Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by ford12

When using this coating what microfiber do you use to buff off, considering they are throw away once used.
It says on the instructions do a 50 cm x 50 cm section at a time, after each section is done do you swap to a new cloth ?
And 1 more question do they give you enough applicators and how often do you change to a new one ?

Thanks in advance

Towel choice for ceramic coatings is carefully balanced choice. You want them to high enough in quality to not screw up your polishing and prep work. At the same time, you don't want to be spending too much on a towel you will effectively throw away at the end. You also need to stick to lower pile towels, these work best with ceramic coatings.

I have used Edgeless 245 and currently use Edgeless 300 -

https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...towel-25-pack/
https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...towel-10-pack/
https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...towel-24-pack/

How many towels you use or need will depend on a few different things. Typically, you will be working with two towels at a time, one for the initial wipe to level the coating, the second towel used to remove any remaining residue. You will then swap out your towels every few panels, that will change depending on the weather conditions (humidity/temperature) as the towels become loaded up.

Some will wash the towels in APC straight away and use them again, but I just put them into the rag pile. At a couple of bucks each, that isn't too much of a problem.

The applicators will be swapped out depending on temparatures. You can kinda tell when to do this as they start to get a bit grabby.

[DFB FGXR6]

Fordomatic, do you mind if I steal your idea regarding the towels at the base of the windscreen?



Brilliant idea!

That's one of my pet hates of polishing, the dust that accumulates in that area.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

How often you do a wheels off detail will depend on the usage pattern of the car. In my case, I have never done one, but then I don't drive the "special" cars in the rain or on wet roads.

Having said that, when I changed out my wheels last year, in theory I did end up doing the process. I went wheel by wheel with a trolly jack, taking the time to clean and coat the front calipers.

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Then I went through and decontaminated my old wheels, polished and then wiped them down with Bead Maker for storage.

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Have a look at the beginning of this video from Chromatic, this would be the extreme end of the wheels off detail. I love his content by the way, superbly produced and very soothing to watch -



As for ceramic coating wheels, I would definitely recommend doing this step, especially before the wheels get too weathered as that will make the process much easier. While coatings are not essential for the paint, wheels are always dirtier and subjected to heat and brake dust that a ceramic coating helps deal with. With the dusty Brembo's, coating the wheels is a worthwhile step.

What coating did you use on yours DFB? Carpro DLUX ?

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Fordomatic, do you mind if I steal your idea regarding the towels at the base of the windscreen?

image

Brilliant idea!

That's one of my pet hates of polishing, the dust that accumulates in that area.

Totally mate, go for it. See how I’ve masked up as well? I do extra so it covers up onto the glass, that way you get no polish dust in the window wells. You can just wipe the tape clean where the dust has accumulated and then take the tape off.

[GasoLane]

AUSLANDAU used to be a long time member here, unfortunately running a business and having a life got in the way.

But if Dave was still here I think his car would be worth an Honourable mention

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Totally mate, go for it. See how I’ve masked up as well? I do extra so it covers up onto the glass, that way you get no polish dust in the window wells. You can just wipe the tape clean where the dust has accumulated and then take the tape off.

I get impatient with taping, even though I know more time spent at that step saves time further down the track.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

What coating did you use on yours DFB? Carpro DLUX ?

I used NV Wheel on the Mustang, would probably go with DLUX next time though.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-wheel-coating
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...x&_ss=e&_v=1.0

[ford12]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Hey mate, I do more than 50cm x 50cm, i guess that comes with confidence applying it. I broke the roof into 4 sections and the bonnet into 4 sections, all other panels into two sections.

I think they give 5 applicators. I use the same one for the whole car, just check its still clean, if it remains damp and hasn't gone hard then its fine.

I've now done my sportsman and the G6E and still have half a bottle left, you dont need to use heaps. Once you begin using it you'll know quickly if you are using too much as it'll be hard to get off when levelling.

I now use these https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...towel-24-pack/ they are great. I use two at a time, one for leveling and one to buff of residue. I used 10 of them on the G6. biggest thing you need to make sure that you get all the residue off before it hardens. This is very important, use an inspection light on each panel as you go to make sure.

Prep is everything for a ceramic coating, ensure it's corrected and isoprol wipe down before applying.

Hey mate thanks for the advice.
Can you explain a little more what to look for when making sure all the residue has been removed.
Thanks again

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by ford12

Hey mate thanks for the advice.
Can you explain a little more what to look for when making sure all the residue has been removed.
Thanks again

Easy done mate. You'll notice that it's like polish that isn't removed properly, hazing and dull.

