shade at that time of the year will not be an issue. Once the weather warms up and the sun begins to shine in that area, the plant will make use of that and grow accordingly.

Another one to look at, although more of a large shrub rather than a small tree, would be Magnolia "White Caviar". I'm also a Camellia fan, so perhaps also look into Camellia Setsugekka, Camellia Plantation Pink or Camellia Hiryu.

Thanks so much! Yes I'm the same. I love camellias as well. Infact I have Hiryu already planted, along with Pinktastic. Sasanqua Camellias do alright in the sun. Camellia Herzliya de Frietas Magalhaes as well.

I also have a couple of the White Caviar ascwell. Full sun loving life lol.

My mum has rediculous large camellias. All just stuck in clay soil and left alone lol

This is over of them I took when it was flowering. She gave up cutting it lol.

Sorry.... I should probably start my own thread!

Hijacking finished

[DFB FGXR6]

I mean, you sort of expected this..............

[Tonz]

what happens when, in 2 years time you trade this model in and its in better condition than a brand new letter model, runs smoother, looks cleaner, teeth are sharper.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tonz

what happens when, in 2 years time you trade this model in and its in better condition than a brand new letter model, runs smoother, looks cleaner, teeth are sharper.

Are you suggesting I should bust out the polishers and do a paint correction as well?

[DFB FGXR6]

Researching chainsaws over the last couple of weeks, I spotted guys using a no-spill fuel containers for refueling. A few minutes on Amazon and I found what I was looking for -

https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product...age&th=1&psc=1

Why on earth did I not find something like this years ago!



The concept here is that the fuel is released from the spout by a spring action button.



Simply put the spout in the tank opening and GENTLY push the button to fill the tank. I say gently because pushing the button with full force this morning, the first time using it, fuel ended up spurting uncontrolled all over my machine and clean ute tray.





I'm now ordering a larger 10lt version for my 4-stoke mowers.

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Researching chainsaws over the last couple of weeks, I spotted guys using a no-spill fuel containers for refueling. A few minutes on Amazon and I found what I was looking for -

https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product...age&th=1&psc=1

Why on earth did I not find something like this years ago!

image

The concept here is that the fuel is released from the spout by a spring action button.

image

Simply put the spout in the tank opening and GENTLY push the button to fill the tank. I say gently because pushing the button with full force this morning, the first time using it, fuel ended up spurting uncontrolled all over my machine and clean ute tray.

image

image

I'm now ordering a larger 10lt version for my 4-stoke mowers.

I knew they existed. But they take the challenge away. I mean, a metal can with the useless pull out spout is the same as a dead pour out of a red plastic unit. Funnels, you need 2 hands and still end up somehow spilling just as much.
So they look amazing.
I was a bit mind blown last time i did an oil change on my car and the 5L things of nulon oil came with a flexi spout to put on the bottle. Saved using a funnel.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

I knew they existed. But they take the challenge away. I mean, a metal can with the useless pull out spout is the same as a dead pour out of a red plastic unit. Funnels, you need 2 hands and still end up somehow spilling just as much.
So they look amazing.
I was a bit mind blown last time i did an oil change on my car and the 5L things of nulon oil came with a flexi spout to put on the bottle. Saved using a funnel.

Penrite are including something similar on their bottles too -



As for those fuel tins with the plastic lift-out spouts, I had a fairly new one of those over pressurized, burst and them emptied the better part of 5 liters of fuel into the tray of my ute. I dumped them all after that.