[DFB FGXR6]

I notice Waxit have launched a "Refurbished Products" page to their website -

"This Collection will be updated with refurbished items at a discounted price that can't be sold as "Brand New".
This can include items without packaging, visual wear, used, etc.
All items sold as Refurbished will be in a working condition, and will not be sold if it doesn't work as originally intended.
Refurbished items will not come with a warranty from Waxit, unless specified otherwise.
Once stock is sold out, there is no guarantee that the particular item will come back into stock, as it has been placed here by unfortunate circumstance in the first place and is not a regular occurrence. This collection might even be empty for extended periods of time. Please do not hold out for a particular refurbished item to come back, as it may never actually come back into stock."


https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ished-products

Reading the descriptions on a few of the polishers, these products seem to be more about damaged packaging or new machines with manufacturing faults that have been rectified. Either way, they are decently discounted and could be a great way to get into some high-quality machines.

[jgmdat]

Got to try out the Big Boi Blower today, so good with the heated air.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by jgmdat

Got to try out the Big Boi Blower today, so good with the heated air.

Excellent, especially on a cold wintery day.

[DFB FGXR6]

The Master at work again, this time on a VF II Commodore Ute -

[DFB FGXR6]

I have been using the Detail Factory Tire Scrub Brush for a number of months now, to the point where I have added a second one to my fleet.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...9fda2d4b&_ss=r

For the most part, tyre scrub brushes have hard, stiff bristles. The Detail Factory one is a bit different in that the bristles and longer and softer than usual. That provides a "just right" combination for effective tyre cleaning.









Up until now, I have used a short handle Vikan wheel brush for cleaning rubber mats.





That brush is just too soft for effective and thorough cleaning of rubber mats. While it agitated the chemical well, it didn't have enough bite to remove the stubborn grime.

This is where the second Detail Factory brush comes in. That bristle combination which works so well on tyres is at home on rubber cargo and floor mats too. Now, in theory I could use the same brush for both of these tasks, however I don't like the idea of introducing greasiness from tyres to my interior.

My choice of chemical here is McKee's Floor Mat & Cargo Liner Rejuvenator, I have found this to be the best for this task. I have also used a useless Chemical Guys version as well as APC and Shine Supply Wise Guy.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/colle...uvenator-650ml



Rinse the mat first, then apply the product and agitate with the brush.



Rinse the residue and allow the mat to dry, speeding the drying process with your blower if needed.

From here, dress them with an appropriate product or simply reinstall. Choice of dressing for this role is important so as to not introduce any slipperiness. In the past I have used heavily diluted Carpro Perl for this role, although Koch Chemie GUF is what I'm currently using as it was specifically designed for this role and is non-slippery.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...e84b3519&_ss=r





GUF is best sprayed on liberally and then leveled down with a towel.

Clean again...............for now.

[fiestaz]

Speaking of brushes. Bought this kit last week. $27.

Used the round brush on the drill for wheel arches, worked well. One of the flat brushes for help with carpet cleaning to assist the vacuum. Results were good.

[fordomatic]

New waxit BOGO deals are out, I just picked up the below.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ow-4l-bigfella

Bowdens Snow Job is absolutely useless at any cleaning ability, I am rather annoyed because i bought 4 litres of it. I now have 3 litres left that i'll probably pour down the drain.
Bowdens are dead to me, won't be buying any of their products again unless I need something immediately instead of waiting for delivery. Tried a few of their products now, need to stop wasting my money on it.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

New waxit BOGO deals are out, I just picked up the below.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ow-4l-bigfella

Bowdens Snow Job is absolutely useless at any cleaning ability, I am rather annoyed because i bought 4 litres of it. I now have 3 litres left that i'll probably pour down the drain.
Bowdens are dead to me, won't be buying any of their products again unless I need something immediately instead of waiting for delivery. Tried a few of their products now, need to stop wasting my money on it.

I have been using up soaps that don't meet expectations to clean my wheely bins, latest being P&S Pearl. I just put a generous slog into the bin, spray with the hose and empty.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I have been using up soaps that don't meet expectations to clean my wheely bins, latest being P&S Pearl. I just put a generous slog into the bin, spray with the hose and empty.

How about a pram

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

How about a pram

image

I bet that got the neighbors talking!

Question is, did it actually clean the pram?





That was Koch Chemie GSF above, far too expensive to be doing that sort of thing with.

[prydey]

+1 on the snow job. I also bought a 4L and still have about 3L left. I just gradually use it up in my wheel wash bucket.

I have boss gloss and wet dreams, but the boss basically just gets used as a drying aid. The wet dreams I was happy with how easy it is to just spray on and hose off, but have now costed my car with NV lustre and jet. They gave a much better result, even if a lot more time consuming to apply.

I have the same attitude toward bowdens. If I need something in a hurry, then they'll get a look in.

That's not to say they are bad products, especially for the average joe. It's just there are better products out there. I still use the little chubby wheel brush, which is good and recently bought a window cleaning mitt, which I'm also pleased with.

All my car cleaning stuff now is either carpro or NV. Super value for what they are in my opinion.

[DFB FGXR6]

New Product Alert - P&S Absolute





This is new rinse-less wash solution, a first from P&S. Like other rinse-less products, this can be used across most, if not all, vehicle surfaces. Area's of use include -

-Exterior Surfaces (paint, wheels, glass ect)
-Interiors (plastics, glass and leather)
-Clay Lubricant
-Quick Detailer
-Can be used within a steamer
-Can reduce water "hardness"

At the moment, Absolute is available from the following suppliers -

https://carcareco.com.au/product/ps-...inseless-wash/
https://autobuff.com.au/products/p-s...e&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...19f8f8b2&_ss=r

And yes, I have ordered a bottle.

I don't do a lot of rinse-less or waterless washing, but I have been using these products more and more lately, ONR in particular. For mild interior cleaning (dusting), I really like using ONR for this role by spraying a towel generous with product until damp and then wiping over the surfaces. This leaves a clean, matte finish.



Along with door jambs, I also use ONR for wiping down benches, kitchen included.

[DFB FGXR6]

Clay Media – Clay Bars, Clay Towels, Clay Mitts, Clay Blocks & Clay Pads.

I remember the first time I used a clay bar on a car, a process that seemed so counterintuitive at the time. The thought of using a something to rub against the paint that we spend so much time protecting just felt all wrong. At the time, there were limited options available for claying, a yellow clay bar from Mothers was my introduction to the process, and I suspect many others would be in a similar boat.



These days, the term “Claying” refers to a variety of different products that aim to do the same thing; lightly abrade the paint surface, in the process removing bonded contaminants. Removing these contaminants improves slickness as well as improving the clarity and gloss potential of your paint.

For the most part, clay media come in a variety of forms and aggressiveness. Some can be incredibly harsh, others milder and safer to use in less experienced hands. Which you choose will depend on the level of contamination that needs to be removed.

This post will break down the main types of clay media and when/where they are best suited.

Clay Bar – this is what has traditionally been recognized as “claying”. These are natural or synthetic engineered resin compounds that sit in the palm of your hand and used in side to side movements across the paint. Once finishing a section, the bar is then kneaded to a clean surface. Clay bars have evolved to offer a variety of grades, from fine to coarse depending on what needs to be removed. Clay bars are also the most effective way of removing contamination, the tradeoff being a higher likelihood of introducing scratches and micro marring. Another drawback would be the need to throw the clay in the bin if dropped on the ground, and they can be slower and more cumbersome to use.





Clay Towels & Mitts – these are the next progression in clay media, consisting of a microfiber backing and synthetic clay bonded to one side. The action is the same, the towel or mitt working across the paint in a controlled back and forth movement. In general, these items are more ergonomic to use and considered safer on the paint. They can also be washed and reused if dropped on the ground. The drawback being they are less aggressive and therefore less effective on heavy contamination.







Clay Block – these can be similar in shape as a traditional clay bar but offer the same benefits of a clay towel. Clay blocks are made up of a foam sponge with a rubber like clay surface bonded to the bottom. They are easy to use and safe for most surfaces.







Clay Pad – while these can be used by hand, they were designed to be used on dual action polishers. In such case, you will speed up your claying process. You will however inflict more marring prior to polishing.





Clay Lubricants – this is an interesting subject as there are many ways to add lubrication for this process. Most of the major detailing brands sell specific clay lubricants which are said to offer superior lubrication when compared to other options. Those options include the use of quick detailers, rinse less washes and iron removers. There are also combination iron remover/clay lubricant products like NV Purify which combine the mechanical (clay) and chemical (iron remover) decontamination steps. You can also simply use soapy water. Myself, I prefer to use either Meguiar’s M34 or NV Purify.

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-...3416/p/CC00828
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv...f&_ss=e&_v=1.0



Breaking In – this is only applicable to the newer style clay mitts/towels/blocks/pads. For the first use, it’s important to break these in on the glass prior to using them on the paint. This helps remove the manufacturing film from the product and prepares them for use on paint.



Storage – All clay media should be stored in an airtight container or zip lock bag. This helps preserve the media and prevent dust and dirt from accumulating on them. Also, it’s good practice to wash the media under running water prior to storage.

Tips and Cautions –

-The best way to tell if claying is required is to run the back of your hand across the paint, if required you will feel and hear the roughness.
-Never use a tar remover with these items, they will dissolve the clay.
-You can never use too much lubricant, the more the better.
-Discard a dropped clay bar, you significantly increase the risk of scratching your paint if you don't.
-Be smooth and controlled with your movements, don’t apply heavy pressure.



The key thing to take on board about claying is to only do so when required. I often read about people claying their car in a very casual manner, as in it’s something that can or should be done often. Keep in mind, no matter the aggressiveness of the product, you are abrading the surface of the paint. A well-maintained car may only need claying ever 3 to 4 years. If you park outdoors, work in an industrial area or by a train station, then claying may be needed more often, perhaps once a year. As a very basic recommendation, claying should only be done if you intend on polishing afterwards. Now that can vary depending on contamination present or the product you choose to use.

Happy Claying!

[CyberWasp]

I have a question that I don't think has been covered in this thread.

What is the process for deep cleaning seat belts?
The drivers belt in the XR6T has to be helped back by hand.
I suspect it is because of all the dirt and grime that accumulates on the belt over time.

I have seen a few methods such as putting pegs on the belt so it can't retract and soaking it in a solution for a period of time.

Has anyone got a successful way of fixing this?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I have a question that I don't think has been covered in this thread.

What is the process for deep cleaning seat belts?
The drivers belt in the XR6T has to be helped back by hand.
I suspect it is because of all the dirt and grime that accumulates on the belt over time.

I have seen a few methods such as putting pegs on the belt so it can't retract and soaking it in a solution for a period of time.

Has anyone got a successful way of fixing this?

I remember reading a thread on that topic elsewhere on the forum but can't remember who it was.

Probably the best thing on belts would be a steam cleaner and some APC.

Myself, I would fully retract the belt, spray it with some APC or Pol Star, agitate with my fabric cleaning brush and following up with a clean damp towel.

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I have a question that I don't think has been covered in this thread.

What is the process for deep cleaning seat belts?
The drivers belt in the XR6T has to be helped back by hand.
I suspect it is because of all the dirt and grime that accumulates on the belt over time.

I have seen a few methods such as putting pegs on the belt so it can't retract and soaking it in a solution for a period of time.

Has anyone got a successful way of fixing this?

Extend the belt and yes, use pegs to hold it out.

Then soap and water and let it dry in the sun. I wouldn't use any chemical on mine in case it reacts on the belt where you don't see it.

Then it's the same a having a leather steering wheel, wash your hands before driving.

[fordomatic]

20% off ceramic coatings at Waxit.

Thought i'd add. I bought 50ml of Nova evo and have done two large cars with it and still have 20ml left.

[FTE217]

yes DFB who would have thought I'm going to rub plastaseen on my cars paintwork way back then LOL.......
It scared the you know what out of me originally, I thought you got to be kidding me
Once you got over the stress amazing how good it turns out, I was amazed how smooth the paintwork ended up as and the amount of grit on the claybar.
One of the best developments in car detailing imo back then.

[Top_Ghia]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I have a question that I don't think has been covered in this thread.

What is the process for deep cleaning seat belts?
The drivers belt in the XR6T has to be helped back by hand.
I suspect it is because of all the dirt and grime that accumulates on the belt over time.

I have seen a few methods such as putting pegs on the belt so it can't retract and soaking it in a solution for a period of time.

Has anyone got a successful way of fixing this?

You need to clean the bracket the seat belt runs through in the b pillar. The bit above your shoulder. The inside of that build up with gunk and there’s not much clearance for the belt, so it stops the belt retracting.
Combine that with cleaning the belt and Roberts’s you mothers brother.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

You need to clean the bracket the seat belt runs through in the b pillar. The bit above your shoulder. The inside of that build up with gunk and there’s not much clearance for the belt, so it stops the belt retracting.
Combine that with cleaning the belt and Roberts’s you mothers brother.

Just to add a bit more to this post as well as previous posts on the subject, I had a seat belt that wouldn't retract in my bf rtv. Following a guide, with photos, on this site from phildo, I removed the bottom bracket holding the belt, clamped the belt in the retracted position with locking pliers, pulled all of the remaining belt out of the vehicle and then soaked the belt in bosistos eucalyptus all purpose cleaner and water solution. Then, using the all purpose cleaner undiluted, use a toothbrush to clean the slot in the guide, because as T_G says, the slot gums up too.

Allow everything to dry and reinstall. Prior to the clean, my car would not have passed the roadworthy, but after the clean, it wasn't even looked at a second time.

Hope that helps.

Edit: here is the link to phildo's excellent photo essay https://www.fordforums.com.au/showth...ight=Seat+belt

[fordomatic]

Ive always just use hot soapy water and then cleaned the mechanisms of all the fat from body oils etc with APC